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Mike's 1992 Astro Resurrection / Bucket List

97K views 572 replies 36 participants last post by  sixsix 
#1 ·
Well... more of a "Rebirth" or "Return"... to the Van my wife and I enjoyed driving Out West back in 95'. I really owe it to this tired old vehicle to "Make it feel right again".

Don't get me wrong - it is still driveable - Xmas trees, pallets of sod, 7 family members, GAP outlet store runs, who needs to go where and with what? , etc, etc, etc... But, I can't put these off for too long much longer. The other car ( 2006 Altima SE ) is finally out of the shop and trustworthy enough to take the van "out of service" for an extended period.

I have till August 2015 ( Whew, hope it doesn't take THAT long ). We are planning a trip to Sturgis 75th Anniv. and points west with my wife's sister and her husband ( who are "Harley Davidson aficionados" ). They will be driving another van ( brand X ) and pulling their bikes on a trailer. Wife and I will help with pulling "The Toys".

Need to do / Things to do / Want to do

1) JY Fuel door release - Lever flops around - Cable end still intact - Latch still works
- update: still need OEM lever from JY, but was able to temp. repair the cable end/lever capture point.

2) JY Replace headliner / repair / visors - loose - entire - front to back - deadening - insulation

3) JY Engine fan clutch OR Electric fan & relay conversion

4) Cruise control not working - check all vacuum fittings and hoses - elecs. & servo system

5) Heater / A/C vent controls selector - chk. vacuum system - JY replacement dash control unit

6) Hard idle - in gear

7) Electric door locks balky

8) JY Windows slow - one slows the other

9) Bad Ground - in dash?

10) Ammeter bounces with blinker

11) Engine elec. / Alternator noise thru stereo - AM - need RADIO GROUND TO METAL

12) Shocks - all four - would like smooth "cushy ride" OEM style

13) Body - Frame mounts / bushings - noisy over bumps

14) Stereo / amp. refurbish - heat - cavity in heater duct - wiring - door speakers/subs - insulation/deadening

15) Sliding door / bearings / clean / grease

16) Door seals - silicone

17) Interior panels / Carpet cleaning

18) JY Seat belt latch covers - plastic shroud

19) OEM Reese hitch ball carrier and locking retainer pin - ball set - offset? - extender?

20) Trailer wiring harness - permanent? - routing to plug - hideaway / swing up

21) Dents - minor above l.r. wheel & on sliding door/r.r. wheel well

22) Fog lights get working / rework - reseal - mechanical and elec.

23) JY Glove compartment release broken - 2nd time

24) Complete chassis lube

25) Steering / suspension component / bushings check

26) JY Rear stabilizer bar & related parts - JY?

27) Sound proofing, deadening, insulation

28) GAS MILEAGE issues - emissions systems, cat, exhaust

29) PERFORMANCE issues - head & intake work, cam, CAI - CPI vs TBI

Yes - have quite a bit to do. They are in some sort of order - starting with my/it's most immediate needs and I realize that some will be taken care with others as one item is fixed. IE: 7) door locks balky, 8) Windows slow or never, 9) Bad Ground issues, 10) Ammeter bounces and 11) Alternator noise thru stereo will probably tie together to some degree.

As will 2) Hdliner, 14) stereo, door spkrs. & insulation, 15) Sliding door, 16) Door seals, 17) Interior panels / Carpet cleaning and 27) Sound proofing, etc. will be taken care of concurrently.

Vacuum issues the same... 4) Cruise and 5) A/C controls

I will be referring to these items under the #)s assigned and will do my best to take as many GOOD photos as I can - PROMISE. Scouts Honor? Now - onto the Headliner...

Mike
 
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#352 ·
sixsix said:
- Enjoying, Reading, Writing, Laughing, Crying, Screaming, Threatening and Begging of our Astros and Safaris.

Because they are Family !!
Yes you are, and human too.
In my eyes there ain't enough of that today.

:eek:bscene-drinkingcheers:
Here's to you and me
and all that agree,

to those that don't?

well,,,,

:eek:bscene-buttred:
 
#353 ·
History Lesson...

Some time back, I retrofitted a '98 OH Console, along with new Headliner, late model Visors, etc, etc.
Trying to modernize the Gen I Interior, the Console has Homelink, which has worked fine.
It will handle 2 garage doors and a Homelink Module ( we have one for entry way lights ).



The 15 year old "Overhead Door" opener's Remotes finally gave up the alkaline/lithium Ghosts.
Stupid things used those "You can't buy Those in this State" batteries.

Finally went to Lowes and got a couple remote whatzits...
Gotta' be able to get The Van out, so...

DSCF5365.JPG
Both units from Chamberlain spread out.
These are "Learning Units" - so there's no dip switch setup crap - which back in the day worked fine.
Now we just point, push and press the whatzit button on the Opener.

Same way the Homelink openers work and easy enough.

DSCF5366.JPG
Just above the unit - you see 2 screws.
Brainiac that I am - I mount it as high in the corner out of elements as I can.
Unfortunate - can't open the cover.

2nd Try:

DSCF5367.JPG
Cover opens Just Fine now.
Stainless screws marking my flub-a-dub for eternity.

DSCF5368.JPG
Hand held Remote Action Shot
Nice to not have to reprogram the Homelink each time I disconnect the Battery.

So... why don't I use the "Battery Tender Gadget" I got years back? It was all of $4.99 at Frightening Harbor.
Kinda' Leery, ya know...always wondered if it was going to "Eat Up" my $130 Battery Power Investment.
 
#354 ·
* NEW BANACEK !! *

Been fiddling with Interior work so long, while trying to keep it DD... be it ever so humble.
Naked door insides n' all.

So - here's what I did - no real revelation, but works fine.


w0 DSCF5415
I made 2 of these boards for tools on the seat. One has a towel, the other a scrap of carpet fastened.
Helps keeps things from rolling & holds my mag dish - after wrapping a piece of 2x4 attached underneath ( mod A2 ).
Comes out real quick w/ the 2 lights, ext. cord and thermos/lunch box holder.

Sorry about the eye strain - it is a 1st for me ( not caring what a pic looks like - "...they'll knowwutImean" ).

Here's a trick I learned from Mayflower / United Movers - rolls of sticky plastic floor/carpet protector.
Great when fooling with the dog house / distr, RR eng. work, etc.
'need to wrap a girlfriend/wife?'

18-24" wide, real sticky, stays put and a few layers proved to be "Worry-Free".
Was cheap at L0wes, HD, the movers, etc.

If I find a roll left over, I'll post a pic.

So - we had to make some flower, mulch and dirt runs this year. No TVs or Kitchen / Bath / Pellets.
But we did go get a New Wheelbarrow... our 20 yr old True Temper finally gave it up.
I had considered a Full Concours' Restoration, but the parts were more than a new one.
And "Wheelbarrow Resellers" is advising against any new 'Barrow' listings... drat !!?


w1 DSCF5412
An official L0wes POS - in a word, not sturdy enough, steel cross-sectional lightwgt. Wood feels like chopsticks.
... aha - sensing a foreign intervention.

Would not comfortably or safely carry the weight the tub was sized/designed for.
And while the hardware was tight, not a one was centered into its square flange / carriage bolt hole.

I did not figure to be moving 200-300 lb loads of pea gravel or tons of deck lumber any more.
I figured... I'll loosen, center and tighten the bolts and nuts - check it all out.
Figured it would fit our flowers, mulch and lawn tool chore reqs.
When I first went to move it, the front cross pc. dug in ... already, had to hunch over.
Jeannie wheeled it to The Van originally - 5' 5" vs 6' 6".

All the Bolts were so tight and the nuts run down onto the shank.
Could not effectively loosen ANYTHING w/o dinging it up pretty bad.
I was astonished - NOT.

Then Jeannie says, "That looks so wimpy compared to the old one".
Before she had gotten out "wim... , It was in The Van again and I was heading to the Courthhouse in Independence.
Not to file a Wheelbarrow suit or anything, but to register The Van and our '06 Altima.

Mike and Randy 8-17-20.jpg
Mike and Randy 8-17-20
Randy on the right, their Blue Vanny in the background - takes a simple selfie.

Swing by L0wes on the way back off 275 & 75.

Courthouse is closed... WTF... after all this time... most everything is open, masks not mandated.
so... swing by Randy's place on the way back to 275 to check out his new construction and engine project.
Hadn't been over since before Armacovidgeddon. I know no one that stays busier than Randy.
Never Stops. ahhh, to be fifties again...

Anyway, I drop off the POS at the return desk - I can't believe I handed them $55 for it - 20 years ago , a much better one sold for $35 at the Do it Center.

Went back out into the garden yard, looked at the other models and which came as a kit.
Watched the untrained monkey backpacker woman-bun idiot that assembles their stuff...
Skin n' bones, 4 color hair, but not traditionally coloured, hot pants...
- 3xlt flannel shirt ( heat that day: "center of the sun" ).

"I jess grab da head wit these grippers and muh can a nuts ... no time, paid by the piece."
and "To me, imporant is the piece bonus." IMPORANT ?

I loaded the Blue Wheelbarrow kit onto the cart and watched her like a train wreck for about 15 minutes.


w2 DSCF5419
Quite the size difference sitting in there compared to above.


w8 DSCF5417
Of course there are no instructions - not in this one or any of them - I checked.
There were 4 drawings printed on the 2 flaps showing parts and side views... OK.


w9 DSCF5420

This is more like it - same size and weight as the old one - this one $85 - but I do feel it's worth it.
A beast, powder coat and a strong bond, heavy, good definition, metalflake too.
Run flat non-Goodyear solid tire, mag like spoke, 5/8" chromed axle, metal handles w/ rubbber inserts.
Heavy, formed angular steel construction, SS 5/16-18 fasteners.

Actually, it's too nice to use - gonna' have to buy a shed now, get a coat of wax on it, insurance...
We'll see tomorrow. LOL

:sleep: :sleep: :sleep: :sleep:
 
#356 ·
WoodButcher said:
Bought the "sport" model I see, don't tell the ins agent what's under the hood. You'll never get ins. for it!
LOL

Yeah, Woody, none of those 2 wheel 'gentleman rancher' models for this dude.
...'sides, L0wes does not sell a high end "Body Carrier". And... no chrome options to be found...

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
 
#358 ·
sixsix said:

w8 DSCF5417

w9 DSCF5420

This is more like it - same size and weight as the old one - this one $85 - but I do feel it's worth it.
A beast, powder coat and a strong bond, heavy, good definition, metalflake too.
Run flat non-Goodyear solid tire, mag like spoke, 5/8" chromed axle, metal handles w/ rubbber inserts.
Heavy, formed angular steel construction, SS 5/16-18 fasteners.

Actually, it's too nice to use - gonna' have to buy a shed now, get a coat of wax on it, insurance...
hi mike,
that looks like what the LKQ junkyards here in denver have for customer use out in their yards - i've put a least a couple of miles on theirs while wandering around - even absolutely beat to crap they keep on rolling - i'll send you a pic or 2 for fun next time i go for a parts run. :happy-cheerleadersmileygirl:
 
#359 ·
True that !! - Thing is an absolute Beast, thanks for laughing along.

Yeah, our local one here has them also, gardening type carts and engine puller stuff - free.
And... $2 cover gets you as many cross-ref questions as you can stand or remember.
 
#360 ·
Thanks for the build Mike, was very informative.... sound proofed my doors earlier this year, this site has been very helpful for all the things I've done either because I had to or wanted too; and thinking maybe we all should get rid of our cell phones, might make life a little easier.
 
#361 ·
Astroratsun said:
Thanks for the build Mike, was very informative.... sound proofed my doors earlier this year, this site has been very helpful for all the things I've done either because I had to or wanted too; and thinking maybe we all should get rid of our cell phones, might make life a little easier.
I Appreciate the notice - Here's to wishing I had more Gen II stuff for X-ref.

This web site is the Best Resource and has helped me, too - cuz' it's nice when a plan comes together.
 
#362 ·
When we left off, I had cleaned up the Passenger Window Motor End Cap, Bushing & Brush Holder.

Again - I have more time than anything and would gladly have changed the Motor out altogether.
If it even "Thinks about Fooling Around" - out it comes ...
- and a Brand New Augi / Malaysian/Chinese/Taiwan/Mexico Special goes in.

Like the Driver's side, it seemed to be slowing down, but not stopping completely & it works fine & quiet.
I Soldered both ends of it's Bi-metal Circuit Breaker.
This CB is a slow blow auto-resetting type for when an up/dn button is held too long.
A slow, tired motor with plenty bits of life left ( not unlike myself... sorta' ) or dirty tracks, need for clean & grease or any number of items that will tax the Motor a bit.

I removed a glob of solder, smoothed things out on both sides - managed to not melt too much Nylon.


1882 End Cap Cleanup - cont chk
One thing I forgot to check was the continuity of the soldered ends - one end is hinged slightly.
Wrung out just fine - hating the chirping pos meter. Good meter, orange chirp bad.

After looking at the piece of Work Augi got, thought I would post up my own "Window Motor Glamour Set".


1884 Motor view back overall


1886 Motor view back Delco close


1887 Motor view front gear close


1888 Motor view front overall

The goal from here on is, like the Driver's side, clean, sound deaden, lube, grease, etc.
I will be looking for a method of removing the Latch mechanism ...
- w/o removing Every Single Thing Left in there, Handle, Lock and their rods and retainers.

Here's 3 pics for ref just before the Motor and Wiring was removed/moved:


1890 Pass Rod Locations Foam pad
Yellow - "Intact Foam Pad w/ Plastic Facing" still pliable and capable of it's intended purpose... QUIET.
Red - points to real bear of a Rod Retainer that is hidden behind the Handle lever.


1891 Pass Rods Arm Rest Lock module
Red - two bottom Arm Rest rivets - Instead of drilling, I punched the steel center out with an 1/8" drift.
Then used a "Cold Chisel" to blast thru the alum rivet.


1893 Pass Latch - Access Hole
Latch Mechanism is by far, the grimiest part of the Door.
Still considering drilling an access hole for the Top Door Handle Nut R&R.
Red arrow - Lock Rod still in Lever. Bottom Rod ( Handle ) has a area of blue spray paint for ID.
Yellow is the tip of the Lock Module.

We'll get the rest apart tomorrow
 
#364 ·
chevymaher said:
It will last forever once your done.
Ha, ha - just what I need... something else that will live past me.

Back to the Passenger Door:


1895 Pass Rivets Rods off Lock Off
The Rods need to come out from behind the Arm Rest Support and from the top "Capture Fingers" of the Lever.
Actuator Rod removed from the Lock Lever to keep it from moving around. I am leaving the Lock Module in there, if not in the way.


1895 Pass Rivets Rods off Lock Off

Finally figured it out - the weird difference: When I click on the 2nd Pic and + to enlarge - it goes to a small long box at the top of the page

I always wondered what the difference was in some of the uploaded files and how they are displayed, selected and enlarged.
The First one is directly from the Album View with the Large Pic in the middle and the previous and next pic shown in the upper corners.
The Second Pic above is from Selecting, then enlarging it by hitting the little ( nearly invisible ) boxed "Plus Sign" in the top left corner.
In both cases, Rt. Clicked on pic, then chose "Copy image address".
All my Album pics are posted with the feature.

Since I am on the topic of Posted or Attached Photos - there does not seem to be much consistency in uploaded attach files.
Some you see a title, some not, some show up in "quote", some do not.
The "Attach" feature has to be one of the most frustrating features offered by the site.
Lacks intuition and professionalism.

But... like that uncle no one wants to be around, but he takes care of aunt honey ok...
- we have UPLOAD ATTACHMENT and enjoy the tor(ment and ture) everytime we use and recommend it.

On to the rest:

[img]https://www.astrosafari.com/gallery/image.php?mode=medium&album_id=11938&image_id=102570
1897 Pass Rods and Swivel Guides Arm Rest
Previous pic showed the Rods hanging down from the Foam Pad and out of the Lock Lever.
Yellow Arrows - Under the Arm Rest Support are two "Rotating Rod Guides".
A decent amount of pull is req'd. to pop these out of the fingers.
They help keep Rod Flop Noise ( also a local garage band here ) down.


1900 Pass Door Lock cyl and Handle Bot
Being ready to start pulling stuff out - here is the view of the back end of the Lock Cylinder.
Red Arrow - Trying to remember which is the easier to do - pull off the usual metal Rod Retainer ...
- or the Cyl. Lever on the inside/back of the Lock Cyl.
Yellow - that is the Bottom bolt/nut of the Outside Handle. 3.25/3.5" ( cannot recall ) up is the other one.

Wondering if I can pull the Lock Cyl. Retainer keeping it in the Door will allow me to pull a retainer easier from the outside than trying to do it from this position using my Rt. or Left hand - the ambidextrous one here is saying...


1899 Pass Door needs a major steam clean
Well, the area covering the Mirror elecs and 2 of the 3 fasteners needs a new piece of sound deadener.
Steam Clean... well, maybe not, but a good scrubbing and alcohol prep is in order.

I live in a country that feels comfortable advertising a 1908 $20 Gold Piece Saint Gaudens "No Motto" coin for over $3400.
THEN CHARGE Shipping & Handling EXTRA.

Well, the Door... next we pull the Door Latch Mechanism, then dunk, blow and grease the Bad Girl.
 
#365 ·
Last we looked - I labeled the Lock Cylinder and looked at either removing the Retainer for the Lock Rod ...
- or remove the "Strange" UNK retainer on the end of the Cylinder that holds the Lever on.


1901 Pass Door Lock Cyl Retainer
This heavy gauge, overtly strong, stubborn 28 year old gal in the Blue Arrow Outfit...
Yeah, we had words, mostly from me... mostly never heard on earth.

Seemed there was a "push the rnd tab, press back on tips"... routine, but left hand / arm would not work as well or fast.
Right arm inside / on Driver's door - not so bad. This side took small vise grips on the pointed to tab & prying back.
Screwdriver pushing the 1 end tab I could get to. Holding one leg up, etc, etc.

I really would like to change sides with the Lock Cylinder from the Driver's side.


1902 Pass Handle Nuts & Latch
The bottom 10mm nut is easy - straight thru the 1" covered access hole.
3.375" up is the other one - not much clearance to work with ...
- if you have not drilled a 1" ( or so ) hole to access it with a socket.
I do not own a 10mm ratcheting box wrench, but THAT would have DEFINITELY made this job easier.


1904 Pass Handle Upper Nut & Latch
I remembered from the other door - If I pulled the 3 screws...
- the Latch mech. can be moved enough to allow a slim socket and extension. ( Red Arrows in these 2 pics )
Again, no hole to drill - I do not expect to have to do this shit again in this lifetime.

But, hey, hey, it's fun. Right?


1906 Pass Handle both Nuts Removal
Yup, both nuts ( Yellow ) are available for removal now.
Nothing dramatic and not easy - getting things out of the way - just wiggle Rods & Latch till 'Daylight'.


1913 Pass Dr Handle Spring loose
As soon as I pulled the Handle body clear of the door to release the Rod going to the Latch ( Yellow Arrow ) ...
- The Spring ( Red Arrow ) popped off the Actuator Arm - you can see it's track ...( Red Box ).
I'll get that back on later - I hope.


1908 Pass Hndl Rod removal & retr
To pull the Latch Assembly, I removed the Inside Handle Rod ( Yellow ) / Bastard Retainer ( but - they do work maddeningly well ) ( Red ) to make it easier to work down from the opening.
The other Rod - for the Lock - I can't reach yet.


1910 Pass Dr Lock Rod and Latch
Guess I was really tired, but finagling this Latch, down and out was a trick ...
- and took a bit of tongue holding and hoop jumping LOL

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:


1915 Pass Dr Key Lock Cyl Hndl & Latch
Out of position and not belonging at all is the Short Rod ( Red Arrow ).
The Yellow Arrow is the Key Lock Rod.

Tomorrow, with time and good light, I will get closer pics of the Lock Cyl and the Lever / Retainer gadget.
Cleanup day, too - most gets Mike's Karwash & Kustom Kerosene Bubble & Bath & Blow.
Better shots of the Complicated Latch Mech. Pretty interesting, it's operation, like a good coaster brake or derailleur.

Then on to "The Grease Rack", queue up for reassembly, which follows Door Shell Cleanup and everything else.

Here's 3 pics of the Outside Handle and a few views of the Spring Catch and End.
It was a real HASSLE getting it around the right side and over the Lever edge ...
- Sucker is Strong and Spunky for it's size, shape and age. Silly thing, resisting and all to the very end...


1917 Pass Dr Handle Spring assy
Yellow Arrow - Spring "Catch", Blue is the Spring "End".


1919 Pass Dr Handle Spring assy 2
Blue is the Catch wrapped around the Lever.


1921 Pass Dr Handle Spring assy 3
Yellow - again, is the Spring Catch , Blue - End.

Handle seems to be just fine, none the worse for wear and still sits in the Door Pocket just fine.
Till next time...
 
#366 ·
Close ups of the Lock Cylinder & Pics of the Latch / Associated Rods.

Set up for the Driver or Passenger Sides - Latch Actuator Lever.


1922 Pass Key Lock Cyl & Key
Magenta Arrow points to the Slot on both sides of inner Cyl. shaft. This for the Retainer to slide into.
There is no mistaking how the "Symetrical Lever" is to sit over the Center Shaft of the Key Cyl.
When the Key is inserted / pointed "teeth down", it slips into the Lock.


1924 Pass Key Lock Cyl & Rod Lever
The Lever at this point can be put on either way - Driver or Passenger.


1926 Pass Key Lock Cyl Lever & Retainer
Red points to the Retainer Point that locates in a Hole in the Lever.


1928 Pass Key Lock Cyl Retainer Slide back
Here you can see the narrowing of the Retainer Slot as it slides into the Slots of the Cyl.

Sexy talk, now...


1930 Pass Key Lever Retainer in Position
Retainer Point sitting in Hole - Locked.

Still has at least 20 degress of Lost Motion from the Key Turn to the Rod moving in the Latch.
Lever is also fairly loose axially to the shaft - putting a Bend Into the Retainer will take up some slack.
A shim in the Retainer may help eliminate some radial play.

With this the least used Lock, ( maybe back door is tighter ) there probably is not going to be any better setup.


1931 Pass Key Lock Cylinder assy Parts

Here's all the parts - Bastard Lock Cyl. Retainer, Flimsy Gasket and all.

Did I get it Orientation of the Lever correct for the Passenger Door...?
No fair going back to the last Post...!!!

Now the Magnificent Door Latching Assembly "Big *** XXX Cleanup"

1933 Pass Dr Latch Handle Rods Kerosene Sauna arrangement

Thing was pretty dirty or ugly dirty or dirty as fuck or downright filthy or ... it was a stinkin' mess, I tell ya'.
I wore 2 pair of gloves, 1 pair on my ... well...


1935 Pass Dr Latch Handle Rods actual Position

The purpose ( or show of Lunacy ) here is to show the relation of the Various Components ( minus the Lock Module ) within the door.
The Handle is turned in the proper orientation ( sorta' ), the Rods are in their Proper Location.
Base of the Handle in proper rotation ( again. sorta' ) to the Door Face of the Latch.


1937 Pass Dr Latch Handle Rod Pos from Above
Without a holder or rack to hang the parts from - hard to see the relation or Rod Ends to Latch Conns.
Here the Yellow points out the real short Rod that connects to the Door Handle.

That's that one that's a bitch to do when swapping Handles.

Red is the 6 inch long Rod that connects to the Key Lock Cylinder Lever.


1939 Pass Dr Latch Handle Rod Pos from Side
Different view - here again, the Yellow points to the Handle actuator Rod.
Blue Arrow is the Locking Rod for the Interior Lock Slider - with it's "Sharp S curve" for the Door Lock Lever.

That Crook will be covered with Shrink Wrap / Rubber insulator to deaden lock noise a bit - similar to the White Rubber Coating used on the Gen II doors. The Door mounted Lock Lever "Fingers" will be coated also. Best I can, anyway.


1940 Pass Dr Latch from Afar & Plastic bits

Here's to the Rod Ends that never get any recognition - they never break, never wear out, never ask for a raise.
Some Don't Even Get Into Their Own Recognition Photograph Group Shot.

What are those rubbery, crumbly blacks things with the Red Circle?
They were not stuck to any magnet - they came out in the wash and tried to 'get lost' real quick and stealthy.
2 more things broke off and are still laying in the Kerosene Bath - as we speak or read or ramble... or ramble...


1942 Pass Dr Latch Plastic bits Close up

They don't look like Rod Bearings or Hose Clamps or the Rubber nubs on new hoses.
As I cleaned the Latch rather aggressively with a toothbrush and held my tongue right, 2 more retention knobby-like things fell into the Kerosene Tub of Disintegration.

I'll get after them tomorrow - keep tabs of all my small bits of anonymous rubber whatevers.

On other News...

"A Kidney Stone Thread" - wow, just wow. Can't wait to read about Cluster Heaache Med Lineup Topics and Oxygen Replenishment Equipment Show off threads. LOL really... sadly

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
 
#370 ·
Again... on to more Seemingly Endless Prattle n' Pics of Door Innards.
Some Interesting, some not so much.


1948 Pass Latch loose Rubber bits
Lost quite a bit of the Rubber cushion from the sides/bottom of the Latch.
In Blue - 2 little knobs that were poked thru the marked holes held it in place.

Like the other door - did not affect performance, did not notice noise or excessive rattling or looseness.


1949 Pass Latch close up -72A-
In case I need to get a replacement - might as well start looking - 72 A stamped into the sheet metal.


1951 Pass Latch close up -2 8 or B-
Here's a view of the marks on the other side - also stamped - 2 B or 2 8, not sure.
If anyone has any NOS or low years replacement that are not an arm & a leg, first born, etc., Please let me know.


1953 Pass Dr Latch & Hndl Grease Station
Found a .005" Shim was the best and easiest to get grease into all the cams, discs and levers.
And a small bristle brush like a glue applicator.


1955 Pass Dr outside Cleaned up
Sheetmetal cleaned of old duct tape and insul. goop.


1957 Driver Door Hndl Rubber Grommet
Blue pointing to the Handle Stop Grommet on the Driver's Door that does not sit Flush.
This Handle is new - got it from Rockauto - do not have Part no. or Info.


1944 Pass Handle Stop Grommet Close up
Circled - the Grommet that is too short or Squat on some Door Handles.


1946 Pass Handle Stop Grommet Close up 2
Here's a pic of the same 'Stopper', from the inside.


1959 Pass Door Hndl Sitting behind flush
Or maybe, "Below Flush".


1960 Pass Door Hndl Sitting behind flush 2
Another view of the New Handle that does not sit in a correct orientation to coincide with the door sheet metal.


1961 Pass Door Hndl .063 Shim
That happens to be 'file card material" for a total thickness of about 1/16" - .063" - 1.6mm.


1962 Pass Door Hndl Sitting flush
A much better look - no doubt - albeit temporary.


1964 Pass Door Hndl Sitting flush 2
Beauty shot from a different angle - Golly!!

I am going to look for some various Grommets to try - We have a "Grommets and Teacups are Us" here in Edgewood.


1966 Pass Door Window motor .255 Drill
Did get to the Motor drilling - just a tad over the 1/4-20 SHCS I plan to use with SS Locknuts.


1968 Pass Door Window Regulator .255 Drill
Like the Motor, the screws will just fit in the 4 oversize holes.

Glad I had a catch cloth down in the bottom - made the clean up a snap. Still blew and vacuumed down in the crevices and ensured the drain/weep holes are open. There is one in the Front & the Back 'thin edge'/crimp.
 
#372 ·
Wow sixsix, your van does look like new!
Just seen that pic of the front and inside the engine compartment, wow.
Your attention to detail for the interior and work is top notch, I had no idea it looks like that.
Awesome!
 
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#374 ·
On and on with the Passenger Door.
Got a couple things done, quieting some linkage and recording wiring / tape / retainer locations.


1969 Pass Dr Heat gun Dorman Shrink wrap
Seems I posted a few of these before, but still, this Dorman Set is cheap and easy to get - Au0Z0ne.
2 level Heat gun was about $5 w/ disc. at Harder Fright.
Before getting it, I used to just wave my soldering iron close to it. Idiocy...


1971 Pass Dr Shrink wrap Lock Rod
Cut up a few pcs. 1/2" long to get past the bends - perfect. I ended up doing 2 layers.


1973 Pass Dr Shrink wrap Lock Lever with Rod
This will deaden a lot of the 'Rod Clatter' ...
- that Gen II Interiors have taken better care of with Rubberized Coatings std.

I got some New Electrical tape - TESA - at the recommendation of... I can't remember...
But if it is good enough for Audi, VW, Mercedes and most other affiliated European Brands - it'll work for me.


1975 Pass Dr - TESA Elec Tape pliable soft sticky
Couple bucks per roll, super sticky, soft, pliable - feels like cloth - insulates and has heat protectant built - in.
Rolls are 19mm wide by about 50 feet long - roll is about 4" in diameter.
Regular rubber/plastic elec. tape is only 2.5" Diam. with the same width.

Recorded a few views of the door's Wiring, Tape, Retainers, etc for later use.


1977 Pass Dr - L S Elec tape & Retnr Locs
Left Side
Blue is one of the 'Taped Down' Plastic Retainers, Yellow - the Window Motor Conn.


1979 Pass Dr - L C Elec tape-plug & Retnr Locs
Left Center
Wiring ID White tag has date of 1/6/1992 - close to dates I have seen on other components.
Again, Blue is one of the Retainers, Yellow is the Window Control Conn., Red is the Lock Control Conn.


1980 Pass Dr - R C Elec tape & Retnr Locs
Right Center
2nd of the Retainers and they used some weird Olive Drab duct tape also to hang from the door in a few locations.


1982 Pass Dr - R S Elec tape & Retnr Locs
Right Side
Blue is the rt. sd. Retainer, Yellow, the Lock Motor Conn.
These and the Pics prior to tear down will help in routing and tucking in properly.

After Taping and associated Wiring setup - I'll post the rest of the shots.
 
#376 ·
Whenever I see Mike's door pics, it makes me glad that my 88 has manual doors, with nothing powered inside them (less stuff to go bad). I still can't believe he tore into them, and removed all of that preservative (grease).
 
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