Van dies; NO power anywhere, but batt will show full Volts

[SoFar,EH]

I reside rurally so had to travel @ distance to have van be chek'd out to identify any possible needed repairs after aquiring it. Never made it home. If headlites R turned on it's a matter of time that the fuse to ERCB(?) blows. It's quicker to blow if hi-beams R active. This gets even wierder: Immediate if horn is employed!! Found this out quite accidentally. This van was running great until I took it to be looked at. Now I can't dare drive it other than during daylite. Any help is appreciated.

[AstroWill]

Take a picture of the location of the fuse if you can. Also what is the amperage of the fuse?

[SoFar,EH]

I wish I knew HOW to transfer a pic from the ph. to here. Might explain something to somebody. But I went outside & under the dash (DS), it's the ECMB fuse that keeps blowing. 15 amp. I did try to post a "further" to what happens earlier, but it seems to have disappeared & I wasn't able to properly do so. Either having headlites on or hitting horn will kill the power to everywhere. I don't kno acronymns (ECMB). Symptoms experienced: Low beams= will run for awhile then blow fuse. Hi beams= blows fuse sooner. Hit horn= instant kill!! Have tried & paid much to have others try to fix; mostly thinking it's gotta be a short-- especially from the horn. NO 1 has been able to get this sorted out yet.
What I eventually did out of desperation when stranded again a few months ago was hitch hike to a city, find a big rig wrecker's & salvage a 15 amp breaker. it also was a stablok type & fit directly into place. Now when it acts up, I'm dead on the side of the road but give it time & it re-sets. Then I can resume travel for a short time again. Such a "cripple around" thing is such a PITA as I'm sure can be appreciated. Has even made me miss medical appointments. Sooooo NOT good!

[AstroWill]

The reason I was asking is because the Headlamps and Horn are on the 20amp fuse above the ECMB 15amp fuse.

[SoFar,EH]

Yes, I'm to understand the same. All the more questionable as to what happened to my van when that place had it to "just chek it over & report what is noted to address & what might be best to do 1st... 2nd... next..."

[SoFar,EH]

This fuse block has 20amp fuse for: "Hrn/TL LPS" as it is marked. Again "acronymns" & me.... not sure what LPS equals. But think Hrn= horn, & TL= tail lites?maybe? IDK.

[SoFar,EH]

Trying to research this out months ago elsewhere seemed to suggest using heavier ga. wires & relays for headlites because the factory wires plus the age of the van is likely insufficient for the amount of power required to run the headlites. Ok..... but I never could find an ultra simple, clear & concise explanation w/a good simple straight forward wiring diagram to follow. Electrical is really NOT my best thing. Whenever I tried to approach any repair shops, the responses usually would be like; "we don't care to work on that POS... ", or "just stop being such a cheap $$#$%^$###@# & buy a NEW vehicle. A REAL vehicle!!" Walk away & keep hopin .... someday.... has been my way thus far.

[Jeff]

See if there is a mobile mech. In your area with GM experience and look in Craigslist. Some mechanics are good and some not so much with electrical. Call around. Also why not bring it back to mechanic who looked it over, ask what he did etc.

[AstroWill]

LPS = Lamps
Seems odd to me.
Maybe the circuits to each of those fuses are swapped, pull the 20amp fuse and see what doesn't get power. Maybe a PO modified/switched those around? Could be as easy as that, which would explain why it would be blowing on a 15amp fuse. Or trace that to the back of the fuse box and see what color wires are hooked up to each of those fuses.

Check out section 6 starting on page 65 in your owners manual, if you don't have one check out: https://www.astrosafari.com/viewforum.php?f=110
How to add pictures: https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=110689
How to edit your posts: https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=124473

[SoFar,EH]

Thx. Appreciate all the suggests. I'll have to see if I can get some study help or tutoring w/someone & their puter for doin the pics & a few other lessons.

[AstroWill]

The more I think about it, you are going to have to get a meter and learn how to use it. Even a cheap one works for 99% of what the average person will ever need it for.
They also have 30amp testers that plug in place of the fuse like this one https://amzn.to/38EEWK1 it even comes with adapters for mini and micro.
I don't know if there is a digital version of the manual floating around for the 95 or not, maybe someone can link it.

Do the lights come on bright as usual or dim? The more I think about it, maybe your fuel pump is drawing excessive amperage and maybe combined with a voltage drop it is blowing the fuse. But you are going to have to test and see if you are getting a voltage drop and what kind of amperage is being drawn from that circuit.

[SoFar,EH]

Sadly, because none of the parts removed were returned to me as was requested, & the headlites (sealed beams) were replaced because their attempt was LED's will run brighter & cooler by using less power. Now only 1 elumimates & does not seem to change hi to low or vice versa.

[AstroWill]

LOL Wut

So you have a wiring issue and the shop's recommendation is to switch out your headlights to LEDs? Dude, stay away from that shop. Kinda surprised by LED headlights up in the cold north, could imagine issues with them freezing over/ice buildup.

Here is the wiring diagram:


My WAG is this: You have a problem where those two circuits meet up. Start at the fusible link and that 4 pin connector(C198) as both of those circuits that you are having issues with come through the same fusible link and connector. It's located behind the battery.

https://amzn.to/2HgvrBv

Check for corrosion, loose/melted connections, damaged insulation, broken wires, etc. I would do a simple voltage drop test on those circuits as well. Willing to bet that it starts dropping quickly once you start turning on the lights.