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Burl -- 2003 GMC Safari soon to be camper

11K views 106 replies 11 participants last post by  dcsleeper 
#1 ·
Hey all, picked up this guy about 2-3 weeks ago and it's mostly been sitting as summer things have been taking over. I've been slowly picking up on some issues as I drive it more and scheming.

Picked it up in denver from a used car dealer, was his personal ride. It seems his plan was to rice it out. Was a rebuild from salvage, passenger door and front quarter panel have been replaced and painted to match. 3.73 rear / no LSD, AWD. So far, it seems pretty much everything they did is terrible. I think they outsourced the door/panel work so that actually seems pretty OK. The headlights don't fit. The aftermarket grill is held in place with wood screws. There was a rear sway bar that didn't fit at all and was loose when i bought it and has marred up some of the lines on the rear axle but i think i got it out of there before too much damage. The seller was stunned that this was there (and this was a car dealer???). the price was right though, and low miles due to the salvage (118k at purchase), clean underneath, and the good gear ratio in the rear axle.



Hanging in the driveway with my current transit connect camper.


It had some terrible aftermarket headlights and signals that don't fit AT ALL. I have reinstalled the original signals, but am wondering if anyone can recommend some that would actually fit? it looks kinda lame with nice clear headlights and fogged/yellowed signals.

Took a trip to the local pick n pull within the first week or so and got a DIC installed. not too bad but spent a lot of time chasing loose connections in the harnesses :banghead:



also picked up some seat bases from a power seat model & am planning to install some seat swivels.

planned:
2-3" lift
swivel seats
rip out the back & camper-ize
larger tires
roof rack
install aftermarket LSD in rear

stretch plan:
some sort of 4x4 conversion
electrical system for the camper setup

Issues so far:
throwing a P0101 code, seems to only happen under heavy acceleration / load -- as an example: i live a few thousand feet vertical up a canyon. Drove down about 40mins and no code at all. On the way back up, got the code again within 10 minutes. I have already changed the air filter and it had the dirtiest one i've ever seen in a vehicle so i'm wondering if it's just a dirty MAF (still getting code after changing). going to do some signal readings to see if that is all lining up. check for vacuum leaks. if that all looks good, i'll probably turn to MAF cleaner next. any suggestions?

driver armrest flop

squeaky/sagging doors. already got the driver side with a floor jack, just need to hit the passenger i think.

got a big box of fluids and going through one by one. oil change on the list, checking t-case fluid, diff fluids. spark plugs as well which it looks like should be an adventure.
 
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#2 ·
Follow up on the p0101:

MAP is reading 75kpa at 8300ft above sea level which seems within range.

MAF read 11.5g/s at 900rpm idle, once warmed up read around 8.5g/s at 650 rpm idle. WOT at 1-2 shift was a little hard to tell as the OBD only updates every second or so, but was 100 g/s or more. wasn't able to find any obvious vacuum leaks.

Pulled the filter box off and found some roadside potpourri on the MAF so gonna hit it with some cleaner as a first step.
 
#4 ·
If cleaning the MAF doesn't help, my '05 would throw that code initially under heavy acceleration, then under moderate acceleration, then under any acceleration...

My injectors were leaking into the cylinders (and the PO had the spark messed with to mask the problem for a while) and the unburnt fuel took out the cats. Melted them so only idle exhaust could get through. I fixed the spark problem, which made the fuel problem obvious so I fixed that, then the cat problem also became obvious. Fixed that, no more P0101, coughing, hesitating, roaring, falling flat on its face.

Sorry, that was long-winded. Really, what the code meant in my case was that the engine couldn't get enough air in because no air could get out. After the spark and fuel work, I pulled one oxygen sensor and accelerated (really loudly) out of my driveway, no problem at all. Did the loop to get back to my driveway, ran up to the computer and ordered the y-pipe and gaskets. Since then, I haven't had a single problem.
 
#6 ·
Wow, thanks for the replies and info all -- i wasn't subscribed to the thread (thought that was auto for your own posts) and so i missed all this.

SportsBoy said:
Good luck dude! Did you get a Safari to camperize because it has more room and offroad ability than your transit?
Exactly. Even this last weekend for the 4th I was reminded what 7inches of clearance on 26" wheels, FWD, no traction control feels like on the roads around here. also living up in the hills, there's pretty much 5" of snow on the roads october to april and i just need a bit more help from the vehicle. The transit is pretty much a bed in a box, so i'm hoping to have swivel seats for some seating and a little bit of floor space.

Leeann_93 said:
If cleaning the MAF doesn't help, my '05 would throw that code initially under heavy acceleration, then under moderate acceleration, then under any acceleration...

My injectors were leaking into the cylinders (and the PO had the spark messed with to mask the problem for a while) and the unburnt fuel took out the cats. Melted them so only idle exhaust could get through. I fixed the spark problem, which made the fuel problem obvious so I fixed that, then the cat problem also became obvious. Fixed that, no more P0101, coughing, hesitating, roaring, falling flat on its face.

Sorry, that was long-winded. Really, what the code meant in my case was that the engine couldn't get enough air in because no air could get out. After the spark and fuel work, I pulled one oxygen sensor and accelerated (really loudly) out of my driveway, no problem at all. Did the loop to get back to my driveway, ran up to the computer and ordered the y-pipe and gaskets. Since then, I haven't had a single problem.
Wow - that was quite the process it sounds like. I'm praying mines a little simpler :pray: . Update on that -- I got MAF cleaner today in the mail. blasted the MAF, let dry. i swear the honeycomb was a bit more bronze in color before (can't really see the sensors/wires). Popped it back in and took the same drive as the first time around, no code! the MAF now is reading 4g/s at around 650rpm idle... from my memory, that's outside the range stated in the manual... but, no code? :shrug: I expected the number to change but that seemed drastic. perhaps its the elevation? Will be keeping an eye for pending codes, but hopefully that's all it was. That air filter was gnar-ly so i think that could've actually been all it was.
 
#8 ·
alright, a little update -- was planning to do the plugs this weekend (got delco iridiums) and oil so i decided to pull off the doghouse for the first time mainly to peek at the plug wires and distributor. Aside from all the foam pretty much crumbling and blowing away in the wind, i thought things looked pretty good in there. a little bit of oil here and there but nothing significant that i could spot (although i certainly welcome extra eyes)

IMG_20200708_180459.jpg


a high pressure line (ac?) looked to be rubbing the doghouse a bit.

IMG_20200708_180636.jpg


IMG_20200708_180644.jpg


PS valve cover area

IMG_20200708_180651.jpg


Plug lines looked good to me, read "Packard" on the side, don't think they are original. Distributor cap seems to not be either, had some fresher seeming blue loctite on the screws. That said, i think it looks pretty nasty once open. The cap has some corrosion on the terminals, as well as the rotor.

IMG_20200708_181257.jpg


IMG_20200708_181304.jpg


IMG_20200708_181521.jpg


It also had a bit of play that seems to indicate some wear? from what i could determine here, the rotational play seemed pretty normal. No radial play that i could detect (i think i attempt to deflect in vid 2). however, at the CCW end of the rotational play, it's possible to "pop" past the easy end point and eek out a little more rotational play that is accompanied by a bit of axial play. hopefully the videos make that more clear...





From what i can gather from here: https://sites.google.com/site/astrosafa ... or-disease, that axial play is bad? i haven't noticed any serious ignition symptoms nor P03XX codes, but this has me thinking i should probably do the distributor as well as the plugs? and hey while I'm at it the plug wires as well? Any thoughts? And if it's recommended to do distributor / cap / rotor etc any recommendations on brands or just stick OE? (i'll take plug wire recommendations as well)
 
#9 ·
After comparing those videos more closely to the videos at the link I shared and doing some reading here, it looks like the axial play is normal and the amount of rotational play I'm seeing is not too bad? may just do cap/rotor due to the corrosion. plug wires look pretty clean (although dry) so may just coat with some fresh dielectric grease and put new plugs in.
 
#10 ·
Haven't watched the video, but Delphi wires say Delphi Packard, or something like that. Well, it could be AC Delco, but I think it was the Delphi wires...

That cap and rotor could look a lot worse, but the rotor definitely has an arc on the end and it's time to replace it.

It's a bit dusty under there, but I don't see anything terrible. Does look like the AC line needs to be bent a little forward because it is rubbing.

AC Delco cap and rotor, AC Delco or Delphi wires.
 
#11 ·
Update: did plugs, wires, dsitributor cap/rotor last weekend. Aside from the wires being a total PITA, everything seemed to go well. The P0101 has returned, and at one point there was an oxygen sensor code P0131 (pending) but it has gone away. trying to figure out what is going on with the MAF -- starting a thread in the engine sub here: https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=143144
 
#13 ·
Slight update: Replaced all vac lines, did some test drives, and seem to have no more P0101. Replaced rear DS park brake (housing busted open). There is some sort of intake hose on the PS of the intake that i plan to replace soon as it's in bum shape.

Have some radio & speakers work to do soon, hopefully this weekend. Then likely pulling out the carpet & starting to think about build. Going to be using one of these for the radio: https://isimple.com/collections/tranzit ... -car-radio . I'm a big proponent of hands free for driving, so i'm hoping this can make that easy (and allow some tunes through the radio). Also, my phone doesn't have a headphone jack so the common AUX mods were more or less out for me.

Swivel bases were ordered about a month ago, est ship date 9/3 due to the state of the world.

Edit: also plan to drain and refill coolant. getting ahead of myself on the camper build. Also looking into lift more seriously, thinking 3+1
 
#14 ·
Also forgot I had a fuel filter sitting around, popped that in this evening without too much trouble.

My wipers don't seem to like to stay attached, maybe I worked the catch on the install. idk. either way, I'd say the way these wipers install is pretty stupid. So I added a little zip tie mod that I think came out pretty well, and seems to help hold them on. maybe it's just the wipers bought, although they are decent (trico neoform)

IMG_20200730_181905.jpg


(I trimmed the zip tie flush after this photo for aero)
 
#15 ·
Small update: replacing vacuum lines fixed the P0101 code. I had originally installed a dorman check valve that seemed defective out of the box, started getting the blowing out the defroster under load issue which i don't think i had at one point. Installing actual delco valve resolved that portion. Installed new DS park brake line, current one had blown housing essentially leaving me with no park brake. Installed new fuel filter.

Coolant still on the to-do list, and then i'm looking into getting a detroit truetrac for the rear axle before the snow hits here.
 
#16 ·
Also installed a Bluetooth adapter that goes in the way of the FM antenna. This one here:https://isimple.com/products/install-kit-for-hands-free-calling-and-music-streaming-through-your-car-radio

Don't pay the price there, I paid less than half I think from new egg. Turns out the factory antenna is a smaller diameter than what that expects. there's probably other ways to do this but I just got this adapter set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EEIXVC/re ... mFb497MT4J

problem solved!

It actually worked out pretty well, the unit fit behind the stash box that is in place of the optional CD player. Sound quality on music is good to good+ not suited for audiophiles I'm sure. call quality is good- there's some occasional buzzing. Just tied it into the power/ground for the radio, no ground noise at all.

Here it is stashed behind the cubby. used velcro to hold it in place.you can see it spliced into the yellow line, that was switched power on my radio.
 

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#18 ·
Hey markmitch! thanks!

I should have been more specific -- I grabbed the metal frame that goes under all the "power" portion of the power seats. I did this just because it is shorter, has a flat top, and is more close to level so that you don't end up at weird angles while swivelling (as I think at least driver needs to be on top of the frame due to airbag sensor sticking up)
 
#19 ·
Ok well today driving back up the large hill to get home (15mi / 3k vertical) I got a blinking SES light. popped in the OBD and it seems like I have a p0300. I say seems because that's what car gauge pro and chevrosys report. piston reports a p0304 (nowhere to be found in the others). I'm not sure how that's even possible.

Not in a position to dig into this too far for a week or so as I'm going to be moving and lots of other enjoyable life things. so for now, just thinking.

As I've done cap, rotor, wires, plugs my guesses at this point are coil, fuel pressure, fuel injectors, or it needs a full dizzy and cap/rotor didn't do it

otherwise I guess we are talking sensor issues or compression issues. hopefully doesn't come to that.

any other 2¢ welcome in the meantime. will update as things evolve.

Hey still no p0101 though.
 
#21 ·
MechBob said:
I would clear code and take for normal test drive and see if it quickly resets code.
Hey MechBob, thanks for the tips. I'm not doubting this is a valid way to go but i just want to make sure i understand before going with it. What would that show if it comes back quick? or the other way, if it seems to not come back?

in addition to this, it looks like the torque pro app can count misfire events so i think i may hook that up at some point soon and see what i get as another no disassembly required option.
 
#22 ·
Well, MechBob you got your wish -- I went back to the car today, plugged in OBD2 before starting and checked codes with KOEO as a reference point. A couple apps on my phone said code gone, one still said P0300 was present (the one that originally reported P0300).

Took a drive around town. No SES light, no change in codes. Decided why not go to the exact hill where it originally happened, so I did. Car was warmed up, no moisture present either time. Thought It should be pretty similar conditions.

Couldn't get the code to throw. Watched misfire events from torque pro and got no increase in misfires. C4 has 438 historical, C3 has 2 historical. All the rest 0. No increases on this drive.

I will say, it did seem like the car behaved slightly differently.

When i originally got the code, it seemed like the car should have downshifted and jumped up in the RPMs to give a little more power to work with, however it didn't and instead just sat in the current gear with the throttle 100% and kinda felt like it was bogging the whole time.

This time around, the car "seemed more willing" to downshift on this particular segment of road, and did. I was still able to give it WOT but it downshifted and accelerated. Maybe i was at a slightly different speed? hard to say. I was within 5-10mph for sure.

Unsure on this one.

Double checked plug #4 as well, clean looking, no oil or anything. good connection to plug wire (fresh wire as well).
 
#24 ·
Nasty gas or additives left nasty deposits on the plug.

Of course the old plug was going to run like shit and of course the new plug was going to be fine.
 
#25 ·
Sorry that may have been unclear -- I changed the plugs several weeks ago. the misfire happened for the first time with the new plugs (first pic).

I should probably put "first time" in quotes bc apparently having a P0101 means the engine won't run misfire codes as it doesn't have a point of reference from what I read. so it's possible this was hiding behind the p0101 for awhile.
 
#26 ·
I guess one thing I would add as well, driving with the doghouse off it seems like at random times something in the engine bay sounds like a bunch of ball bearings rattling around. or like there's a loose screw in the distributor getting tossed around. something like that. one thing I noticed almost always seemed to do it on the most recent test drive was getting up to about 30mph and coasting. then put light pressure on the throttle, not much more than enough to maintain current speed on flat ground. as long as this throttle pressure was held, it would sound like the ball bearings noise.

Gas is 87 octane. base timing advance at idle fluctuates btw 16.5-18 deg
 
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