Well , here is the results! Got my steering box with 32k miles on it, seemed tight and good. Now, the box came with half if the slip shaft , the lower end that is hooked up the the steering box, and 1 universal joint so I figured with 32 k miles the u joint should be like new and better than mine so this is how I took mine out. Disconnected the ball joint from the king pin and pushed back. Then I loosened the 3 side bolts and disconnected the 2 lines. I did wash the area BEFORE doing this so that I would not get dirt inside the lines and contaminate it. I also placed a pan under the lines and let all the old oil drain, no way around it gotta drain it all. Now with the lines disconnected I removed the 3 bolts, then went via the hood, pushed down on the rubber boot to show the small little torq x screw on the slip shaft that had to be loosened and the box fell out!
Now, contrary to what has been said, it doesn't matter where the steering wheel is or where the gear box is, it is pointless! When the box is disconnected from the steering wheel, the steering wheel goes round and round all day long! In fact it will self center and stay by gravity in the straight ahead position. There are several key ways built into the system so there is no way you can connect it wrong except one way so read carefully! I left the steering dead straight ahead just to make it simple but really doesn't matter. Now the rubber half boot that covers the slip shaft has a built in ring to keep it on the gear box lower end, just grab it and pull it off. Now I compared both new and old gearboxes and everything was identical but I didn't notice one important thing, keep reading. Both U joints on the 32k box and my old 200k box looked like new, NO PLAY. So for those that think theirs are worn, mine had 200k miles and tight so I don't think this is a problem point. If you think your tube is worn, trust me the little locking torq x screw keeps the slip shaft solid as one! I decided to just install the replacement box with the included lower half shaft which is a tube which turned out to be a mistake. Simply put although the half shafts tubes were identical, the half shaft tube only goes in the other half on the steering wheel one way as it has a flat spot on one end. The other half, on the steering wheel is a solid rod again with a flat spot on one side, that slips into the lower half shaft tube with the small torx X screw to lock it in place, the upper solid shaft has a groove on the flat side for this small torq x screw to slide and lock into. Well at each end of this slip shaft are a set of universal joints so a upper and a lower. Then the u joint at the lower end is connected to a fitting and this fitting slips onto the gearbox spline only 1 way and locked in with 1 bolt. Well here is where it went bad, you see the u joint can be connected to the end coupler in two positions it doesn't matter if you have the other half of the shaft and its all orientated correctly as its done at the factory but I didn't have the other half. The replacement lower shaft was put on 180 off at the end fitting to mine so when I hooked everything up my steering wheel was upside down. No problems other than upside down or 180 off. I could not get the steering wheel off and did not know if even if I did if I were to be able to remove it and reinstall it 180 back on so I had to take the box off again and swap out the half shaft slip tube and reinstall my old one. Its hard to explain but if you look at it you can easily understand. So basically don't make the mistake I made, disconnect it at the gearbox and reuse your same shaft unless its bad and if it is bad check the orientation of the set screw with the coupler end that connects to the gearbox and make sure its facing the same way because if it isn't there is no way to disconnect the u joint and flip it 180. The U joint is swedged in. You will need the whole slip shaft for it to work correctly if you want to replace your shaft. I did also add grease as this slip shaft has been known to make noise if not greased properly. I have pics but not sure how to load it here. Anyway once it was on, I tightened the 3 bolts, reconnected the 2 lines, added almost a quart of power steering fluid, and connected the intermediate shaft and cotter pinned. Works great! Problem fixed! In short, if you replace or want to replace just half of your steering shaft, compare your old shaft with the one you want to use and make sure the torq x lock screw and lower steering box connector both face the same way,if you have the whole shaft assy it doesn't matter. Also, it doesn't matter where the steering box is at, I turned mine by hand to center it, but even if it isn't centered, just get someone to turn the steering wheel till it lines up with the intermediate shaft.
Hope this helps you guys out. Took about 3 hours to replace taking my time and you will need a ball fork tie rod end separator!