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The team
See descriptions in BURGUNDY for GEN1 85-95 variants.
Foreword:
Before starting, I must give thanks to our Original Members and Pioneers, without who’s hard work and trial-n-error, NONE of this would be possible. Corsemoto, Akforceten, AstroWill, Lumpy, CargoCrawler, TurnNBurn, Mike at JOR, Gerald at OLV and countless others... thank you for your contribution.
FAQ
What is a 2+1 Lift?
We are talking about 2“ body lift pucks in front, plus 1“ of torsion preload to get to 3”+ overall lift. For the rear, the standard s10 spring upgrade will be used. This will result in the rear being about 1” higher than the front, so be advised.
Why the @#$#% would I do this?
As we all know, there are minimal suspension lift kits for these vans because they were never designed to be lifted. That being said, there are commonly 2 schools of thought to get that subframe up in the air… Body Spacers, Torsion Bar Preload, or a combination of both. Here is a side by side comparison:
Torsion Preload:
- A torsion lift (preloading springs) raises the front end by placing load on the torsion bars, using the adjustment bolts (that are actually designed for minor leveling adjustments), forcing the front end up. This reduces flexibly and travel since you are changing the starting point of those bars. This also results in decreased ride comfort for all the same reasons.
- Many lifts offer “Reindexed Torsion Keys”, which allow you to preload more therefore further reducing flexibility and making it ride like crap and cause accelerated wear on the front axles. You also would need to correct the angles in the front end by flipping the upper control arms ball joints and hope for the best.
Body Spacers:
- This is a plastic or machined 3” wide puck that you place between the rubber body mount and the subframe that lifts the body up and provides additional body clearance while not affecting the ride quality or suspension travel.
- This mod requires relocation of the emergency brake cable mount (new bracket, drill existing bracket or use spacers) and trimming of the lower fan shroud since the subframe and drivetrain will now be sitting lower.
2+1 Lift:
- This lift uses 2” tall body spacers and increasing torsion bar preload to provide 1” more lift, for a total of 3”.
- Adjustments of the torsion bar are not recommended for over ~1” as the front end components become misaligned. By using 2” blocks, we don’t have to install reindexed keys and therefore avoid all the nastiness associated therein.
- The required mods include the same from the standard/ OLV based 2” spacer lift, (relocation of brake cable mount and trimming of the lower fan shroud.
-NOTE: Since the camber and toe angles are affected, it is highly recommended you get your van aligned after significant torsion bar adjustments.
How Long will this take me?
Depends on your experience level. Fastest reported time so far was 5-6 hours, clocked in by GreatWhite and TurnNBurn. Longest was about 3 weeks... not mentioning any names (your secret is safe with us WinnieVan, not to fret).
Of course it all depends on how much other broken/ funky crap or rusted bolts you encounter on the way. Now that the team has done the research and test fitting, you should be able to tackle it in under 8 hours.
Do I need any special tools or skills to do this?
NOPE! Just what you see here, comfy place to work and a little muscle / patience.
Is there a ton of mods required?
A few, nothing too complicated. In front, drill the e-brake bracket, trim the fan shroud. In the back, you will only need to relocate the brake hose bracket. We will walk you through it all, not to fret.
What's the difference between a 2+1 and 3+1 lift?
The 2+1 lift is waay less evasive and does not require as many mods as the 3+1 and is recommend for beginner to intermediate shade-tree mechanics. The total bill as determined by the WimpTech R&D Team would be under $400 and done in a day.... VERY busy day.
Do I need to do a U-Bolt n Plate conversion for the rear springs?
Well, it would appear that 2000+ models have a clam shell assembly that will accept the S10 springs without modification. It would be a good idea to measure what you have to see if you will have enough thread protrusion through the clam shell.
SHOPPING LIST:
- (Qty 2) Rear springs from S10, PN 22-687: http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php ... ts_id=1430 ($170)
-OR-
Rear shackle extenders, see rear lift section for details. AirBagit / CTS
GEN1 (Fiberglass Leaf) PN:SHA-AS8400B Link: http://a.co/62phR2g
GEN2/3 (Steel Leaf) PN: SHA-AS8400A Link: http://a.co/0mGUrtO
- (Qty 6) 2" Tall x 3" Wide Body Lift Blocks: http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-pro ... -2in-/3296 ($24)
- (Qty 4) M12-1.75 x 130mm class 10.9 hex head bolts: Link: http://www.metricspecialties.com/
- (Qty 2) M14-2.0 x 130mm class 10.9 hex head bolts Link: http://www.metricspecialties.com/ ($30 all in plus shipping)
- (Qty 2) Extended Exhaust Hangers (http://a.co/1AKNozB) ($10)
- (Qty 2) Extended rear shocks of your choice (90’s Silverado is 2” longer but save the bushing from the old one and replace the fork type in the new shock with this one)
-OR-
Do the Lumpy shock mount mod... viewtopic.php?f=40&t=12783&start=160
GEN1 (85-95) VARIANT:
- (Qty 1) Longer steering coupler shaft from GEN2/3 RWD model (Junkyard or JOR) $10
Optional:
- (Qty 6) Rubber Body Mounts; Link: http://a.co/1hje2Mf (2 of the M14 mounts will have to be drilled larger, or just use your existing metal parts) $90
- (Qty 2) Bump stops
- Whenever replacing shocks, you should make sure all 4 match each other in terms of compression and return rates. Therefore, you should either match models or replace all 4. The fronts can still use the standard Astro AWD size.
TOOLS:
Sockets: 8,10,11,12,13,15,16,17,18,19,21mm
Wrenches: 16,18,21mm
Vice grips
Floor Jack w/ blocks as required
Tall Jack Stands
Beer (as required)
SUPPLIES:
Thread lock
Brake cleaner
WD40
Ratchet strap (opt)
JUNKYARD HARVESTING:
- When pulling the steering coupler shaft, get the rubber boot to go with it. This will save you the trouble of having to extend your existing boot. The shaft should be well greased and have almost no play when twisted. Bring a 8mm socket, 11mm wrench and pry bar.
FRONT INSTALL:
TIP: Proactively spray down all the bolts we are removing today with WD40 or similar. This will help the removal process and reduce down time screwing with rusty bolts
Prep:
Remove front bumper cover and subframe, as well as diagonal supports from cover ends.
Trim Lower Fan Shroud:
- Remove airbox w/ 8mm socket. Remove both upper and lower fan shrouds w/ 10mm socket. The bottom is tricky, be careful I snapped mine, then later just left it out all together).
- Trim the shroud until it resembles this:
Modify e-brake holder:
- Locate e-brake hanger bracket (near fuel filter, driver’s side).
- Use vice grips or similar to secure rear cable just past the adjuster. Use 12mm wrench to loosen (add slack) to the adjuster by turning clockwise.
- Pull apart cables at this junction. Squeeze/ remove retainer clip. Remove 2x 13mm bolts and hanger.
- Drill new hole farther up approx as shown below. Might make it better than this one… oops. Set aside for now.
GEN1 (85-95) VARIANT:
Install Steering Coupler:
- Set steering wheel to straight forward; secure with bungee down to brake pedal to allow MINOR adjustment (key to ACC position). Thanks TurnNBurn for the tip!
- Remove 2x 13mm bolts and move fuse box to gain better access to top of boot and upper knuckle.
- Remove 4x 8mm screws on upper rubber boot, and pull lower boot off gear box (metal flex ring in boot).
(Boot removed)
- Remove 2x 11mm bolts, remove coupler
- Install new coupler with boots on (you can compress them together to get to the bolts), top end first, then align to teeth on gear box. Don’t let it move more than a tooth or 2 or your wheel will no longer be centered.
- Secure 2x 11mm bolts with Threadlock; secure boots.
Install Lift:
- Chock front and rear wheels or experience Darwinism first-hand.
- Remove front bumper cladding and metal sub-bumper (4x 15mm bolts)
- Remove body mount bolts x6. Front and rear are 18mm; middle are 21mm.
To lift your van off the sub frame, you can use a few different methods:
1- Lift the front end up by the cross member, then install jack stands under the sides to hold the body up. Then, use the floor jack to lower the subframe down.
2- Use a Hi-lift jack or similar as shown here by ericstg:
3- Position floor jack under front body approx as shown. If using a wood block like this, secure it to the jack to prevent tipping.
- Carefully lift body up off sub frame in small steps. Check for fitment issue or tight wires/ hoses. Stop when you can fit the 2” block on top of the body isolator.
Darwin check... once lifted, use those Jack stands, blocks or what ever and don't rely on just the jack or risk proving Darwin right.
Note: If rubber is badly cracked, smushed or otherwise hosed then consider replacement.
***-NOTE: 3" pucks pictured here***
- If pucks are not perpendicular, use ratchet straps or similar on the front of the van to pull it into alignment.
- Install new bolts through isolators and pucks. Use threadlock and torque to spec, or as hard as you can, don’t be Wimpy
- Lower van, marvel in what you have accomplished… but not for too long, still got crap to do man!
- Reinstall e-brake bracket using new hole. Pry out tangs on the insert as required to secure. Reattach front cable to adjuster as shown in previous step. Adjust e-brake cable as required to ensure brakes aren’t dragging and work properly when pedal is depressed.
REAR INSTALL:
For this mod, there are 2 options for rear lift... S10 leaf springs for about ~3.5" lift, or the adjustable rear shackle for 1-3" of lift.
Extended Shackle Method:
- Jack up rear end using common sense and as mentioned above to gain access. Hi-Lift jack with stands or if you have no budget, wood blocks n jack stands.
- Remove 2x 21mm rear shackle bolts, adjust jack to relive pressure on the bolts as required... don't drop van or axle on face.
- Using the appropriate shackle from the parts list, install extender into the top part first (loosely) as shown below. Then, swing it to meet the axle on the bottom most hole for 3" (or other as desired).
- Tighten all bolts and secure with threadlock.
To correct pinion angle and center rear wheel:
- Move to the forward rear leaf hanger and jack/ support as appropriate.
- Remove 2x 21mm leaf bolts. and move out of the way.
- You can either remove the forward hangers to drill or if you are careful, drill in place. DRILL IT STRAIGHT or the gods will punish you.
- Find center of lower portion (down 1.5 inches down(hole to hole)and centered in the bracket (about 1 inch up from the very bottom) and drill hole as shown here:
.jpg)
- Reinstall forward hanger/ spring into hanger and tighten with threadlock.
S10 Spring Method:
- Note configuration of current clam shells as shown below:
- Jack up rear end using common sense and as mentioned above to gain access.
- Remove clam shell nuts 2x16mm, 2x 17mm (I believe), disassemble clam shell. Note: Check condition of upper and lower rubber pads; may need to be replaced. (Note: some folks have omitted the pad entirely, up to you)
- Lift rear end up to relieve pressure on springs. Remove 4x 21mm bolts, remove springs.
Here are the springs for comparison:
- Lift rear another ~4” to allow room for new springs. Install new springs, long side forward (`28” from bolt to centering stud). Tighten bolts with threadlock, torque to spec or as tight as you can get them.
TIP: Lay the springs on top of the axle, then slide in the front bolt first. Then, loosen the rear shackle and pivot them forward to align the rear bolt.
- Reassemble clam shell assembly loosely, don’t forget rubber pads and lock/ washers. Center everything around centering studs. Run down but don’t tighten nuts all the way just yet, might need to adjust things.
- Lower rear end slowly. Ensure rear axle is centered in wheel well (there is about ¼-1/2” adjustment in the clam shell), lift rear end and adjust as required.
- Apply thread lock and torque nuts to spec or just as tight as you can.
- Reposition rear brake line, bend bracket as required. NOTE: Make sure there is plenty of slack in this line to allow for suspension travel or the gods will punish you severely.
- Install new extended shocks of your choice (Note: Some say the stock ones can be used, might as well give it a shot)
Front Torsion Bar Adjustment:
- Locate Torsion bar adjustment bolts x2 in this area:
- Turn bolts clockwise to increase preload and raise front by ~1”. The amount of turns may vary, ~ 6-8 full turns.
- On a flat(ish) surface, measure between ground an wheel wells as required to ensure both sides are even and the desired height has been achieved.
Wrap Up
- Install bumper relocation brackets
WimpTech solution can be found here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=100130
- Reinstall front bumper support or other bumper solution. Note: If reusing stock bumper cover, trimming will be required to ensure clearance with larger tires.
Go over everything:
- Bolts torqued down
- Wires and hoses have proper strain relief
- Tools removed
- No extra parts/ bolts, besides the 6 body mount bolts of course
- Plan on getting an alignment ASAP
Crack open frosty beverage of choice… you did it.
For additional information and background on lifts, see AstroWill's site here:
https://sites.google.com/site/astrosafa ... safari-van
-Revised 04/09/18- Wimptech
TnB
) and didn't want any extra road noise/vibration/harshness transmitted into the cabin then necessary. I wanted a smooth, quiet ride. I've replaced every mount on this van and have gone with OEM rubber on all of them.
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