[stal023]

I installed the new sensor with a liberal amount of copper goo, then fought to get the electrical connection together and tight, get the locking tab reinstalled and push the connector onto the bracket. It's much easier to do that from above by removing the doghouse, but I didn't feel like pulling the doghouse two weekends in a row. So instead I cut up my hands on the heat shield and fought it for 15 minutes, but I got it done.

Having said that, make sure the wiring to that sensor is good and not pinched, cut, grounded....something.

Never heard of copper goo, can I get that at the auto parts store? I am guessing just buy the O2 wrench to make my life easier? Purchased at the auto parts store as well? How can you check the wires...seems like the only way is to take the doghouse off and I'd rather avoid that if possible.

 

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Good to know, thanks. I will go out and buy the stuff today and replace it tomorrow.

 

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Okay I bought NTK 21049 and installed. Vehicle is still showing same code. I've attached a screenshot of what the OBD was showing when I cranked it up. Also when I compared the old to the new, I noticed the new "shaft" was slightly smaller than the old (added photo of what I'm talking about) but this part says it is for my van, upstream right. Now what?

 

[stal023]

The two passenger side o2 sensors in the front there stink. The one most forward, if I remember correctly, is the worst. I'd take the doghouse off because getting the sensor unclipped and reclipped will honestly take less time (including taking the doghouse on and off), than trying to make it work without removing the doghouse....at least for me.
Also, an o2 sensor socket is necessary for that one, I had to borrow a neighbor's and still fought it for like an hour.

 

[stal023]

The two passenger side o2 sensors in the front there stink. The one most forward, if I remember correctly, is the worst. I'd take the doghouse off because getting the sensor unclipped and reclipped will honestly take less time (including taking the doghouse on and off), than trying to make it work without removing the doghouse....at least for me.
Also, an o2 sensor socket is necessary for that one, I had to borrow a neighbor's and still fought it for like an hour.

I was able to wrangle it from below (harness was the hardest part!) And getting the old one off with a socket was actually surprisingly easy.

 

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I did not clear it. So drive it for a hundred miles and see what happens?

 

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Oh okay that's detailed. Alright so once done with all steps should I expect check engine light to shut off?

 

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Check engine light is still on but it's reading closed now. Good to go right?

 

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It's in closed loop. Is the code stored, active or pending?

Ahh, I have no idea. Just using Torque Lite and only know the basics of it. If you can lead me in the right direction I can check?

 

[stal023]

Okay new issues;
I drove probably 500 miles with no issues. Stopped at a gas station, filled up and turned the van on and check engine light came on. Here are the screenshots. 0155 is the one I just replaced.

Frustrated no doubt. Suggestions?

 

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Also there are a lot of mechanics I know of that suggest when one of the sensors fails, the others are likely starting to get "slow and lazy" so many of these mechanics will change all three at the same time. I don't recall how many "drive cycles" must be completed without an error to clear the P0155 but some of the codes require multiple "drive cycles" to clear. Others will clear on one completion of the self diagnostic. (like the P0457, fuel evap leak, most often a loose gas cap).

I did the drive cycle and the code cleared on its own and then I drove at least 500 miles and these two codes were given. Could the sensor I just bought be crap? What is the other code about? And why is the fuel reading only 1 O2 sensor?

 

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Oh duh, P0140 is another O2 sensor so that makes sense it is saying only 1 is working but then why is it saying it is a closed-loop?

 

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140 is saying Bank 1, sensor 2 but I don't see this even indicated on an astro. I see Bank 1, Sensor 1 as upstream driver, Bank 2 sensor 1 as upstream passenger (what I already changed) and then the downstream as bank 2, sensor 2. What gives?

 

[stal023]

Leeann_93, thoughts?

 

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I just called the auto parts store and I can return that O2 sensor I just put in, (NTK), they would need to order a new one. AC Delco is $119 for this and the rear. Do I clear the code and see what happens? Do I replace the upstream passenger and the rear? Do I fork over a ton more money and get the AC Delco? Trying to get out of town this weekend. Thanks everyone.

 

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Where does one begin to troubleshoot it?

 

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Thanks for the advice everyone.

I cleared the codes, then I installed a new air filter and cleaned the MAF. I did NOT do a drive cycle and rather took off for my weekend trip and decided to keep an eye on it since my gas mileage was not dropping.

The check engine light did come back on but just threw a P0141 code which my understanding is the downstream O2 sensor that could be caused from: faulty O2 sensor, faulty wiring/connection, engine coolant sensor not working properly, or faulty PCM.

I always like to do the cheaper fixes first if I don't know what is going on. Since this error wasn't being thrown until AFTER replacing the upstream O2 sensor, it doesn't make sense to me that the wiring/connection is bad.

This could be completely unrelated but my coolant needs to be changed. Could this help this issue?

What is my next troubleshooting step?

Also, I just read this: "O2 sensor failures can be caused by various contaminants that enter the exhaust. These include silicates from internal engine coolant leaks (due to a leaky head gasket or a crack in a cylinder wall or combustion chamber) and phosphorus from excessive oil consumption (due to worn rings or valve guides). Replacing a fouled O2 sensor may temporarily solve the problem, but sooner or later the new sensor also will fail if the underlying problem that is allowing the contamination to occur is not corrected."

Should I be concerned about a larger issue?

 

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how old are all the sensors? Were they all original?

Part of the reason there is no "interval" for replacement of O2 sensors is they are expected to have a 100,000 to 150,000 mi life. Average life expectancy of 96 and later vehicles in the US was probably in the 75k mi range. (5-7 years). but as our vehicles are now often in the 150k-200k mi range and above, the O2 sensors are probably all starting to get "old and lazy"

I suspect they are original although two of the sensors did not have the security pin in them. The upstream passenger did have the pin in. While this is an 04, I have roughly 120K miles on it.

I will order an O2 sensor for the rear. I want to order online since it is much cheaper than going to an auto parts store. I'd like to get AC Delco. (https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-2830 ... olet+Astro)

Site says it fits my vehicle but will this work for the downstream? My understanding according to the auto parts store, the upstream and downstream are the same part number? How do I verify the correct part #?

 

[stal023]

Or this? https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-2831 ... olet+Astro