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What is this piece called? What is the best way to fix it?

2K views 23 replies 13 participants last post by  blendergasket 
#1 ·
Hi!

I am trying to diagnose a parasitic draw issue which I will probably post for help with later if I can't find the issue, but I just did a bad bad thing. I was screwing in the positive battery cable, and my wrench made contact with a part of the brake system. Sparks showered, and I burned a hole in the metal hose that is showing taped up with electrical tape (which is leaking).



Do you have any idea what this part is called so I can replace it? Alternately, what is a good way to re-seal it? It is maybe a 2-3mm roundish hole.

Thank you for any insight you may have!
 
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#4 ·
I would not drive it. It's a short piece of brake line. Go to junk yard replace or go get some brake line and make a new one. Your laps may lend you a tool if you buy the brake line from them. You need a bender and a flaring tool.
 
#12 ·
Yup, either get the preformed piece from a pick-n-pull or buy a piece of line and the two nuts from your LAPS. Second option then requires a flaring tool and a bender (though the bender can just be the kind that looks sorta like pliers), unless they have a preformed piece that is that overall length. Then you'll just need the bender.
 
#15 ·
If you are close to Milwaukee, I have leftover line and nuts from replacing all my brake lines. I got the copper alloy lines, real easy to bend and flare, and won't rust out like steel ones. That's an easy one to do. And yeah, you need to bleed the system, before you remove the line you might want to suck any remaining fluid out of the reservoir to minimize the leak.

-Andrew
 
#17 ·
dcsleeper said:
Solder won't hold. Too much PSI
It won't stick to the pipe either, because of the fluid you will never get it hot enough.
Won't it? Perhaps on the pressure you're right, but you can braze brake tube. When I was into RC crawlers a few years back I made tube chassis out of brake line, silver solder and maps. Very strong joints.
You would have to remove/drain it first.
 
#18 ·
Thanks for all the tips! I ended up bending a tube and replacing the whole tube section. The attachment nuts were different sizes, and the auto store didn't have any of the bigger sized one, so I just used the originals. As suggested, NAPA had a flaring tool. I ended up buying the tube cutter as no one had that to loan.

Now I just have to bleed my brakes and I'm back on track. Then on to figure out the parasitic draw issue.
 
#19 ·
I'm sure that if done perfectly some silver solder would probably hold, but I for one would not risk trying to solder on my brake lines. Even if it's only 1,500PSI or whatever panic stop pressure would be. NOT for a few $ worth of new line.

Glad to hear that you got it fixed, and your example is a good one for why you always disconnect the negative battery cable first and reconnect it last. That way you don't try to weld your wrench to anything.
 
#22 ·
Replace the wheel cylinder. By far the easiest way to fix that. Any other method gets metal chips into the wheel cylinder and that's no bueno.

Oh, yeah - they're also cheap.
 
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