Eliminating rear a/c

[Mage42384]

That time of year where it's getting hot, and I'm noticing my a/c doesn't work. Threw in some 134 with dye and busted out the uv. Compressor was cracked at the seam. So, get a new compressor, put that in, fill and charge, and now there's a very glowy puddle right under the van. Crawled under to take a quick look, and it seems that the leak is pretty high up from that way, dead center over the front driveshaft...or at least running and dripping right there. Guessing I'd have a good view if I took the cover off again, but I just got done with putting it on, lol. Asked my a/c guy, and he just recommended eliminating the rear, but he's not the kind of guy to talk you through it unfortunately.

So anyways, wondering if anybody else has eliminated the rear, or fixed this problem. Think it's a hard leak to get to? I'd rather repair it, but like keeping my options open if it's starting to look too pricey.

Thanks =)

[sfeaver]

Better pull cover back off so you can see where the leak is exactly. I wouldnt remove the rear a/c, a new line if necessary isnt all that expensive. The lines out the back of the compressor would be above where the front driveshaft is.

[timothy47130]

The rear ac suction line ( the larger line of the 2) would be the easiest to replace the 1st connection is in the dog house at the rear left of the engine and the 2nd one is under the van on the drivers side of the transmission . Now the high side line ( the smaller of the 2) would be a pain to replace. the first connection is under the hood by the heater box. It follows the rear heater hoses routing from under the heater box to over the trans bell housing and has another connection over the drivers side rear of the trans. You may or may not have the 2nd connections over the rear of the trans. Mine is a conversion van so it may a little be different.


Tim

[Mage42384]

From the little I've looked at under the car, I've seen that there are sections of lines. Browsing part stores, I'm not seeing saying anything like that. Just seeing the two lines off the compressor, one has one line on one side, one on the other, the other one has the Y on one side.

Going to have to dig up a full diagram when I get to my computer tomorrow before I get back into it...never have don't much with ac before

[timothy47130]

To keep cost down your best bet would be a salvage yard. Most all auto parts stores stock the rubber hose sets, but very few stock the metal lines. You might be able to source a set online pretty cheap though.


Tim

[Mage42384]

Hit 90 today, so I just went the easy way, eliminate the rear. Doorman parts 900-885 and 900-883 I believe, total cost of $50 and went that route. Took about 45 minutes to cut, plug, charge and test lol

[timothy47130]

Well that good you got it going. If you don't really haul around a lot of passengers in the rear it wont really matter anyway. I used to run my rear ac when it was just me in the van but I couldn't really notice much difference in cooling. Besides running it took away from the front cooling. I get colder temps out the vents with the rear ac turned off. But then again mine is also a up fitter supplied pro-air brand rear ac.


Tim

[tank2]

Hit 90 today, so I just went the easy way, eliminate the rear. Doorman parts 900-885 and 900-883 I believe, total cost of $50 and went that route. Took about 45 minutes to cut, plug, charge and test lol

I want to eliminate my rear a/c too, and looked up the part numbers you provided, but they lead nowhere. What parts did you have to buy?

[GuyS]

I have had the same problem and the local garage capped off the smaller "high side" aluminum tube. They soldered the end of the tube where they cut if off. The soldering has failed twice now and they are going to try a 3rd time. Is there another (better!) way to do it?

[chevymaher]

I have had the same problem and the local garage capped off the smaller "high side" aluminum tube. They soldered the end of the tube where they cut if off. The soldering has failed twice now and they are going to try a 3rd time. Is there another (better!) way to do it?

Buy the manifold and hoses to a front only system. Bolts right on. Or get them at a junk yard.

[Astrox2]

Good point chevymaher I was just gonna ask
If a system off a cargo van would swap over might try to do this myself

[chevymaher]

Yes any similar year van. Look there are a few different manifolds tho for my year. Same at the van hook up but different compressors.

[GuyS]

I shoulda checked with the forum after the first failure. As cheymaher suggests the best way to do this job is to just replace the whole premanufactured manifold and lines. The truck is back at the same garage now and they're going to try a Dorman 800-993 cap instead of soldering. Hope this works but if not, I'm not going to mess around anymore and buy the manifold system ....and take it to another garage for the install and refridgerant work.

[GuyS]

Here is a photo of the failed repair. The garage said that they crimped the line and soldered the end. I didn't think that silver solder worked with aluminum.

[chevymaher]

No silver solder is for copper.

[GuyS]

Exactly what I thought...copper only. I don't think there is a "solder" that works with aluminum. There is an aluminum brazing rod but unless the aluminum surfaces are absolutely clean, there will be no bond. How would you get the inside of the tube wire brushed? Also, you've got to heat the aluminum to 750 F.

When you take your vehicle to a garage you hope that they know what they are doing or at least give them the benefit of the doubt. But looks like I put my trust in the wrong place. All I can say is when you hear "we are trying to this to save you money", that's a red flag. There are garages that replace too much and there are garages that mickey mouse things. Dealers don't want to work on the old stuff because of the challenges. I really wish I could find a knowledgeable, trustworthy garage!

[treenail]

By now, with all the leaks and rework, it seems like getting rid of the hose that you wanted plugged is a good idea.

I don't know if this would work here...but it should.

If the threaded fitting were still on you could have found a threaded cap. More than likely it's a tapered or flared connection.

If the pipe were straight with no bends in it you could use a micrometer to measure the outside diameter of the tube then cross reference to a compression fitting. One with a 'nut' that goes on first, followed by a brass ring...on the tube. Then the cap goes on. Gas lines are done this way.

You could flare the end like for soft copper or double flare like for brake lines.

Or...take some time going over the diagrams at Rock Auto and find the hose/tube setup for your vehicle that doesn't have the rear AC. If I recall yours should be around $80 brand new. I wouldn't be likely to get a junkyard setup for something like this...that's just me.

[GuyS]

Here is a picture of a fitting upstream about 2ft of the soldered A/C line. Why wouldn't they have plugged it here?

[Astrox2]

Short and simple answer to that is alot of so- called. (Mechanics) are not anything more than certified parts changers .

[chevymaher]

Short and simple answer to that is alot of so- called. (Mechanics) are not anything more than certified parts changers .

Yes but they baffle you with ****. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.