[Rich G.]

After living with this issue for several years I decided it was time I fully tackle it. I'm happy to report that I haven't seen my ABS & Brake light on in over a week so I'm going to declare SUCCESS!! The lights had been coming on consistently for about 6 months.

Here are some things I learned along the way and a few pleasant surprises I discovered:
If the screws are stripped, it is NO easy task to remove them. They are just so hard to get to. Two came out within the first two hours into the project. The remaining two took me an additional 10 hours to remove... yes, 10. I was able to slot one of them using a Dremel with a flexible shaft and a tiny ball bit. I then used a flat head screw bit to get leverage and break the screw free. The other one (the one wedged in the corner next to the two connectors) required full removal of the head. I didn't have the best grinding wheels/bits for my Dremel to get into that tight corner so this made the job rather difficult. Once the screws were completely free, the ABS unit came off easily. I was worried that the brake line going directly over top of the ABS unit wouldn't allow enough room to lift the module off, but there was plenty of room. I was also worried that the screw that I removed the head of would be frozen in the block, but it also came out easily by hand.

Separating the lid of the module wasn't too difficult. Just take your time when scoring the seal with a razor. I was happy to see the circuit board sat a little higher than the seal, therefore when going around with the razor there's no danger of cutting into components mounted on top of the circuit board. None of the pics I saw online showed this gap. You do still have to be careful as there are some connections that go though the board and there is a chance of damaging those if one isn't careful when opening the seal.

After the lid is removed, the next big job is to remove the old seal from the lid and the module. Cleaning up the lid isn't bad. The module has a channel around the perimeter for the sealant. None of the pics I saw online showed this channel. Use a little jeweler's flat head screw driver to scrape out the old seal from the channel. The channel acts as a nice guide when laying down a bead of sealant when it's time to reassemble.

The soldering is the easiest part of the job. I could see the power connection solder joints were roughed up indicating they had gone bad. I touched those up as well as every single through-hole solder connection. I'd rather do it now than have to pull it apart again.

After I did the soldering and before I sealed it up I installed it temporarily to test it. It only takes about 5 minutes to pop it back in to test. Once everything came back on (no Brake/ABS light after starting it up), I sealed it back up. I used the black gasket seal. I ran a bead along the cleared channel then put the lid on. Many things I read said to let it get tacky and to put sealant on both the module and the lid. The directions say just the opposite- apply only to one side and put both pieces together right away while it was still wet. I followed the directions. There are little nub spacers molded into the plastic to prevent the lid from closing too tightly and squeezing out the gasket seal.

I got 4 new Grade 8 allen head screws from Home Depot (Less than $2 for 6). I wasn't about to use those old screws. Prior to installing them, I coated the new screws with NoOxId. This is typically used on electrical connections, but acts as a great rust preventative in general. After I snugged up the screws I coated the top of each screw with NoOxId.

DONE!!
And no more ABS/Brake light!!


now, for the pleasant surprises:
For quite some time now I had been noticing the van felt rough in sharp turns. This was especially noticeable in parking lots and after I had been driving for a while. I read about the issue and everything I read said to change my transfer case fluid. I changed the fluid a couple times. It seem to help a little bit, but the issue would come right back. I'm happy to report that since fixing the ABS module the van no longer grips/hops/shakes during tight turns! I did not know that fixing the ABS module would fix this issue. From what I can gather, I believe that when the ABS module fails, it defaults to 4WD mode and the front wheels were gripping during tight turns when in 4WD mode.

Last year the van didn't pass inspection because it needed new brakes. When I took the brakes apart I was surprised that the front brakes looked relatively new while the back ones were completely worn. After I fixed the ABS module I noticed my stopping power had increased significantly. I started looking for info on this and read somewhere that when the ABS module fails the computer defaults to putting more more braking effort on the rear wheels than the front ones.

So- Even though my van seemed to work fine and I drove around for years with this issue I now wish I had taken care of this years ago. I had no idea that fixing the ABS module would also take care of other issues.

... and a HUGE thanks to all the contributors of this thread!!! I couldn't have done it without you!

 

[esc]

I've read through most (not quite all, it is long) of this thread and the only question I have, is that some mentioned having an EBCM that this fix does not work on.
Which vans (years, models,?) have the different ABS unit?

I'm looking at buying my first Astro van (2003) tomorrow and it has both the ABS and Brake lights on. The seller doesn't know anything about the vans history.

 

[Stroverlander]

Pretty sure all the GenII vans have the Kelsey Hayes KH325 EBCM so you would be fine with the '03 and that ABS module.

 

[esc]

I had the codes read today and the apparently incompetent guy at the parts store told me the code was 026s. I even had him write it down (he disconnected the code reader before I could look at it myself). He plainly wrote 026"S". Since that is not a real code, I'll assume that he misread 0265.

If all Gen II's have this type of EBCM, I guess I need to do some soldering.

I'll report back after I finish the job.

 

[Thegrandwazoo]

Pretty cool...

 

[97cargocrawler]

... I guess I need to do some soldering.

I'll report back after I finish the job.

Loooooongest soldering job ever. Must be one BIG blob.

 

[TurnNburn]

I have don't this on a couple of vans and s10's with success. But I did it on my van and it didn't work. Still get the lights on almost every time I drive.

 

[dennis7815]

I have made this video to put this to REST once and for all - the astro van ABS/BRAKE light issues.

HERE IS THE REAL FIX - someone in charge please make this a 'sticky'

**WATCH VIDEO BELOW**

" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

**WATCH VIDEO ABOVE**

This is the REAL FIX for ANY Chevy Kelsey Hayes 325 EBCM module - common on Astro Van, S10, Corvette, etc. There is NO NEED to 'mail it in for repair' to the online 'companies' out there. YOU can do it YOURSELF in about 10 minutes on your kitchen table with a simple 25 watt soldering iron and some flux.

The fix WORKS - I have done it MULTIPLE TIMES. All the 'repair companies' do is RE-SOLDER the broken joints typically around the relay (code co256) - NO "NEW RELAY" IS PUT IN. The RELAY is NOT the problem! Its simply old solder.

Do it your self and save $100-$1,700

Cost for repair if you have a soldering iron laying around is $0

Typical symptoms:

BRAKE and ABS light come on 'intermittently' seemingly when 'going over a bump', doesn't happen all the time, code co265 may show WITH an ABS code-reader

Comment with questions.

--Rolling Rock

I agree with quote if you have a Kelsey Hayes 325 ABS. The car rebuild and repair shows say other vehicles that use Kelsey Hayes ABS suffer from the same problems of failed circuit boards as the soldering fails over time. Electronic circuit boards exposed to vibration and humidity will fail unless they are sealed really well during manufacture processes. Such boards are often impossible to repair because they are so well sealed. I worked on military grade electronics for over 42 years. I think Kelsey Hayes expected people to shell out big bucks to keep the ABS working. At this point I would be happy if anyone could repair the Kelsey Hayes 4WAL ABS used on my 1994 astro van. I have bought a few junk yard ABS units only to have them fail in a few hours. When the ABS board fails if fails with motor running, the motor will be burned out. Finding a new ABS motor is not easy. You can try buying several used ABS units from junk yards and solder and swap boards until you get one working for your van. If you learn how, please post your findings so others can learn from each others abs repair efforts since the shops are so expensive for rebuilts.

 

[01safari]

So I finally got around to looking at my ABS/C0265 issue.

Here is my experience...

As it turns out, a coworker has replaced several ECBM modules on S-10 blazers with junkyard units. He still had the old units, complete with pumps laying in his garage. He offered them to me with the condition that they never return to his garage. What a deal! He said the S-10 swaps aren't too bad since they are located under the hood. I thought that it would be good to take one apart and solder it up just for practice. I used a butane soldering iron, heated up the existing solder until it was liquid on each joint of the relay. it was so easy, that I did both of them.

When it came time to do the actual work on the van, I figured that it would be faster to just swap out a repaired unit. I ruined the head of the first screw that I tried to remove. I got a good bite on the second one. wiggled it back and forth slowly, but it broke off anyway. I took my time and removed the complete unit without breaking any lines. On the workbench I was able to remove the 4 torx screws. I assembled the module and pump before installing it back on the van. Now I had to bleed the brakes.

I pulled the wheels to bleed the brakes. Just for the heck of it, I pulled the drums to take a look. I found a chunk of lining had come off. Before running to the parts store, I checked the fronts as well. broke a bleeder on a caliper. Complete 4 wheel brake job followed. I bled the brakes and it had a good pedal. I wasn't sure if I had to bleed the ABS as well, so I looked up the procedure. It never mentioned it. However, the last item says when replacing an ECBM with a new one, calibrate it with a scan tool with the proper tire size. Not sure what tire size blazers use. Borrowed a scan tool and calibrated the tire size (Blazer used a 235/75R15).

In retrospect, I guess I could have just re-soldered my original ECBM and skipped the calibration step.

The ABS and BRAKE lights have been off for 2 days now! :banana:

Oh, and while I was on the Alldata site, book time for ECBM replace is .5 hours (.3 warranty).

 

[fulken]

What is the best way to remove ABS module from 2003 Safari?

I have 2003 Safari, and It seems like non of the torx screw head fit/match to the screw. I used a visegrip that did not work.

Dremel tool under the van seems like a torture time.

Removing brake lines, remove the unit, and work on the rest on the table seems logical, but removing brake lines seems another headache... Is there any easier way?

Thank you!!

 

[TurnNburn]

Drop the sub frame. Preferably with a 3 inch body lift. That should give you all of the space you need.

 

[1lowcab]

Drop the sub frame. Preferably with a 3 inch body lift. That should give you all of the space you need

^^^ That!

I was just under mine and can't believe the room there is around the abs module with the 3" pucks.

You could just take those 3 bolts out on that side and jack up the body....carefully.

 

[Spdcrazy]

Hey all. Thanks for the add. I have an 03 Astro with and abs light on. I've tried to read what's going on with my matco fancy scanner. But it keeps saying communication error with abs. Could this be related with the issue in this thread? Or what might I be missing?

 

[1lowcab]

Yup, thats what mine said before I re soldered it. Re-flow that board and it'll be good.

 

[Spdcrazy]

Wonderful. Next project I suppose.

 

[fulken]

I was just under mine and can't believe the room there is around the abs module with the 3" pucks.

You could just take those 3 bolts out on that side and jack up the body....carefully.

It looks like dropping sub-frame with entire front suspension and engine together. All wires and hoses get yoga time.

It is almost easier to cut a hole under the floor to get the unit!!

 

[TurnNburn]

It looks like dropping sub-frame with entire front suspension and engine together. All wires and hoses get yoga time.

It is almost easier to cut a hole under the floor to get the unit!!

That's the gist of it. Everything will stretch( our vans are permanently lifted like this). If you go about doing this, unbolt your e brake cable bracket (in the middle of the sub frame) to allow everything to move. Also, the fan shroud needs to come off.

If you need some advice or some pictures, fallow this thread for a lot of what you are doing
viewtopic.php?f=40&t=109802

And sure, waaaay easier cutting a 6 inch hole into your floor right where your left foot rests.

 

[Spdcrazy]

Wow! So happy I found this. Removed the module, soldered the pins and Bam. No abs light no codes. Running like a top. Thank you so much everyone!

 

[1lowcab]

easy peasy lemon squeezy

 

[chevymaher]

easy peasy lemon squeezy

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: you owe me a keyboard now.