engine oil leak problem?

[rem]

So i noticed that i had an oil leak and found that it was were the oil line screws in/out of the engine oil cooler. Its leaking from the bottom one not sure if its entry or exit. Any ways tried to tighten it but its pretty much maxed out. Ive been doing some reading and to my understanding it would be the O ring that would be dried up or just plain old. So my question is there actually an O ring there because im not sure and if yes can i buy those sepratly because the lines are looking fine, or should I just change the whole lines? thanks alot in advance for answers!

[ihatemybike]

Welcome to the site.

The oil cooler lines/adapter have been known too leak with age. The lines can have the crimping cut off and replaced with pipe clamps, the adapter can get new gaskets or the whole thing can be removed. Use the search and you'll find examples of each.

[astroturf]

Here you go Rem. It is one with some pix. Not the best in the world, But that's where you come in to improve what we have for the next guy. Hope it helps, Jim
viewtopic.php?f=43&t=3428&start=0&hilit=oil+cooler+lines+leaking

[Gary]

My two cents is fix it right with replacement lines and and a new adapter gasket(O-ring).The logic is oil is the life blood of engines and with a failure it "could" cost you a engine which would be tons more expensive than the correct repair parts.Aaron and I have seen guys remove the oil lines and adapter to remove the oil cooler function.I am not a big fan of that.I think GM did that because of the tight engine quarters.You don't have a oil temp gauge,so if at some point it got too hot,you wouldn't know it until it was too late.To replace the adapter gasket,you have to take off the oil filter and you will see two bolts that hold it on the engine.Assuming you have already removed the cooler lines,just drop off the adapter and remove the gasket.Clean the adapter really good and the oil filter area on the engine.Put it back together in the reverse order and replace the lines.

I would suggest you do on a warm engine a oil change first.Once have it all back together I suggest you replace the oil filter with a Wex brand name filter.I has gotten excellent reviews.I used one on the 1994 LT I own and found it works very well.

[Mr_Bowtie]

If the lines are leaking at least delete them until you have money to replace them that way you aren't taking any risk with leaky lines.

I have deleted the oil cooler lines on two GM vehicles('87 Iroc & '92 Astro) without any problems or signs of more wear cause the oil cooler lines no longer helping cool the oil.

My '90 Safari didn't even have a oil cooler option on it & it ran just fine.

[rem]

Thanks alot for all this info guys! this forum is awsome! ill swing by napa and c how much a whole new line with fittings would cost! Im driving this van across canada at the end of the month so figured it be better to change the whole thing! ill keep you guys posted on how this goes! thanks again

[ihatemybike]

I believe the lines are dealer only, that's why we repair them.

[bonjoey]

i deleted the oil cooler lines on my previous 97 safari, noticed the oil pressure raised a bit and it made the other weak seals leaked (front and rear of the engine). if it doesn't leak that much, i would'nt worry about it.

[Gary]

I believe the lines are dealer only, that's why we repair them.

Aaron is right about it being a dealer part.I would suggest you find a shop that would convert it to AN fittings with braided steel lines.A good place to look would be a shop that builds lines for like back hoe's for construction equipment.I have one here in Roch,NY and his work in first class at a really good price.That way you fix it once and fix it right.Crimped ends that would never leak again.

[astroturf]

Aaron is right about it being a dealer part.I would suggest you find a shop that would convert it to AN fittings with braided steel lines.A good place to look would be a shop that builds lines for like back hoe's for construction equipment.I have one here in Roch,NY and his work in first class at a really good price.That way you fix it once and fix it right.Crimped ends that would never leak again.

Good idea. What would the Price Point of that mod be?

[LEVE]

Good idea. What would the Price Point of that mod be?

What a great question.

Last fall I was wrapping up resurrecting a '96 Caravan. There was a fracture in one of the AC lines. In construction it was very similar to the oil cooler lines. I took it to the local hydraulic "House of Hose" , a place that could easily rebuild it. I was told it would take about $100 to do the rebuild. Had the ends been "normal" it would have been about $30, far less than the dealer cost.

The fittings on the hose were very specific... and costly. I opted to just go to the local Pick n' Pull and buy one for $3 and reinstall it. Of the 11 Caravans I looked in, the last one was the only one that had it intact. I was getting pretty worried.

The only way you'll really know the price of the modification... is when you go to get the estimate. Just be sure you take your first born in with you to give them as you empty the contents of you wallet on their counter.

IMHO, if you can keep those lines stock, you're (and your wallet) will be better off. You'll always be able to get a replacement line. And, when you're in the junk yard again, see a stock line, you can get it for cheap and squirrel it away for another day. At least that works for me.

[Gary]

Well just one man's suggestion on the repair.I know Leve that approach is cheaper than the O.E.M. dealer replacement part.I do suggest that way over a junk yard part being it is new and it is a very,very,important.

Guess with all due respect to you,I am saying that if yours is leaking,it is likely over time a junk yard one would too.I mean surely there are somethings you can replace from a junk yard,but I don't believe this is one of them.In my opinion by having one built is a more permanent repair that is safer and is better than the O.E.M. one.

[LEVE]

I can agree that using Junk Yard parts isn't always the best way to effect a repair. It depends on the condition of the part that you're going to use. The '96 Caravan I resurrected was given to my Daughter and her family to use. I'm not going to skimp on parts, nor am I going to use shoddy parts, new, used, rebuilt, or otherwise.

In the case of these oil lines I can see the general condition of the line as I remove it. I can see if they've been bent or gouged, rubbed or kinked. When I go to the Yard to pull parts I carry a can of spray carb cleaner, a vial of lube and hand cleaner with lots of towels. That way I can remove grease and debris and examine the part. I can clean, lube and then examine the O-rings on the ends of the fittings for cracks, crush patterns and cross threads. All those things let me know if that line is worth installing on my van. Even if the O-rings were bad, I can still get those O-rings replaced at a local rebuilder for a lot less that rebuilding/buying the whole assembly.

I'll give you two examples on the '93 van I'm rebuilding for my use, one critical, one not critical. The van I bought was a salvage van, and there's been lots of shortcuts in the "Little Things" when it was rebuilt and re-titled by the PO.

I was at the Yard yesterday and pulled a power lock switch. I looked at vans that only had the doors intact, and the windows rolled up to prevent the elements from ruining the switch. I carried in a multimeter and checked the condition of the switch from the donor van. The fist one I found was bad in one direction. It would fail 1 out of 12 times as it was switched. I didn't take that switch. The second one I found was exercised and it worked fine for 100 cycles. That's a good switch.

Last month I replaced the oil cooler line on my van I installed a used one. Granted it did not have O-rings, it had compression fittings. But I still sprayed the inside of that line to see what was coming out of it and sprayed down the outside of it to see if it was free of gouges and rub marks. Since it was free, and it had not been over tightened, I figured it would hold pressure quite well. I looked at the donor to make sure it wasn't a hit to the front of the van that would have stressed the line. I examined the hydraulic hose sections to make sure it had not been hitting the front of the running gear or framing as it snaked up to the radiator fitting. All looked good.

Both parts were installed, and I wasn't disappointed. If you're going to install used parts, you'd best know to look for to evaluate their condition and how removal and re-installation will affect the part. As in most things in life it's a matter of knowledge. If you don't have that knowledge, don't use this method.

[astroturf]

I can agree that using Junk Yard parts isn't always the best way to effect a repair. It depends on the condition of the part that you're going to use. The '96 Caravan I resurrected was given to my Daughter and her family to use. I'm not going to skimp on parts, nor am I going to use shoddy parts, new, used, rebuilt, or otherwise.

In the case of these oil lines I can see the general condition of the line as I remove it. I can see if they've been bent or gouged, rubbed or kinked. When I go to the Yard to pull parts I carry a can of spray carb cleaner, a vial of lube and hand cleaner with lots of towels. That way I can remove grease and debris and examine the part. I can clean, lube and then examine the O-rings on the ends of the fittings for cracks, crush patterns and cross threads. All those things let me know if that line is worth installing on my van. Even if the O-rings were bad, I can still get those O-rings replaced at a local rebuilder for a lot less that rebuilding/buying the whole assembly.

I'll give you two examples on the '93 van I'm rebuilding for my use, one critical, one not critical. The van I bought was a salvage van, and there's been lots of shortcuts in the "Little Things" when it was rebuilt and re-titled by the PO.

I was at the Yard yesterday and pulled a power lock switch. I looked at vans that only had the doors intact, and the windows rolled up to prevent the elements from ruining the switch. I carried in a multimeter and checked the condition of the switch from the donor van. The fist one I found was bad in one direction. It would fail 1 out of 12 times as it was switched. I didn't take that switch. The second one I found was exercised and it worked fine for 100 cycles. That's a good switch.

Last month I replaced the oil cooler line on my van I installed a used one. Granted it did not have O-rings, it had compression fittings. But I still sprayed the inside of that line to see what was coming out of it and sprayed down the outside of it to see if it was free of gouges and rub marks. Since it was free, and it had not been over tightened, I figured it would hold pressure quite well. I looked at the donor to make sure it wasn't a hit to the front of the van that would have stressed the line. I examined the hydraulic hose sections to make sure it had not been hitting the front of the running gear or framing as it snaked up to the radiator fitting. All looked good.

Both parts were installed, and I wasn't disappointed. If you're going to install used parts, you'd best know to look for to evaluate their condition and how removal and re-installation will affect the part. As in most things in life it's a matter of knowledge. If you don't have that knowledge, don't use this method.

Great Answer Leve. Jim

[Gary]

I can agree that using Junk Yard parts isn't always the best way to effect a repair. It depends on the condition of the part that you're going to use. The '96 Caravan I resurrected was given to my Daughter and her family to use. I'm not going to skimp on parts, nor am I going to use shoddy parts, new, used, rebuilt, or otherwise.

In the case of these oil lines I can see the general condition of the line as I remove it. I can see if they've been bent or gouged, rubbed or kinked. When I go to the Yard to pull parts I carry a can of spray carb cleaner, a vial of lube and hand cleaner with lots of towels. That way I can remove grease and debris and examine the part. I can clean, lube and then examine the O-rings on the ends of the fittings for cracks, crush patterns and cross threads. All those things let me know if that line is worth installing on my van. Even if the O-rings were bad, I can still get those O-rings replaced at a local rebuilder for a lot less that rebuilding/buying the whole assembly.

I'll give you two examples on the '93 van I'm rebuilding for my use, one critical, one not critical. The van I bought was a salvage van, and there's been lots of shortcuts in the "Little Things" when it was rebuilt and re-titled by the PO.

I was at the Yard yesterday and pulled a power lock switch. I looked at vans that only had the doors intact, and the windows rolled up to prevent the elements from ruining the switch. I carried in a multimeter and checked the condition of the switch from the donor van. The fist one I found was bad in one direction. It would fail 1 out of 12 times as it was switched. I didn't take that switch. The second one I found was exercised and it worked fine for 100 cycles. That's a good switch.

Last month I replaced the oil cooler line on my van I installed a used one. Granted it did not have O-rings, it had compression fittings. But I still sprayed the inside of that line to see what was coming out of it and sprayed down the outside of it to see if it was free of gouges and rub marks. Since it was free, and it had not been over tightened, I figured it would hold pressure quite well. I looked at the donor to make sure it wasn't a hit to the front of the van that would have stressed the line. I examined the hydraulic hose sections to make sure it had not been hitting the front of the running gear or framing as it snaked up to the radiator fitting. All looked good.

Both parts were installed, and I wasn't disappointed. If you're going to install used parts, you'd best know to look for to evaluate their condition and how removal and re-installation will affect the part. As in most things in life it's a matter of knowledge. If you don't have that knowledge, don't use this method.

Guys-this is in my opinion a forum at it's best.The o/p got two ways to look at it and now have choices.

Thanks Leve.

[rem]

went to lordco auto parts in whsitler and they had some lines in stock! cost me 50 bucks and yah im gonna change it 2morow! they even sold the top n bottom hoses sepratly. This town has alot of safari/astro vans, so think that why they carried them.

[astroturf]

went to lordco auto parts in whsitler and they had some lines in stock! cost me 50 bucks and yah im gonna change it 2morow! they even sold the top n bottom hoses sepratly. This town has alot of safari/astro vans, so think that why they carried them.

Good to here Rem. Good Luck with the repair, and keep us posted. Jim

[sfeaver]

Rockauto sells these brand new. Dorman one for $53 and Edelman for $48. One of these is more than likely the OEM manufacturer anyhow. I've bought a few Dorman things and they have always came with all seals etc.

Scott

[rem]

So installed the line yesterday! took about 1 hour n half including the oil change n all and yah seems to working fine drove it around to make sure there was no leaks and yah it was fine! Though while changing it i noticed the other line had some sludge near the crimping i believe its called and figured that i would change it as well so gona do that pretty soon! basically the old line got really corroded right at the beginning of the fitting. the thing wouldnt even turn around the piping. It was pretty close to breaking off, which it did with minimal force! and yah thats prett much it! have a good one guys!

[Mr_Bowtie]

Good work!