Yeah, that's really creative. You can do that with the rocker panels. Just make sure you cut out ALL of the rusted metal and treat the rest of it (POV-15) before you start with the foam. Luckily you have the running boards so that will help protect the fiberglass from all types of road debris.

 

Just a slight correction - that's POR-15 (it works great).

 

Tell ya what.Check the rear frame area around where the rear shocks mount to it.If you find that rusted out or cracked,might want to consider another van.Let us know what you find.

 

Hi fede
Thanks for the links, that guy sure knows how to fabricate, great job. I think the running boards on your van were the main cause of the rust. They have a tendency to trap moisture in between the gaps and have no way to dry out properly.

As others have stated, I would really check the whole under carriage out to see if it's really going to be worth fixing it. If it's just the panels you posted that have that much rust on them, then you should be able to fix it without to much problems. Follow the advice of others that commented and please keep us updated, Thanks.

 

It's been done before. My F150 was full of it when I got it, it had even more when i got rid of it.
:chevy:

 

Thanks for the replies, i have checked the undercarriage and its in really good condition ill take a couple pictures when i get a chance, basically the only rusted area only my van is the rockers. I ordered the POR-15 kit that comes with a cleaner and prep today.

 

Thanks for the replies, i have checked the undercarriage and its in really good condition ill take a couple pictures when i get a chance, basically the only rusted area only my van is the rockers. I ordered the POR-15 kit that comes with a cleaner and prep today.

Is that the starter kit? If it is, it is not enough. Its never enough. If you can add to that order, I would suggest adding at least a quart of the POR-15 (thanks leeann).

 

Hi, Ive done poor man body repair before. I did not use foam beacaus it will retain moisture and cause the repair to fail in short order. I used chrome tape ( it is like duct tape supper sticky and fairly stiff ).

1 - Grind arear to be repaired to bare metal
2 - remove as much rust and debris as possible behind/inside hole.
3 - treat inside of vehicle rust spot with some sort of rust paint (POR15)
4 - form chrome tape to cover hole
5 - use long and strong (kitty hair) fiber glass for first coat
6 - finish up with regular body filler
7 - paint inside of repair with more rust paint to keep water out.
8- people wont know it's not metal inside or out with out a magnet.

I've also used metal and rivets in the same fashion. both methods last for years and years if water can be keeped out of repair