My 4-5" OLV Lift kit build thread.

[SilverBullet1997]

This thread will serve as my build for my Overland build kit.

Which is planned for June 7th-8th when 'thegreenmachine' is coming down from Canada to help me install the kit.

Here is a picture of my van as it sits now waiting for the lift kit.

The lift kit on the floor of my bedroom

The Rancho 9000XL's adjustable shocks I ordered.

I know this is a couple weeks early, But I am excited and can't wait for this project to begin, Here in about a 10 days, I will go and take the car to a do it yourself car wash and give the undercarriage a good pressure spray, then will start shooting most bolts with some PB Blaster to ease removal.

[limon]

You might want to order some clips too. I broke a few...

Cheap on EBay

[SilverBullet1997]

You might want to order some clips too. I broke a few...

Cheap on EBay

I was thinking that too. Need some for my buddies Toyota too. Not a bad thing to have kicking around.

Thanks

[97cargocrawler]

If you haven't already you may want to order some 4deg. pinion angle correction shims. Other misc. stuff: blue Loctite for the body spacer bolts, grease gun for the shackles...

[SilverBullet1997]

Thinking I am going to try to run 31x10.50r15's when I get the kit installed. I was thinking with that wide of a tire I may need a spacer. I was thinking a 1¼" spacer like theses. Because a 31" would give me a physical lift of 1½" from ground to lowest point(I am calculating, because the overall diameter will increase by 3¼") as compared to my LT215/75r15






It maybe just smarter to run a 30x9.5r15. I don't think I would need much trimming or spacers if I ran those.


Let me know your thoughts on this.

[SilverBullet1997]

If you haven't already you may want to order some 4deg. pinion angle correction shims. Other misc. stuff: blue Loctite for the body spacer bolts, grease gun for the shackles...

I talked to Gerald at OLV, and discussed the Pinion shims, and that discussion read thusly

----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin
To: Gerald
Sent: Fri, 03 May 2013 08:26:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 4-5" lift kit L9605-4LK

Have you heard about any kind of vibration occurring after installing this lift from the rear that had to be corrected with Pinion Shims? If so what size pinion shims should I use, I seen some people when they did the 2" lift used a 4º shim.. I am wondering since this is the 4"-5" lift, do I need a shim with more of an angle like 8º?

Any input you may have on this would be awesome, if you have a little information on problems that I may run in to, and what others did to fix/correct these problems that would be great too.

Thanks Gerald
-Kevin

Hello Kevin,
don't mess with the pinion angle unless you have to. The 2" kits tend to suffer from this problem which is easily corrected with a shim. Determining the amount of degree is a little more involved but not beyond the backyard mechanic. You would measure the angle the yoke at your tranny sits and at the yoke on the pinion. Subtract one from the other for your difference. Not all of them will be alike so it's hard to standardize and say so much lift so much shim.
In your case it is a 4" lift which I have never had a single complaint about the vibration. I think it's because the springs are stiffer than stock and don't let the axle rotate when the shackles are put on. 2" kits use the existing leaf springs on the vehicle which are often sagging already. The front of the leaf flattens out when the shackles are put on which allows the pinion to point up.
So no worries the 4" kit really works nice . Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine. Pay attention to the upper ball joint relocation. It's simple enough but some guys try to avoid it. The wheels will have negative camber if you don't do it.
Your kit will be leaving tomorrow or Monday. We had 5 orders come in before yours so I got a bit swamped. It never rains but it pours.

Good problem though,

Gerald

Did you have to use pinion shims on yours CC?

[97cargocrawler]

I did. 4deg. 8 would be crazy.

Try it without. Pretty easy to pop them in later if you need to.

The wheel spacers are tricky business. I strongly suggest buying ONE large tire mounted on your chosen wheel before deciding. Spacers are cheap enough but spending all that $$$$ at once only to find it doesn't work out would suck.

[SilverBullet1997]

I don't have any spare rims to try that out, so I would have to buy a new tire at discount tire have them pull off one of my tires mount the new one, to find out it doesn't fit.....

hmmm may have to go to the pullapart and buy a cheap rim....

[97cargocrawler]

Time to start saving for the next lift/wheel/tire combo!

[SilverBullet1997]

I hear you! lol, Have to have you come do a 10" lift on mine next ;D

[Corsemoto]

For pinion shims, it will depend on what position you set the shackles and there are a few good threads on here that discuss that. Every van is a little different it seems and so you may have to experiment some.

As for determining what wheel/tire size combination works, I searched Craigslist for some time and found what I was looking for - a used set of stock alloys with 245/75-16s for cheap that I could test fit and get an idea of how much clearance work I needed to do. Then, I sold those tires, painted the wheels and bought new tires.

Also, hub-centric wheel spacers (both hub side and wheel side) are a better bet than lug-centric spacers as they keep the wheel centered and the vehicle load on the wheel/axle not the lug studs.

If you go with aftermarket wheels then you shouldn't need spacers as you can determine an offset/backspacing to fit your needs.

[Philly758]

You might want to order some clips too. I broke a few...

Cheap on EBay

For wheel well skirts? I just never put mine back on...

[Corsemoto]

Me either, I like being able to look into the wheel wells and see what's going on.

[Corsemoto]

Silver, the Rancho RS999112 were the first rear shocks I tried for my van as I didn't want to relocate shock mounts. Being that they are the larger 2.75" diameter body, they don't fit. If you hold one up to the lower shock mount, you'll see why, the tube is too large and contacts the rear axle well before you van position the lower mount into position to bolt in place. That is why I went with the RS999147 and relocated lower shock mounts.

https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=13131&start=20#p147805

It may work with modified and raised stock lower mounts, maybe not but also your shocks may then be too long and bottom prematurely on compression. Something to think about.

Also, when you install front shocks, be sure to relocate upper ball joints or the upper control arm will contact the larger than stock 2.18" diameter shock body. On a twin-tube design this isn't the end of the world as it is the inner tube the piston rides on but still something to look out for.

[97cargocrawler]

After the body lift...the skirts are too short anyway...no? Not that I'm opposed to short skirts. I guess they might just be barely hanging on...flapping in the breeze...

[Corsemoto]

Short skirts!

[Philly758]

Yeaah it was too much of a pain to get them back in place and it always seems as soon as i get them in, i need to take them out again. Plus its another thing to rub on your tire. It also makes explaining your body block lift easier when you can point at 4 out of 6 of the blocks through your wheel well.

[SilverBullet1997]

Silver, the Rancho RS999112 were the first rear shocks I tried for my van as I didn't want to relocate shock mounts. Being that they are the larger 2.75" diameter body, they don't fit. If you hold one up to the lower shock mount, you'll see why, the tube is too large and contacts the rear axle well before you van position the lower mount into position to bolt in place. That is why I went with the RS999147 and relocated lower shock mounts.

https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=13131&start=20#p147805

It may work with modified and raised stock lower mounts, maybe not but also your shocks may then be too long and bottom prematurely on compression. Something to think about.

Also, when you install front shocks, be sure to relocate upper ball joints or the upper control arm will contact the larger than stock 2.18" diameter shock body. On a twin-tube design this isn't the end of the world as it is the inner tube the piston rides on but still something to look out for.

Is this going to require welding? haven't looked at thread yet, will later tonight when I get home from work.

[thegreenmachine]

Lumpy has a thread somewhere where he just cut and bent the bracket up then drilling a new hole higher on bracket.

[SilverBullet1997]

Lumpy has a thread somewhere where he just cut and bent the bracket up then drilling a new hole higher on bracket.

I thought that you used the RS5112 - I wonder if there is a difference in thickness of tube between the two....