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4L60E NO REVERSE AND MORE

8K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  ASTROMATT0630 
#1 ·
4L60E--> NO REVERSE--> Sometimes 2,3,4 gear no 1st Gear Still runs I drive it everyday. I have read it could be the Valve Body, I just purchased a AC DELCO BRAND VALVE BODY IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD LOOK OUT FOR WHEN REPLACING THE VALVE BODY?

I did read there are some common issues like the REVERSE DRUM ETC except its not just reverse im thinking clutch pack is failed.

Any Input on this would help! Tell me what TRANS FLUID TO USE ETC!
 
#5 ·
It could be the valve body.. might have even been just a sticking valve.
Good luck

PS: For trans-fluid I use the standard stuff (Dexron II/III) from Walmart.
It's all made by the same company with different brand names on the label.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-A ... gLWa_D_BwE
 
#6 ·
Toskavat said:
Check out this link, it is a repair guide site but may have help for your situation. http://www.wwdsltd.com/4L60/4L60ERepairs.html
Thank you for the awesome info! Ill be thinking of tearing into this 4L60E issue soon as im still driving with NO REVERSE!!! CRAZY! But I will keep everyone up to date on what I decide to do! THANKS! :screaming: :chevy:
 
#9 ·
When you put it in reverse or manual 1st does it freewheel like its in neutral or does it bind up like its trying to go into low and reverse at the same time?

Are you sure its first that is missing or could it be 2nd? Does it go into OD?

There's a few things that could be wrong.

The first thing you want to do is pull the dipstick and check the condition of the fluid. If its dark and smells burned its likely the low/reverse or reverse input clutches are cooked.

If its the sun shell you may see metal particles in the fluid, but usually with a broken sun shell you would lose 2nd and 4th along with reverse.

It could also be a stuck valve in the valve body or a broken 1/2 accumulator piston.

Here's a list of common problems that may also help.

https://twincharlotte.com/30-common-4l6 ... rlotte-nc/
 
#10 ·
Bikley said:
When you put it in reverse or manual 1st does it freewheel like its in neutral or does it bind up like its trying to go into low and reverse at the same time?

Are you sure its first that is missing or could it be 2nd? Does it go into OD?

There's a few things that could be wrong.

The first thing you want to do is pull the dipstick and check the condition of the fluid. If its dark and smells burned its likely the low/reverse or reverse input clutches are cooked.

If its the sun shell you may see metal particles in the fluid, but usually with a broken sun shell you would lose 2nd and 4th along with reverse.

It could also be a stuck valve in the valve body or a broken 1/2 accumulator piston.

Here's a list of common problems that may also help.

https://twincharlotte.com/30-common-4l6 ... rlotte-nc/
Awesome Info! So heres the story about 6 months ago I pull into a parking spot put the thing in PARK and then come back from inside the store put in reverse and bam NO REVERSE so im like ok then when I go to accel it revs up to 2k and then shifts not sure at this point what gear im in at that point. So in order for me to drive I rev up to 2k and it shifts every time on point lol. I know this will soon come to an end as its been months that I have been driving this thing blessed but I know I have to make a decision eventually on what to do. I was thinking its time for a NEW FRESH REBUILD for this 219K VAN I love it cause I own and I wanna just keep driving it. In a nutshell Id like to save what I have cause I did purchase the Upgraded AC DELCO brand Valave Body but now im worried if I drop it and put the new VALVE body I could damage somethingelse.

Thanks for all the input the link you sent is awesome!
 
#12 ·
Just to let you know why I think it needs to be rebuilt.

I recently went through the 4l60e looking glass with my daughter's Blazer and my wife's Safari.

Starting with the Blazer the 3/4 clutches were cooked and she bought a $900 rebuild that literally grenaded about 10 miles in. We pulled it and got a replacement and it made it about a block before it burned the 3/4 clutches.

The 3rd time was the charm because the one in there has worked so far. The guy probably took a little extra time just to be rid of us.

Then the Safari started acting up so rather than go through that again I bought a kit and rebuilt the first trans that came out of the Blazer for the Safari.

94 to 94 should work, right? As it turned out it wasn't quite the same. The Blazer had a 95 trans with PWM and my 94 didn't so I left the solenoid out.

Big mistake. It did exactly what you described, it wound way up in first and then shifted into 3rd and that was it. It sat in the driveway for weeks while I racked my brain and took in as much as I could from a bunch of forums and tracing hydraulic circuits that cause those symptoms.

From the sounds of it the splines in the sun shell are probably stripped causing you to lose 2/4 and reverse. If the collar had broken you would definitely know it by now.
 
#13 ·
My story is a little opposite...

I was in my 92 accelerating pretty strong in 1st.. when I shifted into 2nd and heard a bang.
Suddenly I have no forward gears in any range.

I coasted a ways from the highway into a neighborhood and around the block.
I discovered I still had reverse only.. so I was able to back up to a good location to wait for help.

That 700R4 trans is still waiting it's turn to be rebuilt.. haven't opened it yet.
I have no idea what broke yet.

In the meantime I run a temporary TH350 behind my 350.
Firm, tight, and fresh (with shift-kit behind a holeshot coverter.).. chirps 2nd every time like crazy.
Ironically, they both were originally paired together and came from same low-mileage Impala in 1970.

50 years later.. both are still going strong! :D
 
#14 ·
Yeah!! WOW! Im thinking a rebuild is going to be the answer. Im an Auto & Heavy Truck Mechanic and work on my own stuff alot. Have been for years but the Transmission internals will be new for me other then the occasion of dropping a Valve Body a complete Transmission or drive axles etc.

Now the all mighty question here is who is the best company to get the best rebuild parts for the 4L60E? So many to choose from and now with all this export import issues people have who knows what type of parts I can get. Besides the vidoes is there a 4L60E direct manual I can purchase online somewhere other then an all DATA or something like that?

For now im rolling back and forth to work like this for the past year and am looking to finally stop driving and drive my other car a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer :chevy: yes we are a CHEVY FAMILY!! But that would be the time to take out the trans and break it down, kinda nervous and kinda excited to do only because its my own stuff.

Thanks guys for your input on this sour topic!!! :whistle: :banana: :bouncy: :rockon:

Bikley said:
Just to let you know why I think it needs to be rebuilt.

I recently went through the 4l60e looking glass with my daughter's Blazer and my wife's Safari.

Starting with the Blazer the 3/4 clutches were cooked and she bought a $900 rebuild that literally grenaded about 10 miles in. We pulled it and got a replacement and it made it about a block before it burned the 3/4 clutches.

The 3rd time was the charm because the one in there has worked so far. The guy probably took a little extra time just to be rid of us.

Then the Safari started acting up so rather than go through that again I bought a kit and rebuilt the first trans that came out of the Blazer for the Safari.

94 to 94 should work, right? As it turned out it wasn't quite the same. The Blazer had a 95 trans with PWM and my 94 didn't so I left the solenoid out.

Big mistake. It did exactly what you described, it wound way up in first and then shifted into 3rd and that was it. It sat in the driveway for weeks while I racked my brain and took in as much as I could from a bunch of forums and tracing hydraulic circuits that cause those symptoms.

From the sounds of it the splines in the sun shell are probably stripped causing you to lose 2/4 and reverse. If the collar had broken you would definitely know it by now.
 
#15 ·
WHOA CRAZY! I wish I could just slap a TH350 behind my V6 or could I? Is it worth it for now and take out my 4L60E and put a for now TRANSMISSION? My VAN is a 2000 RWD LS Model Astro Van. Never owned a FIRST GEN now its hard to find those FIRST GENS in good condition where I am.

700R4 I hear people with nightmares about that Transmission! I know because my brother had a FULLSIZE Chevy with 700R4 and he spent alot of money building that trans and all it ever had was issues when it was finally right and had the transmission built a second time his Engine gave out and he crashed the truck all that was good was the TRANSMISSION but im glad im stuck with this 4L60E seems like there are more parts available then I thought. :driving: :ty:

Mmusicman said:
My story is a little opposite...

I was in my 92 accelerating pretty strong in 1st.. when I shifted into 2nd and heard a bang.
Suddenly I have no forward gears in any range.

I coasted a ways from the highway into a neighborhood and around the block.
I discovered I still had reverse only.. so I was able to back up to a good location to wait for help.

That 700R4 trans is still waiting it's turn to be rebuilt.. haven't opened it yet.
I have no idea what broke yet.

In the meantime I run a temporary TH350 behind my 350.
Firm, tight, and fresh (with shift-kit behind a holeshot coverter.).. chirps 2nd every time like crazy.
Ironically, they both were originally paired together and came from same low-mileage Impala in 1970.

50 years later.. both are still going strong! :D
 
#16 ·
ASTROMATT0630 said:
WHOA CRAZY! I wish I could just slap a TH350 behind my V6 or could I?
Actually you can! You just need the right length trans and matching converter.

There are two length TH350's... 6" (short) for cars.. 9" (long) for trucks and vans. The long TH350 is the same length as the 700R4, and has the same output shaft, so your driveshaft will fit perfectly. The trans bolt pattern on the 4.3 block is common.. same as V8's have been for decades.

There might be minor issues with the rear mount, speedo, etc... but all minor stuff.
I currently drive with no speedo in mine.. (not that it ever mattered) .. :D

Many years ago (before I joined this forum).. I blew my 700R4 (in my 92 behind my 4.3)... and wound up installing a temporary TH375 (from an 80's full-size van)... ever heard of one?

A lot of GM stuff is interchangeable.. sometimes with only minor variations.
You'll lose lockup and overdrive (which I do miss.. but it's temporary for a while)

Here's my short-shaft TH350 (needed to get a 3" longer drive-shaft to accommodate)

 
#21 ·
These guys have been very good to me, on my vans and on my Jeep Liberty.

https://www.oregonperformancetransmissi ... -kits.html

And,

I have uploaded

ATSG 4L60E.pdf
ATSG 4L60E update.pdf
ATRA-4L60 Rebuild (GM 700R4).pdf
4L60E partslist.pdf
34145767-4L60E.pdf (has color flowcharts and stuff)

In a zip file to ZippyShare. All are welcome to download...

Code:
https://www3.zippyshare.com/v/dEDECa5N/file.html
This guy has step-by-step how to remove, disassemble and reassemble, with pics you can make larger:
http://www.wwdsltd.com/4L60/4L60ERemoval.html
 
#22 ·
Heres what im thinking a nice rebuilt 4L60E with a warranty? Honestly this is a daily driven VAN that I would like to keep up with some of the factory stuff like the electronic controlled Trans OVER DRIVE ETC.

Now what im thinking new trans and then REBUILD THE 4L60E i currently have myself with time and see what the outcome is.
Thanks guys for all your input ill keep this alive by posting when I break open the 4L60E trans! :banana:

Mmusicman said:
ASTROMATT0630 said:
WHOA CRAZY! I wish I could just slap a TH350 behind my V6 or could I?
Actually you can! You just need the right length trans and matching converter.

There are two length TH350's... 6" (short) for cars.. 9" (long) for trucks and vans. The long TH350 is the same length as the 700R4, and has the same output shaft, so your driveshaft will fit perfectly. The trans bolt pattern on the 4.3 block is common.. same as V8's have been for decades.

There might be minor issues with the rear mount, speedo, etc... but all minor stuff.
I currently drive with no speedo in mine.. (not that it ever mattered) .. :D

Many years ago (before I joined this forum).. I blew my 700R4 (in my 92 behind my 4.3)... and wound up installing a temporary TH375 (from an 80's full-size van)... ever heard of one?

A lot of GM stuff is interchangeable.. sometimes with only minor variations.
You'll lose lockup and overdrive (which I do miss.. but it's temporary for a while)

Here's my short-shaft TH350 (needed to get a 3" longer drive-shaft to accommodate)

 
#23 ·
Be sure to check the price from the dealer. You get a nationwide warranty, and if there are lots of running updates, they're all installed. And the price is usually competitive.
 
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