Dave's '04 AWD Camper Build

[dmilamj]

So I started work on the folding plywood platform portion of the seat. The idea is to have two panels that are hinged off the front edge of the seat base and that fold up underneath the seat.

Here's test fitting the plywood and hinge location.


Here are the 3/4" plywood panels, 16" deep each and about 47" wide. I've routed the edges except along the hinge side. The hinges are standard steel door butt hinges, $10 at the hardware store. I had to route a little channel for the hinge barrel as well as mortise the hinge plates.

Chisel for scale:


Test fitting underneath the folding platform:



Cut out the stock mounting point threaded plates:



Weld in some angle for a flat mounting point for the hinges:



Test fit base with folding platform extended:


Test fit folded:



More to come....

[Lumpy]

This is really a great project.



Doesn't this just beat the heck out of going down to the new car dealer, forking over $960 a month for the next eleven years and getting in return a car that looks like every other car in the neighborhood? And smells like Chinese rubber on top of all that.


Lump

[dmilamj]

I'll update the seat build in a bit with some more photos, but I've got a quick question:

I'm thinking of attaching my house battery at an angle in front of the rear wheel hump. I need to attach a battery tray to the sloping part of the rear drivers wheel hump. Any thoughts about the best way to do that? I was thinking bolts with a fender washer to attach the tray through the wheel hump sheet metal. There would be a visible bolt/fender washer inside the wheel well. Is that an issue? If the tire gets up that high, it would be a bad rub to have a bolt sticking out. I will trim the bolts to get them as short as possible.

[Lumpy]

Insert the bolt from the outside, in the wheel well. The tire will never get up that close. That's like 1/4" from the inside of the wheel well. If the wheel/tire moves that much, you've got other, boinker problems.

The obvious problem is the compound concave, convex curves of the wheel well. I suppose you could build complex curve surface washers for the inside and outside. Cargo will be along in a minute to explain how to do that. But I think simpler is to disregard the curves, use regular diameter washers (not fender washers) and distribute the stresses between three points. Nylon washers under the steel, RTV sealer, torque them not TOO tight, drive it.


Lump

[deafman]

We haven't seen a post from you in a few years Dave. How are you and the van?

[sixsix]

HE WAS JUST VISITING THE OTHER DAY... WHY NOT PM HIM AS I DOUBT HE CHECKS IN OFTEN.

[AstroWill]

That is a sweet van that Dave has. Low mileage, great year, pop-top.

Dave, hope you are out there in the wild enjoying life and your van!