Mike's 1992 Astro Resurrection / Bucket List

[sixsix]

Well now...

Got so tired of looking at The Van window sitting at an Angle, hard going up, making clanking noises.
Can't use it as a DD and trips to the Range and Store are precarious, for sure.

I Could Not Figure it out. I will admit - it kicked my butt. Just left it all apart and put it together just enough to start and go for a cruise once in a while. Knew I would "get it" eventually.


1500 Drvr Dr-Motor Regulator set up
I bolted up the Regulator w/ Motor attached using 1/4-20 stainless bolts/locknuts.
And then to make things even worse - forgot to put the Plug on the Motor.

Here it is now...


1502 Drvr Dr-Motor Power Plug
Of course - this the first of 3... yeah, 3 times - I took the Motor/Reg Assy. back out of the Door.

But - you know - even with the Motor Power hooked up before Bolting it up DID NOT CHANGE the fact that the Window was STILL going up at a 10 deg. angle.

Here are a few pics of when I took the Assy. out of the Door originally:


1344 Drvr Dr Reg Arm-Front Roller off swung down


1345 Drvr Dr Reg Arms out of Track


1347 Drvr Dr Mechanicals and tools

Here we all can plainly see there are 3 rollers - one of which is facing us in all 3 shots...
Even when I tested the Tension of the Loaded Window Raising Spring - I kept looking at 3 rollers and knew 2 of them rode in the track below the Window sash.

Thought the Reg. was universal and the 3rd Roller is used elsewhere...


1348 Window Regulator Torque check

Those last 4 pics are from here ( pg 14 ) in our Build thread:
https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.p ... &#p1471641



Mike

[sixsix]

So... In Honor of Memorial Day Weekend - I spent the day in the garage - Working on the Door... again.
Just to review...


1504 Drvr Dr-Motor-Reg Bolts 1
Here's the top 2 *******


1505 Drvr Dr-Motor-Reg Bolts 2
The Bottom *******. The easy ones. Actually - they all got easy after 3-4 times - LOL.

Before bolting it up for the last time - I DID FIGURE IT OUT.


1508 Drvr Dr-Reg 3rd Roller
HEY !!! Look here - there's another track for that 3rd Mystery Roller.
This is thru the Factory OEM 1" access hole at the end of the Door by the Latch

Problem solved - before Bolting Assy. up...

Feed the Front Top Roller into the Front of the Window Track, lift the Assy. till the holes line up.
While keeping holes lined up, push Assy. "back" till Back Top Roller can be put in the Window Track.
Now keeping an eye thru the Hole as above - the 3rd Roller can be fed into the Short Door Track.
The Roller is held captive in the Track.


1509 Drvr Dr Window up-Handle protection still on
Look!! The Window is UP and Straight. ( sorry for such a crappy pic )


1510 Drvr Dr new Edge Protection
Since I had to reach up inside and guide the Window Closer and grab that Arm and try to figure what's wrong.
Band Saw Blade edge protectors kept me from scraping / bruising my arms...
- which seem to bruise if a tissue brushes against it...
- I even wear sock gauntlets... sheesh ( yeah, quite the show I put on )


Anyway, we'll get back on it some more this coming week.



Mike

[sixsix]

How many of you knew there was a Window Regulator Roller Track built into the Door ?
I always knew of the 2 Rollers that "ran" in the Captured Roller Track built into the bottom Sash of the Window itself.

Here are a couple shots ( again ) of that "Mystery Window Track". ( almost makes it sound exciting )



1512 Drvr Dr Regulator Track
Here is yet another angled shot of the End of The Track - thru the Electric Lock Motor access hole.



1515 Drvr Dr Reg Trk Location
The (4) spot welds can be seen inside the black outline of the Door Track.

Goodness - the Window goes Down & Up w/o breathing hard and on only battery.
No Clanking, hang-ups.

And the Door is so quiet now shutting - Sounds better than New.
Working on these doors compared to a 3+1 lift may seem trivial...
- but, as you know, they are no less important.

Two things left to do:
- get a bag of "tree" fasteners for GM door/trim panels @ Aut0z0ne or similar.
- get some kind of REuse Contact glue for the Door Panel "Splash Barrier" application.



1517 Drvr Dr Paper REuse Glue
I mentioned this "Post It Note" type glue earlier in the thread.
It is like SNOT, very sticky, but has about a 10 lb release, is OEM and is still in pretty decent shape.
But not all of it.

Can't find it at 3 - 4 different style hardware ( small, medium, big & idiot box stores ).
Not having much luck online either.
Not sure if I know what to search for.

Office Depot has "Dots" and crap. I'm looking for Real Long Gummy Worms maybe coming from a tube.

Any Help?



Mike

[sixsix]

Did a little cleaning up around The Van - weather breaking - going to be a Nice Week.
Do you use a "Welcome Mat" like going into the house...?
Doesn't everybody?



Clean up and Welcome Mat Tires 1
Pesky leaves



Clean up and Welcome Mat Tires 2
Different Angle

Hey - forgot to hang the Full Size Spare - walk around it 10X a day - never noticed.
I worry about the "Hanger/Wind-Up" mechanism being strong enough for heavy Wheel/Tire Combo.
It is not eat up w/ rust. Has been kept greased & working normally.

But I wonder about maybe a better choice to hang it from - chain/cable lock w/ the OEM unit.
What about the Std size Pickups - where they offered w/ Full size matching spare tires.

Not worried so much about theft, just loosing the tire while driving - which sounds "launching".



235-75R15 vs Compact Spare
Never did weigh them, but this OEM spare was completely eat up w/ hard, brittle, flaky rust.



Shelves for more Stuff
Get this into position for stacking yet more crap - just looks better.

The wood is leaving for a better locale.
I'll take some "Action Shots" later for the "Show us your Tools" thread.

Sure DO NOT LIKE the White stain on the underhood insulation.
Well - yet another Project...



Future camper Dirty Mats Table TB
Most of the Camper Conversion is here - table with glass Top. We can just put it across a couple logs we take w/ us.
Got the ToolBox all set - went by the amalgamated list from that now famous "what to carry?" thread...

Seats are out for the air mattress or My Perfect Pillow Topper.
Cardboard there for laying underneath and Trans rebuild.
Or Trans slapping...



Rust and Cut Off
Pulling the Cut off, I noticed rust starting to creep in on the Battery Tray. And other locations, too.

Have to go look how I Started / Finished it the 1st time - be sure to not do it that way again.



OEM Floor Mats
They have been cleaned, cared for as best they can, I guess.

Short of getting newer year ( 02-05 ) Mats - Is there any way of bringing these Old ones back to life?
Sure, they can be Duplicolored or dyed, anyone try it?

Thinking of a scrub, etch or lite sandblast as an alternative.



Mike

[sixsix]

Update on the Driver's Door rebuild.

After all the photos of the various components, problems, repairs, etc ...
- I forgot to show the finished Door mechanicals with all parts installed.


1529 Drvr Dr - Overall - Regulator
Wishing I had paid more attention to where the 3 Rollers did their work.
Gave each Roller bearing a shot of Lithium.
Cleaned the 2 tracks & gave each a wipe of Lithium White Lube.



1525 Regulator - L Side
Here's left Roller closeup.
The window is approx. 5" from the "Down Stop" rubber bumper. You can just see it at bottom center.
Never got to see all this stuff as I took it all apart and taped the Window in the full up position.
After stabilizing the Regulator Spring Coil & removing the Regulator 1/4 Steel/Alum Screw Rivets...
These 2 Rollers slide to the Left to remove from the Tracks nearly at the same time after the Rt. Roller.



1527 Regulator - R Side
Here is the Rt. Roller near the end of the Window Track.
Rubber on the Bumper is still new - I'll give it a shot of Silicon spray when a final track & edge oiling is ready.



1520 GM Pnl Fstnrs - RR View Stud
Went down to @ut0z0ne, got a RR View mirror windshield stud. Check that, NO & NO at @[email protected]
Was surprised they were so hard to find - a metal one, OEM style.
Finally settled on 0'reilly'$ - they had steel and a double set of plastic ones.
I wanted steel - they sold me the one that will not fit.

The guy said he has sold this "Univ" one to GM, Furd, and Toyota drivers with good feedback.
I guess our RR view mirror is aftermarket.
Maybe a hint to get a one with lights, cameras and action, like a compass.

Any recommendations ?



1522 Old GM Pnl Fstnrs
And instead of buying 50 of these:

Door Panel Fastener-Ebay.jpg (48.44 KiB) Viewed 1913 times

Here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/50p-Door-Panel ... 2603971681
$4.96 for 50 pieces 2 weeks out ( all of a sudden, I can't wait ) or paying $2.00 at the junkyard and wander around looking for panels already removed, etc...

The 2 boxes at 0'reilly$ were $3.49 each
And I sprang for the Free Shipping, 50 pcs anyway - not much to lose there.

I could always give some away as free gifts.
I knew we needed 5 of them for sure between the 4 Panels I have pulled so far.
Most are kinda' ragged, but intact and reusable, 5 broke off so far between the Drivers, Side and the 2 Back Doors.

I carried the "Drip Liner" paper thingy in and showed them those "Glue Strips".
No help - except to go to a body shop autostore like OKI or some napa, etc.
If not, it's gorilla tape strips to the rescue.



Mike

[stent]

hi mike,
thanks for the "in the door" pics. sometime this summer i have to do that & it gives inspiration. i need to do sound deadening, new speakers, new mirrors. hopefully open them up once & be done with it. luckily my window winders are ok.
i've wondered too about hanging a full size spare underneath.

[sixsix]

hi mike,
thanks for the "in the door" pics. sometime this summer i have to do that & it gives inspiration. i need to do sound deadening, new speakers, new mirrors. hopefully open them up once & be done with it. luckily my window winders are ok.
i've wondered too about hanging a full size spare underneath.

If you need more or closer photos, let me know. It will not be too long before I have the Driver's side buttoned up ( prolly end up being 6 mos... at my pace lately ).

And about that Full Size Spare. I will be using a short section of security cable or chain with an easy lock fastener to further compliment the OEM Wind up Hanger. The weight difference and the age of the hardware makes it kind of prudent.
I would rather it did not try to get out while we're moving along at 75.



1540 Chinese GM Pnl Fstnrs 1
So it took a month to get here, but the GM Panel Fasteners finally showed up.
Yup, took a month from little ole' Guangzhou, Guangdong, China ( ...just rolls off the tongue, doesn't it ? ), a quaint, little hamlet of near 15,000,000 Chinese men & women and 3 inbetweens.



1542 Chinese GM Pnl Fstnrs 2
A bag of 50 for $4.96 - can't beat it if you don't mind waiting...

They appear to be identical in size, material and quality.
I'll give a "Full Report" when I put the Door back together here in the next... who knows.



Mike

[sixsix]

Made a tad of progress on the 'Long Lost Driver's Door'.


1550 Drvrs Dr Paper-Tape and Hot Glue

'Door Paper' tears easily, but reinforced in a few vulnerable spots keeps it in surprisingly decent condition.
Using 'G0rilla tape' on the front edge and Hot Glue/non Set around inside trailing edge - where tape would show and center areas.

Control wiring - Windows in front and the locks fed thru. Holes for retainers in right place.



1554 Drvrs Dr Hndl-Lock Lever Plate

After fastening this plastic plate:
Everything about the Lock, Latch, Linkages, Lithium and Luck was Binding, Bound up, Big effort and a *****.
Outside keylock felt like was working thru a 'Load a' Laundry'.

Could barely get the linkage to move with the inside lever.

Loosening the top 2, of the 4, holding the Handle / Lock Lever Plate made quite a difference.
Bending, Rebending and Bending once more seemed to work.
Next might be some Plastic Nibbling till it moves smooth as silk



1558 Drvrs Dr Int Pnl Inr Foam Ret'r Sckts

Well, if you missed the 1st pic of the inside of the Dr. Panel - here it is again.
There are 10 'Tree-style' retainers, std lgth used, 9 can be seen here, the 10th being up by the mirror.
I plan to do all 10 and keep the old ones as spares ...
- sell them for a $1.00 / ea on ebay - call them, "Special Used-Vintage-Marilyn Monroe".

Also - I can't believe how new the foam lining the panel feels. Still has resiliency.
That is contradictory to ANY other foam found on The Van.



1560 Drvrs Dr Int Panel-Outer Carpet Vinyl

For those itching to see the Door Panel one more time ...
- looks like a cleaning is in order
- thinking about Carpet Paint - depending if the other side one cleans up too.

Wondering about moving that Pocket.



1562 Drvrs Dr Panel Pocket Screws

Pull the foam back to expose the 6 microscopic, tiny, small, ridiculous screws - I think they were 5/32" hex.
Just a sneeze away from rounding over ...
- the head is only 1/32" thick and average sockets won't even 'catch'.

Remove the screws and the Pocket falls off ( it actually did ).



1566 Drvrs Dr Panel-Armrest-Clean-Paint

The Pocket location is really 'printed' on the carpet. Cleaning will help hide a lot of this. Paint would too.
And if you are mounting door speakers and considering cutting a hole adjacent to the sheet metal under it ...
- some of the Pocket screw holes may get cut out anyway.



1568 Drvrs Dr Panel-pocket reposition

Sorry kinda' fuzzy informal shot just to show location of possible move.
Of course, lining up with the door sheet metal governs where the Panel is cut.

I promise a better photo when clean & tidy.


Now back to that crappy Linkage...



Mike

[sixsix]

About time for something like an update or progress... something. The Driver Dr is essentially done, but we want to clean the dr panel and fix up it's lower carpet before putting it back on.
No sense cleaning it while the Pass Dr is still needing some TLC. So... on to the other door panel.


1700 Pass Dr work area 5

Well, that pic took 1/2 hr - learning how to use photoshop ( ' PS ' from here out ) and how to realize just how feeble - minded we are I am... really

The heck w/ the arrow heads.


Anyway - door card cleaning is one thing. Like the other door - all the mechanicals cleaned and lubed, window motor pulled out and resistor/CB/bimetal shut off gizmo defeated, insulation, oil, silicone, sound atten. crap, etc, etc.

Here's what I did on the other door:
https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.p ... 0#p1412570

[sixsix]

There are 3 'items' to remove from the door panel/card before it can be pulled out and lifted off the door.
But before discussing them ad nauseam, just wanted to show a little progress I made in PS Elements 19 ( PSE ).

- The online help and/or manual(s) suck - searching is worse than this forum's search engine/procedure/results strategies.
- w/o any setup / property / option work, the Layer system sucks. But again, I'm a newbie!!
- Saving files in anything but Element's native format/ext/PSD-PDD is a major undertaking, even after having just saved.
- One would think the 'Pencil' tool to have more power, but no... have to select 'Rectangle' to get a 'Line' tool.
- And of course, there is an 'Arrowhead' thingie that you can attach to said 'Line'.

I'll learn...

Anyway,


1702 Pass Dr stains 5

Coke stains from the Big Gulp that fell into the Pass. mat and footwell 20 years ago. No gasping in horror... I had to go into work after lunch.

In this pic, I only used the 'Pencil' tool and the Shift key to force them hor. or vert., then zoomed and simply added the pixels for the arrowhead. There are some fine graphics and symbols to use - I will work w/ them later.

Simple text I put on a new Layer and while active, I draw a line or this scenario: draw a line on an active Layer, then while it is still active, I select Text and type in "COKE STAINS". But it ended up setting up an entirely new Layer called "COKE STAINS".
And every time I selected T for a new line of Text, it set up another new Layer called ... 'whatever I typed just then'.

To make matters worse - there does not seem to be any way to combine data on differing Layers ... easily.
This is definitely not Autocad, Draftsight or Inventor or 10-15 other eng'g./drafting apps or progs. I have used extensively or simply tried.


Next we discuss those 3 things keeping that pesky Interior Panel on the door frame.

[sixsix]

I started taking things off the door at the top, so the Arm Rest is 1st - (2) T20 torx screws down in the handle well.

Top Tip: If you leave the Window down a lot - put a dab of Silicone on the screws when you put them back in.
- - - - - - - Keep that rust out - seal those 'Finger Well' cracks too. One day after work, this side was full to the top.


1705 Pass Dr arm rest-T20

1706 Pass Dr arm rest support rust.JPG (185.41 KiB) Viewed 1294 times

The 'surface' rust is from the steel inside the Arm Rest itself, not the hardened spring steel Support / Integral Door Reinforcement Structure.

While the Arm Rests are a rather mundane topic, I insist on posting more pics and information about them later.
I have some beauty shots ... and there is more to removal than those wimpazz screws.


Well, onto the plastic Door Handle/Window/Lock Trim Plate.
If you had not already done so - NOW is the time to Disconnect the Battery.


1708 Pass Dr trim plate 2

Since I had the other door's Plate off - easy to see the loc. of the (7) Retainers ( in yellow ) and a few Locators ( in red ).
The Plate is rather stout, but care s/b taken by using a thin 'protected tip' putty knife or store bought tool.
The retainers 'give way' fairly easy after about a 1/4" pull.


1710 Pass Dr trim plate 5

It's not going to just fall apart - the Window/Lock harness is still holding it tight. The Window connector is held w/ a finger tight blue ret'r.-style nut. The Lock Conn. does not use a nut, but both can be rolled off the pins with the tip of a std. screwdriver. These connectors are similar in oper. to the Seat Electrics.

Top Tip: The blue nut is required to fall and disappear.
- - - - - - - and/or get run thru a load of wash and be caught in the drier sealing gasket for a few loads... " HONEEEEY "...

1712 Pass Dr trim plate off.JPG
This pic shows the Retainers go into the Vinyl door Panel and others push into the Lock/Handle Plate.


Lastly - the only Screw still holding the Door Panel - T20 torx - found under the Arm Rest.


1713 Pass Dr Panel screw 2

Now all that's left is to pull the Vinyl door panel away from the Frame using a safe 'Interior Trim Removal' tool. As I mentioned earlier, even a homemade tool will work if it is protected from scratching, cutting, etc.
With the (10) vinyl 'xmas tree' retainers freed up, the entire Door Panel is simply lifted out of the Window Sill.
Of course, I will be discussing the Panel removal at length later.

Next post will look at the Arm Rest and the back side of the Door Panel as well as the Retainer condition... "To reuse or Not"

[sixsix]

The Arm Rest and the unseen Support to which it's attached on each door provide for additional integrity and side impact resistance.
While later models included side impact 'beams' and engineered crumple/impact areas.

Gen I Vans have strong Arm Rests.


1718 Pass Dr Arm rest lift
Meant to get these pics before removing the Panel.
Also, In reality, I grabbed the Arm Rest w/ the other hand and popped it's Retainer out of the slot w/ a 'protected' putty knife. It is a tough ret'r./Asshole ( technical term ).



1715 Pass Dr Retr slots 2
Here you see the Ret'r. Slot on the horiz. area and one of the (2) locator slots on the vert. area.



1720 Pass Dr Arm rest Ret'r
Once the Arm Rest is started up and out, pulling up w/ both thumbs like the 1st pic will 'roll' the vert. area Locs./Retainers out.

The other door - it's (2) Vertical Locator/Ret'rs. were bent down the wrong way from when I worked on it last.



1722 Pass Dr Arm rest Loc'r.
So... GM really did not want this Arm Rest going anywhere.



1723 Pass Dr Arm rest Pair 1
Beauty Shot Alert, both Arm Rests spotted on the work bench - not sure what happened to the (2) Driver's side Locator rubber/vinyl/plastic bits.
Imagine... "Unprotected Locating" going on in there - all willy nilly...



1725 Pass Dr Arm rest Pair 2
Here are the (3) Retainers and Locators.
These would be hard to repair and they are hard to find, much less finding one in better shape than the one you have.
I remember seeing a few posts/threads here dealing w/ vinyl repair & tape methods.


Still Fooling around with PSE and the Door Panel & Frame pics.


Here's M!ke with a word...

Granted it's been awhile but....wouldn't coke stains be white?
-M!ke-

[sixsix]

Time to use the Interior Trim Removal Tool and a couple hands to remove the Pass. Dr. Panel.


1727 Pass Dr panel ret'rs
Looking at the arrows, the Red ones point to the (3) Retainers that stayed w/ the Panel like they should. The Yellow ones (7) all stayed in the door. I intend to replace all of them on all our doors, but they really are reusable. There are some that don't fool w/ them and just run a few screws in here and there. Good Luck w/ that.

I will discuss those little xmas tree ret'rs. a little more later on.

The way I removed this panel, already knowing where the ret'rs. were, I just pulled it away from the door w/ one hand while wedging my protected long trim tool to pop them out. Most did not need much persuasion or the tool.

Then while grasping on the sides w/ both hands, clearing the plastic Lock/Handle Plate, recheck that very top ret'r. again.
Now rock the panel's top lip side to side and up & off the sheet metal window frame. Nope, no video or pics.



1729 Pass Dr panel foam
Must be some special foam here. It is pliable, like new, yet discolored. ALL other foam found on The Van has been broken down powder weird plastic reformulation ( hdliner, a/c duct work, int. panel joinery, speakers, etc, etc )

Lucky here - this panel, save for the stains, seems like new. I think it has only been off once before. The Driver's has been off 4-5 times. But it is not in bad condition overall. I also noticed the 99% Good GM Vinyl Panel also has some reinforcement metal where the retainers and some screws go into.



1732 Pass Dr panel off
Here you see the Door's 'underwear' / Paper with some stains, white Retainers stuck everywhere, tape.
Arm Rest Support, elec. lines, Lock/Handle Plate... note all these Locations. I forgot how the lines were the 1st time on the other door and the Locks were bound. I dunno'...

Here's a few closer-ups:


1734 Pass Dr frame top
Note the crapped out glob of insul/sound dead. from the factory. Every one of these I have come across has looked about the same.



1737 Pass Dr frame mid
I point to a couple of the Retainer locations w/ some lines and arrowheads on one end - these work great and can be constrained. ( and you know... nothing beats a constrained line )

But, see that Red Circle...? Not so 'nice n' easy'. Somehow choosing an "elliptical marquee" did not seem or end up being so intuitive. Once placed or a few placed, then edit/stroke was used for the circle details.



1740 Pass Dr frame bot
Not much here 'cept the rest of the Retainers or the holes, some tape locations, prolly not factory as they used mostly a 'hot glue' setup to hold the paper on.

I will try and get some pics of the top of the Door panel where it curves around the top forming the Window wipe.
As well as better shots of the top frame where the Panel 'clips down'.

And as promised, a boring diatribe about those Retainers.

[sixsix]

A few more details and step-by-step Gen I Passenger Dr. tear down, upgrade, repair & rebuild.
If you have a question or suggestion or a need of a better or different pic, let me know.

First thing First...


1741 Pass Dr Topsoil Orig
Remember the "Bags of Mulch" - you don't remember how many times I walked around them, stubbed into them or closed the door to get around the POS/SOBs - cuz I couldn't believe how many times I went that way...




1742 Pass Dr Topsoil Move
Brainiac that I am, I muttered to myself after the 302nd time bumping around the arrangement.

Here I display my indulgent, prodigious PSE skills - what with the 'Action Arrow' using special affects-like movement perspective.

Used "Auto Selection" and the "Magic Wand" and the stretchy box for the "action image affect".
... and "Refine Edge" / "Add" feature.
Worked with the selection tolerance for refining my edge ( we can all use some a' dat ) Used the "Clone Stamp" to clean up some selections.

Still have not gotten Layers, drawing multiple objects on one layer ( all text or all added graphics ).
There is no "Layer Manager" here like AutoCad.



1745 Pass lock hndl plate
So, moving on to the Lock / Handle Plate, held on w/ (4) M10 screws and, indirectly, a metal Rod Retainer in the Lock Rod Lever.



1747 Pass spd hndl 10mm
Last time you saw a Speed Handle action shot?



1749 Pass Dr lock rod retr
Some people, like me, used to have "A Fit" with these "Devil Incarnate" hardened Retainers that disappear at will and refuse all Verbal Commands, be they scathing, delicate, loud, verbose or longshoremanesque. There is no "catch'em with honey" crap here, boy...

Here. I point to God's redemption, a Retainer release button.

WHOA



1752 Pass lock retr off
Might take both hands here ( wink, wink ). While pushing the Release Button, push the Retainer off the Lever.
Then, hold the Lever w/ one hand and with the other, push the Rod out of the Retainer and Lever.

Watch were the Retainer seems to hide - get a magnet on a stick ready.



1755 Pass plate hndl rot
While pulling / holding the handle out in the 'Open' position, twist / pull the Plate out on the right side.



1757 Pass plate rod rot
Here, I am ready to slide. I simply 'swing' the Plate up from the bottom, while watching the Rod.
Plate then simply slides off the Rod.



1760 Pass Dr paper left
All that's left is the paper - no Fat Ladies round these here parts.



1762 Pass lock hndl plt 2
Here the Lock Button slider is pulled from the Lock Lever Pin. There was no retainer, it just sat there under something else later.


Well, that's all I have for a second, till I get a few more Pics.

[sixsix]

Getting on w/ the door disassembly, the rest of the door coverings come off.


1774 Pass Mirror - Insul
Both doors had a blob of sagging Deadening/Insul Tar paper covering the Mirror access cavity. Also Circled the (3) nuts for removing the Assy. and there's the connector for the Power Motor.



1778 Pass Door OEM tape
Nothing beats 28 year old duct tape - both doors originally had 5 pieces of this black stuff holding the wiring or in a few spots, holding the door paper/water barrier/whatever on.

In the world of V8, Transfer Cases, Raptor, Camping, Stealth Lifestyles...
- Here we have humble tape.



1780 Pass wire mtr rivets
Used for visual reassy. ref - tape locations, wire retainer pokey inny thingies, routings and glue stick lines.
Rivets for Motor Only Removal noted w/ circles ( one hidden - 5/32 alum POSs ).



1782 Pass wndw tape prot
Just a few things to do before popping the rivets or removing the bolts that hold the Motor.
Tape up the Window, especially if removing the Regulator
With the Window up - most of the tension will out of the Regulator Spring Windup, so the Motor R&R itself is easy.

Also, some protection from falling parts works great in the Top of the Outer Skin Reinforcing Rib and Laying down in the bottom of the Door. Pics follow.

TOP TIP: I used a bit of paper under the tape over the paint so it doesn't hang on to it w/o a solvent.



1784 Pass window clamp
I was not sure if the Regulator Spring would move or not, so I stabilized it w/ a clamp and a socket inside to keep from crushing stuff.
Top arrow points to faintly visible gear teeth.
2nd arrow down - the socket I stuck in there.
Circled is the sheet metal we ground out to be able to use the Craftsman "BigHeaded" Rivet Gun decades ago.



1786 Pass wndw reg'r
Motor out, old grease to clean up and Wiring Harness to get out of the way.

OEM Steel Core Rotary Regulator Rivets at the top visible - I believe they are 1/4 and require some special tool.
Seems someone mentioned it when we worked on the driver side.



1788 Pass armrest rivets
On w/ the rest of the Door Tour - removing the bottom (2) rivets of the Armrest, to get at the (2) Rods.

Will be insulating the Rt. Angle Lock Lever ( circled ) Fingers and the Rod itself for some quieting and slop removal.
Also made note of the OEM Tape Locales and Retainer Hangouts.



1791 Pass Door bottom
Always staying safe - Jack Stands, of course. Wouldn't think of working on the door bottom w/o.

No Rust anywhere - WooHoo!!



1793 Pass latch rods
Better look at the Rt. Angle dohickie and the Latch that is coming out for some cleaning, a Blowjob and exercise.
( couldn't we all use somadat )

I had not planned to remove the Outside Handle or the Lock Motor Assy. Unless they give me a hassle when finishing the other side - smooth, quick operation not needing 2-3 hits to get them all.


Tomorrow... we'll talk about paper and tape and Stuff.
Oh, and we'll tear into the Mystery Motor and it's well-protected nefarious Consorts.

Here's a tease:

[augidog]

Really impressive posting, sixsix...do all the door/motor details apply to my 95 as well?

[sixsix]

Really impressive posting, sixsix...do all the door/motor details apply to my 95 as well?

Thanks. Your '95 has Gen I interior, if I recall correctly - so yes. Hope I picked a big enuff limb to go out on...
On the other hand, Gen II, is another story, where only the outside handle and electrical end effectors remain.

Maybe.

IE: There may be some diffs in the motor itself, like the CBs I refer to above.
And of course, there is always RA or catalogs of part numbers or the like to verify it all.

[sixsix]

Back to the Paper. Gen I Vans have a very simple liner paper or water barrier or who knows why they used it.
I have seen it in so many variety of automotive and machine tool applications.


1797 Pass Paper repair
Uh oh, the Paper is torn in a couple spots. We repaired one of them decades back.
I was careful when working it off the door, so as to not make things worse. Cuz ... that would be bad.



1799 Pass old new tape
Knowing even if it's trite and cliche', we love our pics.

Tough decision here: Gorilla or Duck.
I will make a corporate decision as to which one to use - the stronger one or the one that "Matches Up Best".



1801 Pass Door Pts tools
Door Parts and some tools - about the only ones missing are the 10mm speedhandle and the trim removal tool ( aka Small and skinny Trm. Rmvl. Tl. )
I found that key at the bottom of the Driver Door. Last Year



1805 Pass Door protection
Learned my lesson working on the other door.
Those edges are sorta', well, for the avg. guy, no prob.
I can drop a tissue on my arm and get a bruise.

These are industrial Bandsaw Blade protectors for shipping. They are nearly identical, coming from Starrett / red and DoAll / clear - but the clear one has a larger throat opening, seems to 'fit' better, just not as tight.
I'll be leaving them on when finished.



1803 Pass Door 4 things
- got my 'arm protection' on
- you can see the spray on deadening that all doors have on them - I have seen it 'spritzed' here & there on the side sheet metal too. GM's cost saving sound deadening, I guess.
- Rag stuffed into the top of the 'Door Reinforcement Dohickie' just to catch rivet junk and anything that "Old Clumsy" can simply forget he's holding.
- Door Reinforcement Dohickie - probably not gonna' save your hips in full-on side intrusion vs some idiot-driven SUV.
It is just glued on w/ those epoxy globs you see at the bottom.

Not that I have anything against epoxy blobs, goodness knows I 'have become one' w/ many of them we have found.
Like that weird one in the ceiling from 4 years back - we never did figure it out. Scorpion Nest or seismic anomaly result.



1807 Pass Door pts catch
Cleaned out old rivet heads and "I don't want to know what it is" kinda stuff in the bottom down there.
Laid in a cloth pad to catch allllll the crap and the tools and fasteners 12 times while working on the inside.

Can you tell, I learned a few lessons on the 'other side' - I hope to remember maybe 1 or 2 of them.



1810 Pass Door Motor
The (3) tabs need to be bent out w/ needlenose or sharp point pliers - the flange itself may need fussing with as you use a screwdriver and large hammer to pound to wedge it as you say prayers you don't jab the driver thru your wrist.

If you have the Elec Conn. up in the Air like this.
And you pull the white part out of the Motor housing.
Small parts ( springs & brushes ) will go tinkling around w/ very few staying in the motor housing or cap itself.

Check under the dead center of The Van, even if 40 feet away.

My suggestion - once the caucasian part ( Brush Holder ) is loose, hold the Motor-'Gear Up', while pulling the Brush Holder out.
Maybe do it in the bath tub or in a paper bag.

Any other ideas?



1812 Pass Door Motor 2
Here's where our Motor was - 2 or 3 farvells fell down into the Motor, but no biggee, grabbed it/them w/ some needlenose.



1815 Pass Door mtr cap
I never did figure a way to get this Black Protective Cap off the Brush Holder / White POS.
Without destroying the pin or maybe reusing the pin... not happening.
Just manhandle it w/ a screwdriver, pliers, torch ( not ), wedge, needlenose, knife , small hd screwdriver, and a razor blade to slit my wrists... crissakes.

I point to where there was some kind of pin going into the top, but who knows.
Should look pretty obvious how I will glue it back on. Just like the other side... Black goop here n' there ... ... good to go.



1817 Pass Door mtr brushs
Wanted to include a shot of the small parts that are anti magnetic, anti gravity, anti surveillance and anti found.
LOL ( not really - took 2 days )



1772 Pass Door Motor CB
And here again - the reason I tore into the door to begin with.
If you can see where the Bimetal Strip is hinged ( red arrow ) and where it ends.
Both need to be soldered or a strip of some sort soldered in.


Driver's Door Stuff

1368 Drvr Dr Motor-Bearing points Cap-CB-Brushes


1369 Drvr Dr Motor-Bearing-CB-points strip

Looked like a set of points we used to have on the Distributor back in the day...


Some "Others" Motor's Circuit Breaker / Bi-Metal, and Electronic power cutoff

1371 Drvr Dr Motor Bearing Cap-New CB Strip

Someone posted this - very similar to this door I am working on.



1372 Drvr Dr Motor Bearing Cap-New 2002 resistor

Some sort of Electronic Gizmo dipped in plastic - coming from some factory in China, I am sure...
Whoever sent it to me, said they could hear something in there and of course, the window stopped.
He said he just soldered a wire in place of it - VOILA' workee, workee.


NOW: THE DISCLAIMER: Don't Lay on the Button once it is all the way up or down. You could kick out a fuse , some other CB somewhere else or burn the Motor, Door, or Lose The Entire Van with all your worldly possessions in there.

Just Saying. The Motor is very cheap to buy brand new. I am just cheaper. And I will pass the word on if I EVER sell The Van to someone else.

[WoodButcher]

1801 Pass Door Pts tools
Door Parts and some tools - about the only ones missing are the 10mm speedhandle and the trim removal tool ( aka Small and skinny Trm. Rmvl. Tl. )
I found that key at the bottom of the Driver Door. Last Year

What's the deal? did you drop that key into the passenger door to re-live prior treasure finds or just for safe keeping in case you were locked out?

Sorry Mike, I can't help w/ the speed wrench or the small 'n skinny, maybe in the driver's side? you haven't done the dutch or side have you?

[Rod's Trucks]

GREAT Photos and explanations.
Keep up the good work...some day you will get it all back together...just don't drive over the bags of mulch on the way out the door!
Rod J