My 305 TPI V8 swap (in progress)

[Mr_Roboto]

This site looks lonely without a V8 swap, so I figure even though it is not complete I will start by posting mine. It is currently stalled out until the weather warms up and cubic dollars are not an issue.



This is the TPI intake I got. I acquired the base from the engine I got, the rails plenum and the runners were bought off a member of http://www.thirdgen.org. It looks pretty awesome IMO, and besides that has decent characteristics for a mild to moderately hot 305 build.



My porting tools. I have a lot of time into the intake with these, mosty using the sanding drums.



Starting out, you can see the gasket material left. It potruded into the port significantly. I ended up replacing the gaskets with Mr. Gasket P.N. MRG-146. These are available through Auto Zone, Summit, Jegs and other palces. Notice the "lip" inside the port. It potrudes in almost 1/8 inch, and the stock gaskets actually stick inside the runner. I'm sure that it is not good for flow, especially if you've got some AS&M or SLP runners.



These are a couple of ports I have worked. This was done with only sanding drums. Notice how the entrance is massive compared to what it previously was. There was also a "bend" inside the left runner that has been smoothed down for a more even transition.



After starting the runners, I used a 6 inch extension on my grinder and did a little work on the insides of the port walls. These aren't perfect or near perfect, I just gave em a quick run over.



Runners from the head side. Not much work here, finished a quick run inside the runners and squared them up a bit with the "flat" sanding disc pictured above.



Plenum entrance. There are two "bumps" in front of the EGR holes here. Removed those, and the bevel at the entrance where the throttle body bolts in.



Where the runners bolt up, merged them together and enlarged them. This is for the plausible future acquisition of some SLP runners that would be heavily ported.



My runners. Not a heck of a lot you can do with stockers, so I just smoothed em a hair.



Stock intake port. notice the lip in the casting.



Lip removed. Sure I lost low end power with this, but hopefully it will help my top end. I guess time will tell.



These are the runners where they meet up with the intake. I enlarged the entrance because the core shift had caused there to be part of the port potruding into the intake area, which can cause turbulence. I smoothed this out with the flat disk then transitioned it in with the 3/4 drums and the 3/8 drums in the corners.



stock exhaust runner. note how much the valve guide potrudes into the port. Not good



Ported runner, I also cut the valve guide as you can see. I went all out on these, as the polishing reduces carbon and heat retention.



This is the stock exhaust port. You can get an idea of how much the valve guide potrudes into these heads, and how much the throat narrows.



Ported throat once again the valve guide cut. Becomes a lot more obvious how much matieral was removed from the guides, and once gaain no more lip either. I suspect this will be detrimental to the intake but far less detrimental to the exhaust since it's going out not in.

[Mr_Roboto]

My exhaust system:



Hedman 68600 headers, notice the bars between the pipes are removed.



These flanges were ground as if they were done by an epileptic monkey. There was a considerable burr you could feel on the faces, as if they faced them first then ground the inside down. If they would have reversed their manufacture it would probably cause significantly better sealing. I filed them down to promote better sealing. The plan is to use RTV red and no gaskets.



This was a big score, a 3 inch truck muffler. It is beat up looking, but hey it goes under the van right? For a grand total of $1.37 after tax I will not complain however.



Straight through design, can't complain about that a bit.



This will encompass most of the rest of the exhaust bits excluding a coupler or two and some 3 inch to make a dump with. The Y-pipe is a 3 to dual 2.5 inch transition I ordered from the local auto parts store for $35. The bends are 2.25 inch, and the adapters are inside the Y-pipe.

[Mr_Roboto]

My megasquirt, still have not quite climbed the learning curve on this one yet. Need to get there, just have not made it.



bit messy but this is where and how I tapped my harness. Everything is cut, soldered then heat shrinked. I don't want any issues out of this, and it allows me to swap my stock box back in about 15 minutes for the 4.3L; won't have the option of going back with the 305, it's too far from a stock engine to use any factory ECU without heavy chip modification.



Pic of my injector wiring. They are Grand National injectors should be about 28.5 lb/hour. The EGR port on this intake was filled with lead after this shot was taken.

[Mr_Roboto]

Assembled head. Springs are Competition Products "Z28" springs, and the valve seals are all the positive type. No smoking for me on start up please!



Black valve covers, I think they go pretty well with the orange heads. Would love some "M/T" tall finned valve covers for this engine.



head gaskets set on place on the dowel pins. These are Felpro gaskets and should compress down to .037 compressed thickness. I will lose some static compression because the stockers were .027. You may better off getting some shim type gaskets if you are going with a naturally aspirated build.



Torquing the heads, the bolts used were an ebay brand 170,000 PSI tensile head bolt. These are not as good as the top of the line ARPs but a big step up from stock and very budget oriented.



Intake on, everything buttoned up. The accessory brackets are for a carb setup and have had some mods done.



Other side, notice the prelm wires for modification of the harness and installing the MS-II on the stand.



Couldn't leave well enough alone. Adding cam to ditch the stock peice of junk. It specs to 204/[email protected] with .420 and .442 lift. The PN is Summit K1102. I got a killer deal on it from the third gen web site. It was initially what I wanted for my combo, in retrospect almost wish I would have gone bigger. Should be a huge step up from stock regardless.



Intake on my engine, just about off to throw the new cam in.



Me pulling out the old cam. This requires patience and some skill. Good thing I have neither.



Me lubing the shaft up. This stuff is seriously messy, and seriously sticky.





My buddy nick getting ready do the honors.



Mission accomplished.



Timing set on, used damper to install crank gear.



Where power robbing smog junk goes.

[coolen]

I'm sure there will be lots of info for me to use!! GREAT JOB!!!!

[chops]

nice Post Alex

[Mr_Roboto]

This was requested by Moboman, so here is a price break down of my engine's costs. I don't think it's complete by any means, but I'll have to dig some more probably.

TO GET
-new fuel filter ($10)
-PS pump belt (same as fan/alt/water pump belt) (~$3)
-exhaust piping
-turn down (3 inch) (use bend from muff&get pipe) (~$6)

X-tap to put set screw in oil pump
X-set screw for oil pump
X-cap for oil bung
X-CAM SWAP
X -new coolant $10 (have a gallon of green already)
X-find oil pump stud
X-water pump gaskets/front timing cover gaskets $8
X-Y-pipe 2.25 into 3 inch (maybe use 2.5 with reducers) $35 Magnaflow 10778 (Orielly)
X-mandrel bends (2.25) ($30) Voss Performance sale $30 3 in bends
X-PS pump&bracket (JY)-$20
X-RotellaT oil $12.50 Advance Auto
X-WB bung (LC-1 box) ($0)
X-V-belts $6
x-Fuel line fittings (JY or dealership)
-14&16mm Saginaw couplers (female->female) ($22)
x-Camaro TV cable-Orielly $16.75

TO DO
-install TV cable mount pin
-borrow hoist
X-bolt removal from block where PS pump is, or make new bracket
-modify harness (after engine is in)
X-install oil pump stud
X-make oil pump securing device or tack pick up
X-grind on engine mount to clear header
X-CAM SWAP
X-change front U-joint

X-TB post for TV cable
X-Grind engine mount down
X-coil bracket (Make or JY, probably make)
X-Bleed Drums
X-fix megasquirt
X-check PS pump fittings for size match on Camaro V-belt Vs. Astro Saginaw fittings
X-fix PS pump mount


JD 3 gallons Tractor fluid TY6354 (automatic transmission)
Jd TY6354-1 gal $20
Harvest king $30

total to date 1275.25

short block $225
intake parts (rails, runners FPR) $110
MS-II/WB $450
hedman 68600/swap mounnts $225
Thorttle body-35
HEI dist-35
injectors-40
straight pipe (3 inch) $10
Fuel Pump&install kit-$45

[moboman]

thanks

[wheels55]

Your project is looking good! Bout ready to start'er up?


It's been a project on the back burner for a while but.....

I have a 2001 Astro 2WD that we just successfully transplanted a 2007 Yukon 5.3L / 4L65e in to. Didn't even need to modify the drive shaft. Still room for a mechanical fan but going electric. Looks to be room left for long tube headers as well.

In the nasty wiring phase now....