Rough Country upper A-Arm

[Hillbent]

Has anyone used the Rough Country upper A-arms on their rig. They are cross referenced on MOOG, and they say that they are good for 2-3 inch lift for the K1500. Saw someone else do this, but they have not aligned it yet. They are going to let me know if it goes well. Curious about any experience on this forum. Thanks!

[Rinny]

I am also interested to see if they work. I was going to slot the frame further to allow a little more travel in the camber bolts. If these will do the same thing with out slotting further it would be a better modification.

[Hillbent]

If you are on Instagram, Sully the Astro, has just posted his vehicle and says the alignment went well! He doesn’t have lifted torsion keys, he just has the stock keys cranked all the way up. So, it is official, they work!

[Rinny]

That's good news. I just ordered a set so I guess we will see. I have reindexed keys and cant seem to get the front end within factory specs. If everything they represent is true it will fix that problem.

[Hillbent]

He also has the camber bolts that allow a wider range of adjustment. Good luck and can’t wait to see how it goes.

[Rinny]

I have those camber bolts also, and they are greasable. Which ones does he have?

[dit]

I've been looking at these as well, any updates?

[Rinny]

I do not know when I will actually install them. I have quite a bit of other stuff going on with the truck at the moment. New Alternator that will require rewiring, some spots to touch up, paint barn doors, adding to the security screening, and I have to put all my fishing gear in it which is getting reconfigured, so it is going to be a bit yet. Ah I also have the steel rubber gasket sets to install also.

[SoccerMom4x4]

Just to clarify, these would be ideal to “relax” the geometry associated with cranking the t-bars for lift? Similar to, but I’m sure better than relocating the ball joints?
Just wanna make sure I understand the idea of using these. Either they will not produce any lift, just solve issues associated with lift or act as a kind of “ ball joint spacer” in a sense and provide lift? Or am I completely wrong and they’re supposed to mount inside a toaster?

[Mmusicman]

Upper control arms DO NOT produce lift.
This is done by spring pressure (incl torsion bars) pushing down against lower arms only.

If you only do body lift and/or moderate torsion lift with stock keys, the stock arms are all you need.
You really want to avoid excessive torsion-bar lift with re indexed aftermarket keys. The stock keys are tweaked a little on mine.

It is quite easy to relocate the ball-joint under the arm if you "need" to correct a little geometry due to further suspension lift.

I just replaced mine this past weekend. Complete arm (with new ball-joints and bushings) only $50 shipped!
Mevotech offers two lines... this is their "Supreme" line.

[SoccerMom4x4]

Thanks for the clarification! That’s what I was thinking originally. So if you got re-indexed Super cranked torsion bars this will help get the ideal angle of the dangle for those ball joints

[Rinny]

I relocated he ball joints and it was not enough to get to factory specs on the alignment. I plan on installing the rough country upper control arms as soon as I can get to it. They are on the shelf.

[SportsBoy]

I posted this in another thread a couple days ago, but couldn't the extra clearance around the shock from these make it so we have better options for front shocks for lifted vans? It seems like there aren't a ton of high quality shock options that work perfectly, partially because the diameter of the shock is a limiting factor. Maybe this changes that?

[kade225]

If you do follow Sully the Astro on insta you can see these Rough County A arms definitely do open the door to lots more shock options! The idea spinning around in my head though, is if the extra clearance is possibly enough to run a slim coil-over under there. The shock mount tower might need to be reinforced a bit too if its taking force. It would be great for changing the weight capacity of the awd front end and I know it's a stretch but it is something to think about...

[TurnNburn]

I have 8 inches of lift and don't need over priced A arms... Flip the ball joint from the top to the bottom and you gain all of the benefits at half the cost. (This doesn't work, and is actually bad for your alignment, for lifts below 4 inches)

[Mmusicman]

(This doesn't work, and is actually bad for your alignment, for lifts below 4 inches)

Correct. Probably should be noted that this only applies to "suspension lifts" and does NOT apply to "body lifts", which does NOT affect stock suspension whatsoever.

[Rinny]

I relocated the ball joints on the stock upper control arms. My cam bolts are maxed out and not quite making factory specs. I will try these arms when I get a chance and let ya all know the outcome.

[nosxjeep]

As for shocks, if you want to sneak something crazy into a tight space, check out the products from ORI Struts. While they are designed for off-road racing they accomplish a lot of things in a small package.
"Spring", shock, bump stop, sway bar replacement and they are nitrogen adjustable with ride height adjustment.
They cost about as much as a decent coil-over but might fit the area a bit better.

[kade225]

Looked them up and those Struts are AMAZING! Might be damn near impossible to fit but would make for a sweet rig!

[nosxjeep]

http://oristruts.com/

Ya, they are pretty hot.
So much in such a compact package.
They just released a cool leveling kit too...

I want to try them whenever I finally get to my SAS, that way I can have simple upper and lower mounts, skip the anti-sway bar, plus have some adjust-ability on height and ride... maybe even on the fly? ... I can dream...

There are limitations of course, like you can't mount them past a 50 degree from vertical, so something like a rear cantilever system wouldn't fly, but whatevz.

They have been out for a while and are gaining popularity in the off-road world, but they aren't street legal yet, so... there's that.