hotrodding the 4.3 V6 (tips & tricks)

G'day and peace be with ye! :greetings-waveyellow: Welcome back to CHAPTER 6 (PART FOUR) TRADITIONAL HOTRODDING: HEADS .......................Chevy did ALOT to our 4.3 heads over the years, so just slapping on some 96'-up vortec heads (which FLOW the best) isnt gonna work very well. If you do a search for: doug anderson rebuilding the 262.............you'll get the 411 on what tomfoolery gm has done to insure that any old school hotrodding, in regards to head-swapping as well as engine building wont be cheap, easy, or fun. ( Due to minor changes in head design........DONT use the WRONG head in the wrong application! Some intakes were WIDENED alittle to use the cpi poppet injecters, the heads were thusly RESIZED / MATCHED to accomodate the newer size!) The only engines really benefitting the vortec heads are early 4.3 's ( pre '96). So, the stock tbi manifold wont match. :crying: Theres still hope...........if you want the vortech heads....................... and want to keep your tbi, you can get an edelbrock performer 4.3 vortech heads compatable intake. Use a tbi adapter spacer to bolt it on. just a suggestion. According to hotrod, the best vortec head #'s are: 772, 140, or 113. The first two are NON ADJUSTABLE "zero-lash" heads. Hotrod suggests drilling and tapping for v8 type screw in studs instead of pressed. Theres a 50/50 chance of the 113's being adjustable. ('87-91 had adjustable rockers, '92 some are adj.......... some are'nt, '93-up are supposedly NON adjustable) Here are some pics........................................ Much better! Heres a comparison ..................................... Here you'll see the trademark vortec "heart-shape" combustion chamber on the right. Just to be certain if the vortec heads you want or have acquired will match your current engine, please call your favorite after-market jobber (jegs, summit etc.) tech line...........they have ALOT more experience in this matter. I dont want to see anyone waste money, or get frustrated trying to have fun hotrodding their engine. :thumbup: Heres some more pics................................................................ For some reason, hotrod magazine wanted to use STOCK heads in their 4.3 buildup.( Plus, I think they wanted smaller ports for a later supercharger upgrade? I do know s/c's REALLY work well on restricted intake engines.......................maybe THATS why?) Heres another roller rocker pic...................................................................................... SEXY!!!! Roller TIPS are very failure-proof........but, FULL rollers are awesome in nature. :music-rockout:

HAPPY JULY 4th!!!I!!!!!! :flags-waveusa: :handgestures-salute: "if you can read this................. thank a teacher! if you can read this in english.......................................... thank a vet!" Not mine................ but cool. This is CHAPTER SIX (PART FIVE) TRADITIONAL HOTRODDING: CAMSHAFT..............................Choices are VERY limited concerning the 262 (4.3) v6. All the factory grinds are very mild.( although the " b", and" w" engine cams are BETTER than the base "z" cam) The best choice for ultimate performance would be the after market camshafts. Comp. cams (hi-energy/ magnum series) edelbrock (performer series) and crane ( fireball series) Although crane went out of business , you can probably still get parts. Comp. cams would be first choice. Their "260 cam" kits (ahr, hr, and h series as well.) are VERY extensive. Sort of pricey but They dont skimp on the important parts. Hotrod used their BIGGEST cam: 280 hr with 224/ 224 duration at 0.050, 0.525 lift, with a 110 degree lobe separation. This cam kit (pnk 09-430-8), came with cam, lifters, retainers, locks, seals, timing set, valve springs, push rods, guide plates and rocker studs. (whew!) Edelbrock is a good , slam dunk, no-brainer. Their performer series of matched intake with cam takes all the guess work out of it. Their "260 cam" (#3714) is primarily set up for street running. (Low to mid RPM power range.) There are so many nuances involved with cam profiles and intended usage, you should call the tech line of your choice of cam manufacture. Or, call Jegs or summit ..............................ROLLER LIFTERS Both of Comp. cams hi energy (normal usage), and magnum (higher speeds) roller lifters (850-12) are for use in blocks originally equipped with hydraulic roller cams. (87-present) Pro magnum Roller lifter benefits: eliminates excessive oiling at high speeds, is heat treated for strength, wear resistant, has longer"piston" than conventional lifters resulting in increased engine speed.(rpms) Also, comp. cams recommends BEFORE usage: wash roller lifters with mineral spirits. Blow dry. Then submerge r-lifters in 30w oil for 30 minutes. Once installed, a good quality aftermarket cam should yield 15-30 horsepower. CAUTION: dont get TOO carryed away thinking about horses only. A cam that is TOO BIG for the street may sound cool but, will fall on its face unless you regear, or change the torque converter. Please enjoy your holiday, peeps! :chevy:

Hope everyone had a good time yesterday and didnt get smokey the bear angry. :angry-extinguishflame: Welcome to CHAPTER SIX (PART SIX) TRADITIONAL HOTRODDING: FORGED PISTONS............................. These are speedpro (lw2256-f-060) light weight forgings (686 grams) four valve reliefs, 6.1 cc of dish. The factory cast pistons are pretty good stuff. But, if you intend to run higher compression, nitrous, super-charging, or turbo-charging.......... forged pistons are a must!!! ( steel rods are also a given. No aluminum.) Since the factory issue 4.3 v6 has a bunch of various piston types and sizes please accept the commentary of a hotrod magizine 4.3 engine build-up. Hotrod also suggests the most preferred engine blocks for modifications are non balance shaft equipped. (from '85-'92.) Verbatim: "rings are sealed power (r9902-060 file fits) set at 0.024 and 0.020. A bit wide so when using NITROUS we wont worry about butting the end gaps." Hotrod suggests a precision balance job should be done as well. "With stock heads at 68cc , at an average of 0.010 below deck, fel pro head gaskets with 0.041 compressed thickness..........the v6 SHOULD have a 9.63 compression." (Stock was 8.61 compression.) Hotrod changed their minds mid build so they could try the vortech blower later. So, they milled the pistons creating a 3.475x0.060 "dish" for a total volume of 12cc. Lowering compression from 9.63 to 9.08. (6.1cc to 12cc respectfully.) CONNECTING RODS/ BEARINGS................. Hotrod says...."the 4.3 conrods are 5.700 inch like the 350 v8, but the journal size is 2.250. The 350 journal size is 2.100. ( The 4.3 has a BIGGER journal respectfully.) The 262 (4.3) also has NARROWER rods. Sealed power, tri metal bearings (pn 6-1020cp) were chosen for the bottom end. Milidon 350 v8 main studs and oil pump studs were installed as well. Forged cranks ARE available, but most are designed for OLDER , ODD FIRE 4.3 v6s. (Too much vibration for the street. Fine for racing!) The stock crank is pretty stout enough to get away with just using forged pistons. (If you're really hardcore, use a sy/ty crank instead) Just dont go crazy with the boost! :mrgreen: Side Note: The 4.3 can use the folowing from the 350: I/E.....pistons, cam bearings, main bearings, valvetrain, timing cover, oil pump, and front dress. The 4.3 has TWO bolt mains, but v8 FOUR bolt end caps can be installed. The block will have to be linebored though. BOTTOMEND/ WINDAGE TRAY.................... Milodon 350 windage tray helps cut FRICTIONAL horsepower loss. This one was cut and tweeked to fit. The following are sealed power pieces: I/E...................oil pump (224-43469v) oil pump pick up ( 224-14263) (An upgrade over stock! Uses 3/4 in. pick up tube.), and the oil pump drive shaft (pn 224-6146e). BALANCER................................... Pioneer balancer (pn 872021)( Uses the same bolt pattern as 350 v8.) The stock balancer on the left has a "lip" that might prevent the use of after-market pulleys. So, hotrod replaced it. Side note: the 262 (4.3) is also INTERNALLY balanced like the 350. Heres the finished product.................................... Dyno numbers are in 500 rpm increments. (Sorry, Too much typing!) :techie-typing: rpm 3,500.........hp 194./trq 292.3 4,000.........hp 232./trq 305.1 4,500.........hp 269./trq 314.7 5,000.........hp 291./trq 306.7 5,500.........hp 301./trq 287.7 6,000.........hp 293./trq 256.6 You'll notice, the 3oo horses come pretty late in the power curve. Although the OVERALL power is respectable..........you got to wind the crap out of it to get it! Plus, they CHEATED alittle by using an electric water pump, and LONG tube headers!!! Hmmm. At least the torque curve IS very healthy. If you wanna duplicate EVERYTHING , it'll cost ya $3,000 (including machine work). :shock: Heres a pic of the 280 hr cam that was'nt available when I last posted....................................... I'm just about out of petrol from post n................so I'm bailing out for now. Enjoy your sunday. Brian :layrubber:

For those of you who are following this series, Sorry about the long wait. Welcome back to CHAPTER SIX (PART SIX 1/2) TRADITIONAL HOTRODDING : ENGINE UPGRADE PRECAUTIONS..............................................................................Even though bench racing is always fun, This is just a very quick reminder that the 4.3 v6 (262 cu inch) is a STREET ENGINE. It was designed for LOW SPEED gruntability. IE, variable urban traffic speeds (stop and go, to highway cruising) with an occasional weekend towing excursion thrown into the mix. The 4300 IS a great engine that is very tough, and can take SOME abuse. But, you should always remember the RPM RANGE this engine likes to work in when upgrading. (Idle to 4500rpm)................................................................................................... Although it doesnt sound glamorious, this rpm range yields the most power/durability. You could probably get away with 5000 rpm...............but, on an OLDER engine I would'nt advise it. Also, I forgot to mention, everytime a hotrod/carcraft mag put a BIGGER cam on an OLDER engine, the car ran great......................FOR AWHILE. :shock: Next magazine AFTER the camshaft install would always start off with , "well, time for a rebuild, folks"............................................................................................................ Sure, Changing cams makes for an out- standing article. But the reality of the matter is, that "bigger" cam created alot more cylinder pressure (more air) than the older engine was used to. It probably hammered the rings as well, eventually causing ALOT of blowby (engine smoke). Time and again, they would always do a "super deluxe" engine build / dyno tune to cover up this very issue. The moral of the story is.........................................................................................if you want MAX power, REBUILD IT first!!! For an older engine, keep the modifications "soft". IE, CAI, complete ignition tuneup, adjust fuel -pressure , rollerTIP rockers, open up the exhaust, etc etc. :blah: Multiple "little upgrades" can give you alittle fun until you can save up to rebuild the engine (or replace it) the way you want. Try to purchase parts that you can "RECYLCE" or reuse on another engine whenever possible. Hopefully, I enlightened as well as entertained you all . PS: To all the Central Port Injection guys................................................................................................................ the next few installments of TRADITIONAL HOTRODDING should definently be of benefit to you. Stay tuned,yall.

For a more doable upgrade versus hotrod magazines approach, here's a fairly stock 4.3 vortec rebuild by westech of california that gained 42 horsepower................. (over a stock 180 horses) with just the addition of a comp cams camshaft kit. (Notice its for a NEW engine.) For some strange reason, the year of the block used, and the head casting numbers were omitted during the entirety of the article. :?: This is a stock vortec 4.3 block bored 0.030 over..................................... This engine build up used stock: 4.3 cast iron vortec heads, crank, rods , oil pan and sump pump. Speedpro anodized coated pistons............................................................................ were used for additional reliability. Supposedly, the anodized portions are to help encourage better cylinder wall lubrication due to the tendancy of the oil "sticking" to the anodization. (Sounds kinda iffy to me. LOOKS cool though.) The star of the show was a comp cams "k-kit"................................... pn 18-119-4 (hi energy flat tappet) Lifters pn 7812-12 Valve springs pn 980-12 Here are the stock 4.3 vortec heads with various nomenclature........................................... In the westech article, it states they will do a future write-up with the computer/ and fuel injection installed to show how older hotrodding can work in tandem with modern hotrodding. The article also mentions it was easier to mount the engine on the dyno using traditional speed vender parts. Could be. I tried doing a search on westech's forum for PART TWO of this article but it was missing. :?: Correct me if I'm wrong, maybe I didnt search long enough for it (two pages). Regardless, I say this in hindsight...........if there WAS a part two, it would have had a link to this forementioned article. My :2: Anywho, heres a pic of the lil monster........................................................................ The block is topped off with an edelbrock performer intake pn 2111 SDemon 625 cfm "road demon" carb (w #65 primary jets / stock secondary jets.) Msd dist. pn 8597 (total timing adv. 34 degrees.) Peak horse power: 222 @ 4,800 RPM Peak torque: 275.2 @ 2,500 RPM (torque did'nt drop below 250 until 4,650 RPM!) Overall horsepower seems a bit mediocre at first, but in juxtaposition to a stock 180 horses........thats a net gain of 42 hp. Pretty good at first blush......................................only beef i have with this dog and pony show is they're using the SAME cheat'n charlie crap as hotrod did! :angry-tappingfoot: Electric waterpump (12-15 horses), LONG tube headers (15 horse) , big honk'n velocity stack (5-10 horse), looks like a digital 6/7 msd unit (probably 5-10 hp) WTF??? Why do these people keep using UNREALISTIC means to achieve psuedo successful ends!?! (You probably figured it out on your own already) To SELL their products! Its a clear cut case of creating demand , then furnishing supply. My bad, peeps for not noticing this*@#%%*! before spending a few hours looking up, and writing this sucker. I was Just looking for some down to earth, USABLE speed merchant parts that would show POSITIVE results. :dunce: Hope you enjoyed this trainwreck of a post. Even though it turned into a smokingpile............ahem ................... Anyway, hang around for my next installment , the holy grail of v6 astro owners. You love them AND you hate them.......................................................................................HEADERS!!!,Nuff said.

G' day ,mates! Thankyou for waiting for the next installment of CHAPTER SIX ( PART SEVEN) TRADITIONAL HOTRODDING: HEADERS!..............................................................
Of course these are'nt for the 4.3 v6, but I thought it would make for an audacious opening at least.
For you hardcore hotrodder types, I'm sure you already know what a pita it is to find ANY headers for a v6 astro.
Edelbrock, sixbangers.com, and yella terra seem to be the only game in town when it comes to our application.
I guess we're too small a niche compared to s-dimes, or blazers.
Heres the only pic I could find of the edelbrock jobbies.................................................................................
.
Pretty lame photo, I know.
Edelbrocks site did'nt even have a pic of them!(????) Most other sites just show a pic of v-8, headers or nothing at all!
Heres a pic of used edelbrock headers from yellla terra..............................................................................................................
.
Almost forgot, heres a boiled down explanation for the usage, and application of headers and WHY they are so cool.
( Even though they get HOT)
One of the most obvious reasons for usage is to lower exhaust back pressure..........
.

Headers achieve this function by providing each exhaust port with its own exit (versious stockers). When constructed, each header pipe is cut/ bent to the SAME LENGTH to guarantee full scavenging of the cylinders.
( Scavenging is where the headers virtually creat a vacuum.)
This in turn allows MORE air/fuel to enter the combustion chamber, thereby making MORE power.

(Note: an exhaust system that cannot rid cylinders of exhaust gas CONTAMINATE the fresh air/fuel charge and robs power.)

HEADER DIAMETER:

.
Small diameter primary header pipes create good LOW, to MID-RANGE TORQUE....but, fall off on the top end.
Large diameter primary header pipes create good HIGH RPM HORSE-POWER......
but, trade off low end torque.

HEADER LENGTH:



Short length for HORSEPOWER.
Long length for TORQUE.

Also, Please accept my appologies for my ignorance in a previous post.
I thought long tube headers were for horsepower, when they REALLY are for torque.
My bad. Learn some thing new everyday,yo.

COLLECTOR:



Short length: less low speed torque.
Long length: more low speed torque.

One case where bigger really IS better.
REJOICE in this little factoid! :banana:

Since astro header pics are harder to find than hen's teeth, heres some "eye-candy!"

Enjoy.......









damn pick up can get tri ys......GRRRR!( Looks sweet though.)







(I still love a cool inline six!)

Another sweet "off topic"...................................................................................




I'd like to do a tri power or a super-charger.....

Heres something from the "prancing horse" mega $$$$$$$$$






$14,ooo headers folks. Yikes! :shock:

Right now I'm running alittle behind, hope to post some more "eye-candy" later on.
Hope you like the pics! Brian

Even though this might seem to be off on a tangent (especially for v6 owners), a brief tutorial on the difference between traditional FOUR TUBE headers versus TRI Y headers should offer some insight on header choices and give a little clarity on why these designs were developed in the first place.

TRI "Y" HEADERS...................................................................................................



These are for a corvette.
(sorry, the site did'nt say WHICH application.)

Tri y headers are visually identifyed by the primaries
(head pipes of a header) being paired in a sequence.
( 4 into 2, 2 into 1 ) OR ( y + y + y )

In general,

tri y's operate on the principle of pairing cylinders. They INCREASE the scavenging effect more than standard headers
( Four tube or four into ones )
by using the exhaust velocity of a neighboring cylinder to speed up the exhaust flow of another.
The high pressure pulses from each pairing of tubes, allow time in relation to the crank firing order (180 degrees dist. rotation)
to SMOOTH out before the next pair would fire.

Fundamentally,

tri y's ORGANIZE the exhaust pulses
(versus a stock manifold that just dumps them all at once),
so that they exit the tail pipe in an orderly fashion.
Which creates exhaust SPEED,
resulting in more power.

I'm really glad I did some searching on this subject!
True serendipity.
I'm digging this info BIG time!
Every header I look at now has MORE meaning than ever before.

Over the years, I never really had any hotrodding buddies to learn this kind of stuff from.
Never had a father in my life to teach me about cars.
I had to learn through books, magazines, or absolute trial and error.
Most of the time
( 85% success rate ),
I'd get the car back together and working as long as it was'nt something TOO labor intensive or needed air tools. :blah:

Any who, back to the header extraganza!!!

Earlier, I breifly mentioned FOUR TUBE headers
(or four into 1's)
and did'nt give a full explanation.
No offense, but Four tubers are the fundamental bread + butter
after-market industry standard.
They're CHEAPER and EASIER to make than tri y's.
Plus, they FIT somewhat better and they make GOOD power.
( Even though its in the UPPER rpms. )

So in conclusion,
Tri y's are great for street, off road, and LOW compression big blocks.
But, they need ALOT of room and are'nt usually cheap.
Their main claim to fame is they WILL make some TORQUE!!!!!
(Usually, 30 ft pds!!!)

Four into ones are highway, race track oriented
and HI COMPRESSION engines REALLY benefit the most from them.
They're typically cheap, and theres PLENTY to chose from.
(For v8 dudes anyway!) :shrug:
Regardless, people love the sight / sound of 'em.
(4 into 1's)
Plus, the fact they usually average around 15 horsepower doesnt hurt any.

Just INSTALLING them does. :mrgreen:

Whelp, time to shift gears.

Heres some more pics for your viewing pleasure...........................................................




Heres another four banging, rice burner pic
( Man, its a PITA trying to find pics of astro headers!) :banghead:


Honda "skunk" header. Nice look'n though.





Simple and sexy.

Heres some for a porsche turbo..............................................................................





viper headers......



$2,300 headers, dude! Cheaper than ferrari's but, WTF!!!! Seems like a RIP OFF to me.

Maybe they re made of GOLD instead of steel. :lol:

Lambo headers handcrafted...................................................................................



Lambo headers custom





Nice.

This concludes this portion of headers,
the next installment will be MORE user friendly.

Header paint/ header wrap.............
fairly cheap DOABLES that work on an aftermarket exhaust
as well as a STOCK exhaust!!!!!!!!!!!

"Dont touch that dial....
we'll be back after these messages."

Ok, more like AFTER I go get something to eat.

MMMMM, arby's roastbeef sand, XTRA horsey sauce, and curly fries.

Here I come...... :animals-dogrun:
Peace out.

G'day, mates!

Welcome back to TRADITIONAL HOTRODDING ,

CHAPTER SIX (PART SEVEN 1/2)

HEADER PAINT/ HEADER WRAP

Now heres something anyone can do to ANY vehicle,
and get positive results everytime.

Although using these products wont be as noticeable
to the "butt-dyno", they will contribute additional
horsepower in a roundabout way.

By insulating the exhaust, ambient power
(or heat) is kept IN the exhaust , which in turn
"speeds up" over all exhaust flow.
Versus having SLOW, hot exhaust gases
that radiate heat and take power away!
Plus, using header paint / wrap will always LOWER
under "hood" temps as well as present a pleasing boy-racer
aesthetic appeal to your engine bay.
Turbo owners can avg. 1000-1500 degrees underhood,
when they use hi temp paint/wrap
they can usually shave off 300-400 degrees!
We dont use turbos, but an engine with a lower temp
engine bay, DOES run better.

For the ultimate exhaust temp protection,
and if you dont mind spending alittle,
you could always have your headers
(or exhaust manifolds)
PROFESSIONALLY coated by jet hot exhaust.

Some people may not like the look of the wrap,
or maybe they dont want the extra work of installing
them, or whatever the case may be...............
this is another doable option.

My :2:

Thermo tec , VHT,and DEI make the best DYI low cost, hi heat
suppression products.
I've used both the h-wrap , and the hi heat paint,
on two cars (86' fiero , 91' astro)
and various two stroke exhaust parts.

Its been about six years for the cars
(two for the bike)
since I applied the thermo tech,
and the stuff keeps working!

The paint by itself is good.
The wrap by itself is good.
When used in tandem ,they are outstanding!

Maximum longevity is acquired by carefull
exhaust prep (cleaning), hi temp spray/bake
spray/bake etc. heat cycles, and once cured
THEN you apply the wrap.
Once the wrap has gone through its "break-in"period,
(translation: smoke fest) :shock:
and run a few heat cycles..........you give it a final
few coats of the hi heat paint.
Mainly, this is to SEAL the wrap and keep moisture,
oil, grease from getting underneath.

Heres some pics.........





For alternate paint choices, they also have copper and black.







One guy, off of 3rd gen.org ,
used a can of "klean strip" aerosol paint stripper
(from autozone)
to remove the MAJORITY of the old paint
that originally came with the headers.
To clean the last bit of EVERYTHING off,
he used some lacquer thinner.
I think he had problems with this kind of paint before,
so he did a pre emptive strike if you will, to make sure
the paint would last, as well as look good.

Note:
vht header PRIMER was also used.

He also had access to the stove AFTER
clearing it with his wife.

His modest operatum was:

bake at 250 degrees, cool for 30 min.

bake at 400 degrees, cool for 30 min.

bake at 500 degrees, cool for 45 min.

(his oven only went to 500 max)

The headers turned out pretty durable,
but the guy wanted them "shiny" so
he did some light wet sanding to them
(using some worn out sandpaper)
and they polished right up!

Heres some pics of the preparation of the wrap
a biker forum had used.....................







Heres some fiero trueleo headers
getting the hook up......







Just Using the header/hi temp paint
on a stock exhaust manifold,
can still DROP the engine doghouse temp
by at least 40-70 degrees!

One other usage for the header wrap and paint
is to use it on your HEATER HOSES.

To save the majority of your wrap/paint for the exhaust,
You can just do the ones that are IN the doghouse only

IE upper rad hose, engine hoses/ coolant pipe
(near passenger side sparkplugs)

It makes sparkplug changes ALOT more tolerable!!!!
(of course I WAIT for the engine to cool,
but the sucker STILL has residual heat.)

One last thing,

for every 10 degrees of EXCESS heat
(over stock ,close loop temp. I presume)
the engine LOSES 1% horsepower.

Forgot where I read it, but its food for thought.

Next installment.......................SUPERCHARGERS!!!!!!!!

(Finally!) :banana:

On the last post,
I had a typo on the last statement.

It should of said.............

" For every 10 degrees of EXCESS heat
(over stock, close loop temp,I presume)
the engine LOSE 10% horsepower."

Not 1%.

My bad. peeps.

Sorry for the long hiatus,

no excuses, but lately johnny five oh has been giving me hell
over some small fry stuff NOT even related to driving!
(Or illegial activity, thank you much.)
In a nutshell, just impound horsepucky nonsense that keeps
sucking up my benjies.
"To serve and protect". Yeah right, my --- .
:law-policered:

Rant concluded, on wit da show.......

TRADITIONAL HOTRODDING,

CHAPTER SIX (PART EIGHT)

SUPERCHARGERS............

Since it is VERY costly to "soup up" a 4.3
using normally asspirted methods,
the BEST, pound for pound, horsepower adder
would be using a supercharger.

Unfortunately, the aftermarket knows this TOO well.
The laundry list of whos who.........................
IE: vortec, paxton, whipple, powerdyne etc. etc.
all require an arm,a leg, AND your first born child to
purchase them.
Not to mention, most of the supercharger kits
dictate that you have to tap into your oil pan
just to install an oil line to lube the s-charger.

NOT GOOD.

You could probablly get an oilfilter adapter instead
but, this set up WILL eventually heat up your blower,(shorting its lifespan)
and your incoming ,boosted airflow.
(inviting detonation.)

Once the blower (supercharger) is heated up during driving,
once you shut the engine off say hello to mr. heat soak.
Which, over time, causes "coking".
(A type of sludge formation.)
Dirty engine oil would also compound this scenario, thusly causing
premature blower failure.
I think this lubrication fiasco is INTENTIONAL and is a form of planned obselcense!
( Works for a set amount of time.)
If you send it back, they'll probably say you installed it wrong,
OR you did'nt perform proper oil maintence. Nice.

Even though there are blowers that come self contained with their own oil supply,
they are still expensive! $$$$

There is a manufacturer that doesnt use the engines oil for lubrication,
has a really great price, great power (65-75 horse), has hi heat coating
option available and its made in the usa!

WYNJAMMER SUPERCHARGERS



Whole kit is $2,537.00

Main benefits:

1. External cog drive is boost changeable!
2. Doesnt use oil lines, or coolers
3. LIGHTWEIGHT, aluminum/billet (10-12lbs!!!)
4. cog drive can be changed in minutes, NOT hours.
5.Has 3 ceramic bearings for maintenence free operation
6. All wynjammers are made in an aerospace machine shop
7. 2 YEAR WARRENTY!
8. Again, made in the USA (LOVE that part).

close up view of blower unit.....



They also have a 4.3 tbi kit available for $1,945.00!!!

Heres another pic.....



Heres the tbil bonnet with BOV (blow off valve) installed.....





pic of the BOV.......



Main foreseeable problem is vehicle application.
Although the wynjammer is taylored for the gm 4.3 v6, its usually for s 10's
and full sized trucks.
The brackets look pretty huge.
Maybe if asked, wynjammer could make a smaller bracket for you.
OR, you could have one fabbed up by a local machine shop.

One idea would be to call for all the dimensions
of all the brackets and the s-charger,and make a cardboard template.
Take the template,
and measure out how much room you have to work with in your engine bay.

By using this method, you can see if the whole project is doable BEFORE buying.

Regardless, if you do manage to fanangle the blower in there,
its still gonna be easier versus doing a v8 swap.
You get MORE power (65-70hp) with LESS weight.
Plus, you get the cool whine of the blower to boot. :thumbup:

Still not good at links yet, but check out WYNJAMMER.com

Very informative site, with alot of other gm applications.
There phone number is (602) 971-5554 9am-5pm ARIZONA TIME.

Tim the tool man approved........ :layrubber:

"More power, more power!!! grunt.grunt,grunt"

Another foreseeable prerequisite for installing the wynjammer,

would be removal of the stock mech. fan and shroud.
This would then require the installation of a electrical fan.
Pure serendipity!
You GAIN 12-17 horsepower by removing it anyway!
Yyou sort of get more room, and e fans are fairly cheap at the salvage yard!

Win win.

There is room if you LOOK for it, and if you get rid of some factory crap.

When I took a look at my van today, I noticed a bunch of room
available on the passengers side engine bay, lower left below
a pulley.

Get rid of the factory air duct, or replace it with some dryer vent
or shop vac hose and bingo.........more room.

I already removed that junk already, but it does free up space.

If you get rid of the abs controller "box" on the drivers side,
then add some brake lines to replace the box, you have plenty of room!!!

Thats another project I'd like to do anyway, more room for sparkplug changes!
Plus, that thing is dead weight!

(gm abs sucks anyway) :2:

Not to rain on the parade,

but usually its a good idea to install forged pistons
whenever you boost an engine to promote longevity.

An OLDER engine may not last as long as well.

But, according to the majority of internet feedback,
6 psi on stock 4.3 internals doesnt seem to hurt it. :dance:

One more bit of good news, engines with RESTRICTIVE intakes
really like supercharging!
It seems all the intake obstructions help "speed up" the pressurization.

Here are some PREREQUISITES for adding a blower or SC ( supercharger):

1. Computer: wyjammer supplies the custom chip or pcm tune.

2. Ignition: MSD multispark is mandatory for reliable performance.
(boost tends to make it harder for sparkplugs to fire)
Hotter coil, better ignition wires, and sparkplugs set .035-.040.
Retard base timing in increments, otherwise detonation WILL occur!
(MSD does have an adjustable dial control box available.)

3. Fuelpump: replace with HIGH volume pump.
(Less chance of lean out).
Use premium gas!!!!!!! No cheap stuff!

4. Low temp thermo stat: 180-190 degree stat. (160 degree gives
better perf. but less mpg due to open loop.)

5. 2 or 3 bar map sensor: wynjammer didnt state this,
but blown engines usually need this upgrade.

6. Ditch the mech. fan: Already mentioned. 'Nuff said.

7. Relief valve: Comes with the kit, very nice.

8. Boost gauge: Monitor for perf. consistency, or for any potential problems.

9. Motor/trans mounts: Change to poly. More power, more stress.

10. Freeflowing exhaust: Actually, this should have been done already
if your serious about hotrodding a 4.3 v6!!!
(Just a friendly reminder,mates.) :lol:

Again,

havent seen any negative feedback on the wynjammer.
Everybody that purchased one was pleased with it.

The wynjammer has been noted to run VERY cool
thanks to its ceramic ballbearing internals.
No HOT engine oil!
ZERO maintenance.
Only weighs 10-12lbs.
Plus, the wynj. only used 6 horsepower to run it!

Sweet.

Man, if only I had enough benjies......... :crying:

Next installment,

Even though they make ALOT of heat but everybody loves the name....

TURBOCHARGING! :auto-iroc: Vroom vroom

Forgot to add some pix I found while cleaning up the 'puter.

My bad.

Heres some eye candy of an old school roots blower.........




Heres a pic I missed of a wynjammer CPI kit.......



Hotrod magazines 500 horsepower blown 4.3.......



Again, my apologies for the screw up.

RANT alert!

Thanks to an infusion of $$$,
and NO thanks to "communist cast"......
(comcast)
my Internet is working again.

Bait and switch Rat b******s!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bscene-birdiedoublered:

Rant concluded.

:text-offtopic:

Welcome to.......

TRADITIONAL HOTRODDING,

CHAPTER SIX (PART NINE)

TURBOCHARGERING.........



Although a turbo astro is tantamount to urban legend,
it can be done but it would'nt be for the faint of heart.

Turbos were the darling of the 1980's.........UNTIL
people found out the woes of turbo lag, turbo-coking,
detonation,
(from using cheap gas instead of premium)
cost of maintenance,
(underhood parts wore out faster due to excess heat)
and the joys of excessive engine blow by.
(oil leaks, gasket leaks, dipsticks popping off etc.) :shock:

Thanks to the advancement of time, technology,and
the aftermarket....most of these problems can be solved.
:thumbup:

Just doing a quick search, I found a manufacturer.

Squire turbo systems (STS)

That has a Universal SINGLE TurboSystem FOR $1695.00!!!

But, thats not the ONLY point of interest here,
brothers and sisters.

The real neato, golly gee whiz,part of the equation
is this kit is a REMOTE located turbocharger!
The turbo is mounted in the REAR of the vehicle
which would significantly cut the amount of heat-
soak/ power loss found in a convential turbo install.
Less heat, less chance of detonation. :mrgreen:

Heres some pics.............
Single turbo kit



Turbocharger (application specific)
Wastegate, 38mm
Turbo Flange Kit
Wiring Harness
Pressure Switch
Bolt Kit
Hose Kit
Brass Kit
Oil Pump
Oil Check Valve
Air Filter
Dry-Charger
Instruction Manual

Optional Upgrades:
Blow-Off Valve Kit - $300
PCV Kit - $150
Raw Pipe, Clamps, & Silicone Kit - $350 - $450
Snorkle Kit - $75 - $100
Specific turbo applications - Call for pricing

Universal TWIN TurboSystem

STARTING AT $2,745.00



2 Turbochargers (application specific)
2 Wastegates, 38mm
Wiring Harness
2 Air Filters
2 Dry-chargers
Turbo Flange Kit
Bolt Kit
Brass Kit
Hose Kit
2 Oil Pumps
2 Oil Check Valves
2 Pressure Switches
Instruction Manual

Optional Upgrades:
Blow-Off Valve Kit - $300
PCV Kit - $150
Raw Pipe, Clamps, & Silicone Kit - $550
Twin Snorkle Kit - $100 - $120
Specific turbo applications - Call for pricing

(turbochargers which are included with Universal Kits will be sized specifically for your application and horsepower goals.)

Heres another quote from there site:

"We have a great solution for YOUR application! Whether you have a Daily Driver Car or Truck, Street Rod, Hot Rod, Muscle Car, Race Car, Drift Car, Show Car, RV, Motorcycle or any other type of vehicle - the STS Universal Turbo System is the answer you've been looking for to turbocharge your ride!

Our Universal Systems have been successfully installed on thousands of satisfied customers' vehicles over the years.

Installing a turbocharger on any vehicle has never been easier, due to our patented technology. Being able to put the turbocharger anywhere that you can find room for it, rather than having to make room for it under the hood, has opened up the possibility of turbocharging many vehicles that before now would have been a nightmare of fabrication and modifications.

Simply take your vehicle to one of our many STS Power Dealers, or if you are a fabricator capable of plumbing up intake and exhaust tubing, or you have a favorite exhaust shop that can help you run the tubing, and you will have a turbocharged vehicle.

As for cost, the combination of the lower Universal System price (starting at only $1,695.00) and the higher Universal install price is normally quite comparable to the total price of one of our bolt-on systems plus normal installation.

Many of the fastest STS vehicles in the country utilize the STS Universal Kit.

Please keep in mind that even though STS cannot be responsible for the tuning option that a Universal System customer chooses for their vehicle, STS Turbo will strive to help as much as we can with tech questions or other advice. If you choose to work with a STS Power Dealer for the install, they will be another point of contact for tuning support and can discuss all of your tuning options with you.

Whether you are looking for some stealth power by hiding the turbo under the back of the car, scoring extra points at the car shows with a truly unique remote-mounted turbo, getting more power per pound of boost with the coolest intake charges in the industry, or you just can't find a bolt on turbo system for your application - now you can enjoy the awesome power and incredible sound that only an STS Turbo can provide.

So the end result is that you will enjoy all the benefits of our patented remote-mounted turbo system just as much as our customers that have our bolt-on systems"

Squires Turbo Systems 165 North 1330 West Orem, UT 84057 USA

801-224-3477 [email protected]