How to do a 2+1 (3") AWD Lift...

[Rod's Trucks]

It looks like the small amount of alignment can be taken up with the rubber bushing. If not, the added sideways stress might be hard on the seals where the shaft goes into the shock body, but at least that is an easily replaceable part if/when needed. If the shock leaks or dies prematurely, that might be the reason.
If it was mine, I would probably move one washer to the other side, not fret over it; as long as you can get the mounting bolt torqued properly and can keep an eye on any possible movement there.
Rod J
Issaquah, WA

[SportsBoy]

Did you follow the instruction? Loosen then pull apart the cable, then squeeze/ bend in the barbs in and pull the clip out? It can be tricky but I have heard it suggested to pull a zip tie over those barbs and squeeze them down until it starts to pull through the bracket hole, then cut it off and remove... never tried it though.

I read, I read, I promise! Barbs on the bracket are out. It's just at the junction where the cable can be disconnected (as shown in your image below. Mine might just be really corroded, as I cant manage to disconnect it. No amount of twisting or pushing has made it budge yet.

So half_astro had the same problem as me. The bracket where the front and rear halves of the ebrake cable come together seems totally stuck. I don't see a clear answer to how to unstick them as a result of his question unfortunately.

Is there some sort of trick to it? I just don't want to attack it without a plan and mess up the cables or the bracket.

Thanks!

[Rod's Trucks]

If you have loosened up the adjuster, so you have plenty of slack ( you will definitely need lots of slack) in the cable; and the cable will will not even wiggle in the sleeve, then you probably have a lot of corrosion, or rust , or maybe sand wedged in there.
Try soaking it overnight in a penetrant (WD-40, diesel oil, Coke, or something else) overnight. Then try putting pliers on the sleeve and a vice-grip on the cable and see if you can get it to move some.
If that does not work, you may be looking at a new cable assembly any way, so you may just have to cut it apart.
Others may have some additional suggestions.
Good luck
Rod J
Issaquah, WA

[CopperFiremist]

Soak it over night and use a pair of side dikes to open it up a little bit, keep working at it the SOB will come out at some point.

[Leeann_93]

Takes a lot of PB and an application of heat. MAPP gas was better than propane because it’s a little hotter.

[SportsBoy]

Thanks everyone - the rear axle is out, so the ebrake lines are disconnected and plenty loose. I guess it was just super corroded on there.
I like your rear heat bypass by the way Leeann.

I used PB Blaster, then realized there were little nubs on the bottom side that may be holding the cable in. I tried to bend one out of the way, but broke it. Oh well.

I pm'd half_astro and he said he just cut his bracket and replaced it - I got it apart, but may replace it since it's like a dollar on RockAuto and I'm placing an order with them soon. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 5340&jsn=8

Tools used

The mofo

You can see on the side near my glove the nub is there, but on the other it is broken off

The strategy - two vise grips to pry it open and crack the corrosion's seal

Pulled them in opposite directions

The bracket bent and it popped free with a "crack" sound

Got it out and bent the bracket back in place

Got the annoying clip off the bracket that needs drilling by using a 14mm socket

[sixsix]

Does she know you got her gloves...?

Nice work on that cable. So glad our '92 wasn't that bad - we had to route the cable out from going thru the Battery Box supports.
Disconnected the cable at the Pk Brake Assy. first. Had LOTS of slack. Then there was that spring and hose clamp thing...

[Leeann_93]

The garden hose was to keep dirt out until the new rear line set arrived (this is on my '99). After replacing that, I discovered that I caused a leak at the back of the front set when I disconnected the rear set.

So the front set was removed and a copper pipe U was put in its place just inside the passenger wheel well flap thing, and a copper pipe was bent and put into the front of the new rear set to keep it clean. I never did get around to replacing the front set before it spun a bearing.

[markmitch]

when I was swapping frames for my rear drive to AWD I just went online to see if the connectors were available ordered 2 and cut mine with the grinder/cutoff wheel. Seemed to be the best idea for me.