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Replace Steering Box 98 Safari Need Input

9K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  Wubop 
#1 ·
Ok, I got a little slop in my steering, everything has already been replaced, upper and lower ball joints, intermediate bar with joints, shocks, front springs rubber isolator pads, idler arms, everything except the tie rod ends which were good. Now my steering box has play, steering wheel can be moved slightly back and forth with no movement from the gear box external pitman arm. I pulled the rubber shaft boot and looked at the upper steering shaft's universal joint which was good. I could not see the lower end where it goes into the steering box. My question is this, whats at the end of the shaft where it connects to the steering box? I am assuming its another universal joint or just connected there with a clamp. Is there one of those so called "Rag " joints on the 98's models? I know they were common on the older models. Anyway, anyone that has replaced a gearbox especially same as mine with the sliding shaft that has any info please shoot me a line.

Thanks Pete
 
#2 ·
I replaced Green's with an FE2 (quick ratio) steering box last year. IIRC, there is both a u-joint and a clamp on the steering gear end.
 
#4 ·
Aaron, I heard alot of people saying to replace it with a close ration but also heard some are reverse? Did you run into that problem? Where did you get your gearbox and what did it cost you? I know Autozone has both styles for the same price $230 I believe. I figured there is another joint and clamp at the bottom where it connects to the gearbox. What about the rubber shaft cover? What holds it on the gearbox? A clamp or wire C snap or what? How did the van drive with the newer close ratio box? Did the owner like it better than the older box ?

gillgates, what would turning it one way and then the other do other than tell me what I know that its a regular gear box?
 
#5 ·
Hi itzmepete

You should have an adjusting screw in the steering box. You can adjust to take up some of the play inside the box itself. Have you tried that?

It has a lock nut around the outside of the screw itself you loosen off, then slowly turn the adjusting screw in until you feel just a bit of resistance then lock in place. Check the steering (turn the wheel from stop to stop) to make sure nothing is binding. This will remove the play in the box if that's where you say it is.

Hope this helps.:)
 
#6 ·
yes I did that last year with some help. The problem is that most of the wear happens when the steering wheel is centered for stright driving so the worm gear wears in this spot. If you tighten the adjustment screw , it will be too tight when you turn the steering wheel as the rest of the gear area is not as worn. This can cause failure and damage the box as in cracking it. My van has 200k miles, I gotta change the box, its the only solution now.
 
#7 ·
Hi itzmepete

Yes, if the box is worn that much, then your right about replacing it. It shouldn't be that difficult to do if you have the tools to do it.

The upper steering shaft is held in place at the box by a 10 or 13 MM bolt that slides out when loosened. You then pry the steering shaft coupler up off the splined shaft.

Let us know how things work out, and if you have anymore questions, just fire away. Myself or others will be more than glad to help.:)
 
#8 ·
itzmepete said:
Aaron, I heard alot of people saying to replace it with a close ration but also heard some are reverse? Did you run into that problem? Where did you get your gearbox and what did it cost you? I know Autozone has both styles for the same price $230 I believe. I figured there is another joint and clamp at the bottom where it connects to the gearbox. What about the rubber shaft cover? What holds it on the gearbox? A clamp or wire C snap or what? How did the van drive with the newer close ratio box? Did the owner like it better than the older box ?
The FE2 boxes are direct bolt-ins on RWD vans, I checked with the dealer who verified that none of the other steering parts are different. I bought mine from http://www.RockAuto.com A-1 CARDONE $155. You are right about the joint and clamp, the rubber cover I believe has a spring clip/c snap built in it. It's raining now or I'd go check. The van is more fun when I'm in a hurry and weaving through traffic, but it's not so quick that it's dangerous in slippery conditions. Doesn't take long to get used to. 16/19:1 vs 12:1 isn't a huge difference. I'm really glad I did it, wish I could find FE2s for the AWD vans.
 
#9 ·
Running the new box lock to lock and counting the turns, then going back half way will make sure the new box is centered when you install it, making it closer to straight when you're all done.

*edit*
Pete,
If you tightened the box previously, and now it's jumpy, it may have been overtightened. I once did this to a Plymouth. Try backing it off a hair or two & see if that helps.
 
#10 ·
I got one off ebay from a van that had 32k miles for $80. Its not a cargo van, so will see what it is when I get it, either way so long as it doesnt have play I will be fine. WIll check about the install here. ANother reader mentioned to turn on back and forth (the replacement box) to center it before installing it. I guess if it has a splined coupler it makes sense as the steering wheel will be off but I would guess it should have a key way so it only goes in one way? Do you remember this?

I should get it next week and then will look closely. Thanks for the help guys!

Oh yeah, I didn't overtighten my adjustment screw when I did it last year. Its jumpy as in it wanders around at high speeds, its just a worn box at 200K miles!
 
#11 ·
Well , here is the results! Got my steering box with 32k miles on it, seemed tight and good. Now, the box came with half if the slip shaft , the lower end that is hooked up the the steering box, and 1 universal joint so I figured with 32 k miles the u joint should be like new and better than mine so this is how I took mine out. Disconnected the ball joint from the king pin and pushed back. Then I loosened the 3 side bolts and disconnected the 2 lines. I did wash the area BEFORE doing this so that I would not get dirt inside the lines and contaminate it. I also placed a pan under the lines and let all the old oil drain, no way around it gotta drain it all. Now with the lines disconnected I removed the 3 bolts, then went via the hood, pushed down on the rubber boot to show the small little torq x screw on the slip shaft that had to be loosened and the box fell out!

Now, contrary to what has been said, it doesn't matter where the steering wheel is or where the gear box is, it is pointless! When the box is disconnected from the steering wheel, the steering wheel goes round and round all day long! In fact it will self center and stay by gravity in the straight ahead position. There are several key ways built into the system so there is no way you can connect it wrong except one way so read carefully! I left the steering dead straight ahead just to make it simple but really doesn't matter. Now the rubber half boot that covers the slip shaft has a built in ring to keep it on the gear box lower end, just grab it and pull it off. Now I compared both new and old gearboxes and everything was identical but I didn't notice one important thing, keep reading. Both U joints on the 32k box and my old 200k box looked like new, NO PLAY. So for those that think theirs are worn, mine had 200k miles and tight so I don't think this is a problem point. If you think your tube is worn, trust me the little locking torq x screw keeps the slip shaft solid as one! I decided to just install the replacement box with the included lower half shaft which is a tube which turned out to be a mistake. Simply put although the half shafts tubes were identical, the half shaft tube only goes in the other half on the steering wheel one way as it has a flat spot on one end. The other half, on the steering wheel is a solid rod again with a flat spot on one side, that slips into the lower half shaft tube with the small torx X screw to lock it in place, the upper solid shaft has a groove on the flat side for this small torq x screw to slide and lock into. Well at each end of this slip shaft are a set of universal joints so a upper and a lower. Then the u joint at the lower end is connected to a fitting and this fitting slips onto the gearbox spline only 1 way and locked in with 1 bolt. Well here is where it went bad, you see the u joint can be connected to the end coupler in two positions it doesn't matter if you have the other half of the shaft and its all orientated correctly as its done at the factory but I didn't have the other half. The replacement lower shaft was put on 180 off at the end fitting to mine so when I hooked everything up my steering wheel was upside down. No problems other than upside down or 180 off. I could not get the steering wheel off and did not know if even if I did if I were to be able to remove it and reinstall it 180 back on so I had to take the box off again and swap out the half shaft slip tube and reinstall my old one. Its hard to explain but if you look at it you can easily understand. So basically don't make the mistake I made, disconnect it at the gearbox and reuse your same shaft unless its bad and if it is bad check the orientation of the set screw with the coupler end that connects to the gearbox and make sure its facing the same way because if it isn't there is no way to disconnect the u joint and flip it 180. The U joint is swedged in. You will need the whole slip shaft for it to work correctly if you want to replace your shaft. I did also add grease as this slip shaft has been known to make noise if not greased properly. I have pics but not sure how to load it here. Anyway once it was on, I tightened the 3 bolts, reconnected the 2 lines, added almost a quart of power steering fluid, and connected the intermediate shaft and cotter pinned. Works great! Problem fixed! In short, if you replace or want to replace just half of your steering shaft, compare your old shaft with the one you want to use and make sure the torq x lock screw and lower steering box connector both face the same way,if you have the whole shaft assy it doesn't matter. Also, it doesn't matter where the steering box is at, I turned mine by hand to center it, but even if it isn't centered, just get someone to turn the steering wheel till it lines up with the intermediate shaft.
Hope this helps you guys out. Took about 3 hours to replace taking my time and you will need a ball fork tie rod end separator!
 
#13 ·
I just bought a 2003 Astro RWD with only 20,000 miles on it. The steering wheel felt loose and could be turned a few inches in either direction without any change in direction of the wheels. Very annoying on the freeway having to turn slightly back and forth to keep the van straight. I took it to get diagnosed at my local mechanic and he found no problems. Many people on here said that idler arms go out frequently and cause that loose feeling, so I replaced those with new MOOG idler arms...that did not help at all. :(

So I did more troubleshooting...turned the steering wheel back and forth at the loose part and observed underneath to see what was loose. No movement at all could be seen even though my friend was turning the wheel a few inches back and forth. So I figured it must be in the steering box. I adjusted the screw as described in this thread and now it is much tighter on-center! Thanks to all of the help you guys have given and great instructions.

I have one question...could I be causing damage by tightening that screw (and then backing it out 1/2 turn like indicated)? The steering does not feel too tight at all, just feels perfect now. Thanks again.
 
#14 ·
selimited said:
I have one question...could I be causing damage by tightening that screw (and then backing it out 1/2 turn like indicated)? The steering does not feel too tight at all, just feels perfect now. Thanks again.
No, you would "eventually" cause damage if you didn't back it off and then drove the van that way. By backing it out a 1/2, you removing the possibly of "more" wear of the components inside the gearbox.
 
#16 ·

Here I come to save the day!!!

My quick research does not show the FE2 steering gear offered after 1999. Now the beauty of these vans, it shouldn't matter. I looked at 1999 RWD steering gears on http://www.RockAuto.com and found that depending on part number it looks like any gear would fit any year van. The ACDelco FE2 had a range of 1996-2005, while the rebuilt A1 Cardone FE2 only listed 1996-1999. Based on what I see, a 1999 FE2 will be a direct fit into a 2002 van.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... ttype=7416
 
#17 ·
Thanks a lot for the quick reply, my van has all the problems described in this thread. So what I need is either the acdelco part #360517584 or the A1 cardone part #277558, correct me if I'm wrong?
Also which one would you recommend? I'm open to both. The van has already had plenty of front end work done(moog idlers, lower ball joints, alignment, etc.) but it is still terrible on the highway, constantly wants to jump a lane.

Thanks again
 
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