Mike's 1992 Astro Resurrection / Bucket List

[sixsix]

Thanks for the build Mike, was very informative.... sound proofed my doors earlier this year, this site has been very helpful for all the things I've done either because I had to or wanted too; and thinking maybe we all should get rid of our cell phones, might make life a little easier.

I Appreciate the notice - Here's to wishing I had more Gen II stuff for X-ref.

This web site is the Best Resource and has helped me, too - cuz' it's nice when a plan comes together.

[sixsix]

When we left off, I had cleaned up the Passenger Window Motor End Cap, Bushing & Brush Holder.

Again - I have more time than anything and would gladly have changed the Motor out altogether.
If it even "Thinks about Fooling Around" - out it comes ...
- and a Brand New Augi / Malaysian/Chinese/Taiwan/Mexico Special goes in.

Like the Driver's side, it seemed to be slowing down, but not stopping completely & it works fine & quiet.
I Soldered both ends of it's Bi-metal Circuit Breaker.
This CB is a slow blow auto-resetting type for when an up/dn button is held too long.
A slow, tired motor with plenty bits of life left ( not unlike myself... sorta' ) or dirty tracks, need for clean & grease or any number of items that will tax the Motor a bit.

I removed a glob of solder, smoothed things out on both sides - managed to not melt too much Nylon.


1882 End Cap Cleanup - cont chk
One thing I forgot to check was the continuity of the soldered ends - one end is hinged slightly.
Wrung out just fine - hating the chirping pos meter. Good meter, orange chirp bad.

After looking at the piece of Work Augi got, thought I would post up my own "Window Motor Glamour Set".


1884 Motor view back overall


1886 Motor view back Delco close


1887 Motor view front gear close


1888 Motor view front overall

The goal from here on is, like the Driver's side, clean, sound deaden, lube, grease, etc.
I will be looking for a method of removing the Latch mechanism ...
- w/o removing Every Single Thing Left in there, Handle, Lock and their rods and retainers.

Here's 3 pics for ref just before the Motor and Wiring was removed/moved:


1890 Pass Rod Locations Foam pad
Yellow - "Intact Foam Pad w/ Plastic Facing" still pliable and capable of it's intended purpose... QUIET.
Red - points to real bear of a Rod Retainer that is hidden behind the Handle lever.


1891 Pass Rods Arm Rest Lock module
Red - two bottom Arm Rest rivets - Instead of drilling, I punched the steel center out with an 1/8" drift.
Then used a "Cold Chisel" to blast thru the alum rivet.


1893 Pass Latch - Access Hole
Latch Mechanism is by far, the grimiest part of the Door.
Still considering drilling an access hole for the Top Door Handle Nut R&R.
Red arrow - Lock Rod still in Lever. Bottom Rod ( Handle ) has a area of blue spray paint for ID.
Yellow is the tip of the Lock Module.


We'll get the rest apart tomorrow

[chevymaher]

It will last forever once your done.

[sixsix]

It will last forever once your done.

Ha, ha - just what I need... something else that will live past me.

Back to the Passenger Door:


1895 Pass Rivets Rods off Lock Off
The Rods need to come out from behind the Arm Rest Support and from the top "Capture Fingers" of the Lever.
Actuator Rod removed from the Lock Lever to keep it from moving around. I am leaving the Lock Module in there, if not in the way.


1895 Pass Rivets Rods off Lock Off

Finally figured it out - the weird difference: When I click on the 2nd Pic and + to enlarge - it goes to a small long box at the top of the page

I always wondered what the difference was in some of the uploaded files and how they are displayed, selected and enlarged.
The First one is directly from the Album View with the Large Pic in the middle and the previous and next pic shown in the upper corners.
The Second Pic above is from Selecting, then enlarging it by hitting the little ( nearly invisible ) boxed "Plus Sign" in the top left corner.
In both cases, Rt. Clicked on pic, then chose "Copy image address".
All my Album pics are posted with the [img] feature.

Since I am on the topic of Posted or Attached Photos - there does not seem to be much consistency in uploaded attach files.
Some you see a title, some not, some show up in "quote", some do not.
The "Attach" feature has to be one of the most frustrating features offered by the site.
Lacks intuition and professionalism.

But... like that uncle no one wants to be around, but he takes care of aunt honey ok...
- we have UPLOAD ATTACHMENT and enjoy the tor(ment and ture) everytime we use and recommend it.


On to the rest:


1897 Pass Rods and Swivel Guides Arm Rest
Previous pic showed the Rods hanging down from the Foam Pad and out of the Lock Lever.
Yellow Arrows - Under the Arm Rest Support are two "Rotating Rod Guides".
A decent amount of pull is req'd. to pop these out of the fingers.
They help keep Rod Flop Noise ( also a local garage band here ) down.


1900 Pass Door Lock cyl and Handle Bot
Being ready to start pulling stuff out - here is the view of the back end of the Lock Cylinder.
Red Arrow - Trying to remember which is the easier to do - pull off the usual metal Rod Retainer ...
- or the Cyl. Lever on the inside/back of the Lock Cyl.
Yellow - that is the Bottom bolt/nut of the Outside Handle. 3.25/3.5" ( cannot recall ) up is the other one.

Wondering if I can pull the Lock Cyl. Retainer keeping it in the Door will allow me to pull a retainer easier from the outside than trying to do it from this position using my Rt. or Left hand - the ambidextrous one here is saying...


1899 Pass Door needs a major steam clean
Well, the area covering the Mirror elecs and 2 of the 3 fasteners needs a new piece of sound deadener.
Steam Clean... well, maybe not, but a good scrubbing and alcohol prep is in order.


I live in a country that feels comfortable advertising a 1908 $20 Gold Piece Saint Gaudens "No Motto" coin for over $3400.
THEN CHARGE Shipping & Handling EXTRA.


Well, the Door... next we pull the Door Latch Mechanism, then dunk, blow and grease the Bad Girl.

[sixsix]

Last we looked - I labeled the Lock Cylinder and looked at either removing the Retainer for the Lock Rod ...
- or remove the "Strange" UNK retainer on the end of the Cylinder that holds the Lever on.


1901 Pass Door Lock Cyl Retainer
This heavy gauge, overtly strong, stubborn 28 year old gal in the Blue Arrow Outfit...
Yeah, we had words, mostly from me... mostly never heard on earth.

Seemed there was a "push the rnd tab, press back on tips"... routine, but left hand / arm would not work as well or fast.
Right arm inside / on Driver's door - not so bad. This side took small vise grips on the pointed to tab & prying back.
Screwdriver pushing the 1 end tab I could get to. Holding one leg up, etc, etc.

I really would like to change sides with the Lock Cylinder from the Driver's side.



1902 Pass Handle Nuts & Latch
The bottom 10mm nut is easy - straight thru the 1" covered access hole.
3.375" up is the other one - not much clearance to work with ...
- if you have not drilled a 1" ( or so ) hole to access it with a socket.
I do not own a 10mm ratcheting box wrench, but THAT would have DEFINITELY made this job easier.



1904 Pass Handle Upper Nut & Latch
I remembered from the other door - If I pulled the 3 screws...
- the Latch mech. can be moved enough to allow a slim socket and extension. ( Red Arrows in these 2 pics )
Again, no hole to drill - I do not expect to have to do this **** again in this lifetime.

But, hey, hey, it's fun. Right?



1906 Pass Handle both Nuts Removal
Yup, both nuts ( Yellow ) are available for removal now.
Nothing dramatic and not easy - getting things out of the way - just wiggle Rods & Latch till 'Daylight'.



1913 Pass Dr Handle Spring loose
As soon as I pulled the Handle body clear of the door to release the Rod going to the Latch ( Yellow Arrow ) ...
- The Spring ( Red Arrow ) popped off the Actuator Arm - you can see it's track ...( Red Box ).
I'll get that back on later - I hope.



1908 Pass Hndl Rod removal & retr
To pull the Latch Assembly, I removed the Inside Handle Rod ( Yellow ) / ******* Retainer ( but - they do work maddeningly well ) ( Red ) to make it easier to work down from the opening.
The other Rod - for the Lock - I can't reach yet.



1910 Pass Dr Lock Rod and Latch
Guess I was really tired, but finagling this Latch, down and out was a trick ...
- and took a bit of tongue holding and hoop jumping LOL




1915 Pass Dr Key Lock Cyl Hndl & Latch
Out of position and not belonging at all is the Short Rod ( Red Arrow ).
The Yellow Arrow is the Key Lock Rod.

Tomorrow, with time and good light, I will get closer pics of the Lock Cyl and the Lever / Retainer gadget.
Cleanup day, too - most gets Mike's Karwash & Kustom Kerosene Bubble & Bath & Blow.
Better shots of the Complicated Latch Mech. Pretty interesting, it's operation, like a good coaster brake or derailleur.

Then on to "The Grease Rack", queue up for reassembly, which follows Door Shell Cleanup and everything else.

Here's 3 pics of the Outside Handle and a few views of the Spring Catch and End.
It was a real HASSLE getting it around the right side and over the Lever edge ...
- Sucker is Strong and Spunky for it's size, shape and age. Silly thing, resisting and all to the very end...



1917 Pass Dr Handle Spring assy
Yellow Arrow - Spring "Catch", Blue is the Spring "End".



1919 Pass Dr Handle Spring assy 2
Blue is the Catch wrapped around the Lever.



1921 Pass Dr Handle Spring assy 3
Yellow - again, is the Spring Catch , Blue - End.


Handle seems to be just fine, none the worse for wear and still sits in the Door Pocket just fine.
Till next time...

[sixsix]

Close ups of the Lock Cylinder & Pics of the Latch / Associated Rods.

Set up for the Driver or Passenger Sides - Latch Actuator Lever.


1922 Pass Key Lock Cyl & Key
Magenta Arrow points to the Slot on both sides of inner Cyl. shaft. This for the Retainer to slide into.
There is no mistaking how the "Symetrical Lever" is to sit over the Center Shaft of the Key Cyl.
When the Key is inserted / pointed "teeth down", it slips into the Lock.



1924 Pass Key Lock Cyl & Rod Lever
The Lever at this point can be put on either way - Driver or Passenger.



1926 Pass Key Lock Cyl Lever & Retainer
Red points to the Retainer Point that locates in a Hole in the Lever.



1928 Pass Key Lock Cyl Retainer Slide back
Here you can see the narrowing of the Retainer Slot as it slides into the Slots of the Cyl.

Sexy talk, now...



1930 Pass Key Lever Retainer in Position
Retainer Point sitting in Hole - Locked.

Still has at least 20 degress of Lost Motion from the Key Turn to the Rod moving in the Latch.
Lever is also fairly loose axially to the shaft - putting a Bend Into the Retainer will take up some slack.
A shim in the Retainer may help eliminate some radial play.

With this the least used Lock, ( maybe back door is tighter ) there probably is not going to be any better setup.


1931 Pass Key Lock Cylinder assy Parts

Here's all the parts - ******* Lock Cyl. Retainer, Flimsy Gasket and all.

Did I get it Orientation of the Lever correct for the Passenger Door...?
No fair going back to the last Post...!!!


Now the Magnificent Door Latching Assembly "Big *** XXX Cleanup"

1933 Pass Dr Latch Handle Rods Kerosene Sauna arrangement

Thing was pretty dirty or ugly dirty or dirty as **** or downright filthy or ... it was a stinkin' mess, I tell ya'.
I wore 2 pair of gloves, 1 pair on my ... well...



1935 Pass Dr Latch Handle Rods actual Position

The purpose ( or show of Lunacy ) here is to show the relation of the Various Components ( minus the Lock Module ) within the door.
The Handle is turned in the proper orientation ( sorta' ), the Rods are in their Proper Location.
Base of the Handle in proper rotation ( again. sorta' ) to the Door Face of the Latch.



1937 Pass Dr Latch Handle Rod Pos from Above
Without a holder or rack to hang the parts from - hard to see the relation or Rod Ends to Latch Conns.
Here the Yellow points out the real short Rod that connects to the Door Handle.

That's that one that's a ***** to do when swapping Handles.

Red is the 6 inch long Rod that connects to the Key Lock Cylinder Lever.



1939 Pass Dr Latch Handle Rod Pos from Side
Different view - here again, the Yellow points to the Handle actuator Rod.
Blue Arrow is the Locking Rod for the Interior Lock Slider - with it's "Sharp S curve" for the Door Lock Lever.

That Crook will be covered with Shrink Wrap / Rubber insulator to deaden lock noise a bit - similar to the White Rubber Coating used on the Gen II doors. The Door mounted Lock Lever "Fingers" will be coated also. Best I can, anyway.



1940 Pass Dr Latch from Afar & Plastic bits

Here's to the Rod Ends that never get any recognition - they never break, never wear out, never ask for a raise.
Some Don't Even Get Into Their Own Recognition Photograph Group Shot.

What are those rubbery, crumbly blacks things with the Red Circle?
They were not stuck to any magnet - they came out in the wash and tried to 'get lost' real quick and stealthy.
2 more things broke off and are still laying in the Kerosene Bath - as we speak or read or ramble... or ramble...



1942 Pass Dr Latch Plastic bits Close up

They don't look like Rod Bearings or Hose Clamps or the Rubber nubs on new hoses.
As I cleaned the Latch rather aggressively with a toothbrush and held my tongue right, 2 more retention knobby-like things fell into the Kerosene Tub of Disintegration.

I'll get after them tomorrow - keep tabs of all my small bits of anonymous rubber whatevers.


On other News...

"A Kidney Stone Thread" - wow, just wow. Can't wait to read about Cluster Heaache Med Lineup Topics and Oxygen Replenishment Equipment Show off threads. LOL really... sadly

[stent]

hi mike,

mike's pool

i just scrolled through your last string of photos & with the quick glance i thought the tub in this pic was actually floating in a pool.
it's not even happy hour yet!!

[WoodButcher]

Kidney stones circled in red?

[sixsix]

Kidney stones circled in red?

LOL, Floating Kidneys Stones Circled in Red in a Pool with Stent - Haha.

And they seem to be Circular & Repetitious...

Multiplying Floating Kidney Stones

Oh my!!

[sixsix]

Again... on to more Seemingly Endless Prattle n' Pics of Door Innards.
Some Interesting, some not so much.



1948 Pass Latch loose Rubber bits
Lost quite a bit of the Rubber cushion from the sides/bottom of the Latch.
In Blue - 2 little knobs that were poked thru the marked holes held it in place.

Like the other door - did not affect performance, did not notice noise or excessive rattling or looseness.



1949 Pass Latch close up -72A-
In case I need to get a replacement - might as well start looking - 72 A stamped into the sheet metal.



1951 Pass Latch close up -2 8 or B-
Here's a view of the marks on the other side - also stamped - 2 B or 2 8, not sure.
If anyone has any NOS or low years replacement that are not an arm & a leg, first born, etc., Please let me know.



1953 Pass Dr Latch & Hndl Grease Station
Found a .005" Shim was the best and easiest to get grease into all the cams, discs and levers.
And a small bristle brush like a glue applicator.



1955 Pass Dr outside Cleaned up
Sheetmetal cleaned of old duct tape and insul. goop.



1957 Driver Door Hndl Rubber Grommet
Blue pointing to the Handle Stop Grommet on the Driver's Door that does not sit Flush.
This Handle is new - got it from Rockauto - do not have Part no. or Info.



1944 Pass Handle Stop Grommet Close up
Circled - the Grommet that is too short or Squat on some Door Handles.



1946 Pass Handle Stop Grommet Close up 2
Here's a pic of the same 'Stopper', from the inside.



1959 Pass Door Hndl Sitting behind flush
Or maybe, "Below Flush".



1960 Pass Door Hndl Sitting behind flush 2
Another view of the New Handle that does not sit in a correct orientation to coincide with the door sheet metal.



1961 Pass Door Hndl .063 Shim
That happens to be 'file card material" for a total thickness of about 1/16" - .063" - 1.6mm.



1962 Pass Door Hndl Sitting flush
A much better look - no doubt - albeit temporary.



1964 Pass Door Hndl Sitting flush 2
Beauty shot from a different angle - Golly!!

I am going to look for some various Grommets to try - We have a "Grommets and Teacups are Us" here in Edgewood.



1966 Pass Door Window motor .255 Drill
Did get to the Motor drilling - just a tad over the 1/4-20 SHCS I plan to use with SS Locknuts.


1968 Pass Door Window Regulator .255 Drill
Like the Motor, the screws will just fit in the 4 oversize holes.

Glad I had a catch cloth down in the bottom - made the clean up a snap. Still blew and vacuumed down in the crevices and ensured the drain/weep holes are open. There is one in the Front & the Back 'thin edge'/crimp.

[Rod's Trucks]

GREAT Write-up and photos.
Thanks for the tutorial.

[Ironsides]

Wow sixsix, your van does look like new!
Just seen that pic of the front and inside the engine compartment, wow.

Your attention to detail for the interior and work is top notch, I had no idea it looks like that.
Awesome!

[sixsix]

Thanks guys - Like I said in the "Love" thread...
Transport, Hobby, Love, Hate, Habit, Pit, Rescue... etc, etc

Going on 27 years now.

[sixsix]

On and on with the Passenger Door.
Got a couple things done, quieting some linkage and recording wiring / tape / retainer locations.


1969 Pass Dr Heat gun Dorman Shrink wrap
Seems I posted a few of these before, but still, this Dorman Set is cheap and easy to get - Au0Z0ne.
2 level Heat gun was about $5 w/ disc. at Harder Fright.
Before getting it, I used to just wave my soldering iron close to it. Idiocy...



1971 Pass Dr Shrink wrap Lock Rod
Cut up a few pcs. 1/2" long to get past the bends - perfect. I ended up doing 2 layers.



1973 Pass Dr Shrink wrap Lock Lever with Rod
This will deaden a lot of the 'Rod Clatter' ...
- that Gen II Interiors have taken better care of with Rubberized Coatings std.


I got some New Electrical tape - TESA - at the recommendation of... I can't remember...
But if it is good enough for Audi, VW, Mercedes and most other affiliated European Brands - it'll work for me.



1975 Pass Dr - TESA Elec Tape pliable soft sticky
Couple bucks per roll, super sticky, soft, pliable - feels like cloth - insulates and has heat protectant built - in.
Rolls are 19mm wide by about 50 feet long - roll is about 4" in diameter.
Regular rubber/plastic elec. tape is only 2.5" Diam. with the same width.

Recorded a few views of the door's Wiring, Tape, Retainers, etc for later use.



1977 Pass Dr - L S Elec tape & Retnr Locs
Left Side
Blue is one of the 'Taped Down' Plastic Retainers, Yellow - the Window Motor Conn.



1979 Pass Dr - L C Elec tape-plug & Retnr Locs
Left Center
Wiring ID White tag has date of 1/6/1992 - close to dates I have seen on other components.
Again, Blue is one of the Retainers, Yellow is the Window Control Conn., Red is the Lock Control Conn.



1980 Pass Dr - R C Elec tape & Retnr Locs
Right Center
2nd of the Retainers and they used some weird Olive Drab duct tape also to hang from the door in a few locations.



1982 Pass Dr - R S Elec tape & Retnr Locs
Right Side
Blue is the rt. sd. Retainer, Yellow, the Lock Motor Conn.
These and the Pics prior to tear down will help in routing and tucking in properly.

After Taping and associated Wiring setup - I'll post the rest of the shots.

[chevymaher]

Well get er done there mike.

[90safari]

Whenever I see Mike's door pics, it makes me glad that my 88 has manual doors, with nothing powered inside them (less stuff to go bad). I still can't believe he tore into them, and removed all of that preservative (grease).

[stent]

hi mike,
i'm trying to learn how to add arrows & circles to pictures like you do but i'm not quite there yet............

young johnny ca$h

it was all about the finger until i covered it up - now i can't figure out how to get him back the way he was so i can start over

[stent]

!!! OK I CAN DO THIS !!!

tellytummy

[sixsix]

You have the "Cash to Tummy Transformation Thing" down pat... WTF.

I'll be back later to talk about "Lines n' Circles in Elements" & Succeeding in a Forum Pic Edit.


Film @ 11

[sixsix]

Whenever I see Mike's door pics, it makes me glad that my 88 has manual doors, with nothing powered inside them (less stuff to go bad). I still can't believe he tore into them, and removed all of that preservative (grease).

Sitting in the Driver's seat, I can't imagine trying to roll that Window up - seems like 3 miles away.
I am trying to picture an average Mom - not hapnin'. LOL

Sure I can squat, waddle and lean over ( just imagine while I'm doing 45 on an entrance ramp ), but then it's so hot waiting for the toll booth ( no, we have none - YET in the tri-state ), can't get the Window down w/o nearly parking it.
The old days were easier with bench seats - we used to just smooosh over n' get er' done.

And about that Cosmolene or other Preservervative. Well, we were very smart to scrape , soak and save it all for future use.
After we got the Latch Greased, Oiled and Lithiumed up, we judiciously spread the left over Stuff at the pivot pts.

I tell ya', it brought it right back to life - Miraculous, to say the Most.

I and we and most others should always remember the 5 Ps:
Prior Planning Puts grease on the Pivot Points.