in need of a wire diagram for a astro van 1993

[Txdk]

i need a wire diagram over the part in circled with blue in the image i uploaded for an astro van from 93

[zzimmer3]

A Haynes manual has some diagrams in the rear of the books. They've helped me on my wiring trouble on my jeep (although they do lack greatly in other areas). For less than $20 from auto zone you could pick one up. There are service manuals that have incredible amounts of info, I've yet to score a set yet. There a tad pricey, so I'm stalking eBay for a deal someday.

[Txdk]

already have haynes and it calls it (power distribution system) on the starting and charging circuits wire diagram and thats all there is in the haynes about it.

have tried GM SI 1980-2009.iso and GM Esi.iso to but they only have service bulletins for cars older the 2000

[JaxSPL]

If that is the molex plug right behind the battery, there is no real wiring diagram for it. The battery + goes to it, and all 4 of the wires, with fusible links, go to it. That's it.

I just ran into a problem with it on my van. To fix it, I removed the battery + wire and put the fusible linked wires directly to the battery + terminal. That eliminated one weak link. Why do I say weak link? The molex plug is actually not rated for the amperage that goes through it. That is what causes the plug to melt around the pins in it. Why Chevy decided to do that we will never know.

[Txdk]

it is the molex plug right behind the battery one of the wires going from it has melted and now i am trying to figure out what it is for without taking the entire car apart

[JaxSPL]

Sounds like the normal problem with these vans. I even replaced the plug with a good one from the junkyard, but it didn't work.

From right to left, as you're looking at it plugged in.

1) Brake Pressure Modulator valve
2) Stop/Hazzard fuse and Power ACC Circuit
3) Hi A/C Blower relay
4) headlight switch assembly

I believe that is right. I got that info from the 4th post in this topic: viewtopic.php?f=76&t=14351

Like I say, I had some problem with that plug. I cut the plug off and put wire lugs on each wire. Then I attached the wires to the battery positive post, using an extended side post connector. It works great and I won't have the problem with that plug burning out. Seems the plug will melt before the fusible link will pop.

[markmitch]

I have an 88 parts van if that will work I can possibly remove the whole thing and send it - you pay shipping and its yours. Mark

[WoodButcher]

In the FSM all 4 wires are fusible links. The pin out left to right in the manual are
A. 4WAL brake module
B. + C. go through cowl to feed the fusebox, lights ignition switch, too many to list here.
D. is the AC blower relay

Sorry, I don't have a scanner now and the pics I took are not readable. As Jax suggested replace the plug from the junkyard or simply bypass it. The important part is the fusible link, it is often just a lighter gauge wire that will burn before the rest of the circuit and may seem like a waste of time but if you ever saw an un-fused wire burn in a vehicle you would understand.
I had a company van one year back and turned on the radio one of the guys had fixed,,,, He bypassed the under hood fuse to the amp under the passenger seat, a #12 or # 10 wire came right from the battery to the amp through a hole in the floor on the drivers side. That was a line of fire and sparks five feet long across the van, as it burned through the insulation and rubber mat on the floor it would ground on the body and spark more. Inside of 30 seconds the front of that truck was a ball of fire. Fortunately for me the electrical wizard was the bosses kid.

[JaxSPL]

Good example for uses fuses. That plug, believe it or not, has no circuitry in it. Think of it as a power distribution block. 1 hot wire in, 4 hot wires out. You can bypass it very easily and not have any problem, but, make sure you keep the fusible links. You may need to extend the wiring, please do not do what I did and use crimp connectors. Solder the wires and use heatshrink (not electrical tape) to cover them. I will be redoing mine this weekend.

[WoodButcher]

Good example for uses fuses. That plug, believe it or not, has no circuitry in it. Think of it as a power distribution block. 1 hot wire in, 4 hot wires out. You can bypass it very easily and not have any problem, but, make sure you keep the fusible links. You may need to extend the wiring, please do not do what I did and use crimp connectors. Solder the wires and use heatshrink (not electrical tape) to cover them. I will be redoing mine this weekend.

QFT.
Exactly right.


Really the crimps aren't bad out there, not from a safety standpoint because if they fail it is still outside the passenger compartment, but in a rotten place to fix. I hate to pull the battery out of my vans.

[Txdk]

do you have any idea what fuse there is in the fusible links as one of mine is burned and i would need to replace it but it's very difficult to scavenge parts for american car in denmark

[WoodButcher]

It is not a fuse but a short section of wire that is of lighter gauge wire to create a weak spot in the circuit. You would need to replicate the amperage that that section is meant to carry at its max before it is supposed to burn.
As Jax has said If it is the plug itself that has burned your ok, just bypass the plug. You could used a 5 Terminal Ground Bar like this to do the same job that plug does without cutting any wire.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-5-Term ... /100133761
Just wrap the connection after making sure it all works with rubber tape to insure it cannot ground to the body.

[Txdk]

well i am kinda lucky as the plug is intact, but 1 of the fusible link wires are burnt over (second one from the left), and need to be replaced with a fuse instead as its impossible to get fusible link wires where i live,
without ordering it from usa and paying more for shipping then what the actual wire costs almost forgot import taxes so the actual price is 3-4 times higher then just replacing it with a fuse.
If any one have a wire diagram over that plug and the fuse holder for an astro van 93 the i could calculate the fuse size my self

[WoodButcher]

If that is the right plug can you identify
which one of those circuits? I'll chase it down and see if I can get you pics of the right pages you need.


Or rather than a fuse simply measure the unburned wire and replace accordingly. If the circuit is 14 ga the link would be 16 ga. Install a new fusible, or in this case, weak link.

[Txdk]

it looks like its B on the first and second image

[WoodButcher]

OK, let's start here, note the yellow square and the reference to wire size,

from the plug to S196 (splice 196) that section is labeled -
circuit 2 - 1.0 sq. mm - black
on the other side of S196 is labeled 2 - 5.0 red (circuit 2, 5.0 sq.mm, red)
If this is correct and you can verify other wire sizes in these two diagrams that should give you the info you need. I would suggest replacing with the same size and length of wire that burned. As you can see that entire group is circuit 2 the leg you point out feeds many items, some switched through the ignition some always on others on momentarily while some are switched off. Good luck finding the needed capacity of that fuse.





Those two images are adjoining pages. Highlight and circle on those images questions I may answer or additional pages to reference.
These pages are index and component locations of a few of the items in the images I posted.