Ole Yellar build thread.

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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby rev_les » June 26th 2010, 3:12pm

Always better to overbuild it, than to take shortcuts and end up re-doing it anyway eh? I haven't built a 383 (yet) but don't you have to use a reduced base circle cam to clear the crank throws? I like that yellow, btw....similar to one of the options I'm looking at for my 82 P/U.......though I'm leaning to Alice Chalmers Orange. (yeah it's a farm equipment color)
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » June 27th 2010, 1:16am

Clearance issues are with the pan rail where we found about the thickness of a paper clip is just about right and as you said the base circle of the cam lobes which much of that has to do with rod length and which rods you buy being the better ones are already clearance for a given cam lift.We have built a number of 383's for the race operation over the yrs.The nice part about hydro roller cams is the high lift with quick ramp speeds.Makes it so much easier.And yeah we will be checking the cam with rods installed for any interferences.It's the lobe centers being tight at 109 that is impart of the torque building I seek.I know of guys that have used a .040 head gasket with a 76cc head and have the crank ground for use of a 6" rod without needing to go into the ring land with the piston pin and a decent street compression ratio.Wisco has dished pistons and I know those guys pretty well.I am a believer of the longest rod playing a role in building torque and that is huge for street driven vehicles.And that statement is NOT a opening for a prolonged debate about long rod vs short rods.It is my history and experiences playing a role in what I want to do if a 383 is going to be the route we take.We just need to remember these vans weight is in the 4,000lbs area and needs as much torque as we mustard up to get them moving.

Thank you all for your interest in this project.
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby rev_les » June 27th 2010, 4:35am

[email protected] debate over rod length... you're absolutely correct in longer rods making more torque..it's been proven time and time again.
Speaking of roller cams...do you know if a '95 5.7 truck engine is gonna be a roller, or just have the bosses ready to be drilled and tapped for the lifter spider? It's nice to know someone who has some real world experience with the 383's so if I decide to go that route later with the G body I know who to talk to . :dance:
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » June 27th 2010, 6:56am

rev_les wrote:[email protected] debate over rod length... you're absolutely correct in longer rods making more torque..it's been proven time and time again.
Speaking of roller cams...do you know if a '95 5.7 truck engine is gonna be a roller, or just have the bosses ready to be drilled and tapped for the lifter spider? It's nice to know someone who has some real world experience with the 383's so if I decide to go that route later with the G body I know who to talk to . :dance:


Les,

1995 is a transitional GM yr for the 5.7's like on our vans.Best bet is to pull the intake and take a peek.
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » July 1st 2010, 3:49am

Got the engine down to a short block.Going slow bagging all the parts and labeling them.Glad I took this apart.Seeing where some rust issues where starting to developing from setting too long.Nothing real bad,but not what I wanted.Hit it hard with LPS III.Lifter valley isn't as clean as I would want it either.Found the head casting numbers where EFI's from what looks like a 1989 5.7.Just a surprise I didn't expect.Thought they where 1995's.Not that it matters much because I intended to replace them anyways.Sure is important to know what you have through.That is the whole point of tearing this down.Going to tear it down to a bare block to save some labor costs at the machine shop.Might just buy a HF engine stand.Craigslist so far isn't producing anything.Still no pic's.........kind of what is the point when the puter that accepts my camera program is still down. :banghead: Kind of bummed out about that,but would rather spend money on engine stands and a cherry picker right now.Really should get a new card for the camera and fresh batteries too.

More to come.............
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby webcat » July 1st 2010, 4:31am

Gary wrote:Found the head casting numbers where EFI's from what looks like a 1989 5.7.Just a surprise I didn't expect.Thought they where 1995's.

I always thought 1987 ---1995 heads were pretty simular and 1996 Vortec heads is were they got better.
I dont know if theres anything special about the bottom end 1996 block or if its the same block used for the TBI engines.
Keep up the good work son. :thumbup:
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » July 1st 2010, 5:03am

webcat wrote:
Gary wrote:Found the head casting numbers where EFI's from what looks like a 1989 5.7.Just a surprise I didn't expect.Thought they where 1995's.

I always thought 1987 ---1995 heads were pretty simular and 1996 Vortec heads is were they got better.
I dont know if theres anything special about the bottom end 1996 block or if its the same block used for the TBI engines.
Keep up the good work son. :thumbup:


This one is a four bolt main.
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » July 24th 2010, 4:17am

Got it down to the last two piston/rods to come out.Then the only thing to do will be remove the crank and cam before going to the machine shop.I am finding rod bearings that look worn.The more I look,I am real glad I torn it down.The driver's side senor fell apart when I just touched it.The water jackets for the temp sensor are plugged with junk.It was no doubt time to refreshen this engine.Going to take my veneers next time I go to work on it and see if I can get a ruff measurement of the bores and pistons.Still got my fingers crossed for a standard bore :banana:
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » July 26th 2010, 4:16am

Got it torn down to the bare block and I am calling the machine shop tomorrow.I took my mic's with me and I got a ruff measurement.Looking like a 4" bore.Woo-ha.If that is confirmed by the machine shop,well it's going to be a 383 when done. :banana: :banana:

I got pic's and will post them once I get my XP computer repaired.
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Dirk » July 26th 2010, 1:03pm

From this I understand a 350 can be easily machined out to be a 383?
I'm thinking about putting in a V8 as well, think it'll be a 305 those blocks are very easy to come by over here and they're cheaper than the 350.
If I where to go for a 350 I'd be looking for a donor vehicle, the bare engine costs the same a rotten car with a good 350 in it.

At the moment it's still just a thought I'm still considering my options.
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby astroturf » July 26th 2010, 2:53pm

Gary wrote:Got it torn down to the bare block and I am calling the machine shop tomorrow.I took my mic's with me and I got a ruff measurement.Looking like a 4" bore.Woo-ha.If that is confirmed by the machine shop,well it's going to be a 383 when done. :banana: :banana:

I got pic's and will post them once I get my XP computer repaired.


Good to see your progress Gary.

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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » July 29th 2010, 4:14am

Bore checked by machine shop today with dial bore gauge and found to be able to be bored to .030.As long as the rest checks out,looks like I will be building a roller 383.
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby chevy57bertchevy57bert is online! » July 29th 2010, 5:25pm

Why would you build a roller? You want to make serious Power or is there something else you thinking off Gary?
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » July 30th 2010, 1:38am

The engine is a 1996 with the bosses and holes taped for a hydro roller cam.The cam I have chosen is a GM cam with the part number of:14097395 and it's spec's are duration 288/309,lift of 431/451 and with a lobe center of 109.Really not that big of a cam,but one that will multiply the torque of this stroker 383.
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » July 30th 2010, 2:11pm

As I am shopping for a 383 stroker assemblies,I found the following.

Both Eagle and Scat are a china import.

Some comments posted about the Scat cast and cast steel cranks that the rod journals where found to be out of round right out of the box and some cranks broke behind number one journal because they had stress cracks when forged.Here the breaking part I have to ask myself if the correct balancer was used or if the end user was straying the engine and caused the problem.Scats are finsihed machined here in the US.

Eagle are finished machined off shore and from the comments I have read are poorly machined.Rod journals are not usable and the cranks are in some cases,can't be balanced at all.

This is a early on investigation and as I find out more I will post that.

Another brand name I am looking at is Howards which seems to have a good history and is US made and machined.Costs more and has some weird stroke combo's.Question here is if you save on the cranks and spend tons more for custom pistons.
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby chevy57bertchevy57bert is online! » July 30th 2010, 5:25pm

It all depends all on how much power you wanna make.
and the size off your wallet. :mrgreen:
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » July 31st 2010, 3:44am

Bert,

I think it is a question of what is reliable over the long term.We all read about mods done and what the results where in the short term,but I know I have seen the results in the long term and to look into customer comments of products purchased for those mod's isn't a bad thing.

You know Bert when I read about cranks right out of the box that aren't even usable or break shortly after using them,it isn't a ringing endorsement.Honestly hasn't much to do with how fast I want to go or spend.

Trust me,I have in my past,found companies selling pure junk that have huge advertising budgets.Or companies that sell you products that need big bucks to finish the mod.Of course they don't tell you that at first.

Real street experiences does reveal the true facts.I do think forums like these help tons.Guys post facts they find and sometimes their misfortune buying the junk that is out their.

This build is all about towing,some street fun,and how many miles I am going to get out of this build.Something like 200,000 miles or more would be what I am after.
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » August 1st 2010, 6:17am

Here is what I found about Eagle vs Scat crankshafts and rods.Because the nature of my search,I looked at comments from other forums to get customer's feedback.Because of that,all I can say is the Scat 9000 series cranks or better are worth putting in any money into them and the Scat 7/16 stroker rods seem to be a good deal.Now if I where to go to the Scat steel forge crank,it is only $100 bucks cheaper than the Howards crank and that seems to be a much better pc.

And now for the Eagle brand name.Out of spec,breaking cranks,taper'ed journals,you name it,just pure junk.From machine shops to customers all said the same thing.So I suggest that it isn't in the running with me any longer.Not their cranks,nor their rods.
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby Gary [OP] » December 3rd 2010, 1:39am

The idea of Ole Yellar is a concept as a project.Not necessary one van or the other.

I think I said this at the beginning of this thread,but if I didn't,I am 63yrs old and this will be the last build I will do.It is very important to me that it is the very best I can afford and it is all the things I have learned about hot rodding over let's say 50 yrs.

The pictured yellow high top conversion van you see I have had for about 3yrs.I bought it and dolly towed it back from Tenn. to Roch,NY.It has never failed me and took me to wherever I wanted to go.Become a very good friend.Doesn't owe me a dime.But to use it as the body for this project given the advancing rust issues become more and more unlikely.

Now I almost never surf Cragslist in the cars and truck section.Just by chance I found this ad:

http://rochester.craigslist.org/cto/2084736499.html

So out of curiosity I contacted the seller and took a look on Tuesday.
Any other time I bought either the donor V8 Astro van or the Ole Yellar high top van I had to travel to get them home.But the seller wasn't going to move at all on the price.The top of the van has the normal rust paint peeling thing going on and the van's owner before this one pounded down apart of the drivers wheelwell which resulted in a rust hole.But the rest of it is clean and rust free.Solid for very sure.When I shot the seller a offer and he said not a penny less,I walked out of the sale.The idea of a rust free won out.The roof rust isn't a factor because I would be installing the roof from Ole Yellar anyways.

Sooooooo,guys I am very happy to announce I have purchased this 1989 cagro van that will get the conversion high top and become the body for my Ole Yellar project.I will have it home at the end of the month.I am very excited about this because I think it is a major step in getting it done.
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Gary
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Firing on 4 Cylinders (L3)
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Re: Ole Yellar build thread.

Postby 94 Van Guy » December 3rd 2010, 2:01am

Congrats Gary, I knew you wanted to get this project on the road, so to speak. I looked at the donor van, it looks like you will be happy with that one.

Now to work, I am looking forward to the build, and will be following close.

Good luck Gary,

Keith
'91 Chevy G30 Bus 39.3K Miles


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