'90 Safari 4.3 Standard Tune Up

[98cirider]

Apologies if this is an old topic. I want to do a more thorough tune up on my '90 Safari, 4.3L. What I have read on the forum is that I should use ACDelco parts. I have previoulsy changed the plugs, air filter, fuel filter, PCV, as a simple tune up. However, the engine as 212,000 miles and I have never touched the Distributor or wires. It is now time for new plugs, so I thought I would do a full tune up. I was also thinking it may improve mileage and faster starting.

Do the parts I have found on Checker's website seem acceptable? What is the difference between the two Distributor Caps listed? Or what should a standard replacement Distributor Cap cost?

ACDelco Distributor Cap
Part No. D314A $14.99
Part No. D580A $31.99
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductList ... 2fCap+Kits

ACDelco Rotor, Distributor
Part No: D446 $5.99

ACDelco Spark Plug: Std.
Part No. CR43TS $2.09

ACDelco Wire Kit,Splg
Part No: 9616W $32.99

Thanks for any input.

David

[ghostrider1061]

when i did a tune-up on my 87 i upgraded the plugs to bosch twin s. they have two eleectrodes. i got all my parts at my local auto zone. cap,plugs,rotor,and wires. i came home and put them on. i am very happwith the end results. i also put on a new air filter and cherry bomb glass pack muffler. like the sound. low tone moan when things are running rite.

[Bertscova]

I use Standard ignition parts but that is just preference. a quality cap and rotor should have brass contacts. I do use the AC Delco spark plugs. AC Delco is a re-boxer meaning they do not make most of the part with there name on it. If you want real quality go with Echlin, Echlin Products Meet Or Exceed Original Equipment Specifications. All Products Are Top-Of-The-Line Quality & 100% Tested & Inspected In An Environment That Is ISO9000 Compliant. Echlin is available at any Napa.

http://www.napaonline.com/default.aspx

Hope this helps

[Leeann_93]

NAPA-Echlin caps and rotors failed on my Bravada within 100 miles. Twice.

Never again...only AC Delco/Delphi from now on for me, same on plugs. On wires I go with Autolite Professional and have never had a problem.

[98cirider]

Greetings all. Well, it's been a few months and over 7,000 miles since I installed the new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Nothing much changed after I performed this tune-up. One of my goals from that tune-up was to improve how fast the engine starts.

The engine now has just over 219,000 miles. The Check Engine list has not come on.

It's not terrible, but I do need to crank the engine for at least five seconds before it starts. That is only when cold. After it's been running, restarting takes just a few cranks or a couple seconds.

My only concern is that if it keeps taking longer and longer to start, one day, it may not start.

Can anyone offer suggestions on components to check or replace? From my searches on the forum, I think I should look at the fuel pump, (perhaps low pressure), or maybe the EGR valve. I replaced the fuel filter around 60K miles ago with a Deutsch FF504. Still running the original fuel pump.

Thanks for any input.

David

[Leeann_93]

Refresh my memory - what kind/capacity of battery do you have and have you had it tested?

[98cirider]

Refresh my memory - what kind/capacity of battery do you have and have you had it tested?

The battery was installed in June 2003, around 90,000 miles ago. Wow, I didn't realize it was that old.

Autozone's Duralast Gold
Part number: 78-DG
Cold Cranking Amps: 800
Cranking Amps at 32 degrees: 1000
Reserve Capacity: 110

The engine cranks over with ease. I do not have a sense that the battery is weak.

Could it stil be a problem?

I have not had it tested, since it cranks the engine so well.

David

[Leeann_93]

I was curious since you said it's the first start of the day that's the problem, not subsequent restarts. This could be caused by a battery with a weak cell(s).

[Astroplane]

Check fuel pump relay. It may be using the oil pressure sender as a backup which requires oil pressure greater than 4 psi.

[98cirider]

Check fuel pump relay. It may be using the oil pressure sender as a backup which requires oil pressure greater than 4 psi.

Astroplane,

How do I check the fuel pump relay?

So, you are saying that GM used enough sophisticated technology to have the oil pressure sender step in as a back up to a failed fuel pump relay?

David

[astro355]

Check fuel pump relay. It may be using the oil pressure sender as a backup which requires oil pressure greater than 4 psi.

The real question is does the OP hear the fuel pump kick on when the ignition is turned to the start position?

I would put a fuel pressure gauge on the van and see what that looks like. If it takes a couple extra seconds for the fuel pump to build the pressure, I would want to know.

To the OP, does it matter if the engine is cranking or you're just setting there with the ignition in the start position letting the fuel pump build pressure? If you are not sure, try it once. Instead of cranking the engine the next time you try and start it, just turn the ignition on and wait. Then try and start the van.

[Astroplane]

How do I check the fuel pump relay?

Wiring diagram helps. You can jump the Gray and Orange wire terminals on the vehicle connector and see if the pump runs. You may be able to swap with A/C relay to test.

So, you are saying that GM used enough sophisticated technology to have the oil pressure sender step in as a back up to a failed fuel pump relay?

Very simple design. Some drivers may not even notice the relay has failed except for extended cranking.

[astro355]

How do I check the fuel pump relay?

Wiring diagram helps. You can jump the Gray and Orange wire terminals on the vehicle connector and see if the pump runs. You may be able to swap with A/C relay to test.

So, you are saying that GM used enough sophisticated technology to have the oil pressure sender step in as a back up to a failed fuel pump relay?

Very simple design. Some drivers may not even notice the relay has failed except for extended cranking.

I have run mine off of just the oil pressure sender and didn't have extended cranking.

[Astroplane]

I have run mine off of just the oil pressure sender and didn't have extended cranking.

I'll bet your engine is in better health than most. 4 psi doesn't take long to reach the sender.

[98cirider]

Check fuel pump relay. It may be using the oil pressure sender as a backup which requires oil pressure greater than 4 psi.

The real question is does the OP hear the fuel pump kick on when the ignition is turned to the start position?

I would put a fuel pressure gauge on the van and see what that looks like. If it takes a couple extra seconds for the fuel pump to build the pressure, I would want to know.

To the OP, does it matter if the engine is cranking or you're just setting there with the ignition in the start position letting the fuel pump build pressure? If you are not sure, try it once. Instead of cranking the engine the next time you try and start it, just turn the ignition on and wait. Then try and start the van.

I normally just put the key in and crank immediately.
I just performed the following experiment starting the van, here is what I did:
1. Turned the key to light everything up, but not crank the engine. I heard an electric motor sound, (I assume the fuel pump) coming from the rear of the van which last 2 to 3 seconds, followed by a slight click from under the hood. I waited a few more seconds and cranked the engine. It still cranked over several seconds before starting. Let it run for about 5 seconds and turned it off.
2. After turning the engine off in Step 1, waited about 3 seconds, and cranked again to start it. It still cranked for several seconds and then started. Let it run for about 5 seconds and turned it off.
3. After turning the engine off in Step 2, waited about 5 seconds and cranked again to start it. It cranked a second or two and started. Then turned it off.
4. After turning the engine off in Step 3, waited about 2 minutes, then turned the key to light everything up. I could hear the electric motor sound from the rear, and it started right up.

Does this point the diagnosis in any specific direction?

David

[Astroplane]

I have run mine off of just the oil pressure sender and didn't have extended cranking.

Wait a minute...You shifty bounty hunter...you have an accelerator pump, don't you?

[Astroplane]

Does this point the diagnosis in any specific direction?

As astro355 said, a test gauge would let you see what is actually happening during your 3 step test. Try cycling the key to ON three times before you start it. It sounds like the pump is holding its' prime, but taking time to build pressure. Even though you have no CEL, have you checked for codes?

[98cirider]

Does this point the diagnosis in any specific direction?

As astro355 said, a test gauge would let you see what is actually happening during your 3 step test. Try cycling the key to ON three times before you start it. It sounds like the pump is holding its' prime, but taking time to build pressure. Even though you have no CEL, have you checked for codes?

I performed the test as you suggested.
Turned the key to light everything up, listened to the fuel pump run, then stop.
Turned the key off for a second, then back on as above.
Repeated for a total of three times.

Then cranked to start. It still cranked for 5-7 seconds before starting.

I do not have the equipment to check for codes. There are no warning lights.

David

[astro355]

I would get a fuel pressure gauge and measure the pressure. I'm willing to bet that the reason it takes so long to start your van is because you are not building pressure like you should be.

The fuel pump shutting off a couple seconds after you turn the ignition on without the engine running is normal. That right there means that the relay and oil pressure sender are ok.

[astro355]

I have run mine off of just the oil pressure sender and didn't have extended cranking.

I'll bet your engine is in better health than most. 4 psi doesn't take long to reach the sender.

Actually, it doesn't take any engine a long time to build 4 psi at the oil pressure sender.