URGENT HELP NEEDED: Busted Large Bolt

[romeroom]

I noticed two of the bolts that attach the idler arms to the frame were lose. I tightened one fine, but when I exerted the same pressure on the other it broke off.

Now I have a large broken bold on the frame. I would appreciate some helpful suggestions on how to remove the broken part without damaging the threads on the frame.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Matrixx]

HI romeroom

Would it be possible to get a picture of the broken bolt? Thanks.

[astro355]

HI romeroom

Would it be possible to get a picture of the broken bolt? Thanks.

Yes, please.

Is it broken clean off or is part of the bolt sticking out past the frame?

[romeroom]

HI romeroom

Would it be possible to get a picture of the broken bolt? Thanks.

Below is a picture of the broken bolt. The rest of it is in the frame, beginning below the surface. I suspect I'm going to need to carefully drill into it and use some type of bolt extractor. Thanks for your interest in this. It's been one of those weeks where every day something else goes wrong with the van or some other vehicle--and it's only Tuesday!!!

[astro355]

Actually, can you take a picture of the rest of the bolt in the frame?

[romeroom]

Actually, can you take a picture of the rest of the bolt in the frame?

I will take a picture later today (I think it's today!?). I will need to take the second of the two bolts off to remove the idler arm from the frame to get a better view of the bolt. From what I could see, it is broken off flush to the frame.

[Matrixx]

Hi romeroom

If you could get a picture of it, that would be great. If it's a flush break, and their is no access to that broken bolt from the other side, then my suggestion here is to drill it and use an "Easy Out" on it. Start with a small drill bit first for a pilot hole, then work into a bigger one after that.

The hole drilled "must" be straight in relation to the bolt your removing. The final hole drilled must be at least half the thickness of the bolt or more to get any kind of leverage on it. Might I suggest you replace the other bolt as well holding that idler arm on and use a torque wrench to tighten them. 77ft/lbs. is the proper torque for them. Hope something here helps RR. Please keep us updated, thanks.

[romeroom]

Hi romeroom

If you could get a picture of it, that would be great. If it's a flush break, and their is no access to that broken bolt from the other side, then my suggestion here is to drill it and use an "Easy Out" on it. Start with a small drill bit first for a pilot hole, then work into a bigger one after that.

The hole drilled "must" be straight in relation to the bolt your removing. The final hole drilled must be at least half the thickness of the bolt or more to get any kind of leverage on it. Might I suggest you replace the other bolt as well holding that idler arm on and use a torque wrench to tighten them. 77ft/lbs. is the proper torque for them. Hope something here helps RR. Please keep us updated, thanks.

Thanks for the tips. I took your suggestion went out and purchased the right size "Easy Out." I discovered an error in my appraisal of the situation. When I removed the other bolt and disengaged the idler arm from the frame, I discovered that the remaining broken bolt was not flush with the frame, but sticking out about 3/8 of an inch. I've got it soaking with heavy duty penetrating oil right now. I'm going to lightly tap it with a hammer, re-spray it, and let it sit for a few more hours. It looks like locking pliers will be able to get a good grip on the bolt, or would you suggest I get one of those bolt remover sets that attaches to a socket wrench? I don't want to spend any more money than I have to, yet am considering minimizing further headaches.

Getting a replacement bolt has been the other headache. None of the GM dealers in town have the right size bolt (M12 X 1.75 X 37) and--again--would have to order one from out of state. I went to several hardware stores and other bolt and fastener shops in my town, and have had no luck finding an "automotive grade" bolt I need. I did get a standard grade (8.8) bolt that I may put on while I look for the right type of bolt. There are a couple salvage auto places in town that may have what I need, but was trying to avoid another used part that may be potentially stressed. I may need to go online and order one--hate to pay so much shipping for a bolt or two.

[Matrixx]

Auto wreckers would be a good place to look for sure. I would replace both if you could. Thanks for the updates.

[romeroom]

Well, I tried many things trying to avoid drilling into the bolt with no success--though I did add to my arsenal of tools that I may need someday but didn't work for me today--I think we all have those.

Anyway, here's what I've done so far:

1. Ground the bolt down to make it flush with the frame and easier to see the roundness and center.
2. Purchased 4 cobalt drill bits and two different "Easy Outs.
3. Given the awkward angle I was working with, I could not believe my eyes when I actually centered the drilling on the bolt and drilled straight through.
4. After two sizes of drilling I tried one of the "Easy Outs". No go.
5. Went through several cycles of heating the area with a basic blow torch and cooling and soaking with penetrating oil.
6. Drilled the next two sizes, bringing the size of the hole at least 80% the diameter of the bolt.
7. Inserted the next size "Easy Out" and attached a socket wrench--luckily finding the right socket to fit the square shank. Began to work at it. No go. Attached a midsize breaker bar and gave it a good tug. Nothing. All along I'm trying to avoid breaking the Easy Out because I hear it's murder trying to get those out.
8. Out of frustration--and void of sound mind--I decided to try my electric impact wrench (280 f/p) on the Easy Out--knowing full well it may break. I had the wrench on there (yes, in reverse) for a full 15 seconds until it got real hot. The Easy Out did not break and the bolt did not budge. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!. I stopped.
9. (I failed to mention, while I was shaking off metal bits from my shirt, I got one in my right eye, scratching the heck out of it and it hurts like heck right now. It's fine, so nobody worry.)
10. I decided to go get a tapping tool and the next size cobalt bit. Went to many stores. Nobody had an M12 which is what I need. The stores closed and I decided to call it quits for the day.

Tomorrow, I'm hoping to finish after I find the right tapping tool. With going to the store several times today, I spent nearly 9 hours under the stupid van. While I was under there, I noticed both upper and lower ball joint rubber are completely cracked and almost dry. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! I will be searching for ideas on replacing these from the forum, but if any of you have some quick tips or links on the forum you know of, please send my way.

Thanks for your interest.

[romeroom]

I found someone that has a metric (M12) tapping tool. Does anyone know what size drill bit I need to make the needed hole? Thanks.

[romeroom]

... Does anyone know what size drill bit I need to make the needed hole? Thanks.

I'll answer my own question (and finally have something to contribute to this helpful forum). Below is a handy chart I found online--metric only.

(BTW, is there a way to add search tags to posts? I was going to do that, but don't know how.)

Tap Chart:

[Matrixx]

Hi romeroom

That's great information RR, thanks. Please keep us updated on your progress.

[Big_kid]

Thanks for finding and posting that chart. I've saved it, and will be posting it on one or two VW boards I frequent.

Good luck with the bolt. I'm sure you'll get it out soon. Just keep soaking it.

[romeroom]

The last drill through I did with the corresponding drill bit designed to preset the hole for the M12 X 1.75 tap went well. I had trouble getting the tap started because the initial cutting threads were a bit worn, so I went ahead and bought a new tap. Got it started well, and as luck should have it, half way through tapping the tap broke in half--trully a defect in the product since I gave it very little force. I was able to remove the remaining broken tap without much effort and finished tapping the hole with the other tap I had. Was able to purchase a bolt at a local hardware store I had not visited which had the same grade bolt (10.9) as it had before.

Friends, thanks for the encouragement. This post can be closed, though not sure how that's done.