2000 AWD Cargo. The van i always wanted

[Leeann_93]

[Leeann_93]

And

[jrsride2002]

DUUUUUDDEEE!!!!! YYEEESSSS!!!!!

OK, after looking at the schematics, I THINK I crossed the black wires on the 4 wired connector...
My logic:
I know my pump gets power, from the purple wire, from the 4 wire connector.
Then its, "grounded" through the grey wire of the 3 wire connector.
Seeing as there are 2 different black wires going to/from the 4 wire connector. I believe I simply crossed those up, feeding power to my pump and(via the under hood relay) at the wrong time..... I think....

I've never been good with electrical stuff.... Second opinion, anybody?
~Junior

[jrsride2002]

Nope, that didn't work. I cut an retied the lines together, nothing changed. Cut and retied the two wires to the fuel pump, same results. Cut and retied the grey wires together, nothing happened at all. Put all the wires back the way I had them at the start of the day, back to priming with the in the OFF position. Put in a good fuel pump relay, no change.

Guys I am now lost. Where did I go wrong with the wiring?? I'm going to pick up a cheapo fuel pump, see if the issue persists. If it does, then my Walbro fuel pump is good, if not then the Walbro pump may have crossed polarities... I need some thoughts and help.

Thanks,
~Junior

[WoodButcher]

Confirm once again you have fire will it run on ether? You have done work on both sides of the equation, fuel and spark. Is it possible now you have fuel but no spark because the new coil is bad? You need to check again and be certain.

[jrsride2002]

Confirm once again you have fire will it run on ether? You have done work on both sides of the equation, fuel and spark. Is it possible now you have fuel but no spark because the new coil is bad? You need to check again and be certain.

Hey WB,
I am confident, that it is a fuel issue. The symptoms are this:
I turn the key on, I hear the pump.
I turn the key off, I hear the pump, again.
I turn the key on a second time, I do NOT hear the pump.
I turn the key off a second time, I hear the the pimp.

No matter how many times I turn the key on/off, that is what is going on. A friend of mine, thinks the pump may have been configured wrong, from the manufacture. He believes the polarities are crossed, which is why I am going to pick up a pump from NAPA, hook up the wiring, "bench test" the NAPA pump, then return the NAPA pump.

Another thought/possibility came to me shortly after my previous post.
Could my issues be the sending unit itself?? I know I screwed up the wiring harness by cutting through it with the angle grinder, but could the sending unit have been affected by my wiring patch job?
The other reason I am going to NAPA, I plan on getting the complete fuel pump assembly.

Thanks again,
~Junior

[jrsride2002]

I GOT HER TO FIRE UP!!!!

I have been waiting for some help on ANY kind of idea(other than my ghetto rigging idea)... Had no responses, so I did my ILL desired ghetto rigging. What I did, was run a dedicated power line to the pump, hooked the pump up to the sending unit(as you normally would), then everything worked as it should.

Please, allow me to show you.....

Dedicated power line for the pump. Couldn't close the fuel tank because of the line....



Power switch to run the pump, when I wanted to run the van. Used a 50A switch from my local radio shack for $6(I think)....


Wire connection points....


Please understand, I DON'T RECOMMEND ANYONE TO DO THIS!!! I am doing it out a need/nessesity because I am moving. Have nearly everything moved minus the project van. I have to be out tomorrow, and this worked.... Unsafely, but worked...

OK, lets hear comments. I know i'm going to get some deserved "heated" posts/comments/remarks AND I WELCOME THEM,
~Junior


EDIT: I am still kind of thinking my problem may be the sending unit... I will order a bare sending unit from ebay, and see how it goes.

[jrsride2002]

OK. Well I moved it, in the ghetto fashion it is in. I burn out the new fuel pump, because I forgot to turn it off, once I got it loaded onto the trailer. So had to push it off the trailer.

Overall, not a big deal. The pump is still under warenty, so all i have to do is send it back to LA and wait for the new one. Which well be fine, I will be ordering my new ebay sending unit, and will wait for it as well.

So, some good news, some not so good news.....
~Junior

[jrsride2002]

Well, i've been all moved in. Lost that working drive, gave it some time. Now the drive is back

I don't know why it took me so long to get an extra set of floor stands, but I finally got some. I FINALLY put all for corners in the air. Crawled around underneath, just to get a better view of what I have to work on.

I think the front diff, is a j/y replacement. The housing has that paint marker writing on it, label looks like, "110". That doesn't change the fact, that I am going to be looking/replacing it with a S-10 ZR2 diff...


Factory lower ball joints...


Factory lower control arm bushings....


Aftermarket upper ball joins...


I found this mysterious hanger, behind the gas tank. I don't have any clue as to what it is for. Anyone know???


Also have this mystery wire just behind the rear bumper, driver side. I'll have to trace it down then, realistically remove whatever it is attached to...


I'm going to look into replacing front end stuff now. Tie rods, ball joints, etc... The suspension is SHOT, on all four corners. Which is fine, i'm going to lift it anyways. But the van won't be able to fit in the garage, when I lift it. So I will be building it to a, "dependable" status until it is time for the suspension. THEN I will be doing ad-ons and mods.

So much to do, but I MUST stay focused on ONE task at a time,
~Junior

[icebrrg3rd]

That "mysterious" hanger behind the gas tank is for your parking brake cable that crosses over to the passenger side. I can see the cable in that pic directly below the hanger.

-Andrew

[jrsride2002]

That "mysterious" hanger behind the gas tank is for your parking brake cable that crosses over to the passenger side. I can see the cable in that pic directly below the hanger.

-Andrew

Yes, both cables are present. Thanks. I'm planning on replacing those cables, the tensioner is just about as far as they can go

~Junior

[icebrrg3rd]

That "mysterious" hanger behind the gas tank is for your parking brake cable that crosses over to the passenger side. I can see the cable in that pic directly below the hanger.

-Andrew

Yes, both cables are present. Thanks. I'm planning on replacing those cables, the tensioner is just about as far as they can go

~Junior

Not sure if I am understanding your response. That hanger is for the parking brake cable. It's to hold the passenger side cable up and out of the way.

Mine has cables from both sides in it temporarily while I was swapping out the rear end.

-Andrew

[jrsride2002]

[
Not sure if I am understanding your response. That hanger is for the parking brake cable. It's to hold the passenger side cable up and out of the way.
Mine has cables from both sides in it temporarily while I was swapping out the rear end.
-Andrew

What I am referring to is the the link, between the one cable from the peddle, and the two cables to the rear breaks. The cables are, nearly, stretched all the way free. So I am in no hurry to place the cables on the hanger.

~Junior

[jrsride2002]

FINALLY got the call back on the burnt out fuel pump. It will NOT be covered under warranty because of the "contamination" going through the pump. The contamination turned out to be rust, and any sort of contamination is not covered under warranty. How did rust get in there?? The seller supplied(no option for it) a 70 micron fuel pump screen. Which is also a void for warranty product. I forgot to ask what kind of micron screen is required, but I really don't care. I do swear by the company, and will stand by my choice for going with their product over AC Delco. When I do some more mods, I will get another Walbro pump, drop it in the tank. So got a new CHINESE pump, with a life time warranty. From the same supplier, not really what I wanted to do. They offered a free replacement of "their" pump. And with the rust in the tank, I intent to be replacing the pump a couple of times, just out of spite. But first, I have to deal with that rust. Screen or no screen, I want that crap out of there. I can't blame the PO for getting cheap fuel, but this is the main reason to pay a few extra cents at the pump. For now, I will run the Chinese pump until the tank is cleared out, and the fuel system is complete. A long way to go still, but i'm slowly chugin' along.

~Junior

[Lumpy]

FINALLY got the call back on the burnt out fuel pump. It will NOT be covered under warranty because of the "contamination" going through the pump...

Refresh my memory, please. What kind of pump was it that they didn't cover?


Lump

[jrsride2002]

Refresh my memory, please. What kind of pump was it that they didn't cover?
Lump

A pump that had a inadequate screen, supplied by the seller. Not the manufacture. I do not hold the manufacture at fault, for the seller distributing cheaper parts.

[chevymaher]

Refresh my memory, please. What kind of pump was it that they didn't cover?
Lump

A pump that had a inadequate screen, supplied by the seller. Not the manufacture. I do not hold the manufacture at fault, for the seller distributing cheaper parts.

Ah the old screen pump then.

[Lumpy]

I guess I find it really weird that there's a strainer available that's NOT the proper micron size to validate the warranty. What, did someone go out and design one that's not to spec? The cost of the strainer is like five bucks. Who would bother to design a non-spec version at that price?


Lump

[jrsride2002]

The cost of the strainer is like five bucks.
Lump

Correct. From the manufacture, the cost is $5, and would be valid for any warranty issue.

What, did someone go out and design one that's not to spec?

Horse power freaks.

Who would bother to design a non-spec version at that price?

The Chinese??

[Lumpy]

What, did someone go out and design one that's not to spec?

Horse power freaks.

Who would bother to design a non-spec version at that price?

The Chinese??

Ah... I can see forums full of pissed off ricers now. All complaining about how they only got a 5 hp increase with the "Full Flow" aftermarket fuel strainer. The one that they paid forty-nine bucks for.


Lump