Hydra-Boost help... brass can?

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Hydra-Boost help... brass can?

Postby nopaybob [OP] » September 11th 2009, 5:25pm

I am in need of repair or replacement knowledge / assistance
This is what happens when you let your wife take your van!
When I went to rescue her and my van I found this along with a huge puddle under the van
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As you can see the brass thingy is not positioned correctly anymore. I grabbed it and applied slight pressure and it did not appear to want to move it felt like it was solid in that position.
Is there a way to repair this malfuction or do you have to replace the whole thing?
1998 4.3 safari 108000 miles
recent repairs, water pump , had a slow leak around the power steering pump so I took it apart and put new seals in it , replaced power steering pressure line.
new cap button and plugs and wires. have drivin 1000 miles since last repair.

I think the brass thing is related to the hydraboost system it is attached to the firewall and the master cylinder is attached to it.
I looked through my haynes manual but it states this item reqires special tools and is beyond the scope of the shade tree mechanic
Any help would be great
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Re: Hydra-Boost help... brass can?

Postby $uperJoe » September 11th 2009, 5:53pm

i dont know if that is a repairable item without specialty tools. it is the reserve canister to hold pressure so if the motor dies you will have 2-3 pushes of the brake pedal before it resorts back to manual brakes. i have no idea about how this would happen in normal driving. maybe you should ask if there was a near accident or panic braking or something
Don't explain it poorly 5 times. Take the 15 seconds to go out and take a picture of it!!
Please do not confuse idle conversation with technical advise


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Re: Hydra-Boost help... brass can?

Postby ASTROJOE LT1 » September 11th 2009, 6:27pm

Looks like you tapped it pretty hard when you were doing your power steering repair. It is press fit in during the manufacturing of the unit so I don't think it will seal up and hold the pressure if you just try to tap it back in. New units are very expensive ($450.00) but the Junk yards around here have a few of the newer style like you need in them.I have not tried to buy one of these but I think they usually ask around $50.00 to $75.00 for them.
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Re: Hydra-Boost help... brass can?

Postby nopaybob [OP] » September 11th 2009, 7:20pm

I guess I will see if I can remove the unit.

It looks as there are 4 studs that go through the firewall and i assume will have nuts to remove way up under the dash .

Does anyone have links for the removal and installation, since my haynes manual is lacking the info?
If I can get this out without tearing anything up I will be going to the junkyard to find a replacement.
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Re: Hydra-Boost help... brass can?

Postby $uperJoe » September 11th 2009, 10:24pm

go to the junk yard first. that way if you mess something up you will have another van to practice on right next to that one. then when you get home to do yours you will be a pro
Don't explain it poorly 5 times. Take the 15 seconds to go out and take a picture of it!!
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Re: Hydra-Boost help... brass can?

Postby astro355 » September 12th 2009, 12:23am

$uperJoe wrote:go to the junk yard first. that way if you mess something up you will have another van to practice on right next to that one. then when you get home to do yours you will be a pro

:goodpost:
Diagnose 1st, never be a parts changer!

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Re: Hydra-Boost help... brass can?

Postby nopaybob [OP] » September 30th 2009, 5:57pm

I went to the junkyard and i found a 99 with the same setup the hydraboost only cost me 20 bucks! vs 400 for a remanufactured
Removal of the hydraboost is easy
1. remove the upper radiater hose
2. remove the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder
3. remove the master clylinder 2 nuts connect it to the hydra boost
4. remove high pressure line, return line and the power steering fluid supply hose from the top of the hydra boost unit
5. after you have your master cylinder off and hoses detached and pushed out of the way get a flash light and a small screwdriver
6. open up your drivers side door and look at your brake pedal follow the pedal up to where it connects to your brake switch and pushrod for the hydraboost.
7. there is a small metal clip that holds everything together the clip will partially rotate so you can get a good look on how to use your screwdriver to pop it off
8. remove the clip now you can separate the brake switch brake pedal and hydraboost rod
9. follow the rod that goes to the firewall there are 4 nuts in a square around the rod remove these
10. now go back under your hood you should be able to grab the hydraboost and pull it free from the firewall

install your new or used hydraboost system and the rest of the stuff above in the reverse order of removing them
check all your fluids antifreeze, brake fluid and power steering fluid.
I had to bleed the power steering by turning the wheel back and forth adding power steering fluid while running
i did not have to bleed the brake system but you may not be so lucky so check your brakes to be safe!

Take special care with the metal clip that holds your brake pedal, brake switch and hydraboost/brake rod together make sure its seated properly if you break it , bend it just get a new one remember if it comes off you have no brakes!

PLEASE NOTE i am only offering a replacement help guide and will not be responsible for any errors or idiots!
Last edited by nopaybob on October 1st 2009, 4:41pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Hydra-Boost help... brass can?

Postby rev_les » October 1st 2009, 12:05am

PLEASE NOTE i am only offering a replacement help guide and will not be responsible for any errors or idiots!
:clap:

AA oughta put a disclaimer up on the site somewhere like that, lol
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Re: Hydra-Boost help... brass can?

Postby tommckay » October 1st 2009, 1:31am

Didn't have to bleed the brakes? Wow, I didn't think that was possible after this:
2. remove the 2 brake lines to the master cylinder

Odd.
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Re: Hydra-Boost help... brass can?

Postby astro355 » October 2nd 2009, 5:21am

tommckay wrote:Didn't have to bleed the brakes? Wow, I didn't think that was possible after this:
2. remove the 2 brake lines to the master cylinder

Odd.


Yeah, I would still bleed the brakes, especially anytime you remove the lines from the master cylinder. :shrug:
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