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HELP!! HOW TO BRING DOWN THE WHOLE SELONOID THING

2K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  exoticautodetai 
#1 ·
I took down the pan already took out the filter. I been taking out bolts and can't seem to bring down the whole selenoid pack thing down.
 
#4 ·
So I bring down the pan today. Then I take off the filter, as soon as I pull down the filter I notice an O ring fell on the floor but didn't quite see where it came from.

I was trying to to take off the valve body and when I tried to unplug one of the wires the plastic thing broke. I read somewhere they ware off. Well I honestly tried as careful as possible to unplug it without braking off the plastic thing and no luck. Every single one of them a plastic broke. :( All thought it still plugs in without feeling loose.

By any chance is it possible changing the wire plug set?

Since I couldn't bring down the valve body I started putting back the screws on.

I couldn't change my dipstick grommet either because I have to unscrew this bracket by the engine and the space is kinda tight so I am going to get the right tool tomorrow.

So finally I decided to take a real good look at the pan and it was bad. Since it had a leak the ex owner kept on pouring more fluid and thats why It looks a little red. But it still has a lot of burned fluid left mix with the new fluid that has been poured in. It looks kinda brownish. When I empty the pan to see the bottom of it. It was black at the bottom. I noticed a black square stick to the pan I am assuming is a magnetic piece??

Well that square thing was filthy of greyish and black really gooey stuff. I have no idea why it had a lot of gooey stuff at the bottom of the pan.
 
#5 ·
exoticautodetai said:
So I bring down the pan today. Then I take off the filter, as soon as I pull down the filter I notice an O ring fell on the floor but didn't quite see where it came from.

I was trying to to take off the valve body and when I tried to unplug one of the wires the plastic thing broke. I read somewhere they ware off. Well I honestly tried as careful as possible to unplug it without braking off the plastic thing and no luck. Every single one of them a plastic broke. :( All thought it still plugs in without feeling loose.

By any chance is it possible changing the wire plug set?

Since I couldn't bring down the valve body I started putting back the screws on.

I couldn't change my dipstick grommet either because I have to unscrew this bracket by the engine and the space is kinda tight so I am going to get the right tool tomorrow.

So finally I decided to take a real good look at the pan and it was bad. Since it had a leak the ex owner kept on pouring more fluid and thats why It looks a little red. But it still has a lot of burned fluid left mix with the new fluid that has been poured in. It looks kinda brownish. When I empty the pan to see the bottom of it. It was black at the bottom. I noticed a black square stick to the pan I am assuming is a magnetic piece??

Well that square thing was filthy of greyish and black really gooey stuff. I have no idea why it had a lot of gooey stuff at the bottom of the pan.
The square thing is a magnet just clean it off it doing its job collecting particles of metal.There always some on it.Fluid just probably never been changed.As for the wiring harness I am sure you can get one I never looked.never ran into that problem yet.
 
#7 ·
I would just clean it out real good new filter and fluid see how it acts.Mine was acting like it was in 2 gears at once and pulling down 5 MPH every once in a while when I got it while I was driving it.Thats why mom gave it to me.Shop was going to charge millions to fix miss in engine and tranny problem.turned out it never had 2 plugs changed a air filter and they were not changing tranny fluid like she paid for.anyway I will stop rambling now.that been 6 years ago and it acting fine.my pan was not quite as bad as yours but it was pretty filthy.just see how it does first that pan not that hard to get off if it dont straighten out.
 
#9 ·
That wiring harness can be bought as part of the TCC shift solenoid ACDELCO Part # D3988A. I had to replace Grumpy's last year before my big Route 66 road trip.
 
#10 ·
ihatemybike said:
That wiring harness can be bought as part of the TCC shift solenoid ACDELCO Part # D3988A. I had to replace Grumpy's last year before my big Route 66 road trip.
I will keep this in mind maybe later on i will do this change if needs too. I'm going to confirm later today how's my tranny from last night seems to be getting way better.
 
#13 ·
It's likely with that much gunk in your pan that some of it has build up in the tranny cooler in your radiator. This can affect line pressure (and shifting) and be a big strain on the pump. You can undue the lines to the radiator and blow it out with air and some type of solvent or they make a can of flush you can screw ino the radiator where the line screws on and clean it out, the latter works very well. You would be hard pressed to find the cleaner in a store but can be found online. I don't remember what it's called but if you google it or search the sight you should find it. Also my $.02 on additive for the 4l60e is avoid thick one's like lucas for our vavle boddies I beleive the thinner one's like trans-x or sea foam work better good luck
 
#15 ·
Not what most people would call a radiator flush...no. The trans cooler in your radiator and your radiator fluid that cools the engine, while both are in in your radiator, they do not interconnect. If you get under your van and follow the lines from your trans you will clearly see where they enter/exit your radiator
 
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