Chevy Astro and GMC Safari Forum banner

HELP, Car won't start after Intake Manifold Gasket Change

11K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  RECox286 
#1 ·
Help, Car is a Chevy 2002 Astro Van with 4.3 Engine 90k miles. Ran fine before Starting.

Had a leaking lower intake manifold so had to take out the manifold, distributor, etc.

All back together but when I went to start it would only crank for a split second and then stopped somewhat violently ie I could tell it didn't want to crank anymore, I did this maybe 5 times. So then I disconnected the coil and plug wires and it would then crank just fine but not start. So at this point I must have rotated the distributor 180 out. Tried to be carefull and marked it but I guess I messed it up. Rotate distributor 180 put it back in, connect plug wires and it will now crank fine but not start. I smell a little gas so pretty sure it has fuel. I did have to remove two fuel lines that run into the central injector, 25 plus wire harnesses, etc.

Things I know.
1. Distributor body is in the same place as I marked it (could be off slightly but no more than 5%. I don't think that it controls the timing anyways.
2. Plug wires were not removed from plugs and they are the original wires so are marked from the factory and the cap was marked from the factory. I also tried a new cap and rotor. Same results.

Suggestions? HELP! Could I have blown something up when I was 180 out?
 
See less See more
#3 ·
Yes plenty of spark at coil and plugs.

Pretty sure I've stabbed the dist wrong. I didn't think I could stab it two many ways just 180 or the other right? Any other combo it won't seat 100% and will be up 1/4. I'm pretty sure this is due to the distributor not seating in the oil pump drive.

The way I had it marked it will crank for a sec and have resistance. The other 180 it "seems" to slightly backfire into manifold.

THANKS!!! :screaming:
 
#4 ·
have you done this type of work before? did you disconnect the wires from the cap during your disassembly? many times i see this, and usually it's the installation of the distributor. the reason i ask is so you can get more effective answers. there should be no reason for it to be 5% out. and the distributer is all timing. is your module plugged in? i'd go back to the distributor. when you put things back together incorrectly, there is always a chance to break or blow something. in your case i don't think it's broke.... yet. 90k is low for that type of leak... any idea of the cause? the answer... i may not be right on, but i'm sure, if you didn't break anything, then more parts are not the answer, like you said, it ran fine before you started. find tdc of #1cyl, and start over, gl
 
#5 ·
I've done this kind of work but haven't pulled a dist in a long time last car I did it on didn't have a dist.

95% sure it is dist related. I'm getting plenty of spark. Everything plugged in, wires to correct spots.

It has to be I've stabbed it some other combo than 180%, I thought that the oil pump drive wouldn't let me do this.
 
#6 ·
I always mark the dist & rotor & I never have a prob, but sounds like you need to find TDC of #1 and start all over with the distributor.

I have never had to find TDC, so here is a good thread I found on TDC if you need some help: viewtopic.php?f=43&t=5264&hilit=top+dead+center
 
#7 ·
I marked it but it wouldn't drop down all the way where I marked it. So I rotated it slightly and it dropped in. I guess somehow the oil pump drive moved and when I went to put it back in the correct spot it wouldn't go. Probably should have put it there and bumped the engine so it would drop down.

Now I guess I'm screwed and will have to find tdc. What is the easiest way to get to the #1 plug :( I still have the doghouse off.

So when I feel compression, the nub on the rotor should line up with the #1 spot on the cap right?
 
#8 ·
Can someone confirm that my late model van is not timed at all by the distributor ie in the typical sense that you rotate the distributor to gain or loose timing. I've done this before using a light and reading the crank on other older cars.

I know I can still be off on the distributor gear and I'm 99%sure this is my issue now. :(
 
#9 ·
Someone on another board confirmed that the 2002 4.3 dist doesn't "time" the engine and with the restance to starting I'm probably 1 tooth advanced or so on the dist gear.

Don't know if I should just play with it to find the right spot or try and find tdc...

Just don't know how the oil pump drive rotated? I don't like the idea of finding the correct spot and then having to bump the engine so that it will drop down into the oil pump drive,
 
#12 ·
Not sure about 02 timing marks. You can try the good old tried and true alternate method of finding TDC: Search for "Fell into Spark Plug Hole, Noooo!" Good discussion about TDC.

Bob
 
#13 ·
All She runs!

Got the instructions from a shop/clymer manual.

Alligned the crank pully with the two timing marks, I knew I had a 50/50 shot. First time I did it I was 180 off so I rotated the crank 360 which rotated the dist 180 and then restabbed it again like the manual said to aligning the rotor with the arrow/6 mark which is also the #1 rotor plug feed and she fired up and is running like a top! Thanks everyone.
 
#15 ·
Don't feel bad, I've been there, done that. (more than once) We're all human.

Good deal, it's: back on the road again...

Bob
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top