Chevy Astro and GMC Safari Forum banner

How to do a 2+1 (3") AWD Lift...

95K views 347 replies 51 participants last post by  caveysclubs 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This lift thread applies to GEN2/ GEN3 AWD vans only (96-05).
See descriptions in BURGUNDY for GEN1 85-95 variants.

Foreword:
Before starting, I must give thanks to our Original Members and Pioneers, without who's hard work and trial-n-error, NONE of this would be possible. Corsemoto, Akforceten, AstroWill, Lumpy, CargoCrawler, TurnNBurn, Mike at JOR, Gerald at OLV and countless others... thank you for your contribution.

FAQ

What is a 2+1 Lift?

We are talking about 2" body lift pucks in front, plus 1" of torsion preload to get to 3"+ overall lift. For the rear, the standard s10 spring upgrade will be used. This will result in the rear being about 1" higher than the front, so be advised.

Why the @#$#% would I do this?
As we all know, there are minimal suspension lift kits for these vans because they were never designed to be lifted. That being said, there are commonly 2 schools of thought to get that subframe up in the air… Body Spacers, Torsion Bar Preload, or a combination of both. Here is a side by side comparison:

Torsion Preload:
  • A torsion lift (preloading springs) raises the front end by placing load on the torsion bars, using the adjustment bolts (that are actually designed for minor leveling adjustments), forcing the front end up. This reduces flexibly and travel since you are changing the starting point of those bars. This also results in decreased ride comfort for all the same reasons.
  • Many lifts offer "Reindexed Torsion Keys", which allow you to preload more therefore further reducing flexibility and making it ride like crap and cause accelerated wear on the front axles. You also would need to correct the angles in the front end by flipping the upper control arms ball joints and hope for the best.

Body Spacers:
  • This is a plastic or machined 3" wide puck that you place between the rubber body mount and the subframe that lifts the body up and provides additional body clearance while not affecting the ride quality or suspension travel.
  • This mod requires relocation of the emergency brake cable mount (new bracket, drill existing bracket or use spacers) and trimming of the lower fan shroud since the subframe and drivetrain will now be sitting lower.

2+1 Lift:
  • This lift uses 2" tall body spacers and increasing torsion bar preload to provide 1" more lift, for a total of 3".
  • Adjustments of the torsion bar are not recommended for over ~1" as the front end components become misaligned. By using 2" blocks, we don't have to install reindexed keys and therefore avoid all the nastiness associated therein.
  • The required mods include the same from the standard/ OLV based 2" spacer lift, (relocation of brake cable mount and trimming of the lower fan shroud.
-NOTE: Since the camber and toe angles are affected, it is highly recommended you get your van aligned after significant torsion bar adjustments.

How Long will this take me?

Depends on your experience level. Fastest reported time so far was 5-6 hours, clocked in by GreatWhite and TurnNBurn. Longest was about 3 weeks... not mentioning any names (your secret is safe with us WinnieVan, not to fret).
Of course it all depends on how much other broken/ funky crap or rusted bolts you encounter on the way. Now that the team has done the research and test fitting, you should be able to tackle it in under 8 hours.

Do I need any special tools or skills to do this?
NOPE! Just your garden variety tools you probably already have, then just a comfy place to work and a little muscle / patience.


Is there a ton of mods required?
A few, nothing too complicated. In front, drill the e-brake bracket, trim the fan shroud. In the back, you will only need to relocate the brake hose bracket. We will walk you through it all, not to fret.

What's the difference between a 2+1 and 3+1 lift?
The 2+1 lift is waay less evasive and does not require as many mods as the 3+1 and is recommend for beginner to intermediate shade-tree mechanics. The total bill as determined by the WimpTech R&D Team would be under $400 and done in a day.... VERY busy day.

Do I need to do a U-Bolt n Plate conversion for the rear springs?
Well, it would appear that 2000+ models have a clam shell assembly that will accept the S10 springs without modification. It would be a good idea to measure what you have to see if you will have enough thread protrusion through the clam shell.

SHOPPING LIST:
- (Qty 2) Rear springs from S10, PN 22-687: http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php ... ts_id=1430 ($170)
-OR-
Rear shackle extenders, see rear lift section for details. AirBagit / CTS
GEN1 (Fiberglass Leaf) PN:SHA-AS8400B Link
GEN2/3 (Steel Leaf) PN: SHA-AS8400A Link

  • (Qty 6) 2" Tall x 3" Wide Body Lift Blocks
  • (Qty 4) M12-1.75 x 150mm class 10.9 hex head bolts: Link: http://www.metricspecialties.com/
  • (Qty 2) M14-2.0 x 130mm class 10.9 hex head bolts Link: http://www.metricspecialties.com/ ($30 all in plus shipping)
  • (Qty 2) Extended Exhaust Hangers ($10)
  • (Qty 2) Extended rear shocks of your choice (90's Silverado is 2" longer but save the bushing from the old one and replace the fork type in the new shock with this one)
-OR-
Do the Lumpy shock mount mod... viewtopic.php?f=40&t=12783&start=160

GEN1 (85-95) VARIANT:
- (Qty 1) Longer steering coupler shaft from GEN2/3 RWD model (Junkyard or JOR) $10


Optional:
  • (Qty 6) Rubber Body Mounts; Link: http://a.co/1hje2Mf (2 of the M14 mounts will have to be drilled larger, or just use your existing metal parts) $90
  • (Qty 2) Bump stops
  • Whenever replacing shocks, you should make sure all 4 match each other in terms of compression and return rates. Therefore, you should either match models or replace all 4. The fronts can still use the standard Astro AWD size.

TOOLS:
Sockets: 8,10,11,12,13,15,16,17,18,19,21mm
Wrenches: 16,18,21mm
Vice grips
Floor Jack w/ blocks as required
Tall Jack Stands
Beer (as required)

SUPPLIES:
Thread lock
Brake cleaner
WD40
Ratchet strap (opt)

JUNKYARD HARVESTING:
- When pulling the steering coupler shaft, get the rubber boot to go with it. This will save you the trouble of having to extend your existing boot. The shaft should be well-greased and have almost no play when twisted. Bring an 8mm socket, 11mm wrench, and pry bar.


FRONT INSTALL:

TIP: Proactively spray down all the bolts we are removing today with WD40 or similar. This will help the removal process and reduce downtime screwing with rusty bolts

Prep:
Remove the front bumper cover and subframe, as well as diagonal supports from the cover ends.
Trim Lower Fan Shroud:
  • Remove airbox w/ 8mm socket. Remove both upper and lower fan shrouds w/ a 10mm socket. The bottom is tricky, be careful I snapped mine, then later just left it out altogether).
  • Trim the shroud until it resembles this:





Modify e-brake holder:
- Locate e-brake hanger bracket (near fuel filter, driver's side).


- Use vice grips or similar to secure the rear cable just past the adjuster. Use a 12mm wrench to loosen (add slack to) the adjuster by turning it clockwise.

- Pull apart cables at this junction. Squeeze/ remove the retainer clip. Remove 2x 13mm bolts and hangers.


- Drill a new hole farther up approx as shown below. Might make it better than this one. Set aside for now.


GEN1 (85-95) VARIANT:

Install Steering Coupler:


  • Set steering wheel to straight forward; secure with bungee down to brake pedal to allow MINOR adjustment (key to ACC position). Thanks, TurnNBurn, for the tip!
  • Remove 2x 13mm bolts and move the fuse box to gain better access to the top of the boot and upper knuckle.
  • Remove 4x 8mm screws on the upper rubber boot, and pull the lower boot off the gearbox (metal flex ring in boot).




(Boot removed)


  • Remove 2x 11mm bolts, remove the coupler
  • Install a new coupler with boots on (you can compress them together to get to the bolts), top end first, then align to teeth on the gearbox. Don't let it move more than a tooth or 2 or your wheel will no longer be centered.
  • Secure 2x 11mm bolts with Threadlock; secure boots.



Install Lift:
- Chock front and rear wheels or experience Darwinism first-hand.

- Remove front bumper cladding and metal sub-bumper (4x 15mm bolts)

- Remove body mount bolts x6. Front and rear are 18mm; middle are 21mm.



To lift your van off the subframe, you can use a few different methods:

1- Lift the front end up by the cross member, then install jack stands under the sides to hold the body up. Then, use the floor jack to lower the subframe down.

2- Use a Hi-lift jack or similar as shown here by ericstg:



3- Position the floor jack under the front body approx as shown. If using a wood block like this, secure it to the jack to prevent tipping.



- Carefully lift the body up off the subframe in small steps. Check for fitment issues or tight wires/ hoses. Stop when you can fit the 2" block on top of the body isolator.
Darwin check... once lifted, use those Jack stands, blocks, or whatever, and don't rely on just the jack or risk proving Darwin right.

Note: If the rubber is badly cracked, smushed, or otherwise hosed then consider a replacement.



-NOTE: 3" pucks pictured here

  • If pucks are not perpendicular, use ratchet straps or similar on the front of the van to pull it into alignment.
  • Install new bolts through isolators and pucks. Use thread lock and torque to spec, or as hard as you can, don't be Wimpy

- Lower van, marvel at what you have accomplishedR but not for too long, still got crap to do man!

- Reinstall the e-brake bracket using the new hole. Pry out tangs on the insert as required to secure. Reattach the front cable to the adjuster as shown in the previous step. Adjust the e-brake cable as required to ensure the brakes aren't dragging and work properly when the pedal is depressed.


REAR INSTALL:
For this mod, there are 2 options for the rear lift... S10 leaf springs for about ~3.5" lift, or the adjustable rear shackle for 1-3" of lift.

Extended Shackle Method:

  • Jack up the rear end using common sense and as mentioned above to gain access. Hi-Lift jack with stands or if you have no budget, wood blocks n jack stands.
  • Remove 2x 21mm rear shackle bolts, and adjust the jack to relieve pressure on the bolts as required... don't drop the van or axle on the face.
  • Using the appropriate shackle from the parts list, install the extender into the top part first (loosely) as shown below. Then, swing it to meet the axle on the bottommost hole for 3" (or others as desired).



- Tighten all bolts and secure with thread lock.

To correct pinion angle and center rear wheel:
  • Move to the forward rear leaf hanger and jack/ support as appropriate.
  • Remove 2x 21mm leaf bolts. and move out of the way.
  • You can either remove the forward hangers to drill or if you are careful, drill in place. DRILL IT STRAIGHT or the gods will punish you.
  • Find the center of the lower portion (down 1.5 inches down(hole to hole)and center in the bracket (about 1 inch up from the very bottom) and drill the hole as shown here:



- Reinstall the forward hanger/ spring into the hanger and tighten with thread lock.

S10 Spring Method:

- Note the configuration of current clam shells as shown below:


  • Jack up the rear end using common sense and as mentioned above to gain access.
  • Remove clam shell nuts 2x16mm, 2x 17mm (I believe), and disassemble the clam shell. Note: Check the condition of the upper and lower rubber pads; may need to be replaced. (Note: some folks have omitted the pad entirely, up to you)

- Lift the rear end up to relieve pressure on the springs. Remove 4x 21mm bolts, and remove springs.

Here are the springs for comparison:




- Lift rear another ~4" to allow room for new springs. Install new springs, long side forward (`28" from bolt to centering stud). Tighten bolts with thread lock, torque to spec, or as tight as you can get them.
TIP: Lay the springs on top of the axle, then slide in the front bolt first. Then, loosen the rear shackle and pivot them forward to align the rear bolt.

  • Reassemble the clam shell assembly loosely, don't forget rubber pads and lock/ washers. Center everything around centering studs. Run down but don't tighten nuts all the way just yet, might need to adjust things.
  • Lower the rear end slowly. Ensure the rear axle is centered in the wheel well (there is about ¼-1/2" adjustment in the clamshell), lift the rear end, and adjust as required.
  • Apply thread lock and torque nuts to spec or just as tight as you can.
  • Reposition the rear brake line, and bend the bracket as required. NOTE: Make sure there is plenty of slack in this line to allow for suspension travel or the gods will punish you severely.
  • Install new extended shocks of your choice (Note: Some say the stock ones can be used, might as well give it a shot)

Front Torsion Bar Adjustment:
- Locate Torsion bar adjustment bolts x2 in this area:




  • Turn bolts clockwise to increase preload and raise front by ~1". The number of turns may vary, ~ 6-8 full turns.
  • On a flat(ish) surface, measure between ground and wheel wells as required to ensure both sides are even and the desired height has been achieved.

Wrap Up

- Install bumper relocation brackets
WimpTech solution can be found here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=100130
- Reinstall front bumper support or other bumper solution. Note: If reusing stock bumper cover, trimming will be required to ensure clearance with larger tires.

Go over everything:
  • Bolts torqued down
  • Wires and hoses have proper strain relief
  • Tools removed
  • No extra parts/ bolts, besides the 6 body mount bolts of course
  • Plan on getting an alignment ASAP

Crack open a frosty beverage of choice… you did it.

For additional information and background on lifts, see AstroWill's site here:
https://sites.google.com/site/astrosafa ... safari-van

-Revised 04/09/18- Wimptech
 
See less See more
20
#8 ·
Literally planned to figure some variation on this but my leaf spring broke in the rear this weekend. It's my Daily driver so this is a huge issue. You couldn't have posted at a better time. Literally going acquire that entire shopping list and get this done within the week.
I have Couple questions.
Any thoughts on poly body mounts?
I just installed Bilsteins in the rear (46s) I have the front ones inside the van. Will these (rear) be ok until I can get 2" brackets for them? I've heard the Bilstein HD can deal with 2" of lift but with this I'll be around 3.

* also noticed the load on the shopping cart spring is 1350. The same site has two of the Astro springs with 3+1 rated higher. One set at 1410 and the HD at 1700.
I understand this may not lift as high (or at all?? but would the truck be more capable with these springs? I haul tools and swap out for kids occasionally. But I'm fairly often loaded up.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#9 ·
Hey Dan, good questions, I'll do my best to answer them, remember I'm no mechanic!
About a year ago, another person here went with poly and was not happy because he felt they squeak and creek a bunch more, but that is subjective. Since I've only ever used natural rubber mounts, I can only speak to those. For me, the choice was very easy... cheap and at an average life of ~15 years, they will likely outlast the van at this point.

That's strange about the springs, I swear they were 1410 like Astros, wonder if it changed or if i'm going senile... either is possible. Personally I'm very happy with the load handling on them with my +100 or so pounds in the rear and haven't heard any complaints so far, and at only 60lb difference, I doubt it would even be noticeable. The stock Astro springs will not give you any lift but will likely make it sit a little higher than before since your old springs were probably sagged out.
There is also the standard 2" lift from OLV or Journey Offroad that has extended shackles which can be used with the stock springs.
 
#12 ·
So I just did this weekend on a van Im fixing up to sell. And confirmed that 2000 and newer will fit the s10 rear springs as is and don't need to be modified with a u bolt flip kit like the 99 and old vans will.

Also, should be added to the original post since it shows the bumper off but doesn't say to take it off, that you need to remove the front bumper ( or at least the 2 10mm bolts on the very far ends that bolt to the fender, and the diagonal metal braces )prior to doing the body lift or you will rip them loose from the body.
 
#13 ·
I went rubber with my body mounts as I drive it daily (once it's back together :roll: ) and didn't want any extra road noise/vibration/harshness transmitted into the cabin then necessary. I wanted a smooth, quiet ride. I've replaced every mount on this van and have gone with OEM rubber on all of them.

I've built LOTS of little tuner cars (VW's & Audi's) and used poly mounts on them and didn't want that kind of ride for the van, gets real annoying on the freeway!
 
#14 ·
I just grabbed the spring set from the shopping list above. I had plans to lift and plans for airbags. If I do this and stick to the plan I will get everything with more options on my ride quality. Also opted for the Rubber mounts. I was just yesterday looking through your poly ball joint/leaf bushing thread CC. Expecting to go poly in those areas. Have to grab the leaf bushings now actually. This write up made my day. Haha

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#15 ·
TurnNburn said:
Also, should be added to the original post since it shows the bumper off but doesn't say to take it off, that you need to remove the front bumper ( or at least the 2 10mm bolts on the very far ends that bolt to the fender, and the diagonal metal braces )prior to doing the body lift or you will rip them loose from the body.
GREAT Catch, thanks! I will ask our friendly neighborhood Admins to add that step to both 2+1 and 3+1 lifts.
 
#18 ·
My kids absolutely love riding with me. Comfort goes a long way when the wife also likes her own van. If mine were a bromobile like the 6 wranglers I've had through the years then it wouldn't be a no brainer to take mine. Been there done it. Rigid bikes and all. I'll take the comfortable AND the capable now. I'm a big fan of poly in just about all other suspension areas but wasn't sure about the body mounts. Mentioning mileage I'm at 150 a day but I drive into Brooklyn and it's like it's own special terrain. They just cut the asphalt my whole ride up Bay Ave. My ball joints needed changing and I'm hoping they hold out till I can grab the parts. This broken leaf has set off a chain of items that weren't up to bat just yet. Lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#20 ·
Yet another nice write-up Wimpy!

I can confirm some of the "afterthoughts" that some others raised. Poly bushings do indeed give just a little (maybe 1/2") more lift as they don't squish down like the rubber bushings do. Just means a little less adjustment needed with the torsion bars. I did not lubricate and I haven't had any squeak issues (at least not that I can tell...plenty of other squeaks and rattles...). I can also confirm that the with the S10 springs in the rear the stock Bilstein shocks work. I did not relocate the shock mounts etc. and I am not aware of any issues.

The one thing different that I've found is that my stock clamshells did NOT fit with the S10 springs. I ordered and have received the plates and U-bolts but haven't installed them yet. I just ghetto mounted the clamshells and have the all-to-familiar gap between the clamshell and the mounting bracket.

And as others pointed out...gotta take off the front bumper and use relocation brackets...or just do a cool mod to a Jeep rock-crawler bumper and fab a grill extension from some JY donor vans! :D
 
#23 ·
QuincyPigBoy said:
Would adding shocks to this project be the only additional step?
From the original post:
Wimpazz said:
- Install new extended shocks of your choice
(Note: Some say the stock ones can be used, might as well give it a shot)
And....
QuincyPigBoy said:
Just bought an 03 AWD Safari.
...Welcome to the forum
 
#24 ·
Apologies for the last post. I'd had a few before posting and I'm not sure what I was even asking. That being said, I have some real questions. I'm a maintenance mechanic for a packaging line so I have to ability, but I've never worked on cars so excuse me if my questions are dumb.

My main concern is the front suspension. Do I really only need the pucks, assuming everything else is in worker order? Should I upgrade the shocks to something longer or am I totally fine with stock?

Leaf springs... the post suggests 82-94 springs. Are these basically universal for all years or should I buy something that fits an 03' S10 as my Safari is an 03? I've also seen fiberglass springs mentioned. Should I go with one vs the other?

Rear shocks. I understand it says rear shocks of my choice but I'm not sure what to get. Do I just need to figure out the stock shock length and get something 2" longer? If you have a suggestion for something reasonably priced that'd be helpful.

Lastly, in your opinion, should I go with poly or rubber body bushings? I can't really tell if poly is worth it from the comments. Rubber sounds more practical but someone said I'm a "manpussy" if i get em.
 
#25 ·
First -- welcome to the forum -- glad you made the dive!

The pucks are only a body lift -- so nothing in the front suspension changes from the pucks... the body just ends up sitting 2" higher than it originally sat. Tightening the torsion bars affects your suspension -- but it only pre-loads things so you don't need to change anything to use the torsion bars.

In the rear -- you'll use steel S10 leafs. You need the part number in the Wimps first post here. You *MAY* need longer rear shocks... I need shocks anyways -- so I went with AC Delco 540-5006 -- also on Wimp's recommendation.

Poly vs. Rubbber :shrug:... it's really up to you. If yours are in good shape - -you can just use the ones that are on there.

Second -- read the original post again. Most if not all of your questions are answered there. If they aren't answer in Wimp's post -- use the search function!

Third -- welcome to the forum. The folks here are really nice :)
 
#26 ·
Welcome to the forums!

You will be using steel leafs, the fiberglass leafs are from 1st gen vans and would be a major downgrade if you changed to them.

Rubber sounds more practical but someone said I'm a "manpussy" if i get em.
LOL, I think they were referring to me as I am trying to make my lifted van ride smooth and quiet and have gone rubber with all of my replacement bushings. Just because its lifted doesn't mean it has to ride like a 1947 Dodge Power Wagon.

I recommended using rubber for the body mounts, I used Dorman 924003, you will need 6 of them.

Good luck and post up pics when it's done! :banana:
 
Top