2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby Corsemoto » October 12th 2014, 3:08am

Dorman 927-103 for around $100 or so and comes with new bushings and end links is about the only option for replacement unless you're going to go with new GM or salvage yard hunting.
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby tanvanmanwithaplan [OP] » October 12th 2014, 4:35am

Well, I think GM has established that theirs isn't too awful great, so I guess I'll give dorman a chance. The bushings and end links look **** anyway. I was starting to formulate a front end rebuild anyway so I guess I'm getting a Dorman sway bar along with moog front end!

Next item of business!

When I undid my drivers side subframe bolts, a bunch of rust came out (mostly from the front one) and this plate comes out with the bolt as well as a rubber piece on two of the bolts (I think they are subframe bushings). This is what came out (right is front of van, left is back of van):

Image

Is this common? The rubber is all rotted on the frontmost one and a metal ring came out with it. I didn't pry, it just fell out. Should I be replacing these rubber bushings to prevent noise?

Edit: Looks like the popular upgrade is the Prothane 7-108-bl poly bushings. I think I'm going to spring for that while I'm doing this. Are they the same height as the stock ones (when they aren't smushed)?
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby Lumpy » October 12th 2014, 5:41am

tanvanmanwithaplan wrote:
[Subframe Bushings]
...Looks like the popular upgrade is the Prothane 7-108-bl poly bushings. I think I'm going to spring for that while I'm doing this. Are they the same height as the stock ones (when they aren't smushed)?


I can tell you for certain if you'll measure yours. I just received mine, not yet installed. I'll go out and measure them right now. Measure yours and we'll compare.


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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby Lumpy » October 12th 2014, 5:48am

Prothane 7-108 Bushing Thickness...

Short puck = 1.072 inch (~1 5/64)
Long puck = 1.296 inch (~1 19/64)


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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby tanvanmanwithaplan [OP] » October 12th 2014, 5:54am

I stopped after the lower ones fell out, so I can't measure the top ones. I'm not sure it would be a good comparison anyway as my uppers are rotted and smashed. Are the short ones the upper ones or the lower ones?
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby Lumpy » October 12th 2014, 5:59am

They can go in either way. Short on bottom or top. Cargo put his shorts on the bottom... :eek: I think Maher put his shorts on top.

Those who do it use the stock bolts unless they're adding lift pucks.


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Height before lift

Postby tanvanmanwithaplan [OP] » October 12th 2014, 6:06am

I took some pre lift height measurements (unrelated to our bushing conversation):

Front:
Image

Rear:
Image

Thank god for 1000W flood lights. It really makes working at night possible. Not sure the neighbors like that and my impact air wrench and compressor clunking and droning into the night though. I shut the compressor into the van and that seems to have deadened the sound a lot though!
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby Lumpy » October 12th 2014, 6:13am

:rofl:

I too work on my van at night. And so does the guy across the street. When it's 100+ degrees here, the sun heats metal cars and tools to roughly 17bazillion degrees. Makes it a little bit tough to pick up a wrench at that temp.

Like the old joke about "Traveling to the sun? NO problem. We'll go at night"

Down side is I have to keep an eye out for nocturnal scorpions and black widows.


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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby tanvanmanwithaplan [OP] » October 16th 2014, 2:01am

I got the prothane bushings today and a **** load of frontend stuff, sway bar and lower control arms were supposed to be delivered today but UPS sucks and said unable to deliver. When I asked why they had no solid answer for me but I work right next to the UPS customer center so w/e.

Image

I removed the turn signals, grille, bumper fascia and bumper. Then I got some wood blocks and my 3 ton SUV jack and I was able to remove the drivers side top bushing.

Image

Unfortunately the upper cup is badly rusted and I can't get the old bushings out of the cup!

Image

Upon further inspection, there's no **** ing way this is coming out!

Image

I am in the process of lifting the van at the same time, and this is really slowing me down! Does anyone know where I can get the upper cups for these? I'm going to go out and see if the middle and rear ones are as bad (I'll bet they in better shape since they are farther away from the front of the van, salt water, etc.). I see that RockAuto has a doorman bushing kit Doorman # 924003 for $13.39. Will that work on the middle mounts since they have wider bolts?

EDIT (5 minutes later): It looks like the middle and rear ones are just fine, so I guess I'll just order two new front ones.
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby zzimmer3 » October 16th 2014, 3:00am

My sway bar looks exactly like yours. I'm asking Santa for a new one for Christmas! I'm enjoying reading your build!
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby tanvanmanwithaplan [OP] » October 16th 2014, 4:37am

zzimmer3 wrote:My sway bar looks exactly like yours. I'm asking Santa for a new one for Christmas! I'm enjoying reading your build!


Christmas is a long time away! I hope you get it before then. The doorman part is cheapest/fastest on Amazon if you have prime for free shipping: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KQCCFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I decided to put the body lift on tonight with the old pucks on the front for now (it won't be driven like this). Below are the passenger side subframe bushings. If you look closely at the upper front bushing on the right, you can see that the metal is extremely rotten.

Image

Putting body lift pucks on at the same time as new, slightly taller poly subframe bushings makes the OLV smaller diameter front and rear bolts difficult to reach the threads, so letting the van sit while I wait for new front cups will smush them down a little more. On Saturday I'm going to grease them and reinstall them this time with loctite blue.

Here is a crappy before and after picture of the van after bodylifting the front:

Before:
Image

After:
Image

Kind of a crappy comparison, but you can see the bushings seem to add height, and I think they are not supposed to sag out as much in the long run. I like this because some reading I've been doing recently has made me like the idea of cranking the torsion bars out less and less. Maybe I will only have to crank the torsion bars for 1 inch and that seems it might help my new front end last longer.
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby tanvanmanwithaplan [OP] » October 16th 2014, 5:16am

Final update before I gulp two beers and go to bed...

I'm not sure if this is because my surface isn't completely level, or because of the fresh taller bushings but the van is taller than 2" of body lift. What's worrying me is this line... well, three things.

Image

1. What is this line?
2. Is it OK that it looks a little stressed or bendy-ish
3. If not, what should I do? Disconnect? Relocate?
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby Lumpy » October 16th 2014, 6:14am

Front end looks good lifted like that. Even looks spooky cool with the headlights out there in space. Like some kind of big bug!

I believe those are your oil cooler lines? Although I thought the stock oil cooler was on the driver side of the radiator. Power steering cooler lines? Someone with an oil cooler or a PS cooler (I don't have either) will verify or correct.

Whatever the lines are, it brings up a point I like to make when anyone is considering a lift...Jack a little, look EVERYWHERE for problems, lines, hoses, wiring etc. You're splitting the vehicle in half. Part of it stays down, other part goes up. The connections between the two halves get tweaked. Keeping an eye on all parts of the van, from several angles, is a GOOD idea!

Lookin really good. Thanks for all the pics.


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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby SilverBullet1997 » October 16th 2014, 3:08pm

Those are Power Steering Oil Cooler lines, they should be fine like that, you can always give them a slight tweak, but not to hard as you can break split the tubing.

I cut mine and added a small radiator to the front of my radiator for my PS cooler, I didn't want that line going right under the bumper when I was offroading.
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby Lumpy » October 16th 2014, 3:24pm

SilverBullet1997 wrote:Those are Power Steering Oil Cooler lines, they should be fine like that, you can always give them a slight tweak, but not to hard as you can break split the tubing.

I cut mine and added a small radiator to the front of my radiator for my PS cooler, I didn't want that line going right under the bumper when I was offroading.


For those of us without PS coolers, is adding one as simple as splicing a cooler coil into the low pressure PS lines?


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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby tanvanmanwithaplan [OP] » October 16th 2014, 3:28pm

My power steering system has **** fluid everywhere. It's a mess. It works fine but it's on the list. How do I know if I have a transmission and oil cooler? All vans have the oil cooler, right?

I just don't know what to look for and I'm curious while we're on the subject.
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby Lumpy » October 16th 2014, 3:54pm

I think they all have a transmission cooler (warmer?) but they don't all have an oil cooler. My 89 does not have an oil cooler.

Image below you're looking at the back of the radiator, as if you were in the engine compartment. OIL cooler is on the L, driver side. Trans cooler is on the R, passenger side.

Image

I call it a transmission warmer(?) because it lives in contact with the side of the hot radiator. There used to be a guy on this forum that maintained that GM put it there to get the ATF up to 185 degrees, some kind of working temp for the transmission fluid. It's not the external transmission cooler that many talk about when towing.

The OEM oil cooler might be the same thing, more of a warmer than a cooler. I just don't know much about either. I do know that my trans never gets above about 160 at absolute hottest, most severe driving situation and I have an external, add-on trans cooler. I'm not sure what the temp was like before the cooler. I installed the temp gauge when I installed the cooler.


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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby 97cargocrawler » October 16th 2014, 5:16pm

tanvanmanwithaplan wrote:3. If not, what should I do? Disconnect? Relocate?


I rerouted those to the cupholder to keep my soup warm.
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby tanvanmanwithaplan [OP] » October 17th 2014, 3:10am

I can't get the top bolt off the drivers side rear shock. It just spins (with much effort) I had to break it loose using WD-40 and my leg. Do these strip out in the middle? I apologize if this is a stupid question but I am by no means an experienced mechanic. My Suzuki Sidekick I've gotten most of my experience on is from Louisiana (rust free unlike Missouri vehicles) so even though it's 10 years older than this bolts come of nicely :/

I'm gonna give it a couple more cranks, count threads and see if it goes anywhere, if not it might be time to cut it off?? Damn it.
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Re: 2001 OLV 4" Lift Start to Finish w/ Pics

Postby unrreal » October 17th 2014, 3:41am

No Don't cut it! The bolt goes right trough the frame to the other side jut put a wrench on the outside head of the bolt and ratchet it out from the inside.
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