Looked at a 2000 AWD today - red flags or not...?

[castlerox]

Hi! New guy here just started shopping

THE GOOD:
$2850 asking price
95,000 Original miles
Shifts super smooth
CC works
Windows work
No leaks
Feels strong
No electrical harness for towing (assume it is tow free)

THE BAD:
Rear AC doesn't work - I'm in AZ this is the most impt flaw - Whats the worst case scenario?
Windshield Wipers don't work
Interior plastic rough - driver side door panel nearly falling off... loose plastic everywhere
Body a little dinged up

Are the "Bad" deal breakers? Can they send me to the bank on this? My budget is around $5,500 to get started with an Astro with a 2" lift and new 235's in good working order...

Any comments?

[Corsemoto]

Both rear a/c and windshield wipers could be simple fixes.

Windshield wiper could be motor or circuit board which is common.

If main a/c works, it probably isn't major, unless rear a/c was disconnected for some reason.

You can always source used trim parts at a junk yard to spruce up so I wouldn't think that is a major concern.

I think the low mileage, seemingly good transmission and other important areas outweigh the relatively minor negatives. For that kind of money, anything is going to require some amount of repair work.

[Sailing_Faith]

For the price, those low miles?

I would jump on it. Couple trips to a junk yard will take care of pretty much all that.

[Leeann_93]

Jump on it.

[castlerox]

I jumped on it... got it for $2,600 - but not all that glitter is gold!

On my way home down the freeway it started overheating with the AC on

I jumped in, now I am falling down the cliff haha.

Starting with a cooling system flush and a radiator recoore... woo woo, here we GO!

[Corsemoto]

Congratulations!

Probably worth replacing t-stat (like a Stant 195 degree) and check the fan clutch too.

[castlerox]

Rad Fluids way low.... resevoir just kinda floating in the engine compartment...

rust in fluid. New RAD for sure

[redfury]

Well, that means that the A/C is converting heat to cold, so that's a plus. You might want to check the function of the rear A/C switch, If it has rear heat as well, then it's a matter of just swapping switches around.

Overheating is going to be caused by a weak water pump not circulating coolant fast enough, a faulty thermostat, bad fan clutch or something far more sinister, a head gasket leak.

As far as the less sinister components, first check the fan clutch. Simple check, when cold and the engine is off, try spinning the fan. It should have resistance. If it free wheels, then your fan isn't doing its job when the van isn't getting airflow from driving at speed.

When exactly does it begin to overheat?

[castlerox]

Fan has resistance.

I was on the freeway for about 15 mins... Cruise control on at about 65 with the AC full tilt MAX AC on. Temp suddenly rose pretty rapidly.

I immediately put the heat on all blasters slowed down to the next exit and let it idle. it cooled fast. Drove home no AC but it was still running hot from the heat up.

Once home I let it cool then discovered the Radiator fluid was WAY low. I took a hose to it (for now) to see how much drink it would take. Filled it to the top and topped off the reservoir. I took it for a casual spin with the AC on and it stayed below the 1/2 mark.

Parked and let it cool again.

Once cool, I opened the radiator again and it is VERY VERY brown and rusty water. Reservoir drained and no sign of leaks.

My first guess is the Radiator and fluids need a full flush. I am not opposed to starting fresh with a new radiator to boot. I did this same thing when I bought my first westy. Never had a problem after that. Hoping that is the case here.

[castlerox]

FYI folks... this is happening... Thanks for being an awesome community.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZCgJbRy_zU

[Sailing_Faith]

Oh, just thought about rear AC.

Remove the fan switch from the dash (it just pops out) and unplug it. Look at the connector on the back, these are known to get hot and melt /corrode. Won't help w the overheating issue, but should get the fan turning anyway.

[Sailing_Faith]

FYI folks... this is happening... Thanks for being an awesome community.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZCgJbRy_zU

The link leads to a video about your Westie, was that what you intended to post?

[castlerox]

Yep. Westy for sale.

Astro in progress. I will check that rear AC wiring.

After adding massive amounts of fluids to the radiator I took it for a freeway cruise with max AC and it maintained about 190 degrees. I am still going to flush all the fluids and replace the radiator with a larger core radiator.

Arizona 107 degrees HOT!

[AstroWill]

Well an A/C system doesn't generate cold air, just moves the heat somewhere else. In this case it transfers it to in front of the radiator. So any weakness with your cooling system will start to show up worse when the A/C is on.

If you are low on coolant, there is a leak somewhere. Check your oil, make sure your not getting water in there, the hoses, cap, water pump, radiator for signs of leaking. Another common place to leak is the lower intake gasket which can be a pita.

Once you fix the leak, then I would flush/drain/fill and you should be good to go.

[Leeann_93]

Your fan clutch is fine. It's not used at highway speeds but is used at idle. Since it cooled off idling, the fan clutch is good.

If the coolant is that sludgy, consider a chemical flush, then flush with water then fill with 50/50 mix of green stuff and distilled water. Sounds like someone didn't flush out all the deathcool before they put in green.

[Herman Wiegman]

CastleRox,
Welcome to the site and congrats... but do expect to "fix" a few issues and burn up some $$'s to make you van right. This is what I did with a $1500 Safari... now I'm in a total of $4000, but she is solid and runs confidently.

I am with AstroWill on this one.. check your oil by draining it... I think you may be looking at some new intake manifold gaskets (notorious issue on the 4.3liter).
I am also with Leeann... go get some radiator flush and install the "T" fitting into the heater hoses over by the passenger fender wall. This is an easy 2 day activity to properly clean out your system.
Oh.. BTW, the "rusty colored" fluid could also be due to the DexCool coolant, which is Orange in color and recommended for GM vehicles.

Herminator

[crgastro]

i would recommend a waterpump also because if you have sludge they will probably go soon as well. my rear a/c switch burned the connectors and the wiring and the switch so if that is the problem, you have to get it from a wrecking yard as i was unable to find it through a GM dealer (you might have better luck).

[Herman Wiegman]

I actually have a schematic of the electrics for the van... from my Haynes manual.
Take a look at the below picture (click on the thumbnail) and it should help you to trace a few of your AC circuits to help identify the probable issue.



Herinator

[castlerox]

THANKS GUYS!

This AM I took the Astro to the Lube shop to have a look at all the fluids. We flushed the Radiator 4 times until everything ran clear. Replaced the Radiator cap and filled it with fresh dex.

The oil was dirty, but not milky. It was low though. I don't think this van was very cared for since the last owner took it over in 2010. The new oil remained clean after running it, which is a good sign.

Transmission oil, CLEAN. Axles (CLEAN).

With all the essentials done I took it for a highway spin... 80mph on CC for 15 minutes in 102 degrees with max AC on and ZERO signs of heating up. Stayed right at about 190 degrees.

I'm feeling like it is in control.

So far the total $$$ in including purchase is about $2,850, the original asking price. This includes the fluid service, air filters, light bulbs, fuses, rear struts etc etc... I'd say I have this thing in baseline good working order.

NEXT is the Wipers and AC... !!

BTW - Tire Jack is missing - any recommendations?

You guys are awesome

[chevymaher]

BTW - Tire Jack is missing - any recommendations?

I know this is being Mr Obvious but.
Buy one?