Power Steering Removal Difficulties

[CopperFiremist]

They can get REALLY tight as the get towards being flush with the shaft.

[arian]

In that case it sounds like maybe they had the correct box but the wrong pump. Never had one that wouldn't line up.

All three front pump bolts in properly?

I just got a new power steering pump, after bringing it home and comparing it to the other two, I'm thinking it wasn't necessary... Maybe after taking everything apart and all back together (sigh) maybe things will line up. I was mistaken as well, all three pumps have the same shaft length.

[arian]

They can get REALLY tight as the get towards being flush with the shaft.

I keep doubting myself now that I know all the shafts are the same length. I'm going to give it one more shot before taking everything apart, I might go out of my way to rent a nicer set of pulley tools; the little one I bought might not be up to the task.

[gman]

All of these posts are making me lean towards not replacing mine at this exact moment.
I have read many stories of people driving on whiing pumps for years.
A belt flying off is just as bad as, and equivalent to (or worse than) a pump failure, but doing it now seems like it would be much better than doing it on the road.
Then again, if I can just use the pulley install tool with n)the pump ON the van, while checking alignment with a ruler, then it wouldn't be that much extra labor.
It works fine, just whines once in a while. I don't feel anything odd happening whatsoever.
No loss in much of anything.

Hate to just replace working parts, which can cause other problems in the process.
Would also hate to suddenly lose steering out of nowhere though, but it does not seem like it will suddenly happen like that in my case, but rather give me fair warning and "start to fail", rather than shear a shaft or burst something to cause a sudden loss of fluid.

[AstroWill]

It's usually really straight forward Gman.

[Mmusicman]

Would also hate to suddenly lose steering out of nowhere..

That's not possible... you only lose "power assist"

All of these posts are making me lean towards not replacing mine at this exact moment..

PS: Regarding all the posts about replacing power steering pumps... I've changed many pumps over the decades and I've NEVER had an issue. Most people change them without issue as well.

It's usually really straight forward..

EXACTLY

But yes, you can drive on a whining pump for years.
I originally did it with mine..

[gman]

So my pump got louder, and whined more often, so I just decided to replace it since I am going to be going on a pretty long drive soon.
Anyways, to add to this thread rather than hijack it, I posted a picture of what the pulley should look like.
With a pulley/installer tool from most local LAPS, it goes on in a rather straightforward process, as the installer will automatically stop when the pulley is flush with the pump shaft.
I now know why people warn of damage to the pulley when trying to remove it. It's not that the pulley itself is delicate in any particular way, but it just takes such a sheer amount of energy to both pull it off and put it on, so you would surely bend or break it, or the power steering pump, in the process of trying to do so with pry bars and hammers. It just takes a TON of effort.

Anyways, if you can afford it, I'd get a mityvac with the mva661 (Should be about $60 total), or I've seen some rig up their own seals with a rubber disc and a valve.
Can't guarantee precision with that sort of thing though.

I triple checked my work, and found a small vacuum leak at best, that would completely fail to hold vacuum on another test.
Turns out the hose going to the hydroboost was not on as well as it could have been, because the tube from the reservoir was too close to the body of the reservoir.
That would have been absolute disaster on a drive.
I had to (gently) bend it and put a hose clamp on the tube.

Holds vaccum now. It should never not hold vaccum.
I guess you can just tug on hoses (sort of hard) to make sure they're tight , while doing a lock to lock x times with the front wheels lifted, in a pinch, if you don't have access to a vacuum pump.

Really glad I did it, as my steering is noticeably smoother, and i have just a little more modulation in my brakes (brakes could be placebo).

Anyways, here is the pic of what the pulley on the shaft should look like:



End of pulley, flush with shaft, and it's been good to go.

Should have done a write up, but was too focused on getting the job done quickly and well.
There will probably be a next time, or I will just take pics of the area, the bolts, and the snags that aren't straightforward when I have the fan off next time (maybe when I fix the AC).

[sixsix]

... Anyways, if you can afford it, I'd get a mityvac with the mva661 (Should be about $60 total), or I've seen some rig up their own seals with a rubber disc and a valve.
Can't guarantee precision with that sort of thing though.

I triple checked my work, and found a small vacuum leak at best, that would completely fail to hold vacuum on another test.
Turns out the hose going to the hydroboost was not on as well as it could have been, because the tube from the reservoir was too close to the body of the reservoir.
That would have been absolute disaster on a drive.
I had to (gently) bend it and put a hose clamp on the tube.

Holds vaccum now. It should never not hold vaccum.
I guess you can just tug on hoses (sort of hard) to make sure they're tight , while doing a lock to lock x times with the front wheels lifted, in a pinch, if you don't have access to a vacuum pump.

Don't know much about the subject, other than reading this and other PS posts...
But ya' lost me gman on the vacuum thingee ( $60 Unit and engine related ).

[arian]

Hi! New to the site. I have a 99 AWD ls Astro and the power steering pump has failed! I have almost got it out but i cant get to the nut on the back of the pump. I already removed all the bolts holding it on to the bracket from the front. Should I just try to take out the mounting bracket (will it give me more room)? Also if so will the ac compressor be an issue?

Thanks!

Astrosafari.com

Welcome, I removed the entire bracket, it makes the whole process a lot easier, there is much more room to work with. I just supported the ac compressor with some bungee cord to be safe.

[Mmusicman]

My 2000 AWD had a factory brace on the back-side of the PS pump attached to the engine block.
Mine was accessible through the DS fender... although I am lifted.
I did not reinstall this rear brace.

Yes.. lift A/C compressor off the bracket (4 easily accessible bolts and suspend it by bungees).. then remove PS pump while still attached to the main bracket. Also for some extra finger room.. you can drop the idler arm from frame (leaving it still attached to steering arm).. this may give you the extra inch you need to get in there.

The job is tight on the AWD... the RWD is a snap!

It'll look like this when you pull it...

Here I am pulling (and reinstalling the pulley) using a loaner tool while it is out of the vehicle.

[arian]

I know its been a while, I've had the pump done for some time now, everything going well; but, I wanted to give an update. I'm an idiot/ get better tools. Nothing was wrong with the pump or pulley, I just wasn't installing the pulley on completely. My assumption was that when the installation tool popped off it was going on as far as it would go... nope. I had to put the tool back on three times, continuing to tighten the pulley before it was fully installed. I think the process was a made more difficult because I was using a little installation tool vs the ones you can rent. So if any comes across this thread, don't be overwhelmed by doing a PSP, its a straightforward and pretty easy job, I was just being stupid.

[stent]

My 2000 AWD had a factory brace on the back-side of the PS pump attached to the engine block.
Mine was accessible through the DS fender... although I am lifted.
I did not reinstall this rear brace.

Yes.. lift A/C compressor off the bracket (4 easily accessible bolts and suspend it by bungees).. then remove PS pump while still attached to the main bracket. Also for some extra finger room.. you can drop the idler arm from frame (leaving it still attached to steering arm).. this may give you the extra inch you need to get in there.

The job is tight on the AWD... the RWD is a snap!

It'll look like this when you pull it...

20170729_132037 - 2000 PS Pump.jpg

Here I am pulling (and reinstalling the pulley) using a loaner tool while it is out of the vehicle.

20170729_125307 PS Pump.jpg

thank you for posting this Mmusicman - i will be swapping in a new pump & hoses soon and it's great to know that you can take off the big bracket with the PS pump attached.