99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby JD_GM [OP] » May 14th 2020, 4:45am

IMG_4771.JPG


Cleaned and painted of course Chevy Orange with VHT engine paint, which sprayed nicer than I thought. Hey for $9 per can it better haha.

The bore hone is finer cross hatch for moly rings. Ken told me that Keith Black recommends a looser top ring at .030 gap because of the piston metal that transfers heat faster than other pistons so we don't want the top ring to close up on the gap if it runs too hot.

New cam bearings and freeze plugs. I *might* paint the oil galley with something as it feels very rough. Not sure yet I will think about it.

Have to remember the pistons go in the obvious direction (valve reliefs at the top duh) but the rods are side specific with the way they are on the rods.

The rods bearing notches go "away" from the cam and face outside of the block. (putting here so I remember haha)

IMG_4772.JPG
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby domsan » May 14th 2020, 8:55am

nice work
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby Rinny » May 14th 2020, 12:36pm

Damn that is looking good!!
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby Mmusicman » May 14th 2020, 2:04pm

DAMN SWEEEEET!!!! :thumbup:
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby Mmusicman » May 14th 2020, 2:46pm

The fresh bored cylinders, nice new over-sized performance pistons, heads, valve-job and all machine work, new cam... ALL BEAUTIFUL!!! Fully building an engine "the right way" from bottom up is always exciting and fun!!!

Yeah it's only a V6... BUT that's going to be one BAD-ASS V6!
I'm certain it will not disappoint in ANY way! Especially the way you are building it!!
The V6 is an awesome little engine, and this one will probably outlive you! lol

I've built a few engines in my lifetime and I have to admit I just learned something new today from one of your many fantastic photos! I've never actually seen the inside of a 4.3 (when mine went bad it went to the curb)... and I had NO idea what this was! I've never seen one before. I had to do a little research and find out what it is. Interesting to learn they can actually cause some internal knocking if they wear or go bad...

IMG_2446-v6 balancer.jpg

Let me re-post just one of your very cool photos!!!
They are ALL so FANTASTIC!! :thumbup:

Image

IMPRESSIVE AND COOL IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT!

Note: Interesting hook-placement and angle how you pulled the engine.
The "home-made" engine stand is very cool too!

You have also shown how easy it is to cut the cross-support and pull it out easily from the front.
Great detail and step-by-step! You obviously are very skilled at engineering what ever you need.
You can elaborate on any part of the job as much as you like.. one day you'll look back on it all for reference.

Image

Excellent job.... great updates and photos!
Looking forward to the BIG DAY!!! :D
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby AstroWill » May 14th 2020, 8:03pm

So fresh, and so clean!

Trolls take away from productive work, best to starve the troll of attention by ignoring it and going about your business.
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby 90safari » May 15th 2020, 12:26am

Real nice. I remember when the v6 that's currently in my van was being rebuilt (originally for a 92 S-15 pick up). The .060 over pistons, Melling HV oil pump, double roller chain and gear set (mines an early, so it doesn't have a balance shaft in it), RV style cam and roller lifters, all painted up Chevy orange. That's what I like most about these engines, as they share a lot of V8 parts. My 200 V6 was like that (odd fire out of a 78 Malibu), or my 229 (also an odd fire out of a 79 Malibu). Both of those engines went into a Vega (the 200 went into a 73 hatchback) and the 229 went into a 76 Wagon).
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby JD_GM [OP] » May 15th 2020, 6:38pm

Thank you all for the comments; I hope this thread can help and inspire others.

I am going to see how far down in the hole the pistons are in relation to the block deck to calculate the compression.

I thought about removing the balance shaft (actually just removing the front gear so it doesn't spin) as many do when they rebuild, but this one wasn't causing any issues so I will probably reinstall it. The rear of the shaft is bearing'd by the bearing in the block like a cam bearing. It has a hole in it just like the cam bearings for oiling. The front bearing of the shaft is a roller ball bearing in a cage and those things can go a million miles.

The shaft is to remove some of the harmonic vibration that caused the earlier 4.3 engines to break things like power steering mount brackets and such. My '89 Astro had this flat tappet motor and although it was a good motor it had that vibe thing going. I drove it 100k on a reman long block that I installed a month after I bought the van. The PO had used horrible oil or never changed it...130k and 1/2" thick sludge in the oil valley.

https://www.s10forum.com/threads/balanc ... al.327057/

https://www.s10forum.com/threads/balanc ... -s.477678/

https://blazerforum.com/forum/engine-tr ... not-13083/

The only noise I ever heard from this motor before was a slight "lifter tick" sound coming in and out very mildly. I'm used to Chevy tick tocks. The noise just reminded me that it sounded normal lol.
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby 90safari » May 15th 2020, 10:04pm

Yup, the flat tappet engine that was in my 88 had a lifter tick (and would bleed 1 down if it sat long enough). It ran very good though. The 92 engine I replaced it with just had less miles on it, and was pretty fresh. I also knew who machined it, who assembled it too. It was one of those "no expense spared" kind of rebuilds.
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby JD_GM [OP] » June 23rd 2020, 4:39pm

The engine is coming along I will post pictures soon.

Here are the pistons that are now in the short block

Brand: Keith Black/KB

Manufacturer's Part Number: KB193-030

Product Line: Keith Black KB Performance Pistons

Summit Racing Part Number: UEM-KB193-030

UPC: 800745053695

Piston Rings Included: No

Bore (in): 4.030 in.

Bore (mm): 102.362mm

Stroke: 3.480 in.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb193-030

Engine Stroke Type: Stock

Rod Length: 5.700 in.

Piston Style: Dish, with two valve reliefs

Piston Material: Hypereutectic aluminum

Compression Height (in): 1.561 in.

Piston Head Volume (cc): +12.00cc

Wrist Pin Style: Press-fit or floating

Wrist Pin Retainers Included: Yes

Wrist Pin Included: Yes

Pin Diameter (in): 0.927 in.

Piston Ring Thickness: 5/64 in. x 5/64 in. x 3/16 in.
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby JD_GM [OP] » June 23rd 2020, 4:40pm

this spec sheet was for the rod bearing bolts from ARP

https://tech.arp-bolts.com/instructions/133-6001.pdf
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby JD_GM [OP] » June 25th 2020, 12:49am

IMG_5165.JPG


Block all prepped and bolt holes chased (most of them anyway). I painted the lifter valley with a coat of VHT cast iron grey with the holes all masked off, and I tested an old lifter in the bores to make sure the new ones would fit and move.

(not sure why this picture is 90* sideways)

IMG_5088.JPG

Crank ready and cleaned with brake cleaner, it was not cut just polished and standard bearings
(made by King) https://www.kingbearings.com/about/our-factory/

I checked the mains with plastiguage and they all specd out good .001-.003

IMG_5089.jpg


IMG_5091.jpg


I didn't chase the main threads with a tap but I cleaned them with a bristle brush and brake cleaner. Well there was still some small steel shot from the machine shop cleaning and I messed up 2 of the bolts thinking that I could push whatever it was out of the way...Noooooo bad idea....the steel shot does not clean out other than using a tap... So I ordered new bolts from Summit...and I tried their Summit brand stud kit, which I didn't like and then sent them back and got the ARP 2 bolt main bolt kit for a 350; these turned out to be very nice and with the holes chased and clean they went in like butter with the ARP assembly moly bolt lube. Torqued to 70 ft lbs.

I used STP for assembly lube on the bearings.
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby JD_GM [OP] » June 25th 2020, 1:59am

Here are some other pics of the same work on the mains and dropping the crank in.
IMG_5247.JPG


IMG_5249.JPG

This upside down pic views correctly if you click on it. The mains were torqued in stages 30-50-70

IMG_5250.JPG

Here you can see the ARP bolts that have the washers; ARP sends some moly assembly lube for the threads and under the bolt shoulders to give a better torque reading.

I did not rehone the main caps alignment after changing to these ARP bolts. The machinist said he checked the alignment and it was fine when he had the stock bolts in (he was making sure we had the caps in the correct spot on the block before numbering them), and I asked him if changing to the ARPs would be ok and he said yes we checked before and there wasn't any damage to the motor when I removed it. Plus I drove and maintained this motor this block this crank for over 150k so I know it was good then.

IMG_5251.jpg


IMG_5258.jpg

Then I moved on to checking the rod bearing clearances. The rods had the ARP bolts also installed and then honed. ARP 133-6001 for the rods. ARP products are nice!

IMG_5267.JPG

All the rod bearing clearances turned out to be within very good spec like the mains. One of the mains (the larger very rear bearing) was a little tighter than the others at about .0011 Most were around .0012-0015?
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby Mr_Roboto » June 25th 2020, 3:36am

Looking good. I did the CPI Cam in a Vortec Engine with stock specs and it made 237HP as per Engine Analyzer Pro. I bet this fella cooks pretty well. For a production engine the CPI cam was actually pretty hot especially within the era it was made.
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby chevymaher » June 26th 2020, 1:03am

I like.
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby JD_GM [OP] » July 1st 2020, 2:41am

IMG_5411.JPG

Had to retap the crank bolt to 12x1.25 metric. Long story short I used the old bolt to turn the engine over and I didn't use washers, instead I bottomed it out and it messed up the bolt end on the inside of the crank bolt hole. Hence removing it messed up the crank threads. I cleaned it up with a 7/16-20 tap... but then I felt the bolt was too loose, it was wiggly. So I drilled it with 27/64 and retapped to 12x1.25 and went and got another bolt. Then drilled out the original 1/4" thick washer to accept the metric bolt.

IMG_5410.JPG


IMG_5441.JPG

The balance shaft had to be tapped inward more so that it turned freely after putting the gear on. The dot on the small gear had to be rubbed with scotch brite in order to see it properly. Did everything with cylinder 1 at TDC.
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby JD_GM [OP] » July 1st 2020, 3:21am

IMG_5443.jpg

1 @ TDC ; KB-193 pistons 4.030


The KB pistons require more ring gap on the first ring. It's because the alloy these pistons are made of transfer more heat and the ring landing is higher and closer to the combustion chamber. So if you leave them spec to standard, the rings will close up to themselves and crack a piston.

I set them up for "towing". I figured I want to be able to drive it hard in the heat if needed.

4.030 bore size X "ring gap end factor" .0080 = .032 top ring gap
6214277-KBHypereutecticClearances.jpg


I used a flat file and then a knife stone to chamfer the edges. Yes I messed up 2 rings and went too large. But this was a V8 ring set. Yayy.

Second ring gap was already good at .020

The oil control rings don't get gapped, just staggered on the spring so the ends don't line up. Then I did a bunch of reading about ring gap placements and realized that rings slowly TURN in the grooves anyway, as the engine runs! So as long as you stagger them, they will be fine.
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby JD_GM [OP] » July 1st 2020, 3:41am

For other engine rebuilds I would coat lots of motor oil on the rings and walls but this time I opted for a more clean and simple manner. There are many theories on the dry vs. wet piston install. Some people literally install them dry and coat only the skirts and pins. Some people use a thin coating of ATF on the walls and dry rings.

I used this oil on everything https://www.helmar.com.au/Helmar-Produc ... e-oil.html and I added some regular motor oil to the pins.

The walls, pistons and rings got only the Helmar machine super lube white oil, a simple and very thin watery oil. It has stayed in the cross hatch for over a week now and I am confident that the rings will seal up quickly without having to push around a bunch of thick stuff.

Machine-Oil-125ml.jpg
Machine-Oil-125ml.jpg (28.92 KiB) Viewed 91 times
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby JD_GM [OP] » July 1st 2020, 3:51am

IMG_5445.JPG

Installed the timing chain made by PBM Performance Products, part number T3212

It installed nicely but seems a little loose, about 3/8" play? The old chain is about 1/8" longer
IMG_5447.JPG

The 2004 Blazer manual I am using for assembly info has some sort of adjuster but mine didn't come with one when I tore it down and there isn't one in the PBM box.

Anyone have any experience doing a timing chain on a balance shaft motor? I believe these are the only chains that can fit with the balance shaft gears behind the chain. It just seems looser than it should be. It does not come off the sprocket at all though. The trailing side tightens up some when turning the engine over.
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Re: 99 SAFARI 2WD DRIVER BUILD

Postby markmitch » July 1st 2020, 6:56pm

My uncle when he was alive used a mixture of marvel mystery oil and some assembly lube with lead in it. He was chief engine builder for Richard Petty and also for a few nascar teams over the years. I don't know any of his secrets though lol I only seen him maybe 4 times in my life cause he traveled all the time. Nice write up!
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