Power door locks

Power door locks

Postby TheStapler [OP] » December 1st 2009, 5:10am

OK... this is a weird one.

I have my 96 Safari, with power door locks... I press the lock/unlock buttons, hear the relays click, and the actuators "TRY" to push the locks locked/unlocked, but dont move more than 1/8 inch MAX.

I have 12v at the relays, and 12 at teh acuators, but still, nothing.

I've tried a 12v power lead from the charger right at the actutor, and it works fine, but no other way :(


I've replaced the relays from a 97 donor van, and still nothing.

I am stumped here.

Any help/ideas would be appreciated.

Steve
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Re: Power door locks

Postby webcat » December 1st 2009, 6:30am

TheStapler wrote:
I have my 96 Safari, with power door locks... I press the lock/unlock buttons, hear the relays click, and the actuators "TRY" to push the locks locked/unlocked, but dont move more than 1/8 inch MAX.

I've tried a 12v power lead from the charger right at the actutor, and it works fine, but no other way :(


Mine had the same symtoms on my drivers side door , is your problem one door or all ? i applied 12 volts right at the actutor and they still did'nt move more than 1/8 inch MAX. , i replaced the actuator and problem solved .
How many times did you try to apply 12volts right to the actuator? is it possible that the one time that you applied voltage it just happened to work ?
Some times when you get wierd test results like that i've found one thing to look at is your test equipment for bad connections and so forth.
I cant see your meter giving you a false 12 volts but something to think about.
i can remember at least one time that my meter read 12volts in wires that wer'nt hooked to anything and countless times that it read the wrong voltage , i ussually jiggle the connections at the meter and all is ok
Last edited by webcat on December 1st 2009, 6:58am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Power door locks

Postby TheStapler [OP] » December 1st 2009, 6:57am

it's all 3 actuators. they all move the same...

if you press and press and press and press and press (etc etc) eventually, there isn't any movement at all... almost like there is a battery that is feeding it, that is almost dead. the van's battery, is damn near new, and it cranks the van quite perfectly... so not a battery.

as for the possiblity of it being a fluke that it worked? Hmm... i will try tomorrow, and see. but it did move the passenger's actuator when i applied 12v directly to it, maybe it was a fluke? nothing works with the switch though... at least not yet :)
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Re: Power door locks

Postby webcat » December 1st 2009, 7:05am

TheStapler wrote:it's all 3 actuators. they all move the same...

if you press and press and press and press and press (etc etc) eventually, there isn't any movement at all... almost like there is a battery that is feeding it, that is almost dead. the van's battery, is damn near new, and it cranks the van quite perfectly... so not a battery.

as for the possiblity of it being a fluke that it worked? Hmm... i will try tomorrow, and see. but it did move the passenger's actuator when i applied 12v directly to it, maybe it was a fluke? nothing works with the switch though... at least not yet :)



I wonder if you could find a schematic?
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Re: Power door locks

Postby webcat » December 1st 2009, 7:16am

If you hav'nt already , You could probally do a quick visual inspection of your door lock wires , were they run from the door to the body of the van.
mayby inspect your doors or other possible areas that could have had moisture enter and give you bad connections or corrosion.
inspect the door lock wires behind the kick panel.
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Re: Power door locks

Postby Hangard » December 1st 2009, 8:12am

Ok, My 99 AWD does not have power locks. Can you imagine a 99 ordered without power locks?

But my 1992 Lumina APV did have 'em and when it was above 70 outside they worked fine, colder and similar stuff, just barley moved.
My fix was to spray the latch from 'inside,' after taking the door panel off, with Wal-mart carb cleaner and actuate a few times. DO NOT spray any electrical parts - and that may include the latch if it has a electrical switch inside - if it does, do not spray with the carb cleaner, it will destroy the electric components., Anyway after I sprayed and got it working free, then I spray with 'Heavy Duty Silicone Spray' another clear liquid. That seemed to help until the latch got dirty from the dirt roads, etc that I go on. First time I sprayed with WD-40 after it was working, but it is too oily and attracted dust quickly.

If you have any doubt about electric in the latch, just try spraying with the silicone spray, but I used lots of it to wash the dirt away, but again careful with the carb cleaner, it will destroy the paint on the bottom of the door if it is sprayed heavy to wash the dirt away with it, use the silicone spray to wash the dirt off and lube at the same time.

But it may be something completely different than this. Something to try if all else fails, it worked on my APV.
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Re: Power door locks

Postby webcat » December 1st 2009, 8:31am

Hangard
Thats a good idea spraying them actuators , maybe that would make are actuators last longer too , kinda preventative maintenance
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Re: Power door locks

Postby Hangard » December 1st 2009, 8:47am

NO, not the actuators, spray the door latch. The actuator has windings that make the electromagnet and some sprays can damage the windings. I only spray the latch so the actuator can move it. The latch is more 'outside' and gets road grime etc on it and gets sticky. So a good spray of silicone will wash off the dirt and grime and lube the latch, and even lube it in a way that will not attract more dirt to stiffen it up again.

The actuator is more 'inside' the door and is protected from the elements. Besides it has greater clearance, being the way it is made. The actuator, a.k.a. solenoid, really needs no lubrication, in fact lubrication can do more harm than good.
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Re: Power door locks

Postby TheStapler [OP] » December 1st 2009, 1:45pm

** for some reason my browser times out when posting -- this was a refresh **
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Re: Power door locks

Postby webcat » December 1st 2009, 4:00pm

TheStapler wrote:** for some reason my browser times out when posting -- this was a refresh **

Imternet explorer?
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Re: Power door locks

Postby astrofur » December 28th 2009, 12:19am

when i got my van, the front door locks were doing exactly the above. but the slider's actuator was working fine. now i try it today and everything is completely dead. odd? i don't really mind though, i can live without power locks. i think there is also an actuator in the rear door (barn doors here)

today we had to fix a Bravada a buddy had bought, who's always-on accessory line was shorting out. the circuit breaker's socket was burnt and it kept resetting. power locks were slow and power seat was barely moving. eventually a burning smell was noticed after several hours of taking apart the dashboard and testing stuff. it turns out the button for the electric lumbar on the otherwise non-electric passenger seat was stuck and the wires going to it were burnt and shorting out. problem fixed, now it needs an alternator and a battery =/

(oh, sorry for the OT)
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Re: Power door locks

Postby tedanderson » December 28th 2009, 12:34am

Definitely spray the latches but don't forget to do the linkages too. I don't have power locks but for a while I was having issues with manually turning the key on every lock other than the driver's door. The force needed to turn lock made it seem like I was about to break the key. A few sprays on the latch and linkages with WD-40 and silicone spray solved the problem.
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Re: Power door locks

Postby rev_les » December 28th 2009, 5:32am

when one actuator goes from age...the other's aren't far behind.They get really slow before they completely die.
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