Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

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Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » December 12th 2011, 1:19am

Hey all,

Looks like my project is under way. My van is already lifted 8" (4'' OLV lift kit with pipe lift and blocks). This week or next it will be getting 32" Dunlop Mud Rovers on 15x8 Cragar Soft 8's. In my shop waits a 1978(?) 4-bolt 350 with a mild cam, Vortec heads, stock pistons, MSD HEI with 8mm wires and E3 plugs, Quadrajet carb (750 cfm), and aluminum intake manifold, as well as a 1985 700R-4 waiting for a rebuild and a few simple mods: an upgraded sun gear shell, lock-up kit, and maybe a Corvette servo or a shift kit.

I will drive through the winter on the 32's with the stock engine. This winter's project will be the transmission, as well as finishing the assembly of the 350. I still need a harmonic damper. It will get a K&N air filter because I go mudding and need a washable filter. The long block will come off the 4.3 I have.

Also with the install it will get shorty headers x-piped to 2.5" duals.

I will be keeping the stock 3.42 G80 rear end, and not beat the heck out of it; I can't afford to do many burnouts on an $800 set of tires.

In the spring I will put everything in the van; I will also need to find a transfer case.

A couple of questions:

How many hp and torque do you all think I will be looking at?

Is there a final word on what is the best transfer case to swap in these vans? I want 2wd, 4hi, and 4lo. Either floor shift or electronic.

Also, any advice that would make this project go smoother would be appreciated. Thank you!
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby Jasen » December 12th 2011, 1:31am

Would need more specs as to guess at the HP and torque, although I'm not the one to figure it out. My last 350, 69 block, mild cam, big port heads, cast iron exhaust manifold's, Edelbrock performer RPM intake, 650 cfm carb, stock dist. with high out put HEI coil, 8mm Taylor wires, was pushing 325+ HP
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » December 12th 2011, 10:33pm

Thinking about accelerating this project and starting a whole lot sooner. Anyone got a harmonic balancer for sale?
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » December 16th 2011, 6:07pm

Got the balancer. Van goes in the shop tomorrow, most likely. Lifting the body off the subframe and pulling the motor, trans, and t case. I'll start pulling the accessories off and putting them on the 350. Any tips from those who have gone before me on pulling the subframe? Also, what is the best product to paint the subframe with to prevent rust?
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » December 16th 2011, 6:09pm

Great Craigslist find: got a pair of Hedman shorty headers, never installed, with the silver ceramic coating for $75. :banana-wrench:
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » December 18th 2011, 6:39am

Got the van almost ready to lift off the subframe. There is a lot of stuff to undo and pull off. Lifting the body off tomorrow.
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby Jasen » December 18th 2011, 6:46am

Nice, can't wait to see the progress pics.
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » December 19th 2011, 3:13pm

ImageImage

Pulled the subframe. Wow that is a lot of work. Taking accessories off the 4.3 and putting them on the 350 today.
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » December 27th 2011, 3:52pm

Got quite a bit done last week.

Pulled the van off the subframe
Image
Image

Modified the oil pan for axle clearance. Once I got it all together, I noticed that I did not have to take as much off as I did. I cut it down to 3 7/8" where it sits over the axle, and it clears by plenty. It does sit on one of the differential housing bolts, however, so I am probably going to take it all apart and modify the pan further. I'll post pics when I am done.
Image

I had the engine mounts for a 4x4 s-10 V8 swap, but I found out that the mounts on an AWD are different side to side. The driver's side mount is longer to clear the differential. I was able to use the s-10 mount on the passenger side, then used a combination on the driver's side. In the first pic, the s-10 mount is on the far left, then the other two are the different stock mounts.
Image
ImageImage
ImageImage
As you can see, I shimmed the engine off the mounts a little. I might have to go as far as 1/4-5/16 to make it work, I will figure this out today.

Painted the subframe with Pitt-Gard, a direct-to-rust product.
[img]https://www.astrosafari.com/gallery/main.php?
g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=31785[/img]


Got the engine set in the frame.
Image

Now I just have to set up the carb and figure out how everything hooks up to the manifold. The transmission is holding me up right now, turns out I need to find a 700R-4 and a transfer case still.

Here is an issue that I ran into. How much can headers be bent? Do I need to fab a really tight-angled collector?
Image
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » December 29th 2011, 6:08pm

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-21123/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-21105/

Should I use the ball-and-socket reducers or traditional gasket reducers? I will have one tight spot where the header dumps over the front driveshaft and I will need to make up a tight elbow; I only have about three inches to work with. Will the ball-and-socket reducer allow me some adjustment, where the traditional reducers would force me to install them perfectly straight on? What are the intended advantages of each style?
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby Phantom » December 29th 2011, 7:19pm

trapper20 wrote:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-21123/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-21105/

the ball-and-socket reducer allow me some adjustment, where the traditional reducers would force me to install them perfectly straight on??

You answer your own question the ball and socket provides a little bit of movement for tight installations

try to make you bends as gradual as possible ,,, tight bends will impede the flow of exhaust ,,if it gets too tight it can cause excessive back pressure and you'll lose some of the advantage you hope to gain from the headers ,,
Hard to tell from the pic where your 3 inches are but if it can be 3 inches horizontally from the driveshaft you'll likely be ok , if possible let the collector and pipe go straight down then after you get clearance put a 45 degree curved pipe and add a pipe adapter to the end , then slide straight pipe that goes to the rear; over it and weld it

if you mean the end of collector is straight above the driveshaft and only 3 inches straight down to the driveshaft , that is going to be very very tight , is it possible to move the engine backward to gain more clearance?
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » January 12th 2012, 10:42pm

Got a lot done, will post pics later. For now, my problem is fuel supply. Engine fires right up with carb cleaner in the carb, but I can't get the inline pump to prime. I left the stock pump in, it does not turn on now, but the fuel pump is just getting air. Is there a way to prime it?
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby Phantom » January 12th 2012, 10:50pm

trapper20 wrote: but the fuel pump is just getting air.

not sue what ya mean there ,
but the fuel pump will not run if the PCM does not get a signal from oil pressure switch telling the PCM that there is at least 5 psi oil pressure , at 4 psi and less the PCM will shut off the fuel pump

If you are eliminating the PCM , you will have to make a custom wiring that runs like an aftermarket electric fuel pump ,
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » January 12th 2012, 11:13pm

Sorry I was unclear. I have an aftermarket pump and it runs, but is not priming. No gas is getting to the carb, and I can clearly hear the pump run.
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby Phantom » January 13th 2012, 1:34am

There may be a check valve that needs reset , here is a install info for Holley electric fuel pump that shows how to wire it up with a oil pressure switch , you'll need the safety feature , there are other tips you'll ned to consider as well

remove lines and test for fuel exiting the pump , try putting some hose on inlet side then stick in a jar a gas , then put a hose on outlet at pump and test that way , confirm that it is picking up and coming put pump , , you may have a clogged filter that does not pass the fuel , depending on how much pressure the pump makes ,

a carb does not need as much fuel pressure as the CSFI stock fuel injection system needs , so if filter is clogged the lower pressure may not pass through it id clogged ,,, be sure that the correct orientation of fuel lines , if not correct it will not pump fuel


here is a link that shows show good info , a rollover safety feature
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki ... _fuel_pump
Attachments
Holley electric fuel pump install .pdf
(396.32 KiB) Downloaded 64 times
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » January 13th 2012, 6:26am

Okay, thanks Phantom. I tried pouring more gas into the tank in case that was the problem, but no go with at least 7 gallons in the tank.

Here is how the fuel supply is set up starting at the tank, ending at the carb:
Stock pump (not running)-----stock filter with <500 miles on it---pump filter attached to new inline pump---carburetor filter

Could it be that the pump is not strong enough, given it is a 3-9 psi pump, to pull through both filters? Should I remove the stock filter?

By all accounts, the new pump should suck through the stock pump, if I understand correctly. Is this not the case?

On a side note, I ran a line straight from a gas can to the pump and it primed right away.

Should pulling the filter make a big difference, or do I need to pull the tank and run a new line with a strainer into it?

Also, what are the two vent lines for? Do I need them? Should I block them off? Thanks to all for your help.
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby Phantom » January 13th 2012, 7:09am

I would need to verify to be sure but I think that the 3-5 psi is too low , that may be what a engine mounted mechanical pump would give , but so often with electric fuel pumps to carbs are compared to a TBI system which is 9-15 psi , that is a long way to push fuel from tank to carb ,, I would think you need at least 7 psi ,,, there is a fuel return line that dumps fuel back to the tank , like am overflow , what is not taken into carb is sent back to tank , there is also a vent line for fumes ,, you will need a fuel pressure regulator to keep the pressure at a constant psi , lack of pressure can prevent engine from running
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » January 13th 2012, 7:02pm

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdNlND6SNVE&feature=plcp&context=C38abd43UDOEgsToPDskJnPci2stjGILhPkeTxfx3A[/youtube]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdNlND6S ... hPkeTxfx3A
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Firing on 2 Cylinders (L1)
Years of Membership: trapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full years
Posts: 277
Topics: 25
Images: 3
Joined: June 2011
Gender: Male
Alias (AKA):
Van Make/Model: GMC Safari
Extra Info: Lifted 4x4 V8

Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby Phantom » January 13th 2012, 7:06pm

It's Alive ! :dance:

:rockon:
Phantom
Firing on 7 Cylinders (L4)
Firing on 7 Cylinders (L4)
Years of Membership: Phantom has been a member for 10 full yearsPhantom has been a member for 10 full yearsPhantom has been a member for 10 full yearsPhantom has been a member for 10 full yearsPhantom has been a member for 10 full yearsPhantom has been a member for 10 full yearsPhantom has been a member for 10 full yearsPhantom has been a member for 10 full yearsPhantom has been a member for 10 full yearsPhantom has been a member for 10 full years
Posts: 3725
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Joined: July 2010
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Van Make/Model: Chevrolet Astro

Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » January 22nd 2012, 5:42am

Okay, it's been a long time since I posted, got a lot done so far. She runs and drives! Here is what I have done so far:

I ended up using the stock transfer case: AWD for now, 4x4 probably this summer. I have the transfer case, but I need driveshafts done for that swap.

I am not doing the trans rebuild for now, I have the hardened sun gear shell and rebuild kit for later. I did replace the torque converter with a new high stall converter.

Exhaust was an issue; I solved the issues I posted earlier by welding a header collector that I had cut short to a bend, I was able to do it without a tight bend. That pipe goes over the transmission (thanks body lift) and I joined the two with a homemade H-pipe. Flowmaster Super 44's were on sale at Jeg's, so I got a pair. Chrome tips coming later, both will likely exit behind the passenger rear wheel.

I needed a 1" carb spacer to clear the MSD HEI.

I wired power for the dist, TCC, and fuel pump to plugs under the dash that have power only when the key is forward.

Ignition is wired to a momentary toggle switch with an amber light on the dash next to the key ignition.

The stock throttle cable was incompatible, as well as frayed, so I got an 82.5" cable for a chevy pickup and routed it all the way around the air cleaner and to the rear of the carb.

Trimmed the fenders for clearance for the Dunlop Mud Rover 32x11.50R15's. Can anyone post links to some universal fender flares that I could use to make the wheel wells look better?

So, I started it up, ran it for 15 min at around 1500 rpm with a zinc additive in the oil to break in the cam. Changed the oil, started it back up, ran good except for some choke issues that make it want to flood. Opened the garage door and took it out, but it wants to die every time I hit the gas. I let is warm up for a while, still wants to starve out. I used a 35 gph fuel pump inline and disconnected the stock pump's wire. Do I need a better pump, or a regulator for the stock pump?

:auto-layrubber:
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
Original Poster [OP]
User avatar
trapper20
V8 Swap Achievement
V8 Swap Achievement
Firing on 2 Cylinders (L1)
Firing on 2 Cylinders (L1)
Years of Membership: trapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full yearstrapper20 has been a member for 9 full years
Posts: 277
Topics: 25
Images: 3
Joined: June 2011
Gender: Male
Alias (AKA):
Van Make/Model: GMC Safari
Extra Info: Lifted 4x4 V8

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