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Mike's 1992 Astro Resurrection / Bucket List

97K views 572 replies 36 participants last post by  sixsix 
#1 ·
Well... more of a "Rebirth" or "Return"... to the Van my wife and I enjoyed driving Out West back in 95'. I really owe it to this tired old vehicle to "Make it feel right again".

Don't get me wrong - it is still driveable - Xmas trees, pallets of sod, 7 family members, GAP outlet store runs, who needs to go where and with what? , etc, etc, etc... But, I can't put these off for too long much longer. The other car ( 2006 Altima SE ) is finally out of the shop and trustworthy enough to take the van "out of service" for an extended period.

I have till August 2015 ( Whew, hope it doesn't take THAT long ). We are planning a trip to Sturgis 75th Anniv. and points west with my wife's sister and her husband ( who are "Harley Davidson aficionados" ). They will be driving another van ( brand X ) and pulling their bikes on a trailer. Wife and I will help with pulling "The Toys".

Need to do / Things to do / Want to do

1) JY Fuel door release - Lever flops around - Cable end still intact - Latch still works
- update: still need OEM lever from JY, but was able to temp. repair the cable end/lever capture point.

2) JY Replace headliner / repair / visors - loose - entire - front to back - deadening - insulation

3) JY Engine fan clutch OR Electric fan & relay conversion

4) Cruise control not working - check all vacuum fittings and hoses - elecs. & servo system

5) Heater / A/C vent controls selector - chk. vacuum system - JY replacement dash control unit

6) Hard idle - in gear

7) Electric door locks balky

8) JY Windows slow - one slows the other

9) Bad Ground - in dash?

10) Ammeter bounces with blinker

11) Engine elec. / Alternator noise thru stereo - AM - need RADIO GROUND TO METAL

12) Shocks - all four - would like smooth "cushy ride" OEM style

13) Body - Frame mounts / bushings - noisy over bumps

14) Stereo / amp. refurbish - heat - cavity in heater duct - wiring - door speakers/subs - insulation/deadening

15) Sliding door / bearings / clean / grease

16) Door seals - silicone

17) Interior panels / Carpet cleaning

18) JY Seat belt latch covers - plastic shroud

19) OEM Reese hitch ball carrier and locking retainer pin - ball set - offset? - extender?

20) Trailer wiring harness - permanent? - routing to plug - hideaway / swing up

21) Dents - minor above l.r. wheel & on sliding door/r.r. wheel well

22) Fog lights get working / rework - reseal - mechanical and elec.

23) JY Glove compartment release broken - 2nd time

24) Complete chassis lube

25) Steering / suspension component / bushings check

26) JY Rear stabilizer bar & related parts - JY?

27) Sound proofing, deadening, insulation

28) GAS MILEAGE issues - emissions systems, cat, exhaust

29) PERFORMANCE issues - head & intake work, cam, CAI - CPI vs TBI

Yes - have quite a bit to do. They are in some sort of order - starting with my/it's most immediate needs and I realize that some will be taken care with others as one item is fixed. IE: 7) door locks balky, 8) Windows slow or never, 9) Bad Ground issues, 10) Ammeter bounces and 11) Alternator noise thru stereo will probably tie together to some degree.

As will 2) Hdliner, 14) stereo, door spkrs. & insulation, 15) Sliding door, 16) Door seals, 17) Interior panels / Carpet cleaning and 27) Sound proofing, etc. will be taken care of concurrently.

Vacuum issues the same... 4) Cruise and 5) A/C controls

I will be referring to these items under the #)s assigned and will do my best to take as many GOOD photos as I can - PROMISE. Scouts Honor? Now - onto the Headliner...

Mike
 
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#403 ·
Here's ( part of ) the rest of the Wiring Harness / Trailer Hitch electrics work / Pics.

Got the slimy wires cleaned up and retaped the 6 wire bundle.
Used a 110V wire nut on the 5mm Red wire, retaped the tips of the other 6...
- checked them all for "supple gentle uplifting... and good insulators".
- used the New Tape to clean up the 5 ft long bundle.
- left it unplugged for now.

Listening to "Then Play on" - Fleetwood Mac ( the remastered ), while I write, sorry if I take a while...
There's a few tossed in from Future Games & Hypnotized too. All of Tres Hombres and some Tejas, too.


2219 Hitch Wire Bundles taped
New tape is so nice to work with - seems to know exactly what I want...


2220 Hitch Wire Bundles stowed
Gloves wrapped around the handle & socket dohickee. ...can never remember - is it dohickey ?
Some tie wraps & carpet insul. to deaden the hitch-related equip. from flopping as I crest the "Last Dune".

Forgot how much Room there is - for crap, like an Amp or whatever to hide back here...
- thinking of some hooks or few long, low buckets or something to store stuff in.
- actually some captive/release tie wraps, velcro or tactical gear attach. methods / MOLLE would do.


2222 Hitch Wire Cover install
Seems I need to check the alignment here between these 2 panels. Those 3 'tabs' up there... well, I dunno'.
Also need to replace the OEM "Sound Snot" at the "plastic touchy areas".

This Panel has one of the Most Unique GM Fasteners. It may have to be 'Adjusted Upward' some.
An expanding rubber mandrel....
If there is a request - I will do a complete segment in my annoying manner... THE expanding RUBBER mandrel'

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:


2224 Hitch Wiring Full pg
Boxed-in portion is the 5 mm sq ( approx. 10 ga ) "Red Wire".
"Always Hot", 30 Amp Fused, Heavily insulated - It runs from the C193 Conn. at the Fuse Panel area...
- all the way to the back of The Van, one piece of wire - The longest single wire on a GMC product - Astro Div.


2228 Hitch Wiring conn & hvy RED lead
Close up of previous discussion and pic.


2226 Hitch Wiring conn & colors
Connector #450
The Wiring - Number, Size, Color & Signal description.
It is a Single Ground system.

Here is a Hitch Receptacle / Connector chart comparing the various Wires and Plug setups:

Trailer Plug Wiring.jpg

The 7 position blade seems most common, but SAE or RV stds?

Anyone know which is the most common?
Which should I buy?

This is some EU stuff I got from Luma:

towing1.jpg
Euro 13pin Trailer Plug.png

The EU and Europe in General use a 13 pin system that involves 3 separate grounds and addl. side markers

So much for the Elec stuff.
Just for information - From our RPO Sticker - Tow/Haul Hitch GM RPO codes - M and L models of the Astro and Safari Vans.

UY7 = TRAILER WIRING,7 WIRE,2 LEAD FRONT HARNESS,5 LEAD REAR HARNESS 7 WIRE TRLR HARN(UY7)
VR4 = TRAILER HITCH(WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING PLATFORM) EQLZR HITCH(VR4)
Z82 = TRAILERING PACKAGE(SPECIAL)(REESE TYPE HITCH) PROVISION FOR HD TRAILER EQUIP(Z82)

Just need to score some small mechanical items and clean the receiver base.
 
#404 ·
I now have 2 things stuck in my brain. "Sound snot (at Monkey Ward we called it monkey snot, VERY handy stuff to have stuck to the bottom corner of your toolbox for when you need a plug) and "Hypnotized". Haven't heard that one in years, but I'll have years worth of it on repeat in my head tonight. Turnabout is fair play, I suppose. I did get Leeann a while back with "That's What Friends Are For". It's my turn.

BTW- thanks for posting the details of the doors and wiring. When the time comes it'll be good to know where to look for reference material. My time WILL be coming, my door locks are getting weaker and weaker.
 
#405 ·
Big_kid said:
I now have 2 things stuck in my brain. "Sound snot (at Monkey Ward we called it monkey snot, VERY handy stuff to have stuck to the bottom corner of your toolbox for when you need a plug) and "Hypnotized". Haven't heard that one in years, but I'll have years worth of it on repeat in my head tonight. Turnabout is fair play, I suppose. I did get Leeann a while back with "That's What Friends Are For". It's my turn.

BTW- thanks for posting the details of the doors and wiring. When the time comes it'll be good to know where to look for reference material. My time WILL be coming, my door locks are getting weaker and weaker.
Goddammit...I think I'd just gotten rid of that earworm :evil:
 
#406 ·
To finish the explanation.
7 pin EU is for regular trailers and has all exterior lights need it.
- 2 side markers, 2 side parking light, ground, 1 fog light, 1 brake light,
The 13 pin eu has extra backup light and utilities wiring. This 13 pin we use for caravans.
 
#407 ·
Glad I was able to get a smile and provide an 'Aural Surprise' ...
( and remember - no heraldic anthems by Journey ( pre asian guy ))

Thanks again Luma - keeping me on 'Everyone's Toes' - LOL.

But - you American Trailer Haulers:
sixsix said:
The 7 position blade seems most common, but SAE or RV stds?

Anyone know which is the most common?
Which should I buy?
Obviously, the 4 pin is easy and I will be putting a receptacle for one on my bracket.

On another note...
You see my Hitch w/ I think is a "Std 2" Drop".
Is there a more appropriate Drop Dims. that is more common.

It is my understanding that the trailer s/b 'Level' when pulled - Any Help w/ confidence, etc, blah, blah.
Guess there are a few Dims. to get - Receiver inside / top hgt to ground & trailer hitch to ground / when level.
I see why Copper got an "Adjustable ( read expensive ) Hitch" for next to nothing...

Over-thinking, maybe?
 
#409 ·
Well, the Hitch stuff was a nice 'Diversion' for a few...
Thanks for all the help w/ a body mount 7 pin recept. selection...

Now back to the Door Work:
Anyone use glue sticks on a regular basis?


2053 PS Dr Glue stick stuff

First time trying them - glue works very well for items ready to be stuck together.
And more or less - never come apart again.


2055 PS Dr Paper repair 1


2057 PS Dr Paper repair 2


2059 PS Dr Paper repair 3
Dried as hard as a ... Glob of Glue.

But the "Stick System" is great for that - crafty stuff, etc... the usual.
I need, "remountable" or removable glue strips or dots.

Seems 0fficem@x or 0ffice Dep0t is the place to check for glue dots and ...
- assorted 3M products that are similar to Monkey Snot or the like.


2060 DR Dr Paper repair 1
So - might as well repair the paper since I removed all the RED circled and some YELLOW arrowed at Gorill@ Tape.
It was WAY too strong for this application.

Of course, there was backup frosty beverage under another Pesky YELLOW arrow.

I'll repair both DR Papers with regular masking tape.

We'll go out to a few stores tomorrow that will allow us in w/o a stupid mask...
Really Tired of "The Mask Stigma".


2062 DR Dr Paper repair 2
Might as well get a few Beauty Shots - The Van and work area. Really lucky to have 2 garages.


2064 DR Dr Paper repair 3
Of course, if we Didn't, probably would have finished these few last things sooner.


2066 Hood Insul Liner graying
Never thought to ask - Anyone know how to Restore the "Blackness" of the underhood insulation?
Short of rubbing it down w/ a little oil or silicone spray.

I need some "Stuff" for my walls down there.

Later this week we count the dust balls UNDER THE VAN.
So bored.
 
#410 ·
As always your detail to interior perfection is ON POINT sir!

LOL @dust balls under van :lol:
 
#411 ·
Ironsides said:
LOL @dust balls under van :lol:
Thanks and yeah, it's been sittin' a while this time. I usually run it up to the store or over to Randy's to see what his boat looks like every once in a while.
But ain't been out to do a "Tuneup Drive", Beer Run, Chick Pickup or nothing.

I know...
So did this the other day when I had 4 breathes to spare.


2069 PS Dr Lock wiring Ret'r

Had to take off the (3) Lock Wiring Retainers that I had foolishly put the same dist. from the Lock Motor conn. as the original Factory Black Electrician's Tape had them mounted per this dwg.:



2071 PS Dr Lock wiring Ret'r 2 n 3
I don't know what the "Actual" retainer Location dimensions were, but...
- they ended up where they did - once I pulled it taut.
Yellow arrows point to the 'other' 2 Ret'r. locs. ( they were not even close to the orig. locs. )


2073 PS Dr Lock wiring Ret'r 3
Circled in Yellow...
This ret'r may have to relocate - if the Plastic/Vinyl Lock / Handle Panel ( not sure of this "Tech Term" ) interferes.

I'll circle back...

Arrow points to the now "STIFF AS A BOARD" wiring harness - now that it is all tight and hard n' all... ... ... ...


2075 PS Dr clean up
A few things in this shot - Goof Off for wiping the door down. ( this stuff is better than trichlor and 1,1,1 )
Get's off the old glue stuff and years of tears.

NOTHING stands in this stuff's way.
Not even me - fumes got me after 6 mins... nice... BienHoa... velvet ... .. . ... whoa...


2077 PS & DR Dr paper clean up
Also blotted up any dust and debris on the inner door side of the all too important DR. & PS. "Door Papers".
Glue Dots from $t@ple$ - 60 of 'em for a couple bucks and...
- got to harass a couple of young guys and 2 milfs with huge ... never mind.


2079 PS Dr paper Glue Dots 1
Here they are in comp. to the orig. OEM splendid lines of "Monkey Snot".
1/2" in diameter - "Temporary Hold".

Whatever...


2081 PS Dr paper Glue Dots 2
Sorry for the crappy ill-begotten focus - these were real tough to get off the plastic.
Stretch about 6" before snapping off the plastic POS.


2083 PS Dr paper Snot Blobs

They are REALLY sticky and won't stay on anything permanently. OK, every 2-3 inches, just stick em' right on the orig strips of Snot.
Red circle is the opening for the Manual Crank Stem - when the Paper is positioned just so everything lines up - so does this line right up with the centerline of the Window Motor.

GM saving money on Door Paper.


2085 PS Dr paper mounted
Remember to go under the Lock Rod that is riding next to a plastic/foam pad ( still in "NEW COND" strangely ).

The Glue Dots are rather forgiving... coming off whenever you brush them against anything.


2087 PS Dr paper mounted 2
A little upper left Door Paper Detail.. yeah, I know.
Yellow circle is the Handle access cut for this - the Universal Passenger Door Moisture Barrier Paper.

Upper Arrow points out the Harness coming up and over and supported with Duct Tape.
Again... The Window Control wiring - I fed it thru the Window shaft hole since the New POS Elec. tape from POS Europe and those Audi/VW/Porsche jackasses is so tight and hard and unforgiving - just like their Men...


2089 PS Dr paper mounted 3
Here's a real exciting one...

Pointing out the 1/4-20 SHCS w/ SS Locknut hardware holding the Armrest bottom bolts. Figure best I can do to achieve some semblance of safety... LOL
Pointing out the NOS tape location being used - Keen , huh?

Might do a test fit of the Plastic Handle/Lock Panel... ... ... soon

No sense rushing things now.
 
#412 ·
On with the rest of the Passenger Door Reassembly.
The "Little Sweet Glue Dots" did not work worth a shit. Kept it in place... sorta', so OK, only a few bucks...

Double Checked all electrics to/from this door - A-OK - on to installing the "Lock Lever Panel".


2090 PS Dr Plates-Switches cleanup

From: If it's good enough for the "Ducks n' Penguins Union Breaker's Coalition"
Dawn Detergent is Acme - nonpareil. That and CLR and their many permutations.
And "Goof Off". And Marvel Mystery Oil. And Barbasol... still 97 cents @ Wally's SuperXtra.

I also point out the Window Control Button sitting at an Angle. It happens to be the Best Way to install it.
Press that end in and slide back ( the Trim Panel slot is widened and offset to one dir ), then slide the other end in and snap both ends down.

The Lock PB is keyed, can only be installed UP and simply snaps in w/o jumping thru any hoops...
All of the "Brass Contact Feet" were lightly sanded for... whatever.


2092 PS Dr Panel & Parts cleanup

Gathered together all the left over Door stuff for the Passenger sd - most were on a tray I had for each side, since I had both doors apart at one time. Reassembly should go quick, I have replacement White "Tree" retainers - it takes 10 total, I am replacing 7 or 8 of 'em this side.

Red Arrow - That foam Door Panel Liner is still fresh, supple, uplifting, faith restoring.
I am ready for another "Glue Adventure".
Yellow Circle is some 'deadening/sound mat' stuff for the "Mirror Opening" - old stuff had melted down into the door innards.


2094 PS Dr Lock Lever Panel 1
Right here at the start of putting this Panel back on - with the Door Handle 'into' the Panel about 1/2 way...
- The Yellow Arrow points to the Lock Rod that needs to be guided in as the Handle is pulled the rest of the way thru.
Easier seen in the next Pic.


2096 PS Dr Lock Lever Panel 2
Panel is fully seated against the Paper, Handle is in it's cutout and the Lock Rod is @ the Yellow Arrow again.
Golly


2098 PS Dr Lock Lever Retnr
These little suckers appear all over Gen I Vans and many, many models - Here's a few Tips...
- that straight Yellow Line - make sure the 'Thin portion' on the rt end ( Yellow Arrow ) is in line w/ the rest of it.
- the Yellow Arrow is actually pointing to the Teensy-Weensie Locator Tab. That is the actual Tech. term.
... it sticks down and goes into a hole in the Lock Lever ( Blue Arrow ). Just ensure you still have one.
- Red Arrow points to a small piece of the Rod Retainer Wedge bent - making it impossible to force it on the Rod.
... I had to bend it back down w/o it cracking.
- put a towel down - It is a requirement to drop one at least 2X. - Look under the Driveshaft, just like back in the day.

- LAPS has replacements - don't they...?

... and no, I didn't have to call.


2099 PS Dr Lock Lever Panel 3

Mission accomplished - Put a little lithium lube on the Lever Pivot, Retainer installed and Lock PB Wiring Harness ( Blue Arrow ) fed thru the Panel ready to be plugged in to the Trim Panel.

Yellow Arrows Rule - we'll use some more when we do the Panel / Door Card assembly.
Until next time...

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
 
#414 ·
Thanks Bruce - just "Passing it On" or Forward or Circle Back...
The only "other" Gen I door rebuild that I have read was yours.
Sad shape they were - yeah, It's fun reading your Build - V8 Parts especially.

More Passenger Door Rebuild News !!!

With the Door seemingly ready for the Interior Panel - time to put it together.
...Just "one more thing", The Mirror pocket close off...


2101 PS Dr Mirror pocket
A few posts back, you may remember the old sound deadening/insulation - Very Sad.
Like in the side door from years back, 30 yr old sound dead'g. crap...
- Dripping down, fouling the rods, levers and nerves.

A good clean up with a friendly solvent and it is ready for a patched up slab of Peal n' Seal.
The days of 1,1,1, MEK and dry cleaning solvent by the 5 gal pail are over...
- It's Goof Off time now - stuff is dangerous - my opinion.


2103 PS Dr Mirror pckt Insulation
Nice that nothing went to waste once I finished the Doors.
Just make sure it's where you want it - glue is tough and stuff deforms if too heavy-handed.
Roll it in w/ a narrow hard seam or counter top roller.
Open up the Retainer Hole above the opening.


2105 PS Dr Door Panel Pocket Move
Down below are some thumbs of previous Pass Dr. Pics for Possibly putting a 6x9 or 6.5 Speaker in each.
Blue Circle gives a relative location that coincides w/ an existing Sheetmetal Opening
At the blunt end of the Yellow Arrow[/color] - 2 of the 6 screws that hold the Pocket on.

Red Arrows - 2 of the 10 'tree retainers that might interfere w/ whatever.
- a screw or 2 elsewhere close, but no problems...
- other than the depth and whether the door innards can handle Sound Wise...
- I suspect more than just deadening the outer sheet metal would be advised.

The rods are captured or rest against foam or plastic, but there is far more, to be sure.

Pic 1 - Red plastic lined opening - look at the 2 holes below - the Red Arrows above...
Pic 5 - Interesting Vinyl Color code set on the inside of the Pocket.


2107 PS Dr Door Panel Foam & Int Glue
Have a 1/2 can of 3M 8088 glue - just followed where it was sprayed on both in the factory.
Perfect... for a change.


2109 PS Dr Door Panel Foam
Still hard to believe this foam is probably 30 years old considering inventory build data...

If there is interest in a full speaker measurement - if an audience, I will entertain it... send money...
 
#416 ·
Naptha, Acetone and Lacquer thinner... yeah, they're still out there.
Goof Off is good as it does not break down the paint, INSTEAD going right for my lungs.

Jeannie will smack me if she catches me w/o a breather on using any of it - even dabbing.
I tell her..."hey, look at the plane"... and go about my business.

LOL
 
#420 ·
The other day I mentioned getting the Passenger Door Sheet Metal Factory opening, depth & Loc. Dimensions.
Might help someone looking to mount a speaker in the Gen I OEM Door Map Pocket general location.

Keep in mind - the Door, sheet metal, basic construction design, properties, glass, Interior Panel...
- nor are any of the Metal Innards ( actual Technical Term ) acoustically engineered for sound.
Heck the back doors are not much better...

And it's not like the OEM speaker / amped systems were going to win any Sound Sweep Contests...

... and wait, no way was the "Back Deck Lid" a good design space either, a pair of 6x9 dual cones screaming...
- into the horrible Booming, Buzzing Bounty we call The Trunk.

Whoolps... no trunk here...


2110 PS Dr Door Panel Meas
Seems a single brace would allow a fairly large speaker frame to fit w/ min. slice n' dicing.

All Measurements in inches.
And with possibly a 1.0 spacer - a speaker with 3.5 to 4.0 mounting depth should work fine.
The Door's sheet metal to Window Track Dimension = 2.63
Mounted Door Panel Carpet to sheet metal ( apprx. ) = .75 to 1.0

I can get a 'tighter' dim. after assy. - your mileage may vary...
 
#421 ·
Well, it has been quite a while since I said, "Hanging the vinyl LT door panel is a piece of cake"...

Actually... I NEVER said that. If I did - Donald Sutherland's spores have invaded my body and the real me will be with you shortly... ... ... ... call Civil Defense or any woman w/ a pointy brassiere.

Getting the Passenger Door panel ready to "Hang".


2112 PS Dr Panel Tree Retainers

I replaced 6 of the 10 with New "from China" Tree-Style Retainers. The new ones go in too easy and pop back out with the slightest of pull.
Blue Arrows - tight OEM retainers


2114 PS Dr Panel Window Wiper rubber
The Velour carpet/int. material is surprisingly in good shape - no burns, stains or blems of any sort.
Again... surprise, surprise.

Wiped off the Window Wiper - sprayed the outside w/ CRC silicone - here again, Rubber Wipers and Door Seals, in general, are in Very Good Condition.
Lucky is the key word here. PM is another...


2116 PS Dr Panel Mirror pkt trim
Had to trim some of the Peel n' Seal at the top left side - about 1/4" X 1" long and opened the retainer hole.

Some Random thoughts before "Hanging the Panel w/ Retainers"...

- in retrospect - wish I had test fit w/o any retainers, which may show possible problems, etc..
- you can leave the "bottom 2 rows of 3 retainers out till finishing the rest of the door vinyl. Twist 'em in Later.
- you can always use some small hd. screws to 'bring things in'.
- I may take it back off- start over - use some, replace some ret'rs. with older ones.
- Screws - experiment a little keeping them covered - ( not show, sm hds ... ... )


2118 PS Dr Panel NEW RETNRS ARE SHIT.jpg

The 2 corners with the "NEW" China Retainers... Well you could throw a small dog, some big treats up thru that gap and the Panel just flops around w/o pulling in tight.

Damn... pushing in was too easy and the "Tree Branches" do not hold well enough - especially when "Fully Inserted".


2120 PS Dr Panel Window Crank align

As you reassemble...
Made sure to keep 3 things in Alignment: At the Red Arrow:
- the center of the Motor Drive or Handle location.
- the "Door Paper" OEM 1" diam. diag. cross cut opening.
- the center of the Hole in the Vinyl Door Panel.

The Yellow Arrows - 3 slots that must be obstruction - free.


2121 PS Dr Panel Arm Rest align

Looking back - the Cyan Alignment Rules - it's where it ended up...

Just Hate that the Retainers suck.

Covid Bats probably sucked the strength outa the poor suckers... ...


:banana-dreads: :banana-dreads: :banana-dreads: :banana-dreads:
 
#423 ·
Thanks, Dom - like you, I am not rushing 'anything' - LOL.

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

So... finishing the Passenger Door and a few Notes about Reassembly.


2123 PS Dr Panel finish items
Getting ready to put the Arm Rest back on, I rechecked the tightness...
- and ensuring the Torx star points are in the same Orientation & Pattern.
- also installed the "Access Plug" w/ molded writing Aligned Horizontally.

- sprayed a shot of white lithium ( I know, Privileged ), cuz I could not find a BIPOC brand.


2125 PS Dr Arm Rest & retainers
The Yellow Arrow points to the only OEM Screw that goes into the Dr. Panel.
( there are 2 more shown later, but they go into the Arm Rest and Door sheet metal )

The Red Arrow - one of "Those" spring steel Retainers & it's slot in the sheet metal.

Lastly, and barely visible, one of the 2 Alignment retainers ( Blue Arrow ) that hold the back edge of the AR down...
- They are inserted - slid in 1st before pressing down the steel bottom Retainer.


2127 PS Dr AR screw holes & rtnr

Can't get enough Arm Rest views... ? Here we see the 2 screw holes down in the bottom of the Hand Hold.
Note, make sure the Retainer 'foot' is 'spread' to ensure a 'deep hold'.
And check the bottom surface in that same area is "Concave" and/or flat, so no lift or bulginess ( new word today ).


2129 PS Dr AR screws
Ran a couple down into the wood and wire brushed - look OK, but...
- I will be using SS screws and a flat washer when finished.

That "Hand Hold" has been full of coke, coffee, engine starter fluid, champaign, vomit, water ( sea and fresh )...
- so no rusty crap...


2130 PS Dr Lock Slider tite

I added a piece of alum/snd dead'g stuff - Yellow Arrow - to make the Door Lock Slider slip on tighter.
It is actually held on by the Top Cover - this just keeps it from flopping around a bit.


2132 PS Dr Lock Slider Trk

Back side of the Slider shows a 'Track' to Align with the 'Nib' on the Panel. Gotta' Love The Cyan.
Also helps with determining which way the thing goes on...


2134 PS Dr Elec Conns & tabs & rtnrs
The back side of this Trim Panel is bristling with Locators, Tabs, Retainers, Connectors, Stallions, Lions...

A few Notes, Wire is very hard and brittle now - ESPECIALLY now that I wrapped the Harnesses so Tight and Tidy.
They will not move unless spoken to in kind gentle tones lined with barbed wire.

I would recommend a dry fit before hooking it up.
Make sure the sheet metal Retainers are at "Full Grab".

When pressing the Retainers in, press the area around the Switch also so as not to separate the two.


2136 PS Dr Elec Panel fin 1

Everything went back together OK - I am Very Very pleased with the overall...
- Look, Feel, Quiet, Operation and the Closing ( new car ) "Dull Thud".

This is the Perfect excuse or reason to post my First Video - " Film @ 11 ".


2138 PS Dr Elec Panel fingerprint 2

Missed a fingerprint... really I can't believe these Panels are almost 30 years old w/ 200K on them...

Now back to the Driver's Door from Hell.
 
#424 ·
You, sir, are most definitely the authority on our doors. Any door question I could imagine having should be answered in this thread. The twenty seven eight-by-ten colour glossy pictures with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one should prove invaluable to anyone needing a reference.
 
#425 ·
I was so impressed by how well the Passenger Door turned out after a few months of restorations.
I'm kinda' slow & methodical ( naw, just plod along... ... ) - health & weather conspire to finish it for me.

The Clincher was the Sound it made when the Door thudded home.

So... a couple Milestones in One Post:
- This is number 5,000 - and it has been 7 years - also, uploaded over 1,400 pics ( all Oriented properly )

- But had never uploaded a video to the Net, much less here - So here we go:


When I finish the elecs from the Driver Door, I will post my 2nd Video of Both Doors doing their respective "Duties".
Lock, unlock, roll up and down, working from either Door, et, etc.

Surprised about a couple of things while fiddling w/ this Video - 15 secs, 6 meg unedited. I do have Elements from a couple years ago - not used at all.
Camera - used Jeannie's Coolpix W100 ( new a few years ago ), I have no idea of format, FPS or any other storage settings or options.
I also have a cell ph ( moto x - new a decade or 2 ago ), but have no idea on that either.

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

Thanks, Big - I appreciate the fact that it's hard to get real excited about a stubborn, foolish...
- butthead fussing with the Doors on a 30 year old, 6,000 lb. hobby.

ps: the door sounds better than the video... of course
 
#426 ·
Lol Mike, I love it!
The door does sound right.

Would it surprise you that house doors have a "sound"?
They do, it may be a little nuts but I've hung so many that now when I finish an interior 6 panel I close it with my fingertip listening for a satisfying clunk. :clap:
More than once after installing a door with the homeowner hearing that clunk I have been hired to make all the doors in the house clunk as well.

Nice job, congrats on the posts and thank you for the pictures.
 
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