NEW CV Axles

[Mmusicman]

I'm installing NEW CV axles tomorrow... old ones are shot.

Looks like I'll be doing new seals too, since one is now leaking.
Unsure about bearings...

I've never done this job before, it's all new to me.
Any advice or suggestions welcome.

[MI_Ghost]

Just off the top of my head.
Use new locking nuts on the hub end.
The stub shaft (driver side) will likely stick in the old shaft when you pull it.
Pre-soak the hub bolts with PB Blaster (even better if you can let soak overnight)

What condition are the ball joints in?

[Mmusicman]

What condition are the ball joints in?

Unknown.. but I've already bought new CV axles.
They were surprisingly inexpensive shipped.

Now I'm just trying to locate axle bearings and seals. These parts do not appear to be very common, and it's seems a little tricky trying to figure out exactly what I need. Looks like I need a Timkin/National 710491 seal.

I know the seals need replacement, since one is now dripping.. but it's uncertain if I need to replace the bearings too, or what is involved to changing them. Or maybe it's just bushings? I've never really looked at the front differential, so I have no idea what is involved to service it either.

The front CV axle has been making a little noise for the last 6 months (wasn't even sure if it was the cv axles or the tires), but last week it really starting getting bad.. and the leak at the seal confirmed it. This is why I'm not sure if bearings or bushings should be replaced at this time as well, or not.

This will be a new learning experience for me.

I did find a good parts/assembly diagram:
https://nemiga.com/cat_spares/epc/chevr ... /tm06-090/

[Mmusicman]

1st roadblock: What size is the axle nut at the hub?
I found and purchased a 36mm, which fit.
(Advance Auto around the corner from me carried it)

[The Drummer]

I do beleive your correct about the nut being 36mm , however a few weeks back i used a 1 inche 7/16 or 5/8 , 1/4 , cant remember but there is an SAE socket that fits .

[Leeann_93]

36mm

I got the seals at rockauto.

Putting the axle back in can take a little more force than you expect. Once you have the splines lined up, shove it in good.

[Mmusicman]

Putting the axle back in can take a little more force than you expect. Once you have the splines lined up, shove it in good.

Wow.. isn't THAT the truth! I wish I had known sooner... I spent a lot of time fighting the re-installation of the CV axle.. it just wasn't going in. I thought it was the c-clips causing the issue.. but found out in the end it was the very thick and sturdy new seal hanging things up. I finally managed to force it in.

The job is completed (well almost)! What a pain!!
I don't wish this job on ANYONE!!

I only did the driver side, the side that was leaking and making noise. Turns out the old cv axle was not bad. The noise and vibration is coming from a BAD hub bearing.. totally grinding and wiped-out. New part will be ordered, unless I find it locally.

There wasn't much fluid in the differential either, but it didn't look particularly bad either, that I could tell. I didn't change any bearings at the axles... just too difficult. I didn't see any noticeable issues with the existing ones.

I still have the passenger side to do, I hear that is much easier. I started taking it apart, but ran out of time. I need the van for a show tomorrow.

At least now I know how it all comes apart now.

[Leeann_93]

I thought I was breaking something - had to have my husband come out and double-check me

He said, just give it a good shove - like this! And shoved it all the way in. And it was fine.

I have pics about halfway down this page:
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10966&start=180

You'll need a 9/16" socket, thinner wall. I tried to use my impact socket but it was too thick to fit through the hole. There're three holes in the hub. The larger one is the one you stick your socket through, so just rotate the hub to get to each bolt in turn. Use the biggest breaker bar you have. Spray PB in the back of the hub bolt holes (they're open at the back for some reason known only to GM) and, of course, at the heads. Apply some heat right after doing so to the knuckle to try to suck the PB in if you can.

Of course, since you're in Florida, it might not be as bad as my '99 that was used as an airport shuttle in all weather - and apparently never had the undercarriage washed.

[Mmusicman]

This will be another new experience for me too.
Thanks Leeann

[TurnNburn]

Did you ever track down bearings for the axles? Or did you opt out of doing them?

[Mmusicman]

Did you ever track down bearings for the axles? Or did you opt out of doing them?

I did purchase the "needle bearing"... but elected not to change it when I couldn't figure out how to even remove it... or IF it even needed to be removed in the first place. I only changed the seal.. which was a bit of a job in itself, since you have to remove the side-plate (6 bolts) to hammer out the old one, and press in the new one.

Unfortunately, I now have a tiny drip... not sure if it's the new seal (possibly damaged with my numerous attempts to get shaft back in), or the side-plate, or something else? I've been to busy to look. The side plate also has some kind of gasket/seal (which I did not have new), so I re-used it with a slight film of silicone. Looks like I may have to go back in at some point.

[Mmusicman]

UPDATE:

I replaced the defective hub with new. The 3 heavy-duty bolts were accessed with a standard 15mm socket... broke loose thought the face of the unit with a breaker bar... and the unit came out with a few whacks.

I was quite surprised how easy the job was to do, but apparently I may have just been fortunate.

Thanks LeeAnn for the tips and help.

[Leeann_93]

I'm glad it was easier than mine