2000 GMC Safari turns over fires intermittent no start

[Isuzuguru]

Ok I’ve lurked around this forum a long time gaining much needed information for these vans but now I am seriously in need of help. I’ve had all different electrical issues (fuel, temperature, trans position indicator gauges intermittent), this “no start” issue that I thought I had cured with a Crankshaft position sensor, (definitely was a problem that needed addressed), replaced the alternator reluctantly because I knew it would still have the problems with or without a new alternator, new battery, I just dove down the distributor and cap rabbit hole, also pulled my EGR cleaned it up, all my O2 sensors, pulled and tested every fuse and relay on the vehicle, it’s been a wire witch hunt because I know that’s what it’s gotta be is a short somewhere and I’m not good at tracking down wires. So I guess if anyone can maybe send me in the right direction or has patience and can work through this with me that’d be tremendous cause I’m currently marooned about 10hrs from home and have been now for 5 days.

[AstroOafAdventurer]

Check fuel?

[Leeann_93]

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

Have you tried to start with carb cleaner (starting fluid can be a bit explosive)?

How are you sure it's a wire/fire issue and not a fuel issue?

[Isuzuguru]

I’m not sure at all it’s not a fuel issue I haven’t gotten that far or had access to fuel pressure testing equipment but was gonna attempt to make one with an A/C recharge gauge.

[Isuzuguru]

Ok just got back to service. To update this and I apologize there’s a lot of info/story on this but here we go. I had replaced the distributor and gotten the timing off. Ended up methodically going through and making 100% sure I had TDC with the original distributor back in and got it running with starter fluid again. There is currently no codes but it had The Mass air flow code along with a O2 sensor low voltage code before I did the distributor shennannagin. I did however by random luck find an area where the wire harness was smashed/crimped while I was trying to find a new coolant leak. It’s near the drivers side bottom corner of the radiator and two of the thickest wires (orange and Green) had exposed wire. I did my best to get them taped and at the least not able to short on the body or each other. That did cure the fuel gauge and temp gauge issue but I am still stalling sometimes and only starting with starting fluid.

[Leeann_93]

If you're only starting with starting fluid, you have a fuel problem.

Most LAPS have a loaner tool program and can 'loan' you the fuel injection pressure tester required.

[AstroOafAdventurer]

LAPS around me aren't renting tools due to Covid...
I found out looking for a vac pump and gauges for my AC

[Isuzuguru]

Ok sorry it’s been a bit since I’ve been able to get back on here. I just bought a fuel pressure gauge and I’m getting about 47-49 lbs holding steady now for about 15 min. Just a quick recap I replaced the distributor and it turned out it was bad out of the box the rotor would just spin (with the downshaft in place) so if you understand what I’m saying trying to get correct timing is not going to happen. Took the part back to Napa and I’ll have a new one in the morning. I have a fuel pump an from the looks of the pressure I’ll be using it to replace the one currently in the vehicle tonight.

[Isuzuguru]

Man I like the old 4.3L pre “Vortec” I owned about 5 or more S10 4x4 pickups and a couple 2 door GMC JIMMYS never had any issues like these. They were throttle body injected just seems like they would just run.