Looking for a place to start.......

Looking for a place to start.......

Postby Trendkiller13 [OP] » January 20th 2012, 8:34pm

I have a 88 Astro (with a V6) and when driving it just died, very quick and that was all she wrote. It will crank over very slowly (like the battery is almost dead) and occasionally it will try and run for a few seconds but it shakes back and forth and sounds like crap. I am just not sure where I should start looking for the problem. Thank for any ideas.

Also I just found this forum and there is a ton on info on here!

Dan
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Re: Looking for a place to start.......

Postby uknoLSXtro » January 20th 2012, 11:05pm

Welcome to astrosafari

Just a few low cost or free things to check.
Get the battery checked
new Cap & rotar
Ohm out your plug wires
new spark plugs
Compression test or leakdown test
Change the oil (check for gas in the oil)
Clean the carb

Post a video of you trying to start it. Also has it been blowing black or white smoke out the back?
Obedient workers, just smart enough to run the machines, do the paperwork. Just dumb enough to passively accept the increasingly **** jobs and lower pay, the longer hours, reduced benefits, end of overtime, etc. -Paraphrased -George Carlin
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Re: Looking for a place to start.......

Postby 97cargocrawler » January 20th 2012, 11:57pm

Do you hear the fuel pump kick on before you start it? A sort of whining sound coming from middle rear of the floor....

If not, then maybe it's your fuel pump.
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Re: Looking for a place to start.......

Postby Trendkiller13 [OP] » January 21st 2012, 12:38am

Picked up some stuff, like cap, rotor and plugs/wires. Working on the install on that now. When it tries to run it is like the timing is way out of whack, so I do not think it is the fuel pump.

Thanks for the replies!

Dan
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Re: Looking for a place to start.......

Postby ZiLLa » February 19th 2012, 11:18pm

Crank sensor is my bet......
How to Test the Crank Sensor
GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L
-Part I-

Enlarge

This article will help you to troubleshoot and diagnose a BAD Crankshaft Position Sensor on your 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L Vortec equipped GM Pick Up or SUV.

Since the 3-wire Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor can not be tested by a Multimeter resistance test (Ohms), I’ve written this article to show you how to do it with just a Multimeter in Volts DC mode. This is a very accurate and effective test and will help you to know if it’s good or BAD.

Since this Crankshaft Position Sensor Test article covers quite a few GM Years, Makes and Models, take a look at the ‘Applies To:’ box on the right and scroll with the ‘Next > >’ button to see all of the applications. Also, the info in this article is geared towards diagnosing and troubleshooting a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition - No Start No Spark Condition.

Here are the contents of this article at a quick glance:

Imortant Suggestions.
Symptoms of a BAD CKP Sensor.
How the Crank (CKP) Sensor Works
CKP TEST 1: Crank Signal Test.
CKP TEST 2: Power Circuit.
CKP TEST 3: Ground Circuit.
Related Test Articles.

Important Suggestions

Suggestion 1: The Crank Sensor test I'm gonna' show you in this article, is one of the most accurate ways to test the Crank Sensor without an oscilloscope (and using only a Multimeter) only if you turn the Engine by hand. You'll need to use a 1/2 Ratchet Wrench and the appropriate socket to turn the Crankshaft Pulley.

Suggestion 2: It's very important that the Spider's Fuel Injector's connector be disconnected while performing the Crankshaft Position Sensor test. Unplugging this connector will disable the Computer from injecting Fuel into the Engine.
Tools Needed to Test the Crank Sensor Sensor

You don't need any expensive tools to test the Crank Sensor on your 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engine.

Tools You’ll Need:

Multimeter.
You can use a Digital Multimeter or an Analog Multimeter although the Digital one is the preferred one.
If you don't have a Multimeter or need to upgrade yours, check out my recommendation here: Abe's Multimeter Recommendation (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
1/2 inch Ratchet Wrench
Socket that will fit Crankshaft Pulley Bolt.
A helper.

Symptoms of a BAD Crankshaft Position Sensor

The most common symptom of a BAD Crank Sensor is a ‘Cranks but Does Not Start Condition’. In other words, your GM vehicle will Crank over when you turn the key to the Start Position but will not Start. Below is a simple list of more specific symptoms that accompany a BAD Crank Sensor:

The Ignition System will not produce Spark:
The Ignition Coil will not Spark.
No Spark from all of the Spark Plug Wires.
The Ignition Control Module will not receive a Triggering Signal and without this Triggering Signal, the Module will not Switch the Ignition Coil ON and OFF to produce Spark.
The PCM (Powertrain Control Module=Fuel Injection Computer) will not pulse the Fuel Injectors.
The PCM will not activate the Fuel Pump after the initial priming voltage that the PCM sends to it when you turn the Key to the On position and then to the Start Position.
The PCM will usually NOT set a specific BAD Crankshaft Position Sensor Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) when the Crank Sensor goes rogue (goes bad). But, every now and then it does, and when it does you’ll get:
P0336 CKP Sensor Circuit Performance.
P0337 CKP Sensor Circuit Low Frequency Code.
P0338 CKP Sensor Circuit High Frequency Code.
P0339 CKP Sensor Circuit Intermittent.

The most important thing to remember, is that if you get Spark from any Spark Plug Wire, the Crank Sensor is working and the test in this article won't help you.


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Re: Looking for a place to start.......

Postby Phantom » February 20th 2012, 12:15am

ZiLLa wrote:Crank sensor is my bet......
How to Test the Crank Sensor
GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L
-Part I-

Enlarge

This article will help you to troubleshoot and diagnose a BAD Crankshaft Position Sensor on your 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L Vortec equipped GM Pick Up or SUV.

Since the 3-wire Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor can not be tested by a Multimeter resistance test (Ohms), I’ve written this article to show you how to do it with just a Multimeter in Volts DC mode. This is a very accurate and effective test and will help you to know if it’s good or BAD.

Since this Crankshaft Position Sensor Test article covers quite a few GM Years, Makes and Models, take a look at the ‘Applies To:’ box on the right and scroll with the ‘Next > >’ button to see all of the applications. Also, the info in this article is geared towards diagnosing and troubleshooting a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition - No Start No Spark Condition.

Here are the contents of this article at a quick glance:

Imortant Suggestions.
Symptoms of a BAD CKP Sensor.
How the Crank (CKP) Sensor Works
CKP TEST 1: Crank Signal Test.
CKP TEST 2: Power Circuit.
CKP TEST 3: Ground Circuit.
Related Test Articles.

Important Suggestions

Suggestion 1: The Crank Sensor test I'm gonna' show you in this article, is one of the most accurate ways to test the Crank Sensor without an oscilloscope (and using only a Multimeter) only if you turn the Engine by hand. You'll need to use a 1/2 Ratchet Wrench and the appropriate socket to turn the Crankshaft Pulley.

Suggestion 2: It's very important that the Spider's Fuel Injector's connector be disconnected while performing the Crankshaft Position Sensor test. Unplugging this connector will disable the Computer from injecting Fuel into the Engine.
Tools Needed to Test the Crank Sensor Sensor

You don't need any expensive tools to test the Crank Sensor on your 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engine.

Tools You’ll Need:

Multimeter.
You can use a Digital Multimeter or an Analog Multimeter although the Digital one is the preferred one.
If you don't have a Multimeter or need to upgrade yours, check out my recommendation here: Abe's Multimeter Recommendation (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
1/2 inch Ratchet Wrench
Socket that will fit Crankshaft Pulley Bolt.
A helper.

Symptoms of a BAD Crankshaft Position Sensor

The most common symptom of a BAD Crank Sensor is a ‘Cranks but Does Not Start Condition’. In other words, your GM vehicle will Crank over when you turn the key to the Start Position but will not Start. Below is a simple list of more specific symptoms that accompany a BAD Crank Sensor:

The Ignition System will not produce Spark:
The Ignition Coil will not Spark.
No Spark from all of the Spark Plug Wires.
The Ignition Control Module will not receive a Triggering Signal and without this Triggering Signal, the Module will not Switch the Ignition Coil ON and OFF to produce Spark.
The PCM (Powertrain Control Module=Fuel Injection Computer) will not pulse the Fuel Injectors.
The PCM will not activate the Fuel Pump after the initial priming voltage that the PCM sends to it when you turn the Key to the On position and then to the Start Position.
The PCM will usually NOT set a specific BAD Crankshaft Position Sensor Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) when the Crank Sensor goes rogue (goes bad). But, every now and then it does, and when it does you’ll get:
P0336 CKP Sensor Circuit Performance.
P0337 CKP Sensor Circuit Low Frequency Code.
P0338 CKP Sensor Circuit High Frequency Code.
P0339 CKP Sensor Circuit Intermittent.

The most important thing to remember, is that if you get Spark from any Spark Plug Wire, the Crank Sensor is working and the test in this article won't help you.

Good info ....but a 1988 astro does not have a crank sensor,, that feature started in 96 :)
Phantom
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Re: Looking for a place to start.......

Postby Phantom » February 20th 2012, 12:18am

Trendkiller13 wrote:Picked up some stuff, like cap, rotor and plugs/wires. Working on the install on that now. When it tries to run it is like the timing is way out of whack, so I do not think it is the fuel pump.

Thanks for the replies!

Dan

Check the fuel pressure it should be 9-14 psi if you have a TBI ,, if carb it will be close a little less

Check your spark a bad coil can do that
Phantom
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Re: Looking for a place to start.......

Postby astrofixitist » February 20th 2012, 7:10am

No crank position sensor but I had an "89 do that on me and if I remember correctly, there was a Hall Effect switch mounted near the distributor, or under the dist cap that went bad. This item sends engine rpm info to the ECM and would cause symptoms you are describing since it would be in a default signal mode . Mine went without warning in a parking lot and wouldn't even start. Should be easy to get to ,Haynes/others give a couple of quick checks with a voltmeter to confirm.
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Re: Looking for a place to start.......

Postby ZiLLa » February 21st 2012, 8:08am

Have you had a load test done on the batt?????Always start simple,you would be amazed at what a bad battery connect can do to a OBD1 & OBD 2 sytem,more electronics = more draw,if the batt can't keep up=your stuck.Have the battery checked & check all connects,always start simple & work from there.
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