And so it begins, my ‘93

[Leeann_93]

My husband's cousin loves to tell a story about their uncle, Mr Very Goodwrench. The cousin's tranny blew and their uncle said he'd show him ONCE how to take it apart and put it back together.

He said, you pull it out of the case, put the pieces in order on the bench, match up the new pieces, assemble them and put 'em back into the case. And apparently it took about that long

Cousin said, I still have absolutely no idea what he did, but my tranny was rebuilt and it worked great

On another note, follow this site (keep hitting next...and click on each pic to make it big):
http://www.wwdsltd.com/4L60/4L60ERemoval.html

[sixsix]

Boy !! This is going to be fun!

That Trans will be Perfect. Especially with it being all shiny n' all...
Any more photos?



Mike

[WoodButcher]

Thanks Leeann, that may be helpful.

I'll have a few pics Mike but for the most part other than proof "I was there" and couple of a modified tool there isn't much point. No way I could do a "how to" any better than HG's video, but I will have a couple WTF!!! moments captured.

[sixsix]

Yeah right, you feeble minded wretch.



Mike

[WoodButcher]

Hey! I resemble that remark!
Senior moment when I found this after fighting with the low/ reverse piston seal,



Transtec sends it with the rebuild kit, a tool that slides between the piston bore and piston to persuade the lip of the seal to fit, it looks like a thing I make to jimmy entry door locks, I use a plastic coffee can lid and roll it into the strike while bumping the door.

Steering wheel lock removal tool, now a clutch spring compressor,





The steel you see is cut and tapered on the ends to fit a snap ring grove in the housing, could have made another for the one pictured but I was able to work it with the clamp just fine.

Hot and humid outside but here I have a small window AC cranked,
don't tell the wife!

[WoodButcher]

Today it's back together and painted. She's on the bench waiting for me and I hope to God I got it right. Couple weeks till I'm ready.



Couple notes if someone wants to copy this build, I quoted and added a note or two. Also get assembly lube for transmissions. I bought just the thick green and thinned some out with trans fluid as you don't need the thick stuff but for a couple items but you do use the thin stuff everywhere.
For cleaner I used brake cleaner, 1/2 dozen cans or so and the same number rolls of paper towels.

So OK,
Here was the order I got from Oregon Performance Transmission,


ORE-4L60B-10 Gm 4L60E 1993-1996 (Non-Pwm) Heavy Duty High Stall Torque Converter 2000-2400 282.60
ORE-4L60E-RB GM 4L60E 4L65E 4L70E Automatic Transmission Master Rebuild Kit Build Olds Pontiac Chevrolet 159.99
ORE-CV-Pin Corvette Servo Piston & Long Pin 700R4 4L60E 4L65E 4L70E 4L75E Automatic Transmission 42.50
NTP-51810B GM 700R4 Beast Sun Gear Shell 700-R4 4L60 4L60E 4L65E 4L70E Transmission 63.49
LBG-19001 Lubegard Kooler Flush Transmission Cooler Cleaner 12.27
ATSG-4L60E ATSG 4L60E Automatic Transmission Rebuild Manual 93-UP Service Overhaul 4L65E 4L70E 4L75E 23.99
SNX-77987-01K Sonnax GM 4L60E Transmission Pinless Forward Accumulator Piston 4L65E 4L70E 4L75E 14.42
TRG-46-PLT-94 Transgo GM 4L60E 1993-1994 Separator Plate 4L60-E Automatic Transmission 27.93
TRG-700PKH Transgo GM 700R4 Unbreakable Pump Ring Kit High Rev 4L60E 4L65E 4L70E 2004R Transmission 13.33
ORE-4L60E-EL 4L60E Transmission Electronics EPC Kit Solenoids Internal Wire Harness 4L65E 4L70E Lockup Solenoid 219.99
In this kit there was an extra TCC solenoid because the kit covers '93 - 2000 and '95-up use two.
SNX-77998-03K Sonnax GM 700R4 Transmission Pinless 1-2 & 3-4 Accumulator Piston TH2004R 4L60E 4L65E 4L70E 16.26
Buy two of these!!! They are used in the 1-2 & 3-4 Accumulator Pistons I thought it was one piston,,, I bought only one but found a workaround in HG's video. I used the one I bought in the cup, the 1-2 piston and the 3-4 in the case I used a trick from the B&M shift kit that required a little fabrication. See the rebuild video.

Subtotal: 876.77
Shipping: Free Shipping (Usually 2-3 days. 2-5 on larger items): 0.00
Sales Tax: 0.00
Order Total: 876.77

[WoodButcher]

from the "what have you done thread" last Sunday-

Had to give in and replace the drivers door handle on the '93 today. It's been bad for a while, didn't seem like it would wait much longer before coming off in my hand and I heard a rattle inside I didn't like.
A couple months back if the window was open more than 1/3 the door wouldn't open from inside but the issue went away so I forgot about it. Today when I opened the panel I found the cause of that problem and my rattle. The rear track had broken the bottom welds, slipped down falling to the bottom of the door. After I swapped handles I put the track back on, used peanuts for metal stud through the broken spot welds, worked like a champ.
Put window tape on the inside of the door skin and I'll put a layer of that bubble wrap insulation over that before I close it up. After work this week I'll refurb the door panel, glue loose edges and replace the trees.

I started on the panel, found some cracks in the fiberboard, the top ear that covers the mirror bolts was snapped entirely and the trailing edge by the latch was broken pretty badly. Above that the narrow section where the armrest mounts was broken as well, separated from the metal reinforcement. Before I can re-stretch the vinyl I had some fixin' to do.

I used PL Premium construction adhesive to re-attach the upper section to the steel backer that was there and made another backer for trailing edge from a bit of ductwork I had laying around. The red paper and popsicle sticks are what I used to keep my clamps out of the glue.



Fiberglass on the broken ear,



I used the PL on the missing and broken tree supports as well. PL premium sticks and holds well to most anything and will harden up across voids, perfect for this kind of fix.

[sixsix]

UGH...

Not looking forward to THAT at all. Haven't had the door panels off since I put JY motors in them 15 years ago. And they had been done before me also. That one owner - who had it 1 year - had already had it in the shop and the motors were already drilled out.

Best I can remember about the panels was they were in decent shape. We shall see. And , NO , I will not be getting 2 more motors. Unless they can guarantee 10 years of use.

Your panel work looked REAL familiar, what with that smell there...



Mike

[WoodButcher]

Yeah, it's messy and a PITA but if you can force yourself to take it slow and one step at a time to let the previous work set up it isn't too bad. Remember the plastic models? Build them in an hour and glue and paint was slobbed everywhere, ok for the 3rd of July,,,
The way I did the passenger side stretching the vinyl happens in 2 -3 steps for me, heat, stretch and glue the face, let set for a day.
Roll the edges with glue and clamp to set, then after that cures I'll put a bead of glue over the inside to hold it all.
I use the 3M stuff on the flat face then plumbers goop on the edges.

[sixsix]

Oh yeah, and I just caught... "...stretching the vinyl...".

Are you recovering the entire door card? Holy Cow! Need more photos that you prolly don't have - LOL



Mike

[WoodButcher]

No Mike, just re-stretching. When the glue pulls away the vinyl shrinks. I'll just be pulling it loose around the spots that have already separated so I have easy flaps to work.
This is the passenger door,



the bottom section was recovered at one time but if you look at the top that is original, no excess. That little bit isn't enough to cover the edges when it shrinks. Warm it, stretch it and glue, no problems.
The 3M spray isn't enough to hold it after a stretch but the goop and cloths pins work well. In that pic you can see the schemer of goop I put over the inside after it sticks down.

[WoodButcher]

I was able to guarantee a solid weekend to play with the truck so I dove in. My bride promised me....



I got a solid 9 hrs today so she's in. Still have to button up, driveshaft, shift cable, exhaust and the doghouse.
How long does the stealership say this takes? I figure to be done in less than 12 hrs so I figure that's pretty good for an old amateur w/ no lift. I borrowed the trans jack and that was a lifesaver. It's a harbor freight so when it lifted un-even I wasn't too surprised. It was a lot better than my floor jack.

[Leeann_93]

I have that tranny jack. It lifts evenly, but it has hinges you can lock in place for different angles and weights. If they weren't locked, it lifts unevenly.

I got it for $40, so I can't complain

[WoodButcher]

That would explain it. I had them loose to break the old trans out and didn't put them back tight.
Stupid thing was I was very careful to get it right as I was working alone I didn't want the need to manhandle anything. Everything out, cross member, starter, exhaust, shift cable, all the wires off and at a tilt on the jack so I could reach the top bolts. Put a screw jack under the engine oil pan and marked the wingnuts on the trans jack so I could set the new one in at the right angle...
I forgot to set them on the mark after removing the old trans.


If that was the worst of my errors I'll be happy.

[Leeann_93]

Shoot, worse things can and will happen. Not bad at all

[WoodButcher]

She's in and running!
11 qts. of fluid and a 40 mile shakedown run, well, groceries and a pizza for Mom. I'm a happy camper.

Thanks Leeann,
you were one that gave me cause to think I could pull it off.
Ya know, if a girl can do it,,,
just kidding. But I really do appreciate the tips and encouragement.

Oregon Performance Transmission was the best tip of all, Brian was very helpful and got me the correct parts at a good price. As said before I probably could have shopped around and gotten a "deal" but what I was after was quality parts and knowledgeable help. At O.P.T. I got that in spades.

shameless plug-
http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/

I think I've seen three or four trans re-builds here by non pro mechanics so I figured why not? worst case I waste some time and a few dollars. I won't return the trans jack just yet but if she makes it through the week I certainly will.

[Leeann_93]

Woooohooooooo!!!!!!!!

Glad I helped, even a little.

OPT is really nice and really knowledgeable. And fast shipping.

[WoodButcher]

You helped a lot.

[sixsix]

From that "Other" topic:

So far so good ... she feels good.

Congrats on a good build - quite the daunting task.
I recall seeing our Van's transmission ( at least he SAID it was ) completely broken down on a workbench at "Double a Em Co. down in Fla. But that's another whole story...

And I thought I was hot $hit rebuilding a little 65 Mustang 3-Speed once years ( OK - decades ) ago.

I hope yours stays as good as my new 1st gear was in that tranny ( it's still out there too ).



Mike

[WoodButcher]

So,
it's been a while since I've updated.
I quoted myself to save a bit of typing and point you in the right direction

I'm working on a rack idea myself now. I removed an awning frame from a house recently and part of it as an aluminum extrusion used for attaching the canvas and framing to a house.
#37 molding-
http://www.trivantage.com/webapp/wcs/st ... +12+251037
I bought 2 8' pieces from a local shop, it was just under $5.00 a foot. I figure if I can get a little arch on it so it will lay on the roof front to back It will be great for mounting crossbars and an awning tarp as well.

The parts that I got from the job were from a 20' x 12' awning. The #37 trim was in odd lengths so I bought new but I will use the hardware.

The straight clips will hold a 1/2" rod with the canvas in the J bend and the others I may use for crossbar attachment. Might weld up cross bars w/ a foot to mount to the track, dunno yet.

Well that's what I did, 3 crossbars, I'm finishing the third now and taking pics so when I finish and mount the third I'll get all the pics up at once.