Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby 97cargocrawler » January 22nd 2012, 6:58am

trapper20 wrote: I did replace the torque converter with a new high stall converter.



Hmmmm...why high stall when you're making this into an off road beast?
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » January 22nd 2012, 4:45pm

This is my daily driver as well, 95% on road. It is just a 2000-2500 stall converter, so nothing crazy.
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » January 27th 2012, 12:02am

Question, cargocrawler, why would I want a lower stall? hp and torque are higher at higher rpms, and I like keeping it in 1st or 2nd anyway when I am in the thick of it, so what is the problem with a high stall? Still figuring all this out here, haha.

Starving out problem fixed: here is what I did: Replaced distributor with MSD Street Fire distributor. The stock distributor was missing the centrifugal advance springs, and I wanted MSD anyway.

Had a friend help me take apart the carb and look for issues; two of the metering rods had not gone into the proper holoes during the rebuild and were jammed and the metering rod bracket was bent.

Using the thin gasket that came with the carb spacer was a bad idea. It had torn in one area, so we put the thick one that came with the carb rebuild kit in there.

All this helped, but I still couldn't put the foot to it without it starving out. Hooked the pump up to a gas can, took right off. Dang that thing has a lot more torque than a 4.3.

Dropped the tank and pulled the pump out, and the strainer had gas in it, but the gas was staying in the strainer rather than pouring out. Problem??? :shrug: Yeah.

So, is it easy enough to get that strainer off? or should I rig up a completely separate pickup?
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby 97cargocrawler » January 27th 2012, 5:40pm

trapper20 wrote:Question, cargocrawler, why would I want a lower stall? hp and torque are higher at higher rpms, and I like keeping it in 1st or 2nd anyway when I am in the thick of it, so what is the problem with a high stall? Still figuring all this out here, haha.


It all depends on your engine and what you plan to do with it. I think 2500 seems too high for a 4x4 vehicle you plan to use off-road even if it's 99% DD. Your converter is in the middle range of what's available. Any higher and it would only be useful for racing. Mine is in the 1600 range and is better for hauling heavy loads, off-road and towing.

I'd say you are at the maximum recommended stall speed for any type of off-road use. If you plan to burn rubber around town in your 4x4 then you're good. If you want to waste a lot of gas and overheat your tranny on the trails stick with the 2500. I suggest you install a secondary tranny cooler.

This info is not hard to come by, have you done any research on TC's for 4x4's?
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » February 3rd 2012, 7:14am

No, I didn't do as much research as I probably should have, I just put the higher stall in there to match the more powerful engine. As I have now done more reading, I think that you are probably right, but for my application I am still glad I got the higher stall. I may go to a stock stall later if it gives me grief, but I will put a cooler in to get me by.
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby 97cargocrawler » February 3rd 2012, 7:30am

Good news is it only takes about 2-3 hours to swap in a new one and they are cheap.
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » February 9th 2012, 3:58am

Got a lot done on the beast. It is in, up, and running. I was testing it with my brother and a friend in the vehicle, gave it a little over half throttle, and it peeled out in AWD for over 100 feet. Not too shabby when that is 3 32" tires turning at once with the G80. :auto-layrubber:
Since I have done a few more burnouts, it will burn out off a 10 mph roll. I need to limit those burnouts though, Dunlop 32's are not cheap.
I was leaking oil out the back though, so as the oil was dark I decided to change it a little early, at about 200 miles, and replace the pan gasket. Replaced it, and it starts leaking out both ends at the rubbers. Replaced it again, this time with RTV on both sides of the rubbers, and I laid it on thick, as the front rubber was the improper thickness. I let it set overnight, then in the morning let it run for about 10 minutes to allow the oil to get up to temperature. Seals looked good. Took off, had good oil pressure. Stopped at a gas station to get some Gatorade for some hardcore tackle football before the Superbowl. Looked under the van, and oil is everywhere. It was about a quart low.
I am going to replace the gasket for the third time tomorrow. What do you all think is my problem? Does RTV need more than 12-15 hours at 45-50 degrees F? PCV valve is new, I will check that it is good, I just can't think of any other reason that I am blowing through gaskets.
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby Doghouseanddirtroad » February 9th 2012, 4:38am

Sounds like a great project so far is it possible the oil pan twisted while you were welding it? Did you end up pulling out the factory fuel pump? I would think it would be alot of restriction for something you weren't using anyway ! Just another opinion. Ted
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » February 9th 2012, 4:43am

Yeah I rigged a separate pickup for the gas.
The cork gaskets seem to be sealing well, so I don't think that the pan is damaged. I couldn't find any evidence of damage. Possible, though.
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby Doghouseanddirtroad » February 9th 2012, 4:47am

Sorry also just want to ask, you said you needed a washable aircleaner if you plan on running in mud please keep that thing covered! A good soakin could be really bad for that sweet new motor those open chrome cleaners don't look any better than a closed factory one when they are muddy and can kill your engine.
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » February 9th 2012, 4:54am

Yup, it's getting a prefilter and a skid plate before any serious off road trips.
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby Doghouseanddirtroad » February 9th 2012, 5:06am

Not my personnel experience but I had a front row seat lol . As my sign suggests I like big tires and mud last time I raced my tracker my girlfriend took 2nd place in 33" to 38" class and popped up at least one front tire off the line! I don't know if you have another thread with your body lift but would love more info. Is it 5"? What problems did you run into?
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » February 9th 2012, 5:26am

Yes, 5" lift. I had a 2" OLV body lift, then wanted to go higher, so I did a 3" welded pipe lift then put the 2" spacers on top of that and used the included hardware. I needed to extend my steering shaft, but apart from that and the power steering hoses being stretched to the max I don't recall any issues apart from what you would run into with the 2" lift.
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby chevymaher » February 9th 2012, 7:40pm

trapper20 wrote: What do you all think is my problem? Does RTV need more than 12-15 hours at 45-50 degrees F? PCV valve is new, I will check that it is good, I just can't think of any other reason that I am blowing through gaskets.


There are 2 sized rubber end gaskets normal and huge.If it to small the rubber gasket it leaves a gap.If it to big it holds the end of the oil pan open on the sides.I would put the pan on with out any gaskets first to see if it flat as previously posted.If flat just see which of the 2 gaskets it seems to be wanting.

This is the gasket sealer I use it literally will stick to oil.
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » February 11th 2012, 6:40pm

Ok, I might have found my problem. Which vacuum hose on the Quadrajet should attach to the PCV? I have it attached to an upper port, but when I disconnected it with the van running it was not sucking, at idle or rev. I think this is giving me a problem with crankcase pressure, causing leaks. Should the PCV go to the bottom of the carb?
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby Mr_Bowtie » February 11th 2012, 7:11pm

It needs vacuum...........so it needs to attach below the butterflies. Like on a fuel injected car there is no vacuum before the throttle body just fresh air, anywhere after the throttle body blade there is. As the throttle blade opens the vacuum goes down. With throttle blade open all the way there is no vacuum as you are hauling ***! :rockon:
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby loopie » February 13th 2012, 8:25am

trapper20 wrote:Yes, 5" lift. I had a 2" OLV body lift, then wanted to go higher, so I did a 3" welded pipe lift then put the 2" spacers on top of that and used the included hardware. I needed to extend my steering shaft,


Hello (I haven't been around in a while), but you just might be my newest best friend at the moment. Really diggin' what you've done to your van and it's even more awesome that you're here to share details!

More details on the steering mods would be helpful...where I'm at, there are laws that prohibit ANY welds aside from OEM. The last time I looked into it, and as memory serves(or doesn't)..A Savanna van steering shaft was the way to go......what have you done with your Beast?

(I'm looking to prep a subframe with steel risers aswell)
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » February 13th 2012, 11:51pm

Hey, Loopie! I've been keeping an eye out for your site, any developments on it?

As for the steering shaft, we don't have to pass inspection here, so I have a welded pipe extension on my intermediate shaft. I too have heard that the Savanna shafts will work, but I don't know how much extension they give. 5" might be too much.
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby trapper20 [OP] » February 25th 2012, 11:20pm

Got a lot done the last couple of days; my friend Dan came over and we spent 12 hours or so on it.

Removed the timing chain cover and resealed it with RTV; it had been overtightened before and I think it was leaking.

Clutch fan was shot, so we put in an electric fan out of a Malibu. It is a two speed but the wiring kit I have is a one speed only. I set it up for high speed, but it kept blowing fuses (it came with a 25 amp) so I wired it for low speed only. I think I will put a 30 amp fuse in there and try the high speed again. I wired it to a lit rocker switch so I can shut it off manually when I am mudding.

Adjusted the vacuum switch on my tcc lockup. It was shuttling on/off at cruising speeds. I lowered it about half a turn. I think I may have gone too far, as it locks up a little soon and then I have to give it about 40% throttle to get it to unlock. Or maybe I have this backwards and I need to raise it. I haven't figured that out yet.

Rebuilt my front driveshaft with a new ball-socket joint ot whatever it is called that sits between the two u-joints. The UJ's were good, but I crushed some needle bearings putting it all back together so I ended up replacing one of them.

Did a whole lot of rewiring stuff. Still can't get my blinkers to work. Hazards work, but not blinkers. Do blinkers go throught the neutral safety switch? I must have cut something somewhere but I have no idea what. Phantom, any ideas? Anybody?

My electric choke was not working, so we set it up with a manual choke.

Put the interior dash back together. Lots of small stuff.

Tried for forever to find out what was clunking during acceleration. Today I finally figured it out. My brother got my dad's Silverado stuck in some deep snow. Completely bottomed it out. I backed up to it and we hooked it up and my van yanked that truck out so easily it was hard to believe. It was making an awful noise while I was in the snow, though. So I had my brother get in the van and peel out on the snow-covered road while I looked under it, and the sound was clearly coming from the transfer case. Not too surprised as when I had drained the fluid it came out light brown colored. I think that earlier in the summer when it was submerged for a few hours in a mud hole it got water in it and I didn't think to check the fluid. So now it is shot. Jimmy p/b case going in probably next weekend. Just have to get some driveshafts and get them to the shop to get made to length.

I can still drive for a few days with the bad transfer case, right? I still have AWD. I guess what I am asking is that nothing else will be damaged, right? Like the front diff? I realize that the case could blow and I could be stranded or at least without AWD.
8" lift: OLV shackles, add-a-leaf springs, shop-made 4" blocks, 5" combo pipe/puck lift and OLV torsion keys. 32-11.50R15 Dunlop Mud Rovers on Cragar Soft 8's.
'76 Chevy 350 with mild cam, 87-95 heads, MSD ignition, headers
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Re: Lifted 4x4 Safari with carbureted 350

Postby chevymaher » February 25th 2012, 11:24pm

Did you use a relay for the electric fan?
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