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Heater control valve leaks- always the valve?

4K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  highfigh 
#1 ·
I have some coolant dripping from the area of the valve, but it seems that it could be where the hoses slide on- has anyone seen this happen because of the wire hose clamps and if so, did you replace/cut the hose(s) and use a worm-clamp?

I don't have a problem replacing the valve, but would really hate to do that and not fix the problem.

Thanks
 
#2 ·
Be careful, if you even look at that Valve funny, it will Break. But they still sell them all around - 4 & 6 way.
The hoses with "worm clamps" and the new Valve would normally be OK.
"High End" clamps would be even better. If they are good enuf for CargoCrawler...
 
#3 ·
I would replace the valve either way, it's only a matter of time. Valve is pretty cheap from RA, $8-9 +$10 shipping(better if you have other stuff to order at the same time. Discount code here: https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.p ... 9&t=145094

Get some worm-drive clamps if you want, I just reinstalled factory clamps when I did mine, hoses aren't the tightest but no leaks so far. Mine wasn't leaking though, I was just removing the rear heat.
 
#6 ·
The closest dealer quoted $112.23 for this part number- 15722834

I ordered one from RA but the price difference is almost similar to audio and video cables.
 
#9 ·
Saw this on Fleab@y:
GM 15722834 Heater Control Valve/HVAC Heater Control Valve
Genuine OE Factory Original Item
Condition:New
Price: $28.78

No photo though...

I am assuming you do not have RR Heat.

highfigh said:
Are the aftermarket valves living long, or will I be replacing it soon?
From about 6 years worth of hearing answers to that very question...
- It seems even the 'Best' new GM - Made in USA - ACDelco part from 2000 on...
- Is about 1/3 to 1/2 as good as the same OEM part.

The same part for a 1990-1995 might get 1/4 of the OEM item lifespan.

Anecdotally, really there are questions on whether it is even justified to "Purchase the Best"...
- paying the most money for the OEM, maybe NOS ( which is the only way I would pay $112.23 to anyone ).
- Just ask the load of people buying new Fuel Pumps 5 years or less after replacing a 20 year old built unit.
 
#10 ·
I've had the valves on BOTH my different year vans go bad.. apparently a very common problem.
I bought replacements (even new heater hoses).. but couldn't justify putting them back in.
I live in South Florida where we almost never seem to need a heater.
I even have the new ACDelco valves in the box sitting on a shelf.
Just one more part to fail again in the future.. so I capped off the ports and called it a day.
No more worries.

Sorry no help.. but I can relate.

PS: If I lived in the cold.. I would buy a quality ACDelco replacement.
It's a stupid small part, but it can easily ruin your day.
Not worth gambling on generic stuff that probably won't hold up as long.
 
#11 ·
I'd like to see some kind of list for how badly these have leaked, locations/demand for heat, length of service, etc. I'm not the original owner of this van so I don't know if it's the OEM part but I have owned it since it had 78K miles and it never had a problem. Mine drips a little and it only started recently on my 2005 cargo van with 235K miles.

Thanks for the replies.
 
#13 ·
I recently changed mine out as it had been leaking for a while. Bought one from a place called Pit Stop Auto. Part number for mine (4 port no rear heat) HV1233C. The part is made by a company in Texas and is well made and exactly like the original. Has been in use for a couple of weeks now and fit and function are correct. The design of this valve is two piece plastic construction, mine was leaking where the two parts were glued together.I am curious about how it is mounted as there are two tabs on the valve and only one seem to be used. Will see if I have pics of the valve and how it mounts and update.
 
#14 ·
Looked at what I had on this and the valve would appear to be made in china, sourced from a company in Texas and sold by Pit Stop Auto. H valve 1 shows the old valve as mounted to the side of the heater box, the rusty discoloring of the clamps is from coolant leakage. You can see it is mounted with only one of the tabs on the valve. I have not found a diagram of it as mounted to see if there is anything that ties the two tabs together, like a strap or bar.
In the pic old valve 2, it shows the back of the valve with both tabs displayed and the parting line where mine was leaking. Otherwise the valve is in very good shape. I may try to encase the valve at said parting line with heatproof epoxy and keep it on hand as a spare. The replacement was only $20 something dollars but I have time to mess with stuff like this for my own amusement.
 

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#15 ·
I just installed mine so I can't comment on the longevity. I had other parts to order at the same time from RA, so for the $8-9 for the valve it was definitely worth it for me to try.

Toskavat said:
I have not found a diagram of it as mounted to see if there is anything that ties the two tabs together, like a strap or bar.
There is a wire bracket that attaches to the bottom of the valve and to the inner fender. But nothing that goes between the tabs.
 
#16 ·
Got 'er done- wasn't bad but it would have been great if I could have found my hose pinch-off tool, to keep the coolant from pouring out. No biggie, I bought more ahead of time.

Thanks, all.
 
#18 ·
I didn't take any pics but I did some cleanup in the engine compartment- it was a mess from road salt, etc. Also found that the fitting for the upper oil cooler line is leaking, so I bought a replacement that will go in this morning.
 
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