ideas for diagnosing intermittent stall

[osopolar]

I've had an issue with my engine stalling 2x in the last couple of months.

My Van is not a daily driver, I probably drive it 10x a month, mostly for errands around town.

The first time the van had been parked a half a day. When I started, it ran right away but ran a bit rough as if it was starved for fuel. It stalled. I re-started, and repeated, so I raised the rpm, after a few minutes, eventually it would idle smooth.

Then I didn't have any problems for 2 months, and drove about 1000km total with zero problems.

The second time just yesterday, I started, drove 5 min, then came to a stop at a red light at a bit of an upwards incline. The engine started to run rough, again as if it was starved for fuel, and then it stalled. I then re-started, and it would idle just fine in Park, but as soon as I put it into gear, it would stall again. I rolled backwards onto level ground, then the van would idel and fine again in both park and drive and I could drive back home (Note I had an almost full tank of gas at the time)

No recent work accept new battery and oil change about 3 months ago.

Power seems normal when driving/accelerating.

Hopefully I added enough detail to generate some ideas.

[Rod's Trucks]

I would begin with a fresh fuel filter unless you know it has been changed in the last 10K or so, miles. Not driving it much can cause the fuel to collect water, and the associated sludge can plug a filter.
It is a bit messy, but not difficult, with the proper tools.
If it always starts up with no difficulty, then it probably is not the fuel pump. If you also have some trouble getting it to start from cold, then you might want to get a fuel pressure test done (key in and engine on should be about 55# or more); then key off and engine off, to see what happens to the fuel rail pressure when the pumps shuts off. ( pressure should stay up for quite a while).
Hopefully it will be something fairly simple.

Rod J

[Bossman]

I am having the same thing occasionally happen lately with my 05 cargo. It just turned 200,000 miles and runs fine at all speeds above idle.
I have DashCommand and it shows the idle air control valve "counts". At idle, normally the counts number should be close to 50. Mine is showing 95 to 105 counts, even when it is idling decent. That tells me that it's time to clean the IAC valve and the throttle body. I may replace the IAC valve because of the high mileage instead of just cleaning the old one. From what I understand it is best to remove the throttle body to clean it. Maybe someone will chime in that has done this work-
I love this site!

Mike

[osopolar]

Great idea, I will start with changing the fuel filter since it is relatively easy/inexpensive.

I changed the fuel filter about 2 years ago and almost 10k miles, but it has been sitting a fair bit at times, and here in Vancouver it's really humid in the winter.

can an ODB2 scanner tell you fuel pressure?

I would begin with a fresh fuel filter unless you know it has been changed in the last 10K or so, miles. Not driving it much can cause the fuel to collect water, and the associated sludge can plug a filter.
It is a bit messy, but not difficult, with the proper tools.
If it always starts up with no difficulty, then it probably is not the fuel pump. If you also have some trouble getting it to start from cold, then you might want to get a fuel pressure test done (key in and engine on should be about 55# or more); then key off and engine off, to see what happens to the fuel rail pressure when the pumps shuts off. ( pressure should stay up for quite a while).
Hopefully it will be something fairly simple.

Rod J

[Rod's Trucks]

Sorry,
I cannot answer your question about a scanner reading fuel pressure.
My '98 will not read out fuel pressure on the scanner, but maybe the newer models will.
Others can probably confirm this one way or the other.
Rod J

[Leeann_93]

No. You have to have a fuel injection pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel pressure (feed) line at the back of the driver's side head to see fuel pressure.

[Yaycandy]

Mine would stall from the jector wires shorting out against the intake manifold on the spider jector. Would always pop a fuse.

[AstroWill]

Would definitely check the fuel pressure, but be prepared to replace the pump.

[Mmusicman]

Great idea, I will start with changing the fuel filter since it is relatively easy/inexpensive.
I changed the fuel filter about 2 years ago and almost 10k miles, but it has been sitting a fair bit at times, and here in Vancouver it's really humid in the winter...

I still have never changed a fuel filter.. ever.
Got 240K on my 2000, and well over 300K on my 92.
I guess I'm overdue? ...
(I even bought one for my 2000, but still haven't got around to it)

PS: Personally, I doubt the filter is your stalling issue.. (but I could be wrong)
(I'm also pretty sure a filter doesn't filter out moisture)
But a fresh filter certainly can't hurt. It's cheap, and easy enough to do.

Would definitely check the fuel pressure, but be prepared to replace the pump.

This is good advice, and certainly a possibility...

Another easy fix/diagnosis would be to wiggle (or swap) relays.. particularly the fuel pump relay.
Try wiggling wires/connectors too (while running)