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99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

16K views 97 replies 22 participants last post by  WoodButcher 
#1 ·
Purchased this van in 2004 from the original owner. Had the trans done 150k ago with HD internals, beast sun gear, corvette servo, RV cooler up front. Shifts great. Had the ECM tuned for intake, exhaust 3" flowmaster, advance curve. Edelbrock/KYB shocks. Rear sway bar, Timbren bumpstops. Drove it daily till 2018. Changed fluids and maintained regularly.

Began having cooling issues..first the heater core went so I bypassed it with a jack handle to connect the lines (hey it's all I had one morning before work)...then it started to blow radiators and water pump seals...but they would last a while...

Currently 220k on the motor, brand new installed parts include alternator, radiator, water pump, upgraded Spider, valve cover gaskets, PS hose, motor mounts. Brand new rear HD springs (with the overload removed so they fit in the clamshell), new shoes, cylinders.

Did all that stuff and now it has a coolant leak...I think at the intake manifold where it meets the driver side head...it's just pouring out when I add coolant...from behind the AC compressor... sooooo... time to get into the motor...

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#27 ·
Real nice. I remember when the v6 that's currently in my van was being rebuilt (originally for a 92 S-15 pick up). The .060 over pistons, Melling HV oil pump, double roller chain and gear set (mines an early, so it doesn't have a balance shaft in it), RV style cam and roller lifters, all painted up Chevy orange. That's what I like most about these engines, as they share a lot of V8 parts. My 200 V6 was like that (odd fire out of a 78 Malibu), or my 229 (also an odd fire out of a 79 Malibu). Both of those engines went into a Vega (the 200 went into a 73 hatchback) and the 229 went into a 76 Wagon).
 
#28 ·
Thank you all for the comments; I hope this thread can help and inspire others.

I am going to see how far down in the hole the pistons are in relation to the block deck to calculate the compression.

I thought about removing the balance shaft (actually just removing the front gear so it doesn't spin) as many do when they rebuild, but this one wasn't causing any issues so I will probably reinstall it. The rear of the shaft is bearing'd by the bearing in the block like a cam bearing. It has a hole in it just like the cam bearings for oiling. The front bearing of the shaft is a roller ball bearing in a cage and those things can go a million miles.

The shaft is to remove some of the harmonic vibration that caused the earlier 4.3 engines to break things like power steering mount brackets and such. My '89 Astro had this flat tappet motor and although it was a good motor it had that vibe thing going. I drove it 100k on a reman long block that I installed a month after I bought the van. The PO had used horrible oil or never changed it...130k and 1/2" thick sludge in the oil valley.

https://www.s10forum.com/threads/balanc ... al.327057/

https://www.s10forum.com/threads/balanc ... -s.477678/

https://blazerforum.com/forum/engine-tr ... not-13083/

The only noise I ever heard from this motor before was a slight "lifter tick" sound coming in and out very mildly. I'm used to Chevy tick tocks. The noise just reminded me that it sounded normal lol.
 
#29 ·
Yup, the flat tappet engine that was in my 88 had a lifter tick (and would bleed 1 down if it sat long enough). It ran very good though. The 92 engine I replaced it with just had less miles on it, and was pretty fresh. I also knew who machined it, who assembled it too. It was one of those "no expense spared" kind of rebuilds.
 
#30 ·
The engine is coming along I will post pictures soon.

Here are the pistons that are now in the short block

Brand: Keith Black/KB

Manufacturer's Part Number: KB193-030

Product Line: Keith Black KB Performance Pistons

Summit Racing Part Number: UEM-KB193-030

UPC: 800745053695

Piston Rings Included: No

Bore (in): 4.030 in.

Bore (mm): 102.362mm

Stroke: 3.480 in.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb193-030

Engine Stroke Type: Stock

Rod Length: 5.700 in.

Piston Style: Dish, with two valve reliefs

Piston Material: Hypereutectic aluminum

Compression Height (in): 1.561 in.

Piston Head Volume (cc): +12.00cc

Wrist Pin Style: Press-fit or floating

Wrist Pin Retainers Included: Yes

Wrist Pin Included: Yes

Pin Diameter (in): 0.927 in.

Piston Ring Thickness: 5/64 in. x 5/64 in. x 3/16 in.
 
#32 ·
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Block all prepped and bolt holes chased (most of them anyway). I painted the lifter valley with a coat of VHT cast iron grey with the holes all masked off, and I tested an old lifter in the bores to make sure the new ones would fit and move.

(not sure why this picture is 90* sideways)

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Crank ready and cleaned with brake cleaner, it was not cut just polished and standard bearings
(made by King) https://www.kingbearings.com/about/our-factory/

I checked the mains with plastiguage and they all specd out good .001-.003

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I didn't chase the main threads with a tap but I cleaned them with a bristle brush and brake cleaner. Well there was still some small steel shot from the machine shop cleaning and I messed up 2 of the bolts thinking that I could push whatever it was out of the way...Noooooo bad idea....the steel shot does not clean out other than using a tap... So I ordered new bolts from Summit...and I tried their Summit brand stud kit, which I didn't like and then sent them back and got the ARP 2 bolt main bolt kit for a 350; these turned out to be very nice and with the holes chased and clean they went in like butter with the ARP assembly moly bolt lube. Torqued to 70 ft lbs.

I used STP for assembly lube on the bearings.
 
#33 ·
Here are some other pics of the same work on the mains and dropping the crank in.
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This upside down pic views correctly if you click on it. The mains were torqued in stages 30-50-70

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Here you can see the ARP bolts that have the washers; ARP sends some moly assembly lube for the threads and under the bolt shoulders to give a better torque reading.

I did not rehone the main caps alignment after changing to these ARP bolts. The machinist said he checked the alignment and it was fine when he had the stock bolts in (he was making sure we had the caps in the correct spot on the block before numbering them), and I asked him if changing to the ARPs would be ok and he said yes we checked before and there wasn't any damage to the motor when I removed it. Plus I drove and maintained this motor this block this crank for over 150k so I know it was good then.

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Then I moved on to checking the rod bearing clearances. The rods had the ARP bolts also installed and then honed. ARP 133-6001 for the rods. ARP products are nice!

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All the rod bearing clearances turned out to be within very good spec like the mains. One of the mains (the larger very rear bearing) was a little tighter than the others at about .0011 Most were around .0012-0015?
 
#36 ·
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Had to retap the crank bolt to 12x1.25 metric. Long story short I used the old bolt to turn the engine over and I didn't use washers, instead I bottomed it out and it messed up the bolt end on the inside of the crank bolt hole. Hence removing it messed up the crank threads. I cleaned it up with a 7/16-20 tap... but then I felt the bolt was too loose, it was wiggly. So I drilled it with 27/64 and retapped to 12x1.25 and went and got another bolt. Then drilled out the original 1/4" thick washer to accept the metric bolt.

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The balance shaft had to be tapped inward more so that it turned freely after putting the gear on. The dot on the small gear had to be rubbed with scotch brite in order to see it properly. Did everything with cylinder 1 at TDC.
 
#37 ·
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1 @ TDC ; KB-193 pistons 4.030

The KB pistons require more ring gap on the first ring. It's because the alloy these pistons are made of transfer more heat and the ring landing is higher and closer to the combustion chamber. So if you leave them spec to standard, the rings will close up to themselves and crack a piston.

I set them up for "towing". I figured I want to be able to drive it hard in the heat if needed.

4.030 bore size X "ring gap end factor" .0080 = .032 top ring gap
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I used a flat file and then a knife stone to chamfer the edges. Yes I messed up 2 rings and went too large. But this was a V8 ring set. Yayy.

Second ring gap was already good at .020

The oil control rings don't get gapped, just staggered on the spring so the ends don't line up. Then I did a bunch of reading about ring gap placements and realized that rings slowly TURN in the grooves anyway, as the engine runs! So as long as you stagger them, they will be fine.
 
#38 ·
For other engine rebuilds I would coat lots of motor oil on the rings and walls but this time I opted for a more clean and simple manner. There are many theories on the dry vs. wet piston install. Some people literally install them dry and coat only the skirts and pins. Some people use a thin coating of ATF on the walls and dry rings.

I used this oil on everything https://www.helmar.com.au/Helmar-Produc ... e-oil.html and I added some regular motor oil to the pins.

The walls, pistons and rings got only the Helmar machine super lube white oil, a simple and very thin watery oil. It has stayed in the cross hatch for over a week now and I am confident that the rings will seal up quickly without having to push around a bunch of thick stuff.

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#39 ·
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Installed the timing chain made by PBM Performance Products, part number T3212

It installed nicely but seems a little loose, about 3/8" play? The old chain is about 1/8" longer
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The 2004 Blazer manual I am using for assembly info has some sort of adjuster but mine didn't come with one when I tore it down and there isn't one in the PBM box.

Anyone have any experience doing a timing chain on a balance shaft motor? I believe these are the only chains that can fit with the balance shaft gears behind the chain. It just seems looser than it should be. It does not come off the sprocket at all though. The trailing side tightens up some when turning the engine over.
 
#40 ·
My uncle when he was alive used a mixture of marvel mystery oil and some assembly lube with lead in it. He was chief engine builder for Richard Petty and also for a few nascar teams over the years. I don't know any of his secrets though lol I only seen him maybe 4 times in my life cause he traveled all the time. Nice write up!
 
#42 ·
After some research and checking, I ordered a Cloyes C3211 timing chain. It's twice the size of the one listed for the '99. Hopefully it all works because it is numbered for "up to '98" but it installed perfectly and the hall sensor pickup lined up properly. Here are some pictures comparing it to the other chain which was a stock replacement.
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I didn't want to end up putting the "factory fix" adjuster or risk breaking that smaller chain because of the added power of the engine (probably would have been fine) but the heavy duty Cloyes C3211 was just immensely better all around!

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Sprocket is literally double the thickness

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Both are true roller chains but the rollers on the Cloyes are double size! Very nice product.

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The chain was also tighter but just enough slack to install it. I put 2 drops of blue locktite on the cam sprocket bolts and tightened them to 22 ft lbs.

The crank sprocket went on solid with a 1 1/2" pipe

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dots line up

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#43 ·
It takes TIME to build a motor! All the little things that can come up and surprise you.

Had to order the timing cover and install the oil pump after welding the pickup tube in place.

Welder broke so I got an exhaust shop to zap it. 66 ft lbs on the pump bolt. Day trip to drop welder off.

Cleaned and painted the pan (didn't want the aluminum to be able to oxidize anymore).

Installed the pan and used Permatex "Right Stuff" in the corners which is one step above the Ultra Black. The Right Stuff is the same formula as Toyota FIPG from what I hear.

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Drilled the pushrod holes in the head for more angle since I'm using 1.6 rocker arms. The one on the right is drilled to 1/2" and elongated toward and from the valve. The hole on left is stock.

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You can see 2 of the rocker arm studs which are almost removed. Those are the stock ones to be pulled out. I haven't installed the correct adjustable ones yet.

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#44 ·
Great write up. Looking fwd to seeing the final results. If my 99 does not sell soon, I have looked at the possibility of a 95 cam and 1.6 rockers for it. Trans is already set for towing, so a small
bump in torque would be great!
 
#45 ·
Darn !! :banghead:

Having to buy that whole new Beautiful Timing Cover - drat.
Heck, having to cover up that gorgeous Timing Chain would seem like a crime.
New one looks like Artwork for me.

Do you recall what the pt # is on those heads ? On the left in that 'elong'd. hole pic. ?

Thanks also for avoiding buying any 'other' porn this month - LOL
 
#47 ·
Work, life, weather and everything caught up with me but the motor is ready to go in. I installed the intake on it and realized I had to take the intake off again so that I could install the engine into the compartment... the way it came out...with no intake... Updates and more details to come.
 
#48 ·
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I cut the EGR pipe off and went to a later intake.

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I used a bearing (5/8"?) to plug the hole in the exhaust manifold and cut the tube. Used the old hardware and chamfered the pipe part to mount it down.

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Mahle gasket with metal center was much better than the cheaper Fel Pros that came with the rebuild gasket set.

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Lot of little things that take up time. Of course after I installed the intake and throttle body I realized I had to remove the intake again. To get the engine installed. Haha.
 
#49 ·
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Another view with the preemptive intake installed. The valve covers are also the older style because the later Vortec plastic ones don't fit over these 1.6 rockers and the way we did the valvetrain. I ordered these from eBay they are for a Marine 4.3 stock stamped steel older Vortec I think '87 up? Cant remember.

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This is where it's at today, ready to go in.

I will post some other pictures that backtrack on the build a little. I have to find them in my phone.
 
#50 ·
A look back to the heads installation

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sharp edges taken off in chamber with a sandpaper roll

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gasket i chose this one because it was thinner i think .030 as compared to something like the .045 Felpro

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new head bolts with sealer, i did the right sequence but the torque stretch method sucks i did it my way based on another guys experience building a few 4.3's that ran real good (he had a few others fail using the stretch method), so hopefully i chose right.
 
#51 ·
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new lifters soaking in oil before putting them in

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ARP mains and rod bolts with the ARP moly thread lube. I tried Summit brand main studs/nuts which I didn't like and then Summit bolts and didn't like them either. ARP are much better quality.

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